When you say to countersink it, what specifically do you mean? There's not a lot of clearance in the cabinet, I'm not sure if I could move the rail to the right.

One thing I've noticed is that the ball seems to sit off-center in the shooter lane.

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As a first time pin owner, I've never looked that closely at the shooter lane before on any game, so I don't know how normal this is. It almost looks like some of the wood on the right side of the switch was broken off or just worn down over the years. If I manually push the ball to the left a bit, it stays in place and seems to shoot better from that location. I was wondering if it made any sense to shave the left side down a hair to get the ball to sit centered?

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Also, after reading a bit more, I'm thinking I should probably do an overall 'restore' on the shooter lane no matter what else I end up doing. Sand it down a bit, spray some new clear coat on it, thoughts?

This might be a little off the wall, but the ball should center on the slot in the shooter lane. Is your game level side to side at the front? Is your playfield sitting square and evenly spaced side to side in the cabinet? Leveling the cabinet will have an effect on the alignment of the shooter rod.

Yeah, it's leveled, I got it evened out with the new legs. The rest of the parts I had on order came in today, so I put a new sleeve and spring on the shooter, and the ball makes it up the ramp every time now. I think I'm good

I think at this point all I have left is to disassemble the ramp and diverter mechanisms to clean and adjust and I'll be golden. I'll probably still sand and coat the shooter lane at some point, but I'm not going to worry about doing anything too drastic since getting the ball up the ramp from the shooter is working reliably now.

Man, how clunky this game was before I started working on it and how it plays now, the difference is like night and day! Thanks to everyone for the direct advice and all the messages that were posted three years ago that helped out!

You weren't kidding! I used a toothpick to add just a dab to each end of the metal rods on the spinners and holy crap they spin way faster now. The sound effects go crazy and I get a lot more points each time I hit them

I always remove the long pine wood rail and remove the wood material
so as to make the metal guide rail fit farther onto the wood. I see
from your picture that the ball has chewed up the left side of the
shooter lane trough. Ouch! The main idea is to have the ball have
only one point of contact; the playfield. Physics and ball drag are
always a problem with early/mid-1980s solid state complex
playfield designs.

That makes more sense... I was trying to figure out how countersinking the screws on the bottom would help :p

Hi guys. I'm hoping someone can help or point me in the right direction for help. My left, right and kickback coils are not firing. They click in test mode but otherwise don't work in gameplay. Is this likely a CPU issue or possibly a switch thing? I'm a new pin owner and am learning as I go. I have a DMM and can solder. Studying the schematics I don't see the kickback in relation to the left and right. Any help is greatly appreciated

These coils have relays that turn them on, you are hearing them click so they must not have power. There is a single fuse holder in the back box for these coils, check it for continuity.

The fuse was blown. Picking some up today. Hopefully that's all it needs. Curious why it blew though. Thanks

So the fuse fixed that issue but as I was play testing I found my top pop bumper when hit activates the tilt?! I recently rebuilt the bumpers and I thought they were working fine. Now I'm really confused. What might cause this? I didn't unsolder anything on the switch but I did on the coil.

Try a new diode on the pop switch and see if that helps.

anyone have a good scan of the helicopter plastics?

Does anyone here have a spare sound board?

Does anyone here have a spare set of the 4 game + sound roms found on the mpu board?

Added over 7 years ago: Edit...sound board purchased from Nabours Novelty.

Ok, so I had the playfield out to work on the ramp diverter and relocate the stoplight, and it's good news, bad news. I figured out why the diverter kept sticking, a C-clamp had come off and was letting the bat slide further up than it should, which was causing it to get caught on the ramp. The stoplight looks great in the back left of the cabinet, and I don't have to worry about an airball knocking the case off any longer.
Unfortunately, now I've got a bunch of stuff that won't respond. The wiring didn't get kinked or squashed during the process, I was very careful about that. GI and flippers work in diagnostic modes, but a few switches seem to be affected, since the ball trough doesn't register (this causes the game to fire all coils to try and dislodge the ball, but the saucer is the only one that actually goes). I did run through the edge and switch tests, but IIRC, almost all of them worked. None of the coils/flashers affected share a transistor, am I right to be looking at the big plastic playfield connectors first? Until now, I had never disconnected any of them, and I'm wondering if they're not making good contact. I've tried reseating all connectors in the backbox and to the playfield to no avail. Everything was working great before this, and I feel like once I get this issue sorted and clean up the shooter lane, it'll be ready to bring in the house from the garage.
Thanks to the test mode, here's the list of what's not firing with their part numbers and corresponding transistor:
Outhole 1P11-1 8P3-1 Q33
Ball Release 1P11-3 8P3-2 Q25
Flasher 1 1P11-9 8P3-9 Q17
Flasher 2 1P11-6 8P3-5 Q31
Flasher 3 1P11-7 8P3-6 Q23
Left Hideout 1P11-8 8P3-7 Q30
Right Hideout 1P11-9 8P3-8 Q22
Ramp Gates 1P12-6 8P3-13 Q15
Kickback 1P12-7 8P3-14 Q7
Right kicker 1P19-4 8P3-18 Q71
Also, @hs1stpin, hit me up in the PMs, I was out of town for a few weeks and missed your message! :p

Added over 7 years ago: You know what, this probably should have been in its own thread, sorry for cluttering up the club thread. If someone with the ability wanted to remove the post that would be fine since I've started a new thread in the tech section. HS1STPIN should still hit me up though :p

Ok guys. Need some help. Just picked up a High Speed project. Needs an MPU board. Which one do I get for HS? There are many variants of system 11 boards.

