Since you are not getting sound from the cpu and the background sound board I would replace the op amp U-5 on the cpu board. Then retest.

You don't need to do this, the unused terminal can be used. You don't need the bakelite board anymore, move that connection to the unused (NC) terminal.

Yep. I assume the Bakelite board is cheaper then a double throw switch.

Also you need to have the green wires on the NO terminal.

I made you a pic. Use this for Williams and Sterns switches.

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That wire is actually green/red and yes it does connect there or the other side of the yellow wire.

Playball!!

Freeplay40's ramps are nice and smooth making for faster ramp speeds. You may need to use the next lighter plunger spring or adjust the first ramp switch a bit closer. The hideout kicking multiple times is because it thinks there is a ball and a broken switch. Once you sort out getting locks to the left hideout the rest will self correct.

Here is this one.

http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=A-4834-H

This one you will need to replace the contacts with new, or use a WPC flipper EOS switch parts and original parts to make a new switch.

Both work very well.

Did you check the fuse for the 50 volt coils? If this is good then you are missing the ground connection on the relays. Do you have led flashers installed?

Not that fuse, there is a single fuse in the back box for the 50 volt coils. See if it is burnt. The only reason I asked about the flashers was I wanted to know how you removed the warming resistor from the circuit.

Check for voltage.

Look at the top of the flipper power supply for the purple/yellow wire, check it for voltage.

How about a pic of the flipper power supply.

Is the jumper installed?

But this is a high speed not a Pinbot.

Why did you replace the original board? D-1 is the same as W-1 on the original board, I don't know what W-1 is used for on the replacement board with out seeing a diagram or the back of the board.

That still doesn't tell me what was wrong I'm the first place. And if you put the jumper back you may fix this problem.

Yes and sometimes all the way to the pops.

You need to put the jumper back in.

Do you have voltage at the coils?

They will never work with out power. Check for power on both sides of the fuse. If good then find the purple/yellow wire in the molex connector between the back box and play field. Check for voltage on both sides of the connector.

This is correct.

Did you see one of the 3 coils fire or lock on? These are computer controlled coils so the shouldn't have locked on when starting a game, you might have a couple of issues going on at the same time. You should check the diodes on the 3 coils for correct orientation and that they are not shorted. Also check the switches for the 3 coils to make sure that they aren't stuck shut.

Yes they are backwards. Both of those diodes are bad now and need to be replaced. Cathode always faces the power wire. For these 3 coils the power wire is purple/yellow.

This one is correct, so leave it alone.

Replace both hideout coil diodes with new in the correct direction and then replace the power fuse and all 3 coils should work then.

Playball!

Check these test points.

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Yes.

There should be no drop. You have a poor connection somewhere. Your bridge rectifier could be on the way out.

Yes 50 volts unregulated circuit comes out at @ 65 volts. No problems there.

When you connect that connector, you energized the flasher warming resistors. This small load should not have a effect if everything is correct. The power does not start at the power supply, just the fuse. The bridge rectifier is in the lower right corner of the back box. A bad cool diode will not cause this. This is a poor connection at the fuse, power supply connector, a dieing bridge rectifier, bad connector at the transformer or a poor solder joint.

Do the 50% rule. Start in the middle, then cut the half in half.

I would start with checking input to the bridge, 26 VAC. Good check the output, 34 VDC. Then jump to the fuse and check both sides, 34 VDC.

If you have a RD power supply, their connectors aren't very good.

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I'm sure you added the fuse on the AC input to the bridge during the rebuild. Check to make sure there is good contact with the fuse to the fuse holder. Also there is two molex connectors before the bridge, make sure both are seated well. I have seen a molex pin come free from the plastic and be pushed out of the connector a bit making a poor connection.

Those connections on the bridge rectifier need to be soldered not just crimped. Once you slide the spade connector onto the bridge terminal lug you need to solder it too.

