(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.


By lordloss

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by pacman11
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There are 3330 posts in this topic. You are on page 34 of 67.
#1651 3 years ago

Hey all, got my pin in and got pics! I'm confident on the body touch ups I'm going to do but would love some opinions on what if anything I should do to the Playfield. It's got some Mylar on it, doesn't look factory though.

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#1652 3 years ago
Quoted from CharlieFriday:

Hey all, got my pin in and got pics! I'm confident on the body touch ups I'm going to do but would love some opinions on what if anything I should do to the Playfield. It's got some Mylar on it, doesn't look factory though.

My Mylar looks exactly like that.

#1653 3 years ago

Sorry I meant it looks like it was applied after some wear was incurred.

#1654 3 years ago
Quoted from CharlieFriday:

would love some opinions on what if anything I should do to the Playfield.

I'd leave the mylar, clean it and play away.
My worry would be paint loss while pulling the mylar. Your level of courage may vary.

#1655 3 years ago

can be buffed to a fantastic shine.
-mof

#1656 3 years ago

the mylar looks just like that.
Has wear and dirt underneath it.
Some heated it up and peeled it back as far as the slings and then put it back....
They melted the sling plastics and the return lane plastics also.

#1657 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

can be buffed to a fantastic shine.
-mof

What is your technique for polishing mylar? I have several machines with old mylar that is a little cloudy but in otherwise very good condition (Xenon, High Speed, Twister).

#1659 3 years ago

Thanks! I'm mostly concerned about the. Bubbling over the inserts.

#1660 3 years ago

Hey, so I'm working on a High Speed for a friend who wants to put it in his bar. All in all it's a decent player's game, new plastics, plays well, etc. The only problem i'm finding is that the kickers seem wildly overpowered. It seems to me that the wireforms should feed the ball to the flipper, not shoot it with such force that it can drain right after you made the all-important ramp shot. I have verified that the coils are correct, and have moved the wireform positions back and forth several times, to no avail. Have any of you had this problem? Has anyone tried switching to a less powerful coil?

#1661 3 years ago

I'm happy to report that I'm both new to the pinball owners club and new to the High Speed club. After a lot of research, High Speed was on my wishlist as a first pin because it's iconic and it's simple enough for the kids, but has a lot of replayability for the adults. Once came up for sale last week, so I drove over an hour to go get it and now I've been playing it nonstop.

I knew absolutely 0 about reparing pinball machines and when the bumpers died, I took a look at the manual and about died from shock. Also there were some switch (I didn't even know what a switch was) issues and the pin was knocking numerous times when I turned it on. I thought all heck was breaking loose. I read this forum and watched videos for probably 30 hours last weekend and actually was able to make some minor repairs which included tracking down a blown fuse and making a minor switch adjustment. I have to say, I was pretty proud of myself...really too proud given the how easy it was once I knew what to do. A fuse replacement? Congratulations, Mr. Genius.

Anyway, I do want to thank everyone on here and all the Pinsiders for all the help, even when it was all from past posts by doing many many searches.

So I also have a few lamps that aren't working and I've tracked them down to what looks like a blown tip42 transistor at Q58 (don't I sound smart). I am going to do some soldering practice on some old boards before I actually try to replace this thing. The blown transistor actually looks like someone used a tip42c and there is another transistor on the Q54 that looks jacked up, but it seems to be working. I guess I will probably go ahead and replace that one as well.

I do have a question that I can't seem to find an answer for. Is a tip42 and tip42a the same? I am looking around to buy some parts, and they seem to both reference the same Williams part number. Sorry if this is an ignorant question.

TIP42 http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1697
TIP42A http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=tip42

Both reference Williams 5191-08978-00

Up next will be to rebuild the flippers, especially since the upper flipper ramp shot seems way too hard to hit, but maybe it's meant to be that way. And then eventually, maybe a playfield cleaning.

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#1662 3 years ago

Congrats on the High Speed. One of my favorite games. Maybe one of these in your future if your original fails!....Steve Richie endorsed!

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#1663 3 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Congrats on the High Speed. One of my favorite games. Maybe one of these in your future if your original fails!....Steve Richie endorsed!

My ramp is actually a bit scratched up, so I may just do that. Where can I find more information?

#1664 3 years ago

Just had another request and sent him a pm. Will copy and send the same message to you.

#1665 3 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Hey, so I'm working on a High Speed for a friend who wants to put it in his bar. All in all it's a decent player's game, new plastics, plays well, etc. The only problem i'm finding is that the kickers seem wildly overpowered. It seems to me that the wireforms should feed the ball to the flipper, not shoot it with such force that it can drain right after you made the all-important ramp shot. I have verified that the coils are correct, and have moved the wireform positions back and forth several times, to no avail. Have any of you had this problem? Has anyone tried switching to a less powerful coil?

