Just thought I would share some pictures of my restoration of my cabinet on my High Speed Pin.
My decals came in yesterday so I tackled the left side and front of the machine today. Nothing beats the ease of
vinyl decals! It turned out awesome. Of course you can't just stick them on. I prepped the side and front and filled
in any bad spots with wood filler and then sanded it down.
I took also cleaned up the silver side rail while I had it off. Next is the back box and right side of the machine.
I will post pictures when finished with those.

Thanks!

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Mine was drilled for a lock bar also.
I did not know decals were available.
My cabinet is not bad so I will be patching and blending with an air brush.

Just listed a used transformer for sale cheap. Works but needs new wires and connector spiced. Game must have been left on forever when routed. Wire insulation melted together. Heavy item. Must pay actual shipping. This may be a cheap solution for someone needing this part.

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My speaker grill was coming off when I got mine. I pulled it the rest of the way off, took off the fabric, and have it sitting in the sun under a sheet of glass to try and flatten it out a little. Do I have any options for what fabric to put on there? Anyone seen anything cool that I might look into for mine?

Also, One of my pops was blowing a transistor. I put a new one in and it killed that too. Any suggestions as to what to inspect? I don't think the coil was getting locked on, but it was hot, so who knows. I think the game played a little while before I noticed the smell.

My speaker grill fabric was faded so I replaced the entire original speaker mounting with a board cut for two 4" coaxial speakers. The board was cut from particle board and then painted flat black. The "fabric" is dark gray fiberglass screen that I had on hand for screen door repair (available at any hardware or big-box home improvement store). It was glued to the back of the board. The original speaker is 8 ohms, so two 4 ohm speakers wired in series gives you the same impedance. I also installed a 6 inch sub and a separate volume control for the two coax's to get more sound to the sub. It is a very impressive bargain-basement upgrade. Attached is a picture of the head unit speakers.

At some point the coil locked on and/or something on the MPU failed resulting in the smoked driver transistor. The chances are really good that everything "upstream" from the driver transistor is also ruined so simply replacing it will result in another failure. You will need to check your MPU schematic and possibly replace the driver, the pre-driver SCR, a buffer IC (I think?) and the PIA. You'll probably also need to replace the coil. You can check it by taking a resistance reading across the solder tabs and comparing the reading to the other pop bumper coils that are known to be good. If the resistance reading is lower, it is bad.

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That speaker section looks pretty sweet.

If the coil was hot, it was locked on at some point. If the coil locks on when you hit the power switch, the driver, predriver and coil diode are bad. If the coil locks when you start a game then you have a logic chip problem. The problem is that if a coil locks on for one second the current that flows thru the coil is more than the TIPs and diodes can handle and they need to be replaced, period. If you could smell the coil burning then the coil and sleeve are shot and need to be replaced. The first thing you need to check is the skirt and switch for the pop bumper. If the skirt doesn't move freely or sticks then the switch will stay closed and melt another coil. Make sure the switch is gaped properly. Then replace the coil, diode and sleeve, but leave one wire off. Replace the TIP 122 with a TIP102 as they are stronger and replace the predriver. Reinstall the CPU and power on the pin. Touch the wire to the coil lug, nothing should happen. Start a game and retest the coil again, still nothing should happen. Turn off power and resolder the wire on the coil.

Have not checked the coil diode yet, but I have the board in hand. Q77 is what is toast, and Q76 is the predriver according to the manual. Q76 checks out ok compared to the transistors next to it. Will check the coil diode in a bit and see what that is like. When I could smell stuff it was like a hairdryer cooking dust, so I think it was a very dusty coil heating up dust, and not melting plastic, but I will check the coil as well.

You need to replace it anyway and the coil diode too.

The coil is toast for sure. The 2 good ones measure 3.9ohms and the bad one is .4ohms.

While under there I found a resistor pack (the cement resistors) with the small one missing and the big one with one lead broken off. Orange wire coming in and what looks like either black and blue or black and purple feeding out. Trying to find that one in the schematic now.

EDIT: Found it. Schematics look like they say Q85, special solenoid 6, but the solenoid chart/table says special #6 is Q79. Either way, looks like it's the upper playfield flashers. Will fix that too.

Last thing I remember from before I tore it apart is the ramp divert switches would pretty much never work. Was hoping that and my snapped leads would match up, but switches don't need resistors...

Check for continuity thru the big molex connector on the wire harness.

Hope someone can help. I had a coil lock up, so i pretty much left my High Speed alone for a few years. Finally decided to get it up and running, called a local guy, he came and looked at it, pretty much said i need to replace the MPU. It had a burned transistor and another chip totally burned. As you well know you just can't go out and buy a system 11 replace board for a High Speed. So I did a little research here and sent the board off for replacement, it came back all testing fine.

