@Grumpy. There seems to be a problem with the sound roms at about 1:05 of the video. Might want to check that out.

Does anyone else have this aftermarket beacon?

I bought a HS last summer and it came with it, but I never bothered messing with it. Now I would like to put it in. It seems like it should just wire into place, but I would have to either get a plug or cut the other one off.

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Grumpy, don't know if I'm that talented but I'm going to have to try it. It's just too cool.

Not that hard, if there is enough interest I can't post some detailed pics.

Pics would be great. I found some of the 12" scanning LED strip on ebay but didn't see any that operated as a pair the way yours look like they're doing. Also you say you tied into pinball's flasher, not on all the time? Sorry for all the questions, kinda a mod newbie.

I tied into the flasher power circuit so I wouldn't have to run wires back to the power supply. The led strips are on all the time when the pin is powered up.

I used basic 12 volt led strips, one red and one blue. Cost @ a dollar per foot. This whole mod only cost me seven dollars. I also did this so I can put it back without damage.

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Love how you made the mod reversible. I was going to try to do the same. I'm fortunate that my HS is a super clean HUO. I feel stupid but now I can't figure out what kind of flasher board you used. I was looking on ebay at knight rider style or back and forth style boards and they want like $50.

ebay.com link: itm They have gone up a dollar since I got mine a year ago.

I got mine a year ago for three dollars and free shipping.

Parts list.

12" 12 volt 5050 red 60 led per meter strip.
12" 12 volt 5050 blue 60 led per meter strip.
5 gallon paint stir stick cut to the correct width and length.
Flasher circuit board from Ebay.
LM7812 regulator.
22uf 50 volt electrolytic cap.
Heat sink for the regulator.
18" 22ga red wire.
4 burnt out #44 bulbs.
Hot glue.
2 #6 wood screws.

To mount the led strips I removed 3 bulbs on each side, then I took four burnt bulbs and broke the glass out. I removed the entire filament so there wouldn't be a short, and filled the bulb base with hot glue. When the hot glue cools down insert the bulb bases into the outter and inner lamp sockets on each side. Use a razor knife to cut two paint sticks to a width a little wider than the led strip. Also cut the the sticks to the correct length. Now add some hot glue to the bulb bases and attach the wood strip to each side. Once you have the flasher board from ebay completed, you wont need there leds and remote led boards. You just need the wires with the connectors to solder to the led strips. Make sure to get the polarity correct or the leds wont light. I then removed the #89 flasher sockets to install the led wires and hot glued the leds strips to the wood strips. When that had cooled I reinstalled the #89 flasher sockets. This is easy so far!!!!

Here is a pic of the circuit board installed next to the flasher resistors. Since I'm using Led flash bulbs I don't need the ground wire on the warming resistors. If you look carefully you will see that I cut off the ground wire from the resistor board to use for the ground of the power supply. I can always reattach it later if I want restore it to original. If you love your incandescent flash bulbs, then don't cut the ground wire just add a new black wire to the terminal with the two black wires. Mount the circuit board with a #6 screw and a plastic spacer to the insert board. Then plug in the led strips to the circuit board.

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The first pic shows you where to hook up the red power wire. That is the left #89 flash socket, make your connection to the red wires. The second pic show how to wire the 12 volt regulator and cap. The cap is an electrolytic so polarity is a must. There you have it, a 3 hour easy project that is cheap and looks great.

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Oops my pics are backwards.

I have some new plastics if anyone is interested, don't need them anymore. first 40.00+ship. takes them!

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Could someone post a very clear photo of the connectors and the wiring for the power supply? Mine were soldered directly to the board and while I a repinning them and using a new connector, I'm not sure which wires go where.

Thanks

Hope these help.

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MJW, That's perfect! What really had me confused is I have two yellow wires but now I see looking at the photo that it was originally one wire looped into the same slot.

Thanks!

Thanks so much for the details on your mod Grumpy! I am ordering my parts now. Already thinking of using these parts to mod other games too, maybe flashing lights on police force backglass.

Let me know what you come up with as I have a Police Force also. I added a flashing lamp at the end of the gun barrel. The flashing lights on the police car in the back box could use something better.

Just picked up a HS today! In pretty good shape too! I see the police car mod on all the regular sites but where can I find the cool red sports car mod? Or is that just a hot wheele's car people throw on there?

Nice to see the love for HS! I haven't gone through all 30 pages on this topic yet, but lots of good gems from what I've seen.