Mine is like that, they come out like a cannon shot. I just learned to catch the ball using the flippers.

#1666 3 years ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

Mine is like that, they come out like a cannon shot. I just learned to catch the ball using the flippers.

That's fine if you *can* catch it. I'm pretty sure Ritchie didn't intend for it to shoot the ball through the flippers after successfully completing the ramp shot, though...

#1667 3 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Will copy and send the same message to you.

Please send me the necessary ramp info.
Thanks
Cliff

#1668 3 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

That's fine if you *can* catch it. I'm pretty sure Ritchie didn't intend for it to shoot the ball through the flippers after successfully completing the ramp shot, though...

Can you post a video? And the way I play it is if it comes out of the left or right side kickout, put the flipper up and let it run into it and it will come to rest.

#1669 3 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Can you post a video? And the way I play it is if it comes out of the left or right side kickout, put the flipper up and let it run into it and it will come to rest.

Will do. I tried holding the flipper up, and it works some of the time, while other times it just wings off wildly (slingshot, outlane, go cry yourself to sleep "Speeder 1"...)

#1670 3 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Will do. I tried holding the flipper up, and it works some of the time, while other times it just wings off wildly (slingshot, outlane, go cry yourself to sleep "Speeder 1"...)

Is the wire form tight? Sounds like it's rattling a little and so you are getting random feeds from it.

#1671 3 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Is the wire form tight? Sounds like it's rattling a little and so you are getting random feeds from it.

Yeah, it's tight, and I have tried to reposition it but that doesn't appear to be the real problem. I'll try to shoot that video tonight.

#1672 3 years ago

Hey all, I did some board work this week and got my High Speed to boot with no issues. Very excited.

The three main issues aside from normal shop/replacing old parts stuff I'm having are...

-no lower right display
-no backbox lights
-playfield paint issues

For the display, it seems to just be out. i'm going to fully resolder the pins on it, but the lower left display worked in both lower positions, so i know the board is ok. that display also had some distortion in it. Honestly, I might just replace the displays with an Xpin set.

The backbox has no lights aside from the game over, which do come on and flash. This one has me a bit stumped, as I assume those aren't on the same control? I tried some known working bulbs, no luck. I've got a picture of a connector below, some are browned like this but none are burned. I don't have enough experience yet to know if this needs replacing or is just age.

I've also added some close ups of the playfield paint issues. There are some very clear/simple touch up/worn areas on the upper playfield, but I don't know how to handle the below around the lanes/flippers.

Any ideas or tips you have would be really appreciated. If I should be posting this kind of thing somewhere else, please just point me there!

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1 week later
#1673 3 years ago

Hello everyone....great to see all the support here for High Speed.
I'm so excited. I'm suppose to have my first pinball machine delivered today. I'm excited to say its a HIGH SPEED pin.
I will post pictures once it has been delivered. I have played this pin since I was a kid.

Looking forward to getting to know the pinball machine inside and out.
I love some of the mods I have seen in the forum. Especially the clear ramp with road stickers.
FreePlay40 - I hope you still have some for sale. I tried to find some links but couldn't find the link to the stickers for the bottom
of the clear ramp. If someone has the link to the stickers and stop light mod cover (yellow) that would be great.
It sounds like FreePlay40 has the mod for re-location to the back left.

Thanks!
HS1STPIN

#1674 3 years ago
Quoted from HS1STPIN:

Hello everyone....great to see all the support here for High Speed.
I'm so excited. I'm suppose to have my first pinball machine delivered today. I'm excited to say its a HIGH SPEED pin.
I will post pictures once it has been delivered. I have played this pin since I was a kid.
Looking forward to getting to know the pinball machine inside and out.
I love some of the mods I have seen in the forum. Especially the clear ramp with road stickers.
FreePlay40 - I hope you still have some for sale. I tried to find some links but couldn't find the link to the stickers for the bottom
of the clear ramp. If someone has the link to the stickers and stop light mod cover (yellow) that would be great.
It sounds like FreePlay40 has the mod for re-location to the back left.
Thanks!
HS1STPIN

Congrats on your first pin!

#1675 3 years ago
Quoted from HS1STPIN:

FreePlay40 - I hope you still have some for sale.

Yup....My favorite ramp!

#1676 3 years ago

Awesome Thanks FREEPLAY40.

Can anyone please tell me how to separate the backbox from the main base? I can't get the pinball into my room upstairs.
I have looked and can't seem to figure it out. I also see a key/lock on top next to the red flasher. What is that for?

