Under please!! Great work also.

I have ran a 12" strip of red and blue 5050 leds on angle to match the sides of the road of the backglass. I made a flasher board and P/S board so they alternate red and blue, looks so much better now. I took a short video but can't seem to post here.

Nice touch, also thanks for your service to America.

Here is a video of the leds I installed in my backglass.

I used a 12" strip of red and 12" strip of blue leds. I bought a flasher board from Ebay. I made a simple power supply to power everything from the #89 flashlamp circuit on the insert board.

Not that hard, if there is enough interest I can't post some detailed pics.

I tied into the flasher power circuit so I wouldn't have to run wires back to the power supply. The led strips are on all the time when the pin is powered up.

I used basic 12 volt led strips, one red and one blue. Cost @ a dollar per foot. This whole mod only cost me seven dollars. I also did this so I can put it back without damage.

008.JPG

009.JPG

ebay.com link: itm They have gone up a dollar since I got mine a year ago.

I got mine a year ago for three dollars and free shipping.

Parts list.

12" 12 volt 5050 red 60 led per meter strip.
12" 12 volt 5050 blue 60 led per meter strip.
5 gallon paint stir stick cut to the correct width and length.
Flasher circuit board from Ebay.
LM7812 regulator.
22uf 50 volt electrolytic cap.
Heat sink for the regulator.
18" 22ga red wire.
4 burnt out #44 bulbs.
Hot glue.
2 #6 wood screws.

To mount the led strips I removed 3 bulbs on each side, then I took four burnt bulbs and broke the glass out. I removed the entire filament so there wouldn't be a short, and filled the bulb base with hot glue. When the hot glue cools down insert the bulb bases into the outter and inner lamp sockets on each side. Use a razor knife to cut two paint sticks to a width a little wider than the led strip. Also cut the the sticks to the correct length. Now add some hot glue to the bulb bases and attach the wood strip to each side. Once you have the flasher board from ebay completed, you wont need there leds and remote led boards. You just need the wires with the connectors to solder to the led strips. Make sure to get the polarity correct or the leds wont light. I then removed the #89 flasher sockets to install the led wires and hot glued the leds strips to the wood strips. When that had cooled I reinstalled the #89 flasher sockets. This is easy so far!!!!

Here is a pic of the circuit board installed next to the flasher resistors. Since I'm using Led flash bulbs I don't need the ground wire on the warming resistors. If you look carefully you will see that I cut off the ground wire from the resistor board to use for the ground of the power supply. I can always reattach it later if I want restore it to original. If you love your incandescent flash bulbs, then don't cut the ground wire just add a new black wire to the terminal with the two black wires. Mount the circuit board with a #6 screw and a plastic spacer to the insert board. Then plug in the led strips to the circuit board.

010.JPG

The first pic shows you where to hook up the red power wire. That is the left #89 flash socket, make your connection to the red wires. The second pic show how to wire the 12 volt regulator and cap. The cap is an electrolytic so polarity is a must. There you have it, a 3 hour easy project that is cheap and looks great.

004.JPG

002.JPG

Oops my pics are backwards.

Let me know what you come up with as I have a Police Force also. I added a flashing lamp at the end of the gun barrel. The flashing lights on the police car in the back box could use something better.

Is this drop assembly something that you are going to use. What you need is a contact closing for each drop wired in series to fire a TIP 102. Take power from pop coil and ground it thru the TIP 102. No programing is needed. If you need more details give me a pm.

This is what you will need, you can add additional contacts to each drop. Will it fit????? Can you find enough????????

Last but not least no pink drops on High Speed!

What you have there is 2 no/nc switches. This will work for what you want.

Now that I see that it has a horseshoe wiper, this is not as I expected. Use the other drop assembly with the separate contacts.

gmkalos Would the horseshoe contacts end up on the inner pair in the down position? Or would it be 1st and 3rd? Also does it land on the very top two contacts with the holes in the up position?

The orange wires are in series, for the targets to reset each time any are hit you need to change this to parallel. Start by cutting each orange loop and take the lefts and connect them together to five volts. Take the two right oranges and the right green wires and connect them together with another wire to go to the reset transistor.