My question is regarding the ramp shot. I find that the initial shots from the shooter lane hit the ramp about 20% of the time, but mostly they just bounce off the lower post. I'm not quite sure what can be adjusted, other than the table incline and maybe the shooter rod spring (currently using recommended red 10-148-2 spring). Anyone else with this issue?

Tried getting the glue off my PF the other weekend with flour, naptha, paper towels soaked in it...didn't budge. This is as annoying as advertised.

what about flour and 90% alcohol?

Yep I tried that first, then switched to Naptha & paper towels. I'm thinking aboot some gasoline and a match...has that been tried before?

EDIT: I did not have an actual plastic scraper, and was using a credit card...so hopefully that will help some.

It's definitely a pain, no matter the pin

High Speed needs a really strong spring, but that's probably not your issue. Under the plastic right where the ball exits the shooter lane...before it crosses the playfield...is an adjustment you can make to the trajectory.

Ah great! Yeah, the red spring is the really strong one... but now I want to rush home and find that adjustment. Thanks!

As an additional FYI on this, I had to also bend the bracket where the screw goes into the playfield as the ball still hit the post. You will probably have to play with it until you can get it to go up the ramp consistently.

Goo Gone gel works great.

For me it was a simple adjustment of the top metal rail out of the plunger lane, there is actually 2 screws one that is on a slider bracket and the other locked into place. Heres a pic

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What happened to mine was that the tab holding the screw in was bent back in such a way that no matter how much back and forth I adjusted it, it was still off and either hit the post or wouldn't make it up the ramp. I had to bend that until the rail was closer to perpendicular. My plunger has a green spring in it and it works quite well.

Yes i have a hard red spring and it will almost shoot it so fast it will sometimes run so fast over the switches the diverters wont catch the ball I don't think you need a crazy spring.

I would like to know if on peoples kick out, if it will kick the ball up to the top of the freeway lane and drop back down to the ramp flipper that is what mine does or will it kick it up all the way into the pop-bumpers? I'm not sure if I need to replace my coil, personally I love it cause I know I will make a ramp shoot every time lol.

Mine does the same as yours: kicks up to the upper right lane, but not around the loop into the pops.

I think that is pretty normal. Once in a while mine will get over the top and fall into the bumpers. Same on my friends game too.

1/2 the time around to the pop bumpers, the rest of the time just short so it rolls back to the upper flipper. This is with the correct coil replaced.

Has anybody thought about trying to replace the stop lamp target switches with drop targets like on the prototype? I cant think of a way to get the coil to reset each one once it's knocked down without programming modification? I would like to use a Williams bank, the only thing I can think of is bridging it to a pop bumper or something to fire the coil, any ideas would be cool?

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Is this drop assembly something that you are going to use. What you need is a contact closing for each drop wired in series to fire a TIP 102. Take power from pop coil and ground it thru the TIP 102. No programing is needed. If you need more details give me a pm.

Yes that was the bank I was planning on using but I just found this sys 7 style looks even friendlier with leaf switches!

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This is what you will need, you can add additional contacts to each drop. Will it fit????? Can you find enough????????

Last but not least no pink drops on High Speed!

lol I was just looking at Marco for drop target color variations, Ok i think I got it so all I really need is a drop target bank where each target has two switches right, one for the computer target signal and another for a (6v?) series circuit to the tip102 to fire the ground for the coil real cool man thanks!

I think the first style may be better it has 4 contacts per drop and 2 pretty clear switch tracks, I think I will work!

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What you have there is 2 no/nc switches. This will work for what you want.

Ok great so first set would be the target voltage then as it moves down to the next set for the tip102 series circuit voltage perfect! Thanks for your advice man totally a novice here lol What voltage would you recommend running in the tip102 circuit to energize it? Is it ok to run the tip 102 circuit in parallel cause i would like each target to reset instantly instead of waiting for all 3 to be down to reset, I can use blocking diodes?

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Now that I see that it has a horseshoe wiper, this is not as I expected. Use the other drop assembly with the separate contacts.

Yuck, drops on HS?

gmkalos Would the horseshoe contacts end up on the inner pair in the down position? Or would it be 1st and 3rd? Also does it land on the very top two contacts with the holes in the up position?

It should work fine, it looks like the first set of contacts do nothing when the drop is in the up position, then it hits the 2nd set for the target scoring then the 3rd set at the bottom is wired in series to activate the coil, i just need it to reset every time one target goes down. This is awesome I'm psyched!!!