Thanks for the quick responses.

HS1STPIN

#1677 3 years ago
Quoted from HS1STPIN:

Can anyone please tell me how to separate the backbox from the main base? I can't get the pinball into my room upstairs.
I have looked and can't seem to figure it out. I also see a key/lock on top next to the red flasher. What is that for?

That lock on top will unlock the backglass. You can then carefully lift the backglass up and out of the game.
That will allow you to open the light panel behind the glass.
That will allow you to get to the two bolts that hold the head assembly to the main cabinet.

#1678 3 years ago
Quoted from HS1STPIN:

Awesome Thanks FREEPLAY40.
Can anyone please tell me how to separate the backbox from the main base? I can't get the pinball into my room upstairs.
I have looked and can't seem to figure it out. I also see a key/lock on top next to the red flasher. What is that for?
Thanks for the quick responses.
HS1STPIN

**************Do not cut any wires************
Take off the backglass
Open lamp panel
Remove the groundbraid
Make note of the wire connectors for each PCB
Remove connectors
2 or 4 bolts secure the head the body
Close the panel and fold the head
On the bottom of the head, find the hinge and unscrew

#1679 3 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

That lock on top will unlock the backglass. You can then carefully lift the backglass up and out of the game.
That will allow you to open the light panel behind the glass.
That will allow you to get to the two bolts that hold the head assembly to the main cabinet.

Great thanks. Now I just need the correct key. They one that was sent does not unlock it.
Thanks for the quick reply!

#1680 3 years ago
Quoted from HS1STPIN:

Now I just need the correct key.

Open the coin door and look on the inside. The backbox key is often hung on or near the back of the coin door.

#1681 3 years ago

Thanks to everyone for the quick replies. I was able to find the correct key and get the backbox off so I could fit it through the door.
Here are some pictures of the Pin. Pretty good shape for its age. Cabinet is a little rough around the edges but I will touch up with some black paint.

Playfield looks to be in great shape. Looks to have the protective sticker on the playfield. Do you all think its ok to remove that and put down a new one? I wanted to make sure when taking off the old one that it doesn't pull the paint off the wood playfield.

Will send pictures tomorrow.

Thanks again!!!!

#1682 3 years ago
Quoted from HS1STPIN:

Looks to have the protective sticker on the playfield. Do you all think its ok to remove that and put down a new one? I wanted to make sure when taking off the old one that it doesn't pull the paint off the wood playfield.

Do some reading on here about mylar removal. It's a crapshoot on paint coming up with the mylar. System 11 games (like High Speed) seem to be some of the worst for paint loss. I would leave it unless it's already coming loose or otherwise causing problems. YMMV.

#1683 3 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Do some reading on here about mylar removal. It's a crapshoot on paint coming up with the mylar. System 11 games (like High Speed) seem to be some of the worst for paint loss. I would leave it unless it's already coming loose or otherwise causing problems. YMMV.

I agree. Unless there is something really wrong with the mylar, I'd leave it.

#1684 3 years ago

I need a good picture of the board under the top of the inside of the backbox that attaches to the siren flashing light. When I purchased mine the guy took the flashing light apart since it would not fit his ceiling and took the wiring out of the backbox that connect to it and left the wiring cut hanging in the backbox? I assume a resistor board and a relay to start the light and motor for the siren. He left the 1 fuse holder for the motor though.

Thanks in advance.

#1685 3 years ago

Hi Group,
I need a quality scan of the High Speed CPU Board Layout and parts listing page from the manual. The one I have is very bad quality. Thank you.

Ken

#1686 3 years ago

Here are some pictures of my machine as promised in a couple replies back.

Does anyone know what the lamp socket is called that is in the back upper left of the machine?
The lamp does not come on and I have tried a couple different bulbs. However I put a LED in there and it lights up.
If I can replace the socket please advise where you could get one. (See Pic)
So not sure if the socket is bad or what. Also the freeway lights (stars in the corners don't light up. I couldn't seem to see the bulb when I lifted up the playfield.

Thanks,
HS1STPIN

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#1687 3 years ago
Quoted from HS1STPIN:

The lamp does not come on and I have tried a couple different bulbs.

There is 2 bulbs in series on this circuit. If one or the other burns out neither will light. When you install a LED bulb in the socket the power from the warming resistor for this bulb is enough to light an LED all the time. But this bulb shouldn't be on all the time because its a flasher bulb. If you want to run LEDs in the flasher circuits you will need to remove the warming resistors. The other bulb for this circuit is in the upper right corner under the plastic and is most likely burned out.

Quoted from HS1STPIN:(stars in the corners don't light up.

These are switches and do not light up.