I had clipped the wires to the bad coil, lower jet bumper, so that would not be an issue. Installed the board and crossed my fingers. Hit the power button and all was well. See happy smile. So know i just have the bad coil to deal with. I replace the coil and solder on the wires, power up. but the coil does not energize. HMMM Well crap

When i go through the test mode to switches edges and test the blades that should active the coil, they test fine, other than the coil never energizes.

I have about $400+ invested in getting it back running, and so close. It is playable, with out the lower jet bumper.

So I'm don't really know what to look at next.

That tests the switch for scoring not for energizing the coil.
Do you have a DMM and or logic probe?

Here is the left backbox finished. Painted the whole back box satin black and then applied decal.
Front of machine with new plunger.
Target Pads installed. Doesn't effect gameplay but does keep the ball from going crazy. Looks good as well.

Next is to tackle right side cabinet and back box.

Thanks.

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Where did you order those decals from?
Cliff

http://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/high-speed-pinball-cabinet-decals/

Yes. The transaction went very smooth. The Decals are very good!
As you can see they look great as well. Nice and thick and easy to install.

Need to find a woman that likes pinball and buys you one for Christmas. Mines a keeper!!!!!

I bought my old HS back from the guy I sold it to a couple of years ago. I'm back in the club & it feels good!

Is it possible to increase the Jackpot amount limit? The limit is 2,000,000.

Thanks!!!

Where did the decal on the coin door come from?

I think it was a different website. I will try to find it.

Hi guys. Been a while since I posted. I've got my High Speed almost 100% working. Finally got the speech to work thanks to my good friend Mike Huntsman. Almost done shopping it completely and waiting for some LED's to come in the mail for the back glass. Only issue left is my player 2 alphanumeric display does not work. Hopefully have that resolved soon. Should be ready to play perfectly by next week. I'll post some pics. This was my first pin and it's been a labor of love with a lot of frustration. The 500 dollar beat up non working game I brought home a year ago is now a beautiful machine that plays great. Super happy and very thankful to all of the information you guys have provided from this group. Truly thank you all it's been a helpful resource when things got tough.

Did you try swapping the cable from player 1 to player 2.
The ribbon cable was the culprit on my game.

Can any one tell me if a tri-zone Transformer will work in a high speed? If I remember correctly all the connectors are the same. That's why I saved it I do believe. I will have to dig it out to confirm this Thanks in advance for all the help

One thing I think I do need is one of those clear ramps..

Contact: Freeplay40
on pinside.

Got to join the club today! One of my all-time favorites! She's a bit rough and needs some work, but she's a player.

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Congrats! One of my most favorite games.

Can anyone post some pictures of the brackets that hold the topper on the head? I've got a topper now, but don't know how it was supposed to be attached. Also while looking up there, pictures of the bracket for holding the police light shade on top would be helpful too. I'm cleaning up my high speed and what was there doesn't look factory, but who knows...

Thanks!

The topper itself was attached by an angle bracket that was riveted to the topper. You can buy new brackets at Home Depot or similar. They look something like the photo below.

As far as the way the light was mounted, I changed mine out to a lightbar and so its custom mounted and cannot provide pics of that.

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Page 38 of the manual shows all parts needed for the beacon.

Perfect, thank you both.

Just joined this club... for my 2nd pin I picked up a HUO High Speed from a seller here on pinside... the thing is immaculate. Only one small issue so far with a plastic piece which appears to be slightly broken. I will post a photo on here shortly to see if anyone has any ideas.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/45568

Love this game!

Here is a photo of a plastic piece broken on the corner... ball knocks it free. I would like to find a replacement plastic but for now I just put it back and tighten it back down. Anyone have an extra one of these?

Thanks!

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That's a real beauty

Could you fill in the broken area with epoxy and then re-drill the hole? Not sure how long that would hold though.

If you search ebay for "Williams high speed" there are always individual used high speed plastics for sale.
That one will pop up if it is not there now.

That PF looks great!

I'm back in the club!!!

I bought a beater though... so on to another HS restoration!

I really need a nice Backglass ... anyone have one they can sell... or know of one you can point me to?

Thanks guys!!

porkbone
Drill a small hole in the plastic on the lower back left side
add new spacer and washer head screw just like the top
of the left side of the plastic. The two breakage points is
a common problem with that piece of plastic. It is a
Williams design flaw. You need to find the "sweet spot"
for the modification.

Does anyone know where I can purchase one of the yellow traffic light cover mods? (post #1688 in this thread)

Thanks!

I have one if you have access to a 3d printer. I can provide the .STL file free of charge.

Does anyone have good scans of the helicopter plastics or the topper ?

