(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.

By lordloss

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 16 hours ago by R23HTC
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296 posts in this topic match your search for posts by Freeplay40. You are on page 2 of 2.
#2497 5 years ago
Quoted from Brewchap:

Hey Freeplay40. This is a quote from you on page 16. I was wanting to know how to adjust the micro switch. I'm thinking that I have one on the left ramp that is out of wack. It takes forever for it to kick the ball out a lot of times.

With a micro switch, if the mounting doesn't allow for adjustment, which I'm pretty sure this one doesn't, you adjust the micro switch by bending the wireform that the ball hits. There are actually two switches in each hideout....One is the micro switch on the side and the other is a rollover switch in the center/bottom of the hideout. It's been a long time since I had to trouble shoot, but I do recall that all of the switches associated to the hideouts (The two diverter switches under the ramp, and the 4 switches in the two hideouts) must all be checked for proper function and cleaned if rollovers, or the game can get confused. The only other possible cause I can think of is a near broken or poor solder on the micro switch.

1 week later
#2505 4 years ago
Quoted from Brewchap:

How is this attached? When I got this pin it was attached on top of the bracket for the stop light on the ramp. How is this suppose to be attached?
[quoted image]

You won't need that piece with the new ramp and it is missing on a lot of the games. Pretty sure it's function was to keep the ball from getting trapped under the original ramp. My ramp is a different shape on the up hill turn so ball cannot get under the ramp.

2 months later
#2604 4 years ago
Quoted from Andy_B:

Peekaboo![quoted image]

I once bought an Embryon for $300 and the guy said it wouldn't load the 2nd ball to the shooter. Knew I could figure it out. Easy fix....1 ball was hiding under one of the sling shots.

3 weeks later
#2643 4 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Gentlemen, I'm helping my neighbor with his high speed. Its in pretty sad shape, but apparently working. Needs flippers, coils rubber etc. told him I'd help him out, but when looking into the game more, it looks as though someone has placed all sorts of screws and posts in places they don't seem to fit. So I have to replace some and need to know the correct ones for each location. Anyone have this info? Manual didn't seem to provide. Thanks.

If you could post photos of the areas in question, I'm sure many of us can provide photos of those same areas.

4 weeks later
#2681 4 years ago

Maybe I'm the last to know, but have been chatting with monkfe who just purchased one of my clear ramps and he had said that CPR was going to do another run of High Speed playfields. I did not see any mention on the CPR site, so he double checked and received confirmation they will announce another run. Sweet!....I don't need one as I have already fully restored my High Speed with an earlier run of this playfield, but I know a lot of folks have been looking for one.

1 week later
#2693 4 years ago
Quoted from MANTO1975:

Hi guys, I purchased a high speed a few months ago and it is missing the rubber/rubbers up the front of the playfield below the ramp. not sure if it is meant to have 1 big rubber or 2 smaller ones, does any know this info and what size rubbers, als o how the hell do in install the new rubbers with the kickout shafts there, I had a look but not sure what needs to be removed and how.
cheers
Trevor[quoted image]

It is two big rubbers and they install around the diverter...They go behind the diverter plate.....between the wood back board and the back of the diverter.

2 weeks later
#2738 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Ordering is the easy part. Doing the play field swap will be the challenge for sure.

I did my High Speed. Wasn't too bad. Just don't trust some of the dimpling on the bottom as being ideal. Most notably, for the nine standup targets.....best to align those carefully, manually.

2 months later
#2874 4 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Freeplay40 ramp decals- been working with Mr_tantrum to develop these ramp decals for Freeplay's ramps...we also came up with one for under the ramp for that metal bracket that sticks out. Came out pretty sweet, designed it with the seam in the center if you dont want to remove your ramp switches, but its worth the effort to go the distance.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Steve Richie would be pleased. The road bed is exactly what Steve recommended when he posed for this endorsement photo...

SR2a (resized).jpgSR2a (resized).jpg
1 month later
#2939 4 years ago

Look what Santa brought me!

IMG_1594 (resized).JPGIMG_1594 (resized).JPGIMG_1603 (resized).JPGIMG_1603 (resized).JPGIMG_1604 (resized).JPGIMG_1604 (resized).JPG
1 week later
#2960 4 years ago
Quoted from PhilGreg:

Hey folks, I got a picture for a High Speed I'm checking out - it looked to me at first that this might be faded, but looking at other pictures on the internet I'm not so sure. What do you guys think?[quoted image]

Doesn't look bad to me. The only one I ever saw really faded, had a pinkish look to it.

3 weeks later
#3049 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

I am in the middle of my High Speed restoration. I am looking to replace the Playfield mounting brackets. I was able to find the part that attaches directly to the playfield but cannot find anyone that sells the other half that is attached to the inside cabinet. (see picture). Anyone know where I can find 2 of these brackets? Thanks. I have searched but cannot find any.
TIA[quoted image]

Are your pieces actual damaged? Few minutes on a buffer and they would shine like new.

