Have you gotten yours installed yet??

Have you gotten yours installed yet??

You mean some "MORE" HS owners very happy.

Mark,
I now have room in the garage now the 54 caddie is gone. It will be some time before I will be ready to install the ramp. Here is the current state of my HS. Does anyone have any scans of the insert graphics as I will need to make some water slide decals or does anyone recommend the decals (non Mylar) from BAA. I have been fixing inserts, the shooter lane, and drop hole. I need to build a paint booth and shoot my first clear coat then start touching everything up.

HS 9-27-14.jpg

I know slow going but that is why it is a hobby

Yeah I am not sure what happened around that sling shot, It looked good when I bought it...
Then I started to go over the play field and the mylar was coming up there and looked like someone tried to use super glue or something at one point in time to repair it. The damage was done so decided to rip the band-aid (mylar) off and see what I had to work with. I cannot complain I got it for $900 and the cabinet is in really good shape and the game is (was) fully functional....
I was thinking of buying the decals from BAA, worst case I scan them to make my own if they don't work out. I have a F-14 setting next to the HS, I play it when I am in between working on the HS play field.

I too have a HS sitting right next to a F14. To me, they're like sister games.

As for your decals, if you can take a photo of a good insert you can upload an image to http://www.myfonts.com/WhatTheFont/

The site will tell you what font it is, and if you have a copy of Photoshop or other imaging software, you can make your own insert decals. That's what I am going to do, when I get my inserts leveled.

I feel like my High Speed is rather dark. I've got mostly incandescents throughout, with some (not that awesome) LEDs installed before I got it. Also, the lights are out on the pops, so I need to fix those.

Any suggestions for brightening it up a bit? Anyone use spots? And if so, where?

Yes. Check my restore thread for pics. Page 4.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-restoration/page/4
-mof

I'm a big fan of cool white LED's and did all the GI in mine. Much brighter and very crisp looking...Did the back box all in colored LED's as well.....and the clear ramp really brightens up the game. I also opted for clear red pop covers with LED's. Need to figure out how to get a spotlight on the center spinner.

The San Diego Freeway spinner? Forget a spot light use a strip of 3/4 or 1in wide polished stainless steel, cut to the length of the spinner bracket, stick a Comet led strip (cut to however many leds you want for brightness) to the underside of the ss piece along the front edge and hot melt the part of the ss piece that doesn't have the led strip to the top of the spinner bracket with the led strip facing forward or backward your choice. That's what I would do. Something like this.
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Good idea using LED. On my list of to do's!

I picked up a lightly beaten HS last Friday and my first of the many questions I'll have as I put it back together is, I've turned the rheostat all the way down but it's not that low. How can I get the volume lower? TIA for any advice.

Vince

Can someone please tell me where this piece goes?
image.jpg

...... I give up.

If freeplay40 doesn't know, you are hosed.
I plan to do my PF swap over xmas break -- I'll let you know then
=)
-mof

I picked up a set of stencils from Marco, but they lack registration marks. Can anyone provide me with some basic x/y measurements for the white and red. Even if I can just get a rough idea how far up from the base of the cab to start my white would be fantastic. Many thanks in advance

I just went through the same problem on an Eight Ball. What I did was to shine a light up through the stencils on a play field glass to align them to each other. I snipped notches into the corners of the stencils where the legs cover them. That way you at least have a reference when doing the second colour on the cabinet. Even then I found I had to roughly apply the second stencil check alignment and adjust things, at least I had a reference. I found the twistedpins stencils were good quality but not well thought out in terms of colour order and they had no overlaps, everything had to be perfectly aligned.

Believe it is a spacer that goes between the micro switch for the eject hole and the playfield.

Thanks, it's super frustrating. Not to mention the color sequence seems to be in reverse of what others have done White -> Red -> Yellow instead of Yellow -> Red -> White. I just took a look at Jim's restoration thread from a year and a half ago and try and use that as my guide. I only wish Qbass had documented the stenciling process a bit better.

This was probably not the best project to get my feet wet with stenciling.

That is pretty strange using White first.

Yeah, when my friend and I tried to lay it down we were just baffled. There was no decent way to line it up. I think I'll start with the yellow and go from there. At least then we will have reference points. I'm not at all happy with the stencils. How hard is it to put in registration marks?

