High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.

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By lordloss

3 years ago


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  • Started 3 years ago
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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by HS1STPIN

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There are 1714 posts in topic. You are on page 35 of 35.
#1701 23 days ago

Just thought I would share some pictures of my restoration of my cabinet on my High Speed Pin.
My decals came in yesterday so I tackled the left side and front of the machine today. Nothing beats the ease of
vinyl decals! It turned out awesome. Of course you can't just stick them on. I prepped the side and front and filled
in any bad spots with wood filler and then sanded it down.
I took also cleaned up the silver side rail while I had it off. Next is the back box and right side of the machine.
I will post pictures when finished with those.

Thanks!

Front-After-Decals (resized).jpg

before-front (resized).jpg

After-Decals-Left Side (resized).jpg

1-Before-Prep-Left Side (resized).jpg

1 week later
#1702 15 days ago

Mine was drilled for a lock bar also.
I did not know decals were available.
My cabinet is not bad so I will be patching and blending with an air brush.

#1703 15 days ago

Just listed a used transformer for sale cheap. Works but needs new wires and connector spiced. Game must have been left on forever when routed. Wire insulation melted together. Heavy item. Must pay actual shipping. This may be a cheap solution for someone needing this part.

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

#1704 13 days ago

My speaker grill was coming off when I got mine. I pulled it the rest of the way off, took off the fabric, and have it sitting in the sun under a sheet of glass to try and flatten it out a little. Do I have any options for what fabric to put on there? Anyone seen anything cool that I might look into for mine?

Also, One of my pops was blowing a transistor. I put a new one in and it killed that too. Any suggestions as to what to inspect? I don't think the coil was getting locked on, but it was hot, so who knows. I think the game played a little while before I noticed the smell.

#1705 13 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

My speaker grill was coming off when I got mine. I pulled it the rest of the way off, took off the fabric, and have it sitting in the sun under a sheet of glass to try and flatten it out a little. Do I have any options for what fabric to put on there? Anyone seen anything cool that I might look into for mine?

My speaker grill fabric was faded so I replaced the entire original speaker mounting with a board cut for two 4" coaxial speakers. The board was cut from particle board and then painted flat black. The "fabric" is dark gray fiberglass screen that I had on hand for screen door repair (available at any hardware or big-box home improvement store). It was glued to the back of the board. The original speaker is 8 ohms, so two 4 ohm speakers wired in series gives you the same impedance. I also installed a 6 inch sub and a separate volume control for the two coax's to get more sound to the sub. It is a very impressive bargain-basement upgrade. Attached is a picture of the head unit speakers.

Quoted from desertT1:

Also, One of my pops was blowing a transistor. I put a new one in and it killed that too. Any suggestions as to what to inspect? I don't think the coil was getting locked on, but it was hot, so who knows. I think the game played a little while before I noticed the smell.

At some point the coil locked on and/or something on the MPU failed resulting in the smoked driver transistor. The chances are really good that everything "upstream" from the driver transistor is also ruined so simply replacing it will result in another failure. You will need to check your MPU schematic and possibly replace the driver, the pre-driver SCR, a buffer IC (I think?) and the PIA. You'll probably also need to replace the coil. You can check it by taking a resistance reading across the solder tabs and comparing the reading to the other pop bumper coils that are known to be good. If the resistance reading is lower, it is bad.

IMG_1687 (resized).JPG

#1706 13 days ago

That speaker section looks pretty sweet.

#1707 13 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Also, One of my pops was blowing a transistor. I put a new one in and it killed that too. Any suggestions as to what to inspect? I don't think the coil was getting locked on, but it was hot, so who knows. I think the game played a little while before I noticed the smell.

If the coil was hot, it was locked on at some point. If the coil locks on when you hit the power switch, the driver, predriver and coil diode are bad. If the coil locks when you start a game then you have a logic chip problem. The problem is that if a coil locks on for one second the current that flows thru the coil is more than the TIPs and diodes can handle and they need to be replaced, period. If you could smell the coil burning then the coil and sleeve are shot and need to be replaced. The first thing you need to check is the skirt and switch for the pop bumper. If the skirt doesn't move freely or sticks then the switch will stay closed and melt another coil. Make sure the switch is gaped properly. Then replace the coil, diode and sleeve, but leave one wire off. Replace the TIP 122 with a TIP102 as they are stronger and replace the predriver. Reinstall the CPU and power on the pin. Touch the wire to the coil lug, nothing should happen. Start a game and retest the coil again, still nothing should happen. Turn off power and resolder the wire on the coil.