1 month later
#3148 4 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Overall thoughts on powdercoating wire forms on HS? Mine aren't noticeably bad, although they haven't been polished either.. my guy brought up this color as a possibility.. Looks pretty slick imo.[quoted image]

Just my 2 cents... I have a fully restored High Speed. A friend of mine also has a very nice one. He had his wire forms re-chromed….I was very surprised at the difference from mine which were in good shape....but his looked awesome...On my to do list for sure.

#3173 4 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Seems good aside from the two flashers

I seem to recall that I had Flasher issues on my High Speed a few years ago. Also recall that they work sort of like the old Christmas tree lights....one bulb out and none light. All I did was replace bulbs.

1 week later
#3297 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

Anyone have any tricks to get the metal Stand off posts off of the plastics?
I have thought of using a drill to remove the bevel.
I have also thought of heating it a bit and getting them out that way.
I know there are plenty of smarter people here, what do you got for ideas ?

If you are not concerned about your plastics, put the tip of a soldering iron in the flared bell and that will heat the plastic so they can be pulled out intact.

#3319 4 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

albeit with a fairly hard pull that makes hitting the hideout difficult

Never be concerned about hitting the hide outs from the shooter.....it's not a skill shot....I think is scores like 10 pts!

1 week later
#3351 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Am I alone in thinking that adjusting the ramp switches is super annoying? I think I finally got them *okay*. Still not perfect. Blah

Definitely not the easiest. When ever I assemble a High Speed ramp, I make sure to clean and adjust the switches before shipping them out.

#3393 3 years ago

KSUWildcatFan just contacted me for a new clear High Speed ramp....That will be number 200!

Thanks to all!

#3416 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Sadly not [quoted image]

Better hurry and figure out those lights...you new ramp will be there Saturday!

#3425 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

No ramp today. BOO TO YOU, USPS!
Oh well, Monday.

At least it's in the right state!

#3431 3 years ago

I put a couple cheap red LED's under my clear ramp.

IMG_1604 (resized).JPGIMG_1604 (resized).JPG
1 month later
1 week later
#3666 3 years ago

That's a yea. I don't have that red post there though. Mine has a slender metal post.

#3671 3 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

What am I missing here? Anyone have a picture? And there’s a screw in the way for me to push on the latch. Thanks!
[quoted image]

Ahhh, the notorious diverter failure. That piece was originally crimped in place and has just come off from repeated "diverting". What I would suggest it to take the whole assembly (so you will have good alignment) to a good welder and have him weld that bracket back on the shaft. Don't know what to tell you about the screw, unless that was some sort of band-aid.

1 month later
#3743 3 years ago

Here's my back glass with Steve Richie endorsing my new clear ramp!

Back Box LED's (resized).JPGBack Box LED's (resized).JPGSR2a (resized).jpgSR2a (resized).jpg
4 months later
#4074 3 years ago
Quoted from EStroh:

If you make your own you can get them all to match.
[quoted image]

This is where I bought some years ago. I used the one on the top of the page and then printed photos like the flyers from the Internet Pinball Database.

https://www.picturasupply.com/photo-novelties-catalog/clear-plastic-snap-in-photo-key-chains.html

3 weeks later
#4129 3 years ago
Quoted from nvu4prod:

You might want to try loosening the 4 screws inside the cabinet on the shooter housing. Adjust the housing to the right for a more centered position with the pinball. Might be worth a try before attempting to sand the trough. Good Luck!!

I had my High Speed at the NW Pinball Show several years ago when I introduced my new clear ramp. Steve Richie was at the show and I asked him to stop by and see the new ramp. He asked to see it right away. Just the difference in the level of the machine at the show vs at my home, created a shooter problem similar to what you are experiencing.....if you open up your machine and then lift up on the right side, you will see the effect this has on the alignment of the shooter rod in relation to the center of the ball. This can be adjusted by loosening the shooter housing and then adjusting....

Sorry for the long story, but the end of the story is the best part. Steve Richie said, "you now how we fixed that at the factory?....2 by 4 and a big hammer!"

Good luck!

2 weeks later
#4248 3 years ago

You will need a new 4 pin plastic plug (.093)...

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=03-09-2042

Some new crimp connectors...Cheap...order extra!

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=02-09-2103

And of coarse you need a tool...

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=W-HT-1919

Other info...

The crimp connectors shown above are the pieces that go into a " plug". If this was an in-line connection, the other piece it plugs into is call a receptacle. The receptacles use these crimp connectors...

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=02-09-1104

Personally I order bunches of this crimp connectors to have on hand as well as the 2, 3, 4 and 5 pin plugs and receptacles.