#1688 3 years ago

First attempt at Traffic Light Mod. 2 of the 4 tabs broke off during printing. I did not create this file, was given to me my a member on this site.

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#1689 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

There is 2 bulbs in series on this circuit. If one or the other burns out neither will light. When you install a LED bulb in the socket the power from the warming resistor for this bulb is enough to light an LED all the time. But this bulb shouldn't be on all the time because its a flasher bulb. If you want to run LEDs in the flasher circuits you will need to remove the warming resistors. The other bulb for this circuit is in the upper right corner under the plastic and is most likely burned out.

These are switches and do not light up.

Thanks for the info. I was able to catch them flashing. I appreciate the info!

HS1STPIN

#1690 3 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

First attempt at Traffic Light Mod. 2 of the 4 tabs broke off during printing. I did not create this file, was given to me my a member on this site.

That looks really good. Please let us know if you get it hooked up..fitted and working. I will buy one!

HS1STPIN

#1691 3 years ago
Quoted from HS1STPIN:

That looks really good. Please let us know if you get it hooked up..fitted and working. I will buy one!
HS1STPIN

I am making another one, will post more pics of the completed assembly once finished. More details to follow.

Ken

#1692 3 years ago

That looks great. I would buy one to let me know

#1693 3 years ago

Speaking of those two flashers behind the ramp, I have two questions:
They take 63's, right?
If they don't come on with new 63's in them where should I look 1st for the problem?

#1694 3 years ago
Quoted from embryonjohn:

They take 63's, right?

Yes, but you can use #89 bulbs and they will last a lot longer.

Quoted from embryonjohn:If they don't come on with new 63's in them where should I look 1st for the problem?

The first thing I would do is set your DMM to DC volts and the black lead to the ground braid and the red led to the metal tab of Q-79 on the CPU board. Should be @ 28-32 volts. Then I would take a jumper wire and ground one side to the ground braid and briefly touch the other side to the metal tab of Q-79 on the CPU board. The bulbs should flash each time Q-79 is grounded. If both of these work as described then the CPU board needs troubleshooting.

#1695 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Yes, but you can use #89 bulbs and they will last a lot longer.

The first thing I would do is set your DMM to DC volts and the black lead to the ground braid and the red led to the metal tab of Q-79 on the CPU board. Should be @ 28-32 volts. Then I would take a jumper wire and ground one side to the ground braid and briefly touch the other side to the metal tab of Q-79 on the CPU board. The bulbs should flash each time Q-79 is grounded. If both of these work as described then the CPU board needs troubleshooting.

Thanks!
I'm going right out to my shop to try it

#1696 3 years ago

Let me know what you find.

#1697 3 years ago

Does anyone have a NOS or used Center Playfield Plastic piece?
The one above the R_Y_G targets just north of center or in front of the first pop bumper?

I can't find any playfield plastics for sale. There is some on ebay but not the one I need. HA!

Thanks!
HS1STPIN

#1698 3 years ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

First attempt at Traffic Light Mod. 2 of the 4 tabs broke off during printing. I did not create this file, was given to me my a member on this site.

Glad you are using it! It looks like the thin tabs are parallel with the printing direction. You can try rotating it 90 degrees relative to the print direction which might make the thin tab stronger. Or try reinforcing it with epoxy on the inside. Mine held up good. I'll have to get back to you with what print technology I use though.

Also the posts are meant to be crossed drilled for metals rods that connect to the cabinet. This would look like if this were mounted to a wall or pole if that makes sense.

I can try making that area stronger if you need also and give you another file.

#1699 3 years ago
Quoted from Langless28:

Glad you are using it! It looks like the thin tabs are parallel with the printing direction. You can try rotating it 90 degrees relative to the print direction which might make the thin tab stronger. Or try reinforcing it with epoxy on the inside. Mine held up good. I'll have to get back to you with what print technology I use though.
Also the posts are meant to be crossed drilled for metals rods that connect to the cabinet. This would look like if this were mounted to a wall or pole if that makes sense.
I can try making that area stronger if you need also and give you another file.

I did rotate the model 90 degrees, just have not had time to print one yet. Trial and Error.

#1700 3 years ago

I just completed a project to replace the TIP42 transistors with MOSFETs and remove the 27 ohm cement resistors in the lamp matrix section of the MPU from my Batman Forever, Time Machine and High Speed (the lamp matrix circuitry is nearly identical for all of them). The changeover is seamless and the result is much lower heat in the backbox and the risk of heat damage to the MPU board is eliminated (the cement resistors get very hot). Here is a link to a post I did in the BF thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/suppose-we-flipbatman-forever-club/page/10#post-3562010

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