My 2 cents. If it isn't smoking or the playfield horribly damaged, make sure the balls are relatively clean and play. Only way you are going to find out what is wrong. Then make a list of the obvious things that you want to update. LED's, rubbers, weak flippers etc... Then go through the check list. Take lots of pictures so you can put it back together. Be advised that no matter how careful and closely you look at things, you will miss something or break something putting it back together or change your mind. Book mark your suppliers. You WILL order several times.

I've been working on mine for about 6 weeks now, off and on. Getting ready to put the playfield back into it and fire it up. Praying for no smoke or sparks and lots of bright lights.

Do what MOF says, there is nothing like owning a perfect....and safe game!

Thanks for the link and the tips. So far, I've adjusted a switch (upper left hidehout - plays better now), went through the diagnostics and found the upper flashers aren't working (haven't tried to fix yet), the second ramp gate diverter wasn't working and found the connector plate came off the bottom, and moved some washers on the hinge of the lightboard so the displays line up better through the backglass. I wiped it down with a microfiber cloth, but haven't applied any chemicals yet. I'll get those when I make my order for parts.

I'll tell you what man. Got a new pin and it wasn't working and it was more motivation to do the work. I would say play until your fingers bleed, but if you do that, you may lose motivation to fix things. I say play a little bit here and there but focus on fixing. Just my opinion.

Fired it up. Looked good. Started to play and flippers went dead. Blew the fuse on the flipper board. Before I put another one in, I checked everything else. All good except left and right hide out coils don't fire either. Are those coils associated with the flipper board?

I'm not going to do my swap (don't worry I'll still have a High Speed) so I've listed my CPR gold in the marketplace if anyone is interested. Thanks

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/ad/25431

Hello all! I'm in need of the slingshot crank arms... I replaced the old ones with WPC style ones and didn't even realize the difference in how they are extended to actuate the leaf switch under the sling mechs.... Does anyone have some old beat up ones they can get rid of??

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-9463

I don't need the whole assembly this is only for reference. PLEASE HELP!! I'm so close to finishing this...

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High speed is a great pinball machine and I can see why some would not change a thing but I couldn't help myself. I have always loved the flow, gameplay, and voices of High Speed but was never a fan of the background music…so I changed it. In fact, I modified it to play a different tune with each ball in play. I also added some additional sound effects like a car crash sound when the ball drains and short sound-bites when the ball hits specific targets. I also changed the topper light to a modern-day LED police look and totally redesigned the speaker panel with a transparent acrylic that has inlaid speakers and a visual equalizer. Many other mods can be seen in the video including a key start, RGB lights, special LEDs, car with game-triggered headlights, gear-shift plunger etc.. Oh…I also changed the cabinet art to personalize it. Still more break-out mods to come…I really like the triggered LCD TV posted in this thread…I have not cracked the code on that mod yet.

Wow...That's a pretty impressive High Speed! Um, All I can think that it needs is.....THIS!

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I agree. It's on the list. Wish list:
- clear ramp
- playfield protector
- Micro LCD for playfield
- Helicopter with motorized propellers
- chrome plated coin door, rails, and lockdown bar.

I need to find the sources for all of the above.

All that and then I'm done

For the ramp...It's me!

Hey gang, mods for the stop signal now available here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-high-speed-hs-stop-light-mod#post-2719476

Ramp decals coming soon for both clear and black ramps

I'll take one of each

Just joined the club a few days ago! Relocating the traffic light as we speak lol!

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There's a stop light on eBay right now

ebay.com link: itm

I have one of the clear ramps. It looks great and it plays great. The question I have is what are you guys doing filling the space under the ramp on the left hand side? There are 2 lights back there and no matter what color bulb I put in, they stick out like a sore thumb. I was thinking some sort of ground decoration but there isn't s lot of head room to place things under the ramp. What sort of thongs have you guys done?

I'm waiting on the ramp decals to be made....Hopefully, that'll happen soon.

Can post a pic so I can see it? I am considering buying one of these ramps. I am hoping the price comes down. Looks like it starts at $90.

It won't.

Here's the thread. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-clear-ramp

Unless you can rivet, you need to buy it assembled. It is worth the extra couple of bucks. I like the traffic light being up front. Added an extension to one if the posts. Looks like it belongs there.

Freeplay40 is a great guy. For me it was well worth the money to send the parts to him and let him do the riveting.

I drilled out the rivets, from the parts on the old ramp and shipped them to him. He polished my ramp parts and then installed them on the new ramp.

Yup and if anyone other then a Pinsider were making and selling this you'd spend WAY more money.

He even helped me out with a part that I didn't know my ramp was missing.

If you were to wait on Starship Fantasy to do these...you'll be here for a while.

Top notch work from FreePlay40

That too and it wouldn't be an improved version too, just the same old black plastic one.

80's Tyco HO scale slot car, gutted and lit up with a red 4 led CT!

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I've got a big project on my hands a High-Speed playfield swap and tips would be greatly appreciated. I am lucky to have a the sweet clear ramp from Mark and a CPR plastics set! Just waiting on that wonderful vertical Stop Light mod from pinball_customs!

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https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/playfield-swap-guide

This references a High Speed PF swap.

-mof

Sick dude thanks for posting that MOF!!!

Sure man, needless to say -- it made my second PF swap a breeze. Have a plan. Prepare in every way you can.
-mof

WOW, that new playfield looks good. I need one for mine.

