Hello everyone,

I got a High Speed last week!

I used to play this table as much as possible when it came out. I think I was about 13 years old.

My pin had a malfunctioning CPU board, some acid corrosion that got repaired, I'm about to go and pick up in a couple hours!

I went through the playfield and did all the rubber replacement, cleaned the playfield, put new balls in.

My question is I have two large rubber rings that go under the ramp, but the job looks awful to do. Any tips? I did find one thread, but It doesn't give me the good feelings...

I have very little to do, as the machine was missing the San Diego spinner (replaced with an old, heavier EM one for now) and a couple of plastics. Otherwise, pretty amazing condition, fairly clean, though a bubbling mylar to deal with some day

I'll post pictures soon!

Anyway, if you have any ramp removal advice, I would appreciate it.

Thanks,

Tim

Take lots of pics for the ramp removal, could be 1 pic per screw/part. The rings at the back are 5" for reference

Easiest to take the playfield completely out.

OK, I have no issues with taking the playfield out. I'm going to enjoy my new game for a bit first!

Thanks,

Tim

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I have had my machine for about 3 weeks now. Having a blast with it.

Question #1 : Is the "Shoot Again" in the backglass supposed to light up with an extra ball ? Indicator in playfield lights and so does display but not the one in the lower RH corner of the BG. Bulb is good. (EDIT : it was a connector issue and is working now)

Question #2 : What are the small steel collars meant to hold? There is one under the LH ramp and 2 ( one on either side) next to the RH flasher above shooter lane.

Question # 3: What purpose do the long screws with collars on them that stick up above the wood on each side of the playfield ?

If it would help to answer if I posted pics LMK.

Thanks,
Cliff

I think you are referring to the ball blocks, I don't know the technical name for them, they just keep the ball from getting stuck on top of the plastics.

Thanks.
It makes sense and I wish I had figured that out myself.....

I will take some pics, My game is apart for maintenance.

I was getting some terrible speaker buzz. When I got my game, the CPU was in the cab and I only had 2 bolts to hold it up in the head. The buzz was so bad that it was the same level as the actual sounds. I got the rest of the hardware to bolt the board in and the buzz seems to be 100% gone. Now, if nothing is happening, there is what sounds like a car idling that you can hear during lulls (as opposed to lolz) in the music. Even if it's not supposed to be like that, I'm super happy with the way things sound.

Hello,

New issue with machine. When I power on, everything OK in attract mode, however, flippers activate when you hit the respective flipper button. This happens before a credit is inserted or game is started...

If the issue is related to the CPU board, also let me know, as I just had most of the board repaired, and want to know where to look!

Thanks

There is a relay that activates the flippers. Sounds like yours is either locked shut, or is grounded so it's always activated.

Does anyone have a "Drive 55 and Stay Alive" plastic to sell. I need to replace a broken one.

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get in line, been searching for one for some time now.

I have a brand new set of CPR plastics that I could probably be convinced to break up. All the plastics are new with the backing still on them.
I also have 2 CPR toppers, 1 installed but in excellent condition and comes with brackets, the other not installed, with protective covers still on, no brackets.
Finally a custom keychain made out of a broken plastic "Drive 55 and Stay Alive". Pretty cool on the keys I leave in the front of the machine.
Here are the pics of what I have.
** PM me with offers on any pieces you are looking for. ** Shipping $5 (or less if it costs less). $10 for the toppers
HS new Plastics (resized).jpg
HS keychain - topper (resized).jpg
Added over 7 years ago: **** Update as of 11/8/16 Both choppers, 1 topper, the keychain, and the "Drive 55..." plastic are sold. I have everything else as of now. PM me with offers.

Added over 7 years ago: ***** FINAL UPDATE, ALL CPR PLASTIC PARTS HAVE BEEN SOLD INCLUDING BOTH TOPPERS *****

How much for the whole thing? I will need all of them for my restoration.

Stupid question...my HS is missing a post at the top of the left target bank. Looks like it holds a 5/16" rubber according to the manual, but while browsing Marco's I see different heights, etc. Can anyone point me to the correct part please? Green arrow pointing at post in question - thanks

mid2 (resized).JPG

Sure thing, it's a standard star post. 5/16" tall 03-8319-9

Thank you!

Ok so my hs just started acting funny. If you turn on the machine and start a game the ball doesnt kick to the outlane. The game also doesnt recognise a drain. All other functions work including targets scoring, flippers etc. Why do i feel like this is some minor issue like a fuse or something?

Is the solenoid firing to the outlane and it's getting stuck? Mine does this and I keep telling myself I'm going to fix it.

Possibly the "Outhole" switch problem. I suggest going into the test menu and check to see if the outhole switch is working. If the 3rd ball is sitting in the outhole and the game doesnt know it, it will not end the ball and also wont start a game because it thinks a ball is missing. There are also 3 switches that read the 3 balls in the game (left, center, and right trough) but I would try the outhole switch first. Its the very front switch in the middle of the playfield and is the easiest to hit when putting items in and out of thru the coin door. Most likely culprit in my eyes.

But if the game thinks there is a ball mossing then it wouldnt start up a game right? The machine credits up fine. But when a game is started it will not kick a ball into the outlane. And doesnt recognise a drain either. Ill run a yest on the switches and report back.

This is called the shooter lane.