#4253 3 years ago

Never done NVRAM, but doesn't it take a while to charge? Engine sound but no game start??? Balls in the trough?

3 weeks later
#4422 3 years ago

Absolutely correct on Williams getting those connectors backwards. There are two options short of the pin extractor... You can remove the switch stacks from the switch brackets or there are 6 phillips screws that hold the back board onto the playfield...3 screws on each side of the diverter mechanism. If you remove the three on the right side of the playfield and loosen the three on the left...then give the back board a little rap as it is probably paint stuck, you will then have enough room to get that harness plug up through the playfield. I recommend popping the backboard loose route. If you go with removing the switch stacks, they will of course have to be reinstalled the same way.... much easier to do a nice adjustment on the switches is everything is removed with the ramp.

1 month later
#4511 3 years ago
Quoted from The_Great_Man:

RAMP/DIVERTER QUESTION: I have owned my HS for a year and it works pretty good. The one issue I have from time to time is with the ramp/diverter switches. They usually work ok and the first ramp ball goes down the right hideout and the 2nd ramp ball goes down the left hideout and there is a rotation after that. But sometimes the ball will go up the ramp fast and the Ramp Gate/Diverter will not activate at all and the ball will just come out by the upper flipper. I assume this is because the switches under the ramp are not adjusted properly. (Someone please tell me if my assumption is wrong).
I know - I think - that there are 2 switches under the ramp (42 and 43) and these activate the ramp gate solenoid (13). I do not understand how these 2 switches are connected. I assume switch 42 does not work on the first ramp shot and 43 activates the gate. Then on the next ramp ball, switch 42 activates the gate. Can someone please tell me how these switches are connected so they know how to work together?
Also if my ball goes up the ramp and does not activate the gate assembly - I assume one of my switches needs to be adjusted a little closer....Is that correct?
I know there has been a lot written and discussed on this issue and I have spent plenty of time reading it all but I still have questions.

Possibly adjustment or possibly dirty....

11 months later
#5166 2 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I'm looking for advice on which coil stop to use on HS. I recently noticed a difference with the coil stop protrusion distance between different part numbers all though all are for sys11 games. When I ordered stops from PBL they didn't have the A-10280 which the manual calls for. I ordered A-10821 and the core plug is shorter then the old coil stops. I realized that this will cause more rotation of the flipper bats which may or may not me a good thing.
I went to PBR's website to see is they had the A-10280 and they also do not list it as a sys11 part. But in the notes I learned that there are 3 different sizes for the core plug(stop) and they explain this in the flipper page section. So the A-12390 is the tall, which is what I "think" was in the game, then the A-12111 is the medium and the A-10821 is the short one, which is what I have on hand but reluctant to use. I had the short one in a different HS upper flipper and the ramp shot seems to be more difficult.

Shows in stock at Marco...

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-10280

2 weeks later
#5202 2 years ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

Could use a new ramp traffic light, mine has electrical tape holding it together.

Check out RobF here on Pinside. Makes an awesome plug and play vertical stop light for High Speed...

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1252-robtune-

2 weeks later
#5243 1 year ago

Agree that Rob's light is awesome.... I had repositioned my original light to the left rear corner, but have purchased a second one to replace the original one in the back left corner

#5249 1 year ago
Quoted from Gtbuff:

Last resort.. I may be out of the club if I can't figure this out.
Resets every time going into multi-ball. checked power, switches, started shotgun replacing parts and still the same.
Might even help if i could figure out the logic of how multi-ball works.
Also looking for someone in my area (Macomb/Michigan) with a HS that might be willing to test in another machine.

When I first got into pinball, I found a good deal on a High Speed. This was long before I learned how to troubleshoot and repair them. When I went to purchase the game, I of course played it and found that it too was resetting....Resulted in the price being lowered. When I got the game home one of the first things I did was to rebuild the flippers with the newer style coils. Long story short, after I rebuild the flippers it never reset again. Just guessing the reason for the resetting was likely just a bad diode in this case.

4 weeks later
#5340 1 year ago
Quoted from jibmums:

My black plastic traffic light is a mess and I'd like to replace it with something more similar to the upright yellow ones pictured on the playfield; must come with lamp bases/wiring and plug into the same connector. Suggestions?

Contact RobF here on Pinside for his plug and play new style stop light.

IMG_1594 (resized).JPGIMG_1594 (resized).JPGIMG_1603 (resized).JPGIMG_1603 (resized).JPG
#5342 1 year ago
Quoted from jibmums:

I like the looks of that! What kind of bulbs does it take, it doesn't look large enough to fit three 44's or 555's in there.

No bulbs...has LED's

Comes with mounting screw to attach to post.