Lets say your replacing the lower left stand ups with this drop bank. Take the green/yellow wires and connect it to the column wire on the machine Grn/Red. The Wht/ Orn wire to the games row wire Wht/Vio. The Wht/Red wire to the games Wht/Blu. And the last Wht/Brn wire to the games Wht/Grn. That's all there is to that.

Switch matrix, yes just like they are mounted. Reset circuit not needed.

I hope I can go to pinfest.

Sounds like fun, not every pin has to be restored.

No tricks to this. This can be a simple as a bad bulb, but how to tell is the hard part. I normally remove all the bulbs on a circuit like this, then remove the fuse and connect me multimeter across the fuse terminals. I set it to A/C amps. Power up the game and it should read zero, if not the you have a bulb socket issue or a pinched wire somewhere. If it reads zero, then I add one bulb at a time. If you using #44 bulbs, each time you add one the amps should go up @ .25 amps. When you get one that adds more than .25 amp you found your problem, maybe a bad bulb or a bad socket. Troubleshoot from there on as there may be more then one problem.

Not to bad for my back yard.

This should be the right side of the p/f. Correct?

I count only 17 on my HS right side p/f. That should only draw 4.25 amps max on a 5 amp slow blow fuse.

Make a list of all coils that don't work.

Did you check for voltage?

All three EOS switches are the same.

Yes you can. Also clean the lane change contacts with a new dollar bill while your in there.

There better be a stacked switch on the left one also. Great players like me need to put there name up for high scores.

This is called the shooter lane.

This is the outhole. This is the switch you need to check, #9 outhole. Put game in switch test, remove all the balls and use one ball to test this outhole switch. It maybe a broken wire, a bad switch diode or the switch is just out of adjustment. I have seen broken rubbers slide down the playfield and into the outhole blocking the ball from activating the switch,

Check for power at the coil lugs on the coils that aren't working.

Yes they are, but #89 will work. They last longer but a little bit dimmer.

Fun times in your future.

There is 2 bulbs in series on this circuit. If one or the other burns out neither will light. When you install a LED bulb in the socket the power from the warming resistor for this bulb is enough to light an LED all the time. But this bulb shouldn't be on all the time because its a flasher bulb. If you want to run LEDs in the flasher circuits you will need to remove the warming resistors. The other bulb for this circuit is in the upper right corner under the plastic and is most likely burned out.

These are switches and do not light up.

Yes, but you can use #89 bulbs and they will last a lot longer.

The first thing I would do is set your DMM to DC volts and the black lead to the ground braid and the red led to the metal tab of Q-79 on the CPU board. Should be @ 28-32 volts. Then I would take a jumper wire and ground one side to the ground braid and briefly touch the other side to the metal tab of Q-79 on the CPU board. The bulbs should flash each time Q-79 is grounded. If both of these work as described then the CPU board needs troubleshooting.

Let me know what you find.

If the coil was hot, it was locked on at some point. If the coil locks on when you hit the power switch, the driver, predriver and coil diode are bad. If the coil locks when you start a game then you have a logic chip problem. The problem is that if a coil locks on for one second the current that flows thru the coil is more than the TIPs and diodes can handle and they need to be replaced, period. If you could smell the coil burning then the coil and sleeve are shot and need to be replaced. The first thing you need to check is the skirt and switch for the pop bumper. If the skirt doesn't move freely or sticks then the switch will stay closed and melt another coil. Make sure the switch is gaped properly. Then replace the coil, diode and sleeve, but leave one wire off. Replace the TIP 122 with a TIP102 as they are stronger and replace the predriver. Reinstall the CPU and power on the pin. Touch the wire to the coil lug, nothing should happen. Start a game and retest the coil again, still nothing should happen. Turn off power and resolder the wire on the coil.

You need to replace it anyway and the coil diode too.

Check for continuity thru the big molex connector on the wire harness.

That tests the switch for scoring not for energizing the coil.
Do you have a DMM and or logic probe?

Page 38 of the manual shows all parts needed for the beacon.