I initially tried to build a little support out of washers and superglue to hold it in place, but that only worked for a few days before it broke again. What I did then was swap the two posts at the bottom end of the plastic and drill a new hole to accommodate the swap. The end was so broken off that there was nothing left to attach anyway. Now you can see that the plastic is back a hair from the targets, which is where it was getting hit the most for me (nothing on the bottom end left to hit!). I also had to put some washers on the top right post to make sure it was being held, as that part had also broken off. It's not perfect, but I've already spent enough money working on this thing, I don't need a whole new set of plastics on top of that! :p

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I guess I've been in the club for a couple of months now, and just found this thread yesterday. My machine has some wear, but not nearly as much paint is gone as some of the pics in this thread, thanks to the mylar which I think I'll leave on. Polishing it and the wood seem to work pretty well, I can easily (assuming I've lined them up correctly! :p) shoot the orbit all the way around from both sides and hit the ramp from the top flipper. I rebuilt the flippers and pop bumpers following vid's guides, and now they're great. The pop bumpers can really get going now! Having read through all 35 pages of this thread, I think I found some solutions to some of my remaining problems. There are basically three at this point, the ramp acting strange (go figure!), the shooter not making it up the ramp reliably, and the kickback not always working quite right.

On the ramp, I think I'm pretty much committed to cleaning and adjusting the switches no matter what, but the real problem is that sometimes the diverters stick in the closed position, forcing the ball to the left hideout (I do not believe the coil is stuck on when this happens). A good hard shot will pop them back open, but that isn't a solution. If I manually work them back and forth for a bit, it seems to help them operate properly for a while, but eventually it happens again. I think I may be stuck tearing the whole thing down to clean, but is there anything to look for in particular? The coil and sleeve seem fine when I move them by hand, so I don't think they need to be replaced. I do get phantom pops of the left hideout, which I thought was because maybe one of the switches was being intermittently grounded, but now I'm thinking it's more likely the ramp switch just needs adjustment.

I think I may have solution to the shooter issue after reading through this thread, and I think it's multi-faceted. As it is, I can hit the ramp from the shooter about 40% of the time, but sometimes it doesn't have enough power to make it all the way through, or even up to the left hideout. I've got a new red spring and sleeve coming that should help with that aspect. The legs that came with the machine are rusted so that the leg levelers can't be adjusted any longer, so I have new legs coming. I need this because the angle is currently low, and the ball seems like it hits the high side of the ramp entrance more often than anywhere else. I already did a quick and dirty black spray job on the original legs and they looked good, but not being able to adjust them is a problem. But, I also discovered the adjustment for the metal guide in the shooter lane thanks to this thread, so I think between the three of these things, I should be able to get it up the ramp every time!

On that note, one thing I ran across was getting the shooter tip aligned with the ball, and I'm not sure how to do that. The ball seems to sit a little off-center in the shooter lane, and I don't know that adjusting the plunger will ever line them up perfectly (the tip would have to be partially behind the metal guide to align with the ball as-is). I guess I'll see how all these other adjustments go first before worrying about that. I can get the ball up through the whole ramp as it is, it's just not very reliable, which makes multiballs a two-ball affair more often than not

The other problem is that the kickback is somewhat unreliable. I know it's not always going to hit the exact same spot every time, but sometimes it just doesn't get the ball out of the outlane at all. I'm sure it's an adjustment thing rather than a bad coil, since what happens is that the plunger shoots out, but the timing is such that the ball doesn't shoot out, it just rests on the tip. Sometimes this happens, and the coil fires a second time to pop the ball out, but other times the plunger just sits there until the light goes out, then the ball drains. I'm just not sure how to go about adjusting things to prevent this. I don't think that the plunger is hitting the switch, but maybe that's what is happening and I just can't see it well enough. This only seems to happen about 10% of the time, but it's super frustrating when it does happen (usually in the middle of a really good game, naturally). I haven't really been able to tell if it only happens at specific ball speeds, since sometimes a slow ball will shoot out fine, just like a fast one.

I've been an arcade guy for over 15 years, but this is my first pin, and I'm definitely hooked I had HS on NES when I was a kid, so I already kind of knew the rules, and when this came up for a reasonable price (wasn't a steal, but it wasn't a rip off either) while I was looking to buy, I had to jump on it. I still want a DMD game, but I'm really happy I got this.

Ok, the new legs came in today and they're installed. The angle's now about 6.3 or so, and that seems to have helped the shooter ramp situation somewhat. It does seem like getting the ball all the way up the ramp is maybe a little more difficult from the shooter, so it's a good thing that I've got a new spring on the way. I think I may still have to angle the metal guide down just slightly to help though, since it still hits too high sometimes.

I've only played a dozen or so games since the new legs were installed, but I haven't had an issue with the kickback yet. I'm wondering if the increased angle makes the ball more likely to hit the switch 'correctly'.

What a different less than two degrees makes! It's faster, but I seem to be getting far more SDTM shots in my first plays after increasing the angle...

If you countersink the right guide wall so that the ball does not rub against
it while you are plunging it in the shooter trough, it will make the ramp shot easier.
It takes a little finessing and adjusting the screws under the playfield in
order to shift the wall to the right a little bit.

Couldn't resist. A couple years ago I was showing my clear ramp to Steve Richie at the NW Pinball show. I had a slight issue with alignment of the shooter rod and he commented, "You know how we fix that at the factory?...2 by 4 and a hammer!"