#1708 12 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

If the coil was hot, it was locked on at some point. If the coil locks on when you hit the power switch, the driver, predriver and coil diode are bad. If the coil locks when you start a game then you have a logic chip problem. The problem is that if a coil locks on for one second the current that flows thru the coil is more than the TIPs and diodes can handle and they need to be replaced, period. If you could smell the coil burning then the coil and sleeve are shot and need to be replaced. The first thing you need to check is the skirt and switch for the pop bumper. If the skirt doesn't move freely or sticks then the switch will stay closed and melt another coil. Make sure the switch is gaped properly. Then replace the coil, diode and sleeve, but leave one wire off. Replace the TIP 122 with a TIP102 as they are stronger and replace the predriver. Reinstall the CPU and power on the pin. Touch the wire to the coil lug, nothing should happen. Start a game and retest the coil again, still nothing should happen. Turn off power and resolder the wire on the coil.

Have not checked the coil diode yet, but I have the board in hand. Q77 is what is toast, and Q76 is the predriver according to the manual. Q76 checks out ok compared to the transistors next to it. Will check the coil diode in a bit and see what that is like. When I could smell stuff it was like a hairdryer cooking dust, so I think it was a very dusty coil heating up dust, and not melting plastic, but I will check the coil as well.

#1709 12 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Q76 checks out ok compared to the transistors next to it

You need to replace it anyway and the coil diode too.

#1710 12 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You need to replace it anyway and the coil diode too.

The coil is toast for sure. The 2 good ones measure 3.9ohms and the bad one is .4ohms.

While under there I found a resistor pack (the cement resistors) with the small one missing and the big one with one lead broken off. Orange wire coming in and what looks like either black and blue or black and purple feeding out. Trying to find that one in the schematic now.

EDIT: Found it. Schematics look like they say Q85, special solenoid 6, but the solenoid chart/table says special #6 is Q79. Either way, looks like it's the upper playfield flashers. Will fix that too.

Last thing I remember from before I tore it apart is the ramp divert switches would pretty much never work. Was hoping that and my snapped leads would match up, but switches don't need resistors...

#1711 12 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

ramp divert switches would pretty much never work

Check for continuity thru the big molex connector on the wire harness.

#1712 8 days ago

Hope someone can help. I had a coil lock up, so i pretty much left my High Speed alone for a few years. Finally decided to get it up and running, called a local guy, he came and looked at it, pretty much said i need to replace the MPU. It had a burned transistor and another chip totally burned. As you well know you just can't go out and buy a system 11 replace board for a High Speed. So I did a little research here and sent the board off for replacement, it came back all testing fine.

I had clipped the wires to the bad coil, lower jet bumper, so that would not be an issue. Installed the board and crossed my fingers. Hit the power button and all was well. See happy smile. So know i just have the bad coil to deal with. I replace the coil and solder on the wires, power up. but the coil does not energize. HMMM Well crap

When i go through the test mode to switches edges and test the blades that should active the coil, they test fine, other than the coil never energizes.

I have about $400+ invested in getting it back running, and so close. It is playable, with out the lower jet bumper.

So I'm don't really know what to look at next.

#1713 8 days ago
Quoted from Eagle509:

When i go through the test mode to switches edges and test the blades that should active the coil

That tests the switch for scoring not for energizing the coil.
Do you have a DMM and or logic probe?

#1714 2 days ago
Quoted from HS1STPIN:

Just thought I would share some pictures of my restoration of my cabinet on my High Speed Pin.
My decals came in yesterday so I tackled the left side and front of the machine today. Nothing beats the ease of
vinyl decals! It turned out awesome. Of course you can't just stick them on. I prepped the side and front and filled
in any bad spots with wood filler and then sanded it down.
I took also cleaned up the silver side rail while I had it off. Next is the back box and right side of the machine.
I will post pictures when finished with those.
Thanks!

Here is the left backbox finished. Painted the whole back box satin black and then applied decal.
Front of machine with new plunger.
Target Pads installed. Doesn't effect gameplay but does keep the ball from going crazy. Looks good as well.

Next is to tackle right side cabinet and back box.

Thanks.

Target-Pads (resized).jpg

Front-Newplunger (resized).jpg

leftside-back-box (resized).jpg

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There are 1714 posts in topic. You are on page 35 of 35.

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