So here's the math on this. AC voltage in X 1.414 for full wave rectifier - two P/N junctions for the diodes in circuit. .7 volt x 2.

You have 27.7 x 1.414 - 1.4 = 37.7.

Isolated is the same as no load, poor connections only should up when you place a load on the circuit. 168 ohm load that you are reading from the warming resistors is only a 0.22 amp load on a 35 amp bridge rectifier. This would not even drop the output 1 volt. You have a 30% drop in voltage with a minimal load.

This is low too, you just don't know about it because you installed leds. 14 X 1.414 - 1.4 = 18.4 VDC.
If You still had 68 #44 bulbs at .25 amp a piece, you would see a drop.

Yes.

Just solder up the connectors you replaced when adding the fuses and changing the bridges.

Do you hear the relay clicking during the coil test?

Do you have a voltmeter?

Using Pin-Pilot's pic of his very nice playfield, I have marked a few of the wires. If you were to remove the ground wire from the relay and touch it to the brown wire on the relay, does the relay click now?

59d11fbdb414a192ec03ee4c7fc0e9b4469d8e0f (resized).jpg

This is all there is in the manual. But all relays for high voltage coils are wired the same. Page 47.

relay (resized).PNG

Yep.

You see where the mistake is in the diagram for this circuit.

If the switch worked in test, then do a coil test to see if the outhole coil is working.

I can be, slow blow fuses have a filament similar to a light bulb. When power goes through the filament it heats up and expands which can cause it to fracture and have no current flow. With no current flow it will cool off and contract. The fracture may touch back together and spot weld itself because of the current flow. Then it will work for a while, but break during high current draw again.

Either the battery holder is damaged or D-2 on the CPU is bad.

Since both are switches aren't working I would think that the Green/Black wire is broken at these switches or the switch before these.

Yes.

In addition to checking the power wire like Pin-Pilot said, check the white switch activation wire for a break.

No 5 volts at pins 3 and 14 of U-46.

No ground inputs at pins 1,2,7,8,10 11 and 13 of U-46.

A bad U-46 chip.

With J-8 and J-10 removed, place game in switch test and then use a jumper wire on the header pins of the CPU. Connect J-10 pin 9 to J-8 pin 2.

Does the outhole switch #9 show up on the display?

outhole (resized).PNG

Good, this means the CPU is fine. Problem must be on the playfield.

Why? Your wiring/soldering looks just fine.

Since there are 2 green/red wires, this switch is somewhere in the middle of the 8. This means the green/red wires are good. Now since there is only 1 white/brown wire, this is the last switch of the 8. So your problem can be one of these, bad switch, bad diode, miss adjusted switch, bad connection of the white/brown wire at this switch or the previous switch or a broken wire. If you think everything with the switch is good, then hook up your jumper from the white/brown wire on the outhole switch to the white/brown wire of switch #25. Reconnect J-8 and J-10, then run the switch test again.

HS outhole (resized).PNG

This can mean the cpu has not booted or that a chip upstream is bad.

You can apply a low (ground) to one or more of these pins and segments of the 7 segment display should light. Each pin is one segment of the display.

Ok, so now you are down to a bad connection on the previous switch or a broken wire.

Playball!!

Hell no, I'm already a king!

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The 7447 chip is a BCD to seven segment driver chip. BCD is the way computers can count with just highs and lows. The 7447 chip converts the 4 BCD inputs to the seven segment outputs.

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That's what I'm thinking.

Have you tested the 4 GI fuses yet?

Did you install a socket for the 7447 chip? Is the cpu booting?

You could check the voltage of the blanking signal.

Yes, but if you are running led flashers you will need to disconnect the smaller resistor to keep the flashers from being stuck on at power up.

Have a friend help you.

Do you want this lighting to be interactive with game play or constantly on?

Then power it from a separate 12 volt power supply like this.

ebay.com link: AC 100 240V to DC 12V 2A Power Supply Adapter Heavy Duty LED Light Strip 24W SMD

Still face 6:00, but reversed.