Has anyone seen one of the restored playfields that are sanded down to bare wood, and then ink printed to the prepped surface?

I have a totally worn out playfied, and the one currently in my HS has damage from removing the mylar.

Same thing here! My mylar pretty much had to come off, I heated it and went slow, there was nothing I could do!!! It still pulled the paint. I'm going to try to repaint mine with an airbrush. I ordered the inserts and just got them Monday. I couldn't find the blue curved inserts, I might try to make those. They look simple enough to make with a little time.

In Dallas Ga,....

Here's some pics....It looks a lot worse after I scrubbed the glue off. It's also completely stripped of everything right now. Down to just the play field board. The bad part is, and I'm still debating what to do. I don't have a compressor or the place here to spray 2 part clear. I'm thinking about using it out of a spray can. I hate to do it, but it's my first rebuild, and I really don't want to buy all that stuff yet(for a couple of reasons). I recently moved here and don't know any one with a spray booth or shop here. I'm going to work with what I have on this first one just to see how it turns out.

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I'm curious, are you going to restore the paint before you clear coat it?
Looks like you have quite a bit of work ahead of you before you cc it, but maybe someone smarter than me could chime in?

Definitely! Here is the plan of attack....After reading a few threads and working in a body shop in the past, makes sense to me. I want to clean and sand the real bad areas, bare wood, set my inserts,then clear(vids thread explains how it locks down what is left of the paint,and it made sense after seeing how fragile it is) scuff and start masking and painting one section at a time. repairing things as I go.put my words and numbers on my inserts and clear again. There is a lot more involved, I know, that's just the basic plan. It's my first attempt. I'm not afraid of it though. I still have some things to work out, and might skip a few details on this first one. This is a low budget type thing. Just seeing what I can do with what I already have for tools and to see if I can do it well enough to justify buying more tools and supplies. It will take me a while, I'm in no hurry.

I just reread my last posts, I wasn't real clear on what I was getting at. While thinking about how I was going to do this? My first problem was what clear I was using and how I was going to do that. If I wanted to spend the cash on this first one? Not knowing if It is something I can even do well. So, to answer your question directly, Yes, I'm going to clear after cleaning it up and before I paint. Then clear a couple of times after it's all painted

That's sounds like a good plan, if you clear it you can always get an overlay later and tint it on and re-clear it, altho yours seems like it will touch up nicely. I had the same dilemma with the mylar as well no amount of freeze spray, alcohol and flour could have saved it any better cause of the clodhopper who installed it over crappy touch-ups lol. If i did not get this CPR playfield in the deal I would have just done a overlay and clear coat.

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The spots that are worrying me are where the little dots are in the color fade areas. I think I could duplicate that with a lot of time. I might cut corners there. Not sure it's worth it to me to make it exact. Spending that kind of time on the dots for the fade is just insane, even though I think I could do it. This is just for fun! The game is cool but not all that rare, so I thought it would be a good one to practice on.

I might be wrong, but I dont think you can clear coat an overlay, it'd be like clear coating mylar

So I finally started up my HS after replacing the broken ramp. Game is functional except the beacon light and motor (wires are cut). There is also a buzzing sound that comes from the speakers when in attract mode that waves with the lights. The voices and game play sounds are ok. It seems there may be some interference from the lights. Any Ideas on what that could be? I have not done any of the caps yet as this was just to see what was wrong with it. Very little I'm glad.

Had the same problem with sound and lights..... The speakers were strobing/buzzing(?) with the movement of the lights. It was loud too! I also had my boards out, maybe it was a connection, or a ground. When I put them back in and hooked everything up, the buzzing was gone. I still have no music. So, not sure if that is related.

Try your grounds, and wiggling your connections to see if it helps or changes anything. Make sure all your screws are in your boards and snug. Might be a little corrosion somewhere. These are newbie guess's!

Also, The grease in my top light was dried up and full of filth in the motor gear section of it, so it was unplugged on my machine too. If your mechanical, and careful, you can take that apart and clean it. The crimps on the cast metal holding the thin plate are a little tricky, so find a way to bend them out or if you don't care, you can grind the little crimped area carefully with a dremel. You can crimp it back after cleaning and new grease the metal is fragile don't bend more than you have to. That's saying it moans when you plug it in and locked up from filth and dried grease. Mine sounded like a short and wasn't spinning.

That was supposed to be an edit, not another post. Oh well....

Does anyone have a good source for 5" rubber rings for the back? Think I've found some at action pinball but was hoping to score a pair in red. Thanks!

On a related note to the previous. There is supposed to be 2 5" in the back, but the posts on mine only have a single slot for rubber. Are they supposed to be "uneven" or do I have the wrong posts? Perhaps someone could post a pic.

I don't have one but there's one in here somewhere.

http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Whridlsoncestood/library/Pinball%20Restorations/High%20Speed?sort=3&page=1

http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Whridlsoncestood/library/Pinball%20Restorations/High%20Speed/Teardown?sort=3&page=1

I may have some. Lemme check.

Yep I've got a bunch. Sending you a pm

Mine were routed wrong and made the deflectors not work at all. Wrap them around the black backboard. They should be metal posts. Don't worry about them being a little off.

As mentioned, it could be a grounding issue.

Make sure that all your boards in the backbox have all their screws. This is one way the boards are grounded. Also check to make sure there are no breaks in the grounding braid that runs through the backbox, lower cabinet, and under the playfield.