These coils have relays that turn them on, you are hearing them click so they must not have power. There is a single fuse holder in the back box for these coils, check it for continuity.

Try a new diode on the pop switch and see if that helps.

There is two of these in the lower right corner of the back box.

The one with two blue wires and a black and purple wire is for making +18 volts DC. With the game on you can measure the black to the purple wire and read 18 volts DC.

pasted_image (resized).png

^^^^ post above ^^^^

Disconnect J3 on this board and replace the fuse and power up the game. Does the fuse burn now?

Reverse the test leads and retest the coil again as you may have been reading the diode. Or the best way is to lift one lead of the diode then test.

Use diode 1n4007 for all diodes as they cost the same and are rated higher than the original ones. Those 3 numbers that came up on the displays are switch numbers that are not working or have not been activated in awhile.

Good to hear you have this under control. I think you will do very well on Pinsides.

I would check for the correct voltage, 5 and +12 at the CPU. I would check for AC voltage on both of these. I would swap both CPU chips on the Cpu board. I would check for cracked header pins for the power cable that goes from the power supply and CPU board. Also remove the game Roms and look for dirty or bent pins. Clean pins with an eraser and reinstall Roms. Last would be to monitor the 5 volts while someone plays multiball until it locks up.

No, connect to the cathode side of ZR-1. 11.8-14 volts and less than .2 volts AC.

4.9-5.05 volts and less than .2 volts AC.

And the big question is what is the voltage with when the problem occurs.

https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/freeplay40

The EOS switch to be adjusted to have more closing pressure when in the down position.

The talking comes from the CPU board and the background music comes from the sound board. But both sounds and music are mixed on the CPU board and then amplified on the CPU board.

Are these std or led bulbs? If standard then make sure that all four bulbs are good. Manual calls for #63, but #89 will last a lot longer. If you check for voltage at the red wires on the socket both should have @30 volts dc, you can use any of the black wires at the resistors for ground. You should also show voltage on the brown wire on the socket if the bulb is good. And you should have voltage on the orange wire if the other bulb is good. Lastly if you touch a jumper from the single brown/red wire to the black wire on the resistor board all four bulbs should light. If only 2 bulbs light check the ohms of the resistor for the pair that doesn't light.

If there are #63 bulbs, then they are in pairs as this type of bulb is only 7 volts. First find the power at the first bulb then second bulb then resistor lastly the cpu board transistor. Did the new flashers work now?

#63 bulbs are brighter then #89 bulbs but last half as long.

Playball!

No, either clean and adjust the EOS switch or replace it with new one. Also clean the flipper cabinet switches. PS you clean these type of contacts (tungsten) with a metal file.

When you energize the flipper 100% of the power needs to go thru these contacts to give the coil its high power, as they burn and corrode from arcing the coil power goes down until a point that the flipper doesn't even move any more.

Post a pic of the EOS and cabinet switch.

You do requests?

The power supply may need rebuilding or you have some cracked header pins on the power wire going from the power supply to the CPU board. Use a volt meter and test the 5 volts on the test point on the CPU board, let us know what it reads.

I have to wonder what a clear green ramp would look like.

Pic is very blurry, but I would say it should connect to a green/orange on the left.

Rebuild the original.

This is a snubber relay set up. HS uses this on both hide out coils. On F-14 Williams made a circuit board that has all 3 parts mounted on it. I think you need a 180 ohm 2 watt resistor for this, the original is a 1/2 watt and they are a bit undersized.

Then its not the relay because if the lower right flipper works going thru the relay then the upper right should work also as its the same wire. I would put a jumper wire on the EOS switch and then see if it works then but do not cradle with a jumper installed as it will over heat the coil and burn the fuse. I would bet you have a couple issues going on at the same time.

Next time you do this do not just ground the middle lug as this bypasses the EOS switch and just checks for power and if the high power coil broken. If you ground the 3 lug (not the power lug) the power has to flow thru the EOS switch and the coil, listen to the sound the flipper makes when you ground the middle lug and then ground the 3 lug and listen for the same sound or does it sound weaker. If it sounds weaker then you need to clean or adjust the EOS switch or both.