I have moved the power wire for the service outlet to the switched side power. So I do leave mine plugged in permanently. I have done this to all my machines in the game room. Looks nice when they are all on.

What do you have set for adjustments 08 and 50?

Happy Turkey day.

Playball!!

I would remove the power supply from the back box and check for a cracked header pin solder joint on the large top connector.

Check this pin for a cracked header pin.

hsps (resized).PNG

Not needed for series wound.

Check the output of the power supply.

Speakers wires go to 1J15. Solenoid ground wires go to 1J13.

Find the bridge rectifiers in the lower right back box. Cut one of the blue wires and one of the red wires. Install a fuse holder in between the red wires and another fuse holder in between the blue wires. Install a 8 amp slow blow fuse in each holder.

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Yes.

Or random coils and lamps would lock on and melt down TIPs. Once the CPU has booted the blanking signal is active. This active blanking signal also goes to the decoding circuit for the seven segment display on the CPU.

blanking (resized).PNG

After booting correctly this should be a low.

U-43 555 chip makes the blanking signal. U-51 PIA chip pin 4 resets U-43 chip by way of U-36 and Q-50. If U-43 doesn't get reset at the correct intervals it will stay low disabling solenoids, displays and lamps. If U-43 is reset correctly the output will be high on pin 3.

Have you tested the reset circuit?

The reset circuit is active during power up. It is low for a specific amount of time then goes high. This reset pulse goes to a number of chips to to synchronize the timing of these chips. Connect your logic probe to the reset pin, then power on the game. Should read low for @ a third of a second then go high. If the pulse is too short or non existent, the CPU wont boot correctly. This reset pulse needs to be checked at all chips it goes to.

There are 4 in the back box.

If there are 2 grounds on the board, you need to keep them together when you remove them from the board.

Yes, but keep both wires twisted together with a wire nut.

If you look very careful you will see that they are not connected at the same spot on the terminal board.

If you follow the extra wire, where does it go to? Does it go to the switches on the upper loop?

Take both off and keep them together and put on a wire nut for insulation. Most likely Williams ran out of black wire towards the end of the day.

I didn't see where the manual showed 2 diodes. But I can tell you for certain it only needs one.

Could also be a bad diode on the switch.

Dirt.

Has the cpu board had acid damage?

You are correct in saying the bulbs are in pairs wired in series. So if one bulb burns out then neither bulb will work. So start by replacing both bulbs with known working bulbs. If you are using led flash bulbs, you need to insure the the lamp socket is wiring is polarity correct or they will not work. Also when you run a test for the flashers you need to run solenoid test (solenoid #22) and not a lamp test. During a game this flasher is controlled by the two roll over switches at the top of the game. If new bulbs don't work in solenoid test you can take a jumper wire with one end tied to the ground braid, touch the other end to the metal tab of Q-79. If they work with the jumper and not in test, you have a board issue. If they don't work in test or with the jumper you have a playfield issue.

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Your a fast learner!

The positive power for the top flasher bulbs is a pair of red wires on the left flash bulb socket. It needs to be on the center pin of the socket just like my pic except these are orange wires. The other wire should be a brown wire connected to the side terminal. This brown wire goes over to the right bulb socket and should connect to the center pin. The side terminal should have a light orange wire on it, it will go to the resistor board and connect to both resistors. A black wire will connect to the other end of the 330 ohm resistor. A blue/black wire will connect to the other end of the 5 ohm resistor. You will need to remove the black wire or lift one end of the 330 ohm resistor to keep the leds from staying lit all the time. If this is wired correctly then take your jumper wire and connect it to the ground braid and the other end you BRIEFLY touch it to the light orange wire, the flash lamps should light. If that works then touch the jumper to the blue/black wire. If they don't work then the 5 ohm resistor is bad.