Thanks.

It is just System 11 with no suffix. Road Kings and Grand Lizard have the same board.

Is the board missing? Repairing them can sometimes be cheaper than buying a new board, assuming you could find one.

Not missing.

But issues!

IMG_1072 (resized).JPG

In the words of Quiznos: Mmm, toasty.

It may be salvageable, I don't know. There are some guys that do board repair on here, you may want to check with them first.

A good board guy can rebuild those traces with a little time

cool - I emailed some more photos to John Wort for a quote.

Worth fixing the original. Acid damage can be a worse repair than what you have there.

Does anyone here have a set of used plastics? I am missing the one above the lower left stand up targets and the one.above the middle stand up targets, straight up from the flippers.

I grabbed this picture and the ones I need are the green one with Drive 55 and Stay Alive and the other green one in the upper right of the picture.

I could also use a good ramp from anyone who bought a new one as well as one decent or better jet bumper cap.

Anything left over from a restore would be perfect.

I am willing to pay so this is not a request for a freebie.

Thanks!

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Hi fellas! Today I will have the chance to look at a High Speed that is being sold as part of an estate sale locally. Could possibly be a good find if it works well. A few things that I wanted to know:

Any specific issues with these machines that I should know about?
In good player's condition, what opinions are there on worth?
Electronics-wise, is there anything common to look out for?

I'd appreciate any advice and help!

Good luck, post a few pics of the machine here if you get a chance.

Nothing really specific. Just the normal pinball things - completeness, operates properly, playfield wear, etc.

Well just gave a cursory look...the thing must have lived its whole life here, it's pretty much perfect...but the price is $3k...too steep for me.

Anyone else in CT want to check it out, the link to the sale is here:

https://gsalr.com/pin-ball-machines-furniture-windsor-ct-32674949.html?gallery=1&utm_source=gsalr&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=saledigest

Can you offer less? You might have to hang out there all day though, that's what I've had to do in my experience if I wanted a cheaper price on it

The issue here is that it (and a companion Sorcerer next to it) is being sold by one of those estate sale companies...not the owner. They are usually not willing to budge and also jack up everything in general.

Yes, I have experienced that as well... did they sell?

Anyone have recommendations for a board repair person?

I wish I knew. There's no info for contact after. I'd have called the owner personally after if I could!

I am getting close and I am curious how to test the Match / Credit display. I plugged it in to the Player 4 ribbon cable with no change.

Any suggestions?

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Credit display looks like it failed. Can see a smoky stain near those thin glass tubes in the middle, which I think are fusible links.

Hi Speeders.
I need some advice as ALL my playfield lamps have stopped working.
Everything else works fine (Flippers, Sounds, Score Display)

I checked every fuse with a meter - all ok
I wriggled the connections IJ4 IJ5 IJ6 IJ7 on the CPU board in case of bad connection.

What else can I do?? before the kids rediscover their electronic games !!

Medioil - Australia

Are the back box lamps working?
Did you check for the +18 volts?
Did you check the connectors in the neck?
Did you check the +18 volt bridge?

system 11's have bad times with the GI (general illumination) pins on the boards in the head, and the plugs, they can get toasty and fail, the pins and the connector may need replacing

That's because the connectors are underrated. The pins max out at a rating of 2 to 2 1/2 Amps.
and the more current you have... burn, burn, burn.

Both GI and controlled lights?

Hi ,
Thanks for advice !!
Back Box lights and general illumination on playfield are ok.

"Did you check for the +18 volts?
Did you check the connectors in the neck?
Did you check the +18 volt bridge?"

Not sure what this means Vec-tor . I found a component next to J4 connector labelled +18V is this what you mean, and how do you check?

I have the manual from ipdb if this helps to indentify/describe parts.

Ok. So I sent my MPU board off and it was repaired. The game now boots, but the insert lamps don't work. The solonoids worked for a few seconds when I replaced the fuse in the small board in the lower right of the backbox, but the fuse blew right away. Where should I be starting the troubleshooting?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Eric

There is two of these in the lower right corner of the back box.

The one with two blue wires and a black and purple wire is for making +18 volts DC. With the game on you can measure the black to the purple wire and read 18 volts DC.

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^^^^ post above ^^^^

Disconnect J3 on this board and replace the fuse and power up the game. Does the fuse burn now?

Grumpy. Measured voltage across 1 to 3 (Purple to Black ) . Reads 0.1V only .
attached photo , cause the wire colors are faded .
Thanks, medioil

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Grumpy , u r genius.
Play field lights are up and running !!!!

I viewed this vid

- How to test a bridge rectifier.
After doing this switched machine on - hey presto its' good.

Voltage across is now 17.5V

I now noticed a few minor lights appear to be out - but a project for another day.

Just in time for weekend - so family will be pleased too.
Pinballs aren't much fun when the lights are out.

Thank You. Thank You. Thank You.

Medioil

Grumpy is always helping us out . He knows his stuff and shares it . People like Grumpy keep me in this hobby without spending a fortune on $75.00 per hour service calls. He's a great guy.

Ok, so I replaced the fuse on the flipper power board with the right one (had a 2.5 instead of a 5A fuse) - Flippers started working. For a while. Inserts still don't work. Now no coils are not working and I think this is why: Should I just replace the power supply board?

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looks great! Did you install the overlay?