This is the outhole. This is the switch you need to check, #9 outhole. Put game in switch test, remove all the balls and use one ball to test this outhole switch. It maybe a broken wire, a bad switch diode or the switch is just out of adjustment. I have seen broken rubbers slide down the playfield and into the outhole blocking the ball from activating the switch,

So I replaced some of the lights in the backbox, and I went from the attract lights flashing to no flashing. Hopefully you know what I mean--the GI lights all flash when in attract mode and I assume during the game. Now they don't. Not a big deal in my eyes but any ideas? I did put in the latest LED lights and some non-ghosters are probably in there along with a Matrix LED strip. Wondering if that somehow is defeating the flashing GI of the game??

The GI flashing is controlled by a mechanical relay. I think there is a test in the coil test section. LED bulbs shouldn't have an affect on the relay.

Ok so upon further investigation most of the solenoids dont fire. The pops work, slings work. But kickout hile doesnt, diverters dont, drain kicker and shooter lane kicker dont, and neither hideout. Now i really have no idea what to do. Switch test indicates that all trough switches are working properly so dont know what to think. Maybe an email to clay is in order?

Check the fuses & fuse holders. Electric troubleshooting can be a challenge.

Check for power at the coil lugs on the coils that aren't working.

With so many switches out, I figured it had to be an entire switch column out (I just went through that and had lost an eprom on my main board). But I dont see any one column in the switch matrix that has all the switches you mentioned. I am leaning toward a fuse or broken wire or wires as well.

Anyone have a nice HS pop bumper cap for sale.

I realize after some time on pinside that everyone's definition of nice is slightly different.

So, I would like to buy a cap that has no chunks missing, no bulb burn, and only small scratches.
PM me if you have one to sell.

I just picked up a couple of sets of these:

ebay.com link: Williams high speed pinball machine cap set

Sweet !!!
I will be ordering a couple myself.

I just paid $20 for a used one with a chunk out of it.
Moral: always ask for pictures.

I only need one of the caps as I have one with a chip in it. Don't need all 3 and Classic Arcades wont sell me just one (weird since they claim they make them). Anyway, if someone wants to sell me a new one, I will pay $10 shipped to 92203. (They are online for $25 shipped). Send me a PM. Thanks!

I received the ones from E-bay.
They are not hot stamped as the site would have you believe.
They are red pop bumper caps with silk screened/ printed W logo and silk screened lines around the edge.

That said, I am still ok with them because they do not have any chips in them.
If I bought the ones from PBR , they would have the hot stamped W logo but I would have to make the slide decals for the lines around the edge.

So, factoring the $ to buy and ship from PBR , then the time needed to make the decals ( the PDF file for it is available here on pinside) and
put it all together.....$25 finished for 3 seems like a good deal. I will still keep an eye out for originals but if I cannot find one I will use all 3 of these and no one will really be able to tell.

It likely won't match the other 2 you have.

OK, good to know. So its run these new ones, or the old ones, but they wont match if mixed. Thanks!

If it is not a collector piece, at the end of the day, no one will look that close. It's all about the game play. If the pop's didn't work, everyone would notice. I have all sorts of cracked and broken plastic but you know what? No one notices because all they want is to get the lights to flash, the siren to go off and the red light to spin.

That is absolutely true.

Lots of times I will cut some lexan to fit under a broken plastic to support it and use some crazy glue gel to bond the broken piece on and
nobody ever notices. The plastic looks complete and is protected by the lexan below it.

In the case of the HS I am working on I am going for a very nice restoration. So, I am more picky on this one than I might be on something else.

Good luck with your restoration. I kind of enjoy fixing and making it work more than playing.

If I were to pick one or the other I am with you.
I do love to play them but I enjoy fixing them up more.

Got some mods from a place I wouldn't have thought. Went to a model train/toy show today for my kids and found this company making small EL signs. Had to represent Boston and get the Citigo sign. It lights up pretty cool and just did a quick test fit. This might come in handy because I have some dead space to kill once I put in my clear ramp. Also found a Lamborghini diablo matchbox and put it on the unslighy metal deflector at the end of the ramp.

Edit- a quick search and apparently these el signs have been found prior and an issue about half life of the paper before it fizzles out is low. Only time will tell I guess. My games are not on a lot. Maybe 20 minutes every day or so.

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Does anyone know if all the flasher bulbs in the game are 63s?

Yes they are, but #89 will work. They last longer but a little bit dimmer.

Thank youGRUMPY. I just joined the club when I picked up the game a few weeks ago and enjoying the game

Fun times in your future.

Get it and then post some pictures here. I would suggest cleaning and waxing the playfield. That will get the dirt off and keep it reasonably protected so you can play the heck out of it. Check the batteries for leaks and just replace them anyway. If there is acid damage, we can help deal with that.

Outside of that, it might be a matter of if you notice things (switches/coils) not working. Everything can be fixed, but the main board is hard to find, so be nice to it and handle it only if you need to.

There are many resources out there to help guide what you do next.

Some do nothing, and some invest 50+ hours making their game look and play as sharp as possible... (and learn a few tricks or two along the way)

Here are a few I started:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/post-purchase-checklist
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shop-job-master-checklist
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/playfield-swap-guide (has a good tool list near the top)

-mof

Does anyone have a playfield scan for High Speed that they would be willing to share?

Hey... What parts or scans do you need. PM me when you can. Nick.

http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1176&picno=46066&zoom=1