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Since it didn't work when grounding, you either have a broken wire (orange or brown) or you don't have power on the red wire. Start by testing for power on the red wire. Then test the brown wire at the right lamp. Lastly test for power on the orange wire at the resistor.

Do you have a logic probe?

Yep.

This is the one I use.

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiQ3u2UupruAhXKU9UKHU5IBYIYABAGGgJpbQ&sig=AOD64_3pjAhou6DO1EGcaPm0x7RtY9a-VA&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwi03-WUupruAhWNGs0KHWmxBW8Q9aACegQIBxBC&adurl=

You will be poking at these parts. They are on the CPU board.

U-50 is a TTL level NOR chip. It's truth table is below. Zeros are lows and ones are highs.

Q-78 Is a signal transistor, part # 2n4401

Q-79 Is a Darlington Pair high current transistor. It actually is 2 transistors, 2 resistors and a diode in one package.

aaa (resized).PNG

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Sounds like a bad ribbon cable.

Yes this is a standard led bulb, it is used in the GI (general illumination). GI doesn't need non ghosting bulbs.

The lamp sockets are corroded or loose fitting. You can squeeze the sockets with pliers so the bulbs fit tighter.

There are 2 clips to connect, the black to ground just to the left of the battery holder and red clip to the 5 volt test point by the ram chip. Set the switch to TTL because that's the logic chips you will be testing. Now you can touch the pointed tip to places that needs testing. So if you place game in solenoid test, and lock it on solenoid #22. The machine will now turn on the enable signal ( U-50 pin 6) and also send a pulsed test signal to U-50 pin 5. The base of Q-78 needs a high signal to turn on. If you look at the truth table for a NOR chip you will see there is only one way to get a high output, you need to have both inputs low. Now with the machine in test, U-50 pin 6 should be low and pin 5 will be high with low pulses. When you test pin 4 you should get a low with a high pulse. If all this test correctly you know that U-50 is working. Then you move on to Q-78 and test. The pin out shows that the middle lead is the base, and if U-50 is working correctly there should be a low with high pulses at Q-78 base lead. If this is correct you move on to the base of Q-79. The pin out shows that the left lead is the base, If Q-78 is working it will have a high pulse going from the collector thru it and out the emitter to Q-79 base lead. If the base of Q-79 has a low with a high pulse on it then you know that Q-78 is working correctly. Lastly probe Q-79 collector while still in solenoid test, You should get a high signal with a low pulse on it. If you don't then the TIP 122 is bad. TIP 122s can be replaced with TIP 102s as they are 60% stronger.

Sounds like you are doing this correctly to me.

Did you have the game in solenoid test? On solenoid #22?

Try this again on a working coil for a logic probe test. Do solenoid #21 this time.

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Do you have the pulse/mem switch set to pulse?

When you check a different solenoid the pins on U-50 are different and so are the transistors.

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When you were on solenoid 21 test, was the lower pop bumper firing? Did you see the green/red arrows on the probe alternating while testing?

Now we are getting somewhere.

Start the solenoid test over again from the beginning, note down which solenoids don't work.

Ok, this is what I was thinking was going on. Lets go back one chip and do some more testing. Put the game back in solenoid test for #22. Find U-49 and tests pins 13 and 12. Both should be pulsing in test.

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Since the inputs for U-49 come from three different chips which I doubt all three are bad at the same time so I'm going to assume that U-49 is bad. If you had a pair of electronics mini shear cutters I would have you cut U-49 pin 13 in half. This would isolate U-49 from U-54. Then you could test the trace instead of the chip leg for the pulses.

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I see from you CPU pics that U-51 and U-54 are both in sockets, you could remove both chips and swap them. Then retest for pulses on U-49 as before. But you need to be very careful when removing and installing chips so you don't damage the chips or sockets.

So then U-49 must be bad. Are you capable of this type of repair?

Also have you tried the top flashers in a game? Just because they don't work in solenoid test doesn't mean they wont work during a game now that you fixed the bulb socket.