This is why I think you have a couple of issues. The relay is one and the upper flipper EOS switch is the second. Since you just rebuilt the flippers I would bet you need to adjust the closed pressure on the EOS switch, if the contacts are just touching they will burn the mating surface and then stop working due to high resistance.

Yes.

Finish the switches and wait for it to return, then have another look.

That is for the right pop bumper, does it work now? If it does work, then I would leave it alone.

1. 12 volt DC relay. https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiVqsmyhubbAhVWucAKHUZjAksYABAGGgJpbQ&ae=1&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESEeD2CJf43boRlbreUBI-ZOi7&sig=AOD64_0rDOy2TjI3qXrgZNlMWDnAAH7tMA&ctype=5&q=&ved=0ahUKEwj8oMOyhubbAhWI7IMKHSEaAeoQwg8IKA&adurl=https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bch-0332209150%3Fseid%3Dsrese1%26cm_mmc%3Dpla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-bosch-automotive%26gclid%3DCjwKCAjwma3ZBRBwEiwA-CsblOm5fhgdiJgB-OpgYZgQ3JZ7t0wG0h5uBd8pmUmtL_bG3AuZyHMPjRoCtBsQAvD_BwE

2. Switch stuck closed. The game is trying to eject the ball.

All 4 relays are the same. They are 12 volt 30 amp.

Power-on Tone(s).
When the system 11 games boots, it produces power-on tone(s). Here is the breakdown of the tone(s):

No Sound: sound/speech board is not operating, or a failure is affecting the sound circuitry (broken or disconnected cable, dead amplifier, bad speaker).
One Tone: sound/speech system OK.
Two Tones: sound/speech RAM problem.
Three Tones: U4 problem.
Four Tones: U19 problem.
CPU Sound Diagnostic Switch SW1.
On the left side of the CPU board there are two switches. The top switch SW1 is the sound diagnostic switch. If you press this button, you should get two test sounds. This shows that the CVSD (Continuously Variable Slope Delta) modulator, which produces the game's voices, and the DAC (Digital to Analog Converter) sound circuits are working.

After pressing CPU switch SW1 you should get some tones. Here is the breakdown:

No Sound: sound/speech board is not operating, or a failure is affecting the sound circuitry (broken or disconnected cable, dead amplifier, bad speaker).
One Tone: U23 RAM chip error.
Two Tones: U21 ROM chip error.
Three Tones: U22 ROM chip error.
Four Tones: U21 ROM chip error.
Five Tones: U22 ROM chip error.

Is it chimes or is it 5 knocks from the knocker?

Have you checked the output of the power supply?

The 32 volt F-2 fuse is burnt, this fuse powers the coin lockout coils and some play field coils.

I think there is a roll pin that locks the shaft to the arm. It maybe broken.

There is a lone 2.5 amp fuse in the back box that is blown.

I think I can help you, if my memory serves me the power (32 volts DC) comes on a red wire to the left bulb socket (#63 bulb). Thru the bulb and leaves on a brown wire to the right bulb socket (#63 bulb). #63 bulbs are 7 volt dc bulbs. Then it leaves the right socket on an orange wire back to the resistor board. Connected to the orange wire on the resistor board is 2 resistors, the first is a 330 ohm resistor and it connects to 2 black wires which are connected to ground. This allows power to flow thru both bulbs and the 330 ohm resistor to ground which will warm the filaments so they light brighter and quicker. The second resistor is a 10 ohm resistor. The other side of this resistor has a blue /black wire connected to it. The blue/black wire goes to the cpu to turn on and off the bulbs. So when the cpu grounds the blue/black wire power will now flow thru both bulbs and thru the 10 ohm resistor and then to ground. Since there is less resistance the bulbs will light fully now.

If you change both bulbs to #89 bulbs they will last for many years but be a tiny bit dimmer.

Someone may have added washers on the plunger shaft to increase spring tension, and now the spring goes into coil bind. Remove them if not needed and install a new spring.

Do you have 3J4 or 3J2 on the power supply connected?