After I lined them all up on a sheet of glass (use a really bright work light underneath), I stapled the sheets together (use staples at the edges both horizontally and vertically to hold things still). Then I snipped little wedge shapes in the lower corners. At each corner one from the side and one from the bottom. They were about 1" deep from the edge and 1/4" wide. I only had two stencils to do.

It would be nice if the references were part of the stencil of course. However no after-the-fact references will be perfect. But, they were extremely helpful when putting on the second stencil. I started by lining up the references and lightly tacking on the stencil. I observed issues so I pulled it off and remounted it but the references let me shift it by a known amount. I took 4 tries before I was happy and you really can remount it that many time if you only press it on lightly.

I also did quite a bit of trimming with a razor and also added some tape to adjust some shapes here and there. The biggest issue boils down to the lack of overlap. Its ridiculous. Looking carefully at my High Speed cabinet I can see a healthy overlap of ~1/8" in some areas.

Yeah that's because at the factory they used big metal stencils and they weren't worried about the overlap because they had to do so many very quickly. I just did the front of my game because it was in such bad shape. Didn't turn out to bad but was a major pain because they didn't line up at all. Probably should have layed down the yellow first.I was just following the instructions from the stencil maker.

HS LEFT CORNER.JPG
HS FRONT SANDED7613.JPG
HS cab front primed.JPG
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IMGA0552.JPG

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IMGA0308.JPG

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Except properly designed stencils have overlap, it is not a speed issue. The colour order is forced by the stencil design. Stencils that are like puzzle pieces leave gaps, they are just poor.

I have used stencils just once so far and have a set for my Centaur that I will use eventually. But that will be the last stencil I ever buy. I also found them to be a real pain in the ass. I redid my High Speed using frisket mask and just took my time.

Both hideouts have a piece like that avoid the wire switchs from being projected down too much when the balls are ejected.

Hello-

I need someone here in the club to do a little experiment for me, in regards to a sound issue I'm having.

I have background music (from the sound board itself) but no speech and no sound fx, and while the music plays, I get a continuous clicking sound from the speaker. I suspect (at best) both cpu sound roms to be bad. When both roms are removed, same thing, the clicking sound.

Can someone remove their cpu sound and speech roms, power on, and let me know if it's doing the same?

Pull your roms, clean the legs. If there's capacitors for the speech part on the pcb, replace them... Just coming at this from previous similar issues with older games

Hi I was wondering if any one found a source for the metal spacers that are on the plastics, or a substitute? and also a source for the screws that go through the red posts. the ones that have threads on both ends? thanks . (and sorry if this has been answered before..)

I'm in the club! I'm in the middle of shopping it and I think it will clean up quite nicely. I'm doing full LEDs and upgraded speakers. The PF is a bit rough so I might do a swap at some point if I can get my hands on a better PF.

HS1.jpg

A picture of the parts you are looking for might help.
Post screws might be these:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4425-1

But be careful, there are different sizes/lengths/threads.

Woops sorry these..pic of spacers.jpg
if there not avail. what else are people using?

Are you missing them totally, or just cannot remove the old ones? I do not think they are available anymore. You might be able to use a standard plastic post that has been shaved down, then a proper size nut/bolt/washer combination.

Just joined the club. Bought one at Expo that needs love.

What about just using some mini-plastic posts? Like these:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/550-5052-02

I think the point of those metal ones was to keep the balls off the plastic, and that was these mini-posts are supposed to do as well on an F-14. I picked up a plastic set and was thinking about just using the mini posts instead. Maybe like dsuperbee said though, they need to be shaved down or something.

Ok That might work, I'll try some and let you know how they worked..

I'm replacing all the plastics and need to figure something out. someone said to heat up the ends and try melting them into the new plastics .. that may be the last resort..

That is how I moved mine over, it really is pretty easy. Heat up the metal with a soldering iron, and they pop right out. Re-heat, pop into new plastics.

+1 take your soldering iron heat the tip and pull.

You may try the plastic one used on the 11C's but I can't guarantee they will fit

Has anyone tried different color score displays in the game?

<---- Newest member.

Picking it up saturday morning.

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I've got Xpin green!

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Welcome to the club.

That looks really nice.

Looks good!

I went with blue on mine when display 3 packed it in...looks good with the backglass colors

I'd like to see that.
-mof

Joining the club! I picked up a beater a couple weeks ago.

About time Cheddar!