4 months later
#5475 1 year ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Need a new motor but don't wish to pay $80? look no further. $24
amazon.com link »
1) Take unit apart and throw out dome.
2) Take factory unit apart and throw out everything but the steel base plate and wiring.
3) Trim plastic base of Amazon lamp till it fits hole in cab, attach to original HS steel base plate.
4) Transfer old bulb to new assembly.
5) Install in cabinet.
6) Take an old bridge rectifier and install between cab wiring and lamp. This will change the 24VAC to DC voltage so the new DC motor will work.
Enjoy!
[quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

My High Speed was missing the beacon when I bought it. Did the same thing to mine about 7 years ago....still working perfectly!

4 months later
#5572 1 year ago

Thanks for the input. Also do you know what these are for (circled in red)?

It's just one of those things that "is". Might have been placed to keep the ball from being trapped under the wire form ramp.

2 weeks later
#5605 1 year ago
Quoted from Tsunami:

I bought a CPR gold for my HS about 8 years ago and I'm am very happy and no issues.

Mee too, for the most part. The only issue I had with mine was that the dimples were not really very accurate. In CPR's defense, they probably matched them to a donor playfield and the holes were not perfectly aligned from initial production. I found this mostly on the standup targets. I realigned those before drilling. I did two High Speed playfield swaps and both turned out great.

6 months later
#5758 6 months ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:

Edit: found one of the entrance - just need some pics of the metal tab on the right - mine is missing.

Here you go...I'm assembling one right now, so just polished this one.

Height 1 1/8"
Width 1/2"
Vertical hole center is 3/8" up from bottom
Bottom hole center is 1/4" from ramp side of vertical

IMG_1851 (resized).JPGIMG_1851 (resized).JPGIMG_1852 (resized).JPGIMG_1852 (resized).JPG
1 month later
#5798 5 months ago
Quoted from STLOkie:

Freeplay40 is selling replacement ramps. He can do black, clear or red.

Actually, I don't do it in black...Just clear and transparent red!

1 month later
#5867 4 months ago
Quoted from R23HTC:

Trying to replace the broken rubbers up top. Can anyone confirm the back board has to be removed? 3 sets of screws each side?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yes...Remove the 6 screws. The back board might also be "paint stuck"....A little rap and it will come loose.

1 week later
#5919 4 months ago
Quoted from Crimcyan:

Going to be replacing plastics, are there any nicer standoffs I could use instead of these riveted metal ones?
[quoted image]

How about these?

https://www.robtune.com/product/tree-trunk-spacers/

4 weeks later
#6006 3 months ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

Dominated the Christmas guests!
[quoted image]

Good game! I have only turned over the score (10m) twice. On one of the games I got three jackpots on the first ball!

3 weeks later
#6079 67 days ago
Quoted from R23HTC:

Okay. Now to tackle my next 2 issues (which I believe are all that’s left at the moment).
1. I get an adjust switch 51 & 52 on start up and when entering test mode. These are the Star rollovers and initially worked, but haven’t for a while now. I didn’t think it was the board as they are tied to the left and right kicker and they were working. What I found out today was, while the kickers work, they DON’T register in the switch test. I checked the wire continuity from the playfield to the plug. Doesn’t appear to be a short. So from my limited learning, I believe this is tied to Q42. Can someone advise on testing this? This appears to be a different “driver” than the 2N4401 I have from the other repair. I believe these are 2N3904 (any upgrades?)
2. My final issue (for now) is all the light bulbs in column 1 of the Lamp-Matix Table do not work. I’ve verified all bulbs are good and wire continuity from the playfield to the plug. This appears to be controlled by Q66 (a TIP42?) Doing a diode test it matches the rest. IF I read then Schematic correctly, the driver for this is Q65 (a SR17?). If anyone can verify what I’ve found is correct, and possibly the correct way to test these.
My Outhole repair has held up and is still working. I believe I may have to replace the eject hole and knocker driver and transistors as they intermittently stop working, but after tackling the Outhole, they shouldn’t be an issue. After changing out the 7408s. As long as the 2 previous aren’t acting up, all my solenoids are working.
Slowly but surely getting it there. [quoted image][quoted image]

So, I am in no way an expert like GRUMPY or DumbAss (I prefer to refer to Dumbass as Victor!) I am amazed by the knowledge of both of them. Reading some of your post, you say you have some things/features that work intermittently. My experience is that transistors either work....or they don't! With all my games, I painstakingly replace all board pins and rebuild the connectors. Before I would go changing transistors, I would identify the associated board plug and try reseating it to see if that has any effect on whether the features work. If it does, well then, time to rebuild the plugs and pins!

Just my 2 cents...

1 week later
#6112 60 days ago
Quoted from R23HTC:

I do not like this style of Molex pin and will eventually end up replacing them.

Anyone feel free to correct me, but the decision to use the IDC connectors by Williams was simply for efficiency and they do not hold up as well. These types of plugs have a recommended life of like 25 plug and unplugs.

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