I would cut off the diode from the left outlane kickback coil, then check the coils resistance. It should read @ 5 ohms. If it is lower, replace it. If it is good then install a new diode 1n4007 with the silver line facing the purple/yellow wire. Then retest.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ok-i-have-a-problem#postbox

Yep.

The correct switch is #5647-09933-00. The wires are in the first pic, white/yellow and the yellow jumper wire. They connect to the COM and the NO contacts of the switch. Yes you can use the switch in pic #2 if you can mount it and adjust is correctly.

Nobody has these any more. you can carefully remove the red and green lenses and reverse them and the install the cover upside down with hot glue to hold in place so not to see the melted hole.

You can buy the complete switch and target from PBR.

Yes you can use #89 bulbs and they will last for many years. #63 bulbs will only last 6 months at best. Hardly any difference in brightness.

You need to install a voltmeter on the 5 volt test points on the CPU. Retest and note the voltage for DC and AC.

Does it fluctuate when you start a game.

A zero is booted.

I would start with checking voltages. 5,12,-12,100,-100,18 and 32. If you don't how or where to check let me know.

First off I normally remove all connectors from the power supply except the two lower rectangle ones in the box in pic #1.

Going to list average readings that you should see from these TP (test point)
TP1 5.062V Pic #2.
TP3 14.60V Pic #4.
TP4 -14.94V Pic #3.
Fuse 2 42.49V both sides Pic #5.
Fuse 3 19.66V both sides Pic #5.
Fuse 4 42.46V both sides Pic #5.
J5 Pin 3 -103.5 Pic #6.
J5 Pin 4 104.6 Pic #6.
J5 pin 6 5.062V Pic #6.

pasted_image (resized).png

pasted_image (resized).png

pasted_image (resized).png

pasted_image (resized).png

pasted_image (resized).png

pasted_image (resized).png

When testing DC voltage, black lead always to ground. That being said you can use the ground braid if in good condition, any circuit board screw head or the back plane as its metal in this game.

Reconnect all the connectors on the power supply. Turn on the game.
Now check the blanking signal with your voltmeter set to DC volts, black lead to ground and red lead to a silver spot on the CPU board that says BLANKING It's written upside down just above U-20 pin 2. What do you read?

I don't want to mislead anyone here, this is not my power supply. I rebuilt this power supply for heni1977 when he was having problems with his F-14.
His bridge rectifier shorted out and he said he wasn't ready for that much just yet. So I gave it a once over for him GRUMPY style.
I believe the single most important thing you can do when you get a new machine is to rebuild the power supply, after that you will have very few electronic problems.

When your ready to install this I can help with the connections if you like.

Yes, 2-5 volts from where you measured it is fine. I betting that you have a poor connection somewhere on the CPU board. This could be a bad socket or a loose chip. I would start by carefully reseating U-15, U-26 and U-27. I normally pull out the board that I want to reseat chips on. Then I place the board on hard flat surface and then gently pry up each end of the chip with a very small screwdriver, Not to remove but to just lift a bit. Then press the chip straight back down with firm even pressure until it doesn't move anymore. A good pic of the board set could help by getting a bunch more eyes on the situation. When troubleshooting I find 70% of my problems with my eyes.

Next thing to try is replacing the CPU chip U-15.

A standard DMM will not test caps. You can take a new cap of the correct size and put alligator clips on it and then attach it to the old C-30 cap leads without removing it. If it boots with the new cap connected, then the old cap needs to be replaced. But your old board was booting and had a good blanking signal, so it wasn't the C-30 cap.

First check D-2 for an open. If D-2 is ok then replace the battery holder.

As dumb as it gets.

https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/best-practices/test-tools-basics/digital-multimeters/how-to-test-diodes-using-a-digital-multimeter

These go on the knocker coil.

Both reds go on the knocker coil. One red is the power wire, the other red wire is the power for the beacon which comes from the knocker.

Yep.

If this is a system 11a board in a system 11 game you will need to add a jumper on the back of the board.

Remove the CPU board and look at the back of the J -18 pins 6 and 7. Are they connected to the perimeter ground plane?