(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.

By lordloss

7 years ago


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#751 7 years ago
Quoted from GhostofThurman:

Do you use the same red targets for all 9 red targets or are the lower ones different?

I just replaced a two of the upper targets, didn't look at the lower ones but had assumed they were the same. Looks like I should have checked before agreeing that all 15 were the same

#752 7 years ago
Quoted from tonycip:

So all those resistors are just for warming up the flashers? if I use led"s will they no longer be needed?

You need to lift the warming resistor, but you need to leave the current limiting resistor in place.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#Flash_Lamp_Resistor_Board_.28Remotely_Located.29

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/removing-warming-resistors

#753 7 years ago

While I have the pf out waiting for Freeplay40's ramp to arrive I've been busy cleaning wire bundles in the cab, cleaning the very back inside the cab and a few other things for when the ramp arrives and I can put the pf back in. One of the TOP things to replace was the original scoop hole red plastic so I stuck in a new clear red one and am going to light it up with a red flex. Took a whole 3 minutes to replace with the pf out. It will really give me something to shoot for then.

Anyone else doing stuff to their game while waiting for the new ramp?

Scoop plastic.JPG

#754 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

light it up with a red flex

I lit my opaque one with a red SMD, more than bright enough without going to translucent. I also (think posted earlier in this thread) lit up both of my star rollovers on the back, and using two flex smd's did the same for my flipper buttons. I also swapped out the black plunger for a translucent red one.

#755 7 years ago
Quoted from Pac-Fan:

I lit my opaque one with a red SMD, more than bright enough without going to translucent. I also (think posted earlier in this thread) lit up both of my star rollovers on the back, and using two flex smd's did the same for my flipper buttons. I also swapped out the black plunger for a translucent red one.

that's to funny, I've done all that to mine also. But I used 2 red flex for each button.

#756 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

While I have the pf out waiting for Freeplay40's ramp to arrive I've been busy cleaning wire bundles in the cab, cleaning the very back inside the cab and a few other things for when the ramp arrives and I can put the pf back in. One of the TOP things to replace was the original scoop hole red plastic so I stuck in a new clear red one and am going to light it up with a red flex. Took a whole 3 minutes to replace with the pf out. It will really give me something to shoot for then.
Anyone else doing stuff to their game while waiting for the new ramp?

MustangPaul, where did you purchase your red scoop? I would like to replace mine as well!

Thanks!

Scoop plastic.JPG 161 KB

#757 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

TOP things to replace was the original scoop hole red plastic so I stuck in a new clear red one and am going to light it up with a red flex.

Is this the same part in clear?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9101-13

#758 7 years ago

Yup, with that one the scoop could be lit with any color flex or regular color changer. Wish they made a flex color changer. Marco for the red one too.

#759 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Yup, with that one the scoop could be lit with any color flex or regular color changer. Wish they made a flex color changer. Marco for the red one too.

Pretty sure someone does make a flex color changer, cause I tried it in my GnR guitar mode kickout. Did not care for it.

#760 7 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Pretty sure someone does make a flex color changer, cause I tried it in my GnR guitar mode kickout. Did not care for it.

Really I'll have to ask Art at Comet if he has plans on bringing one to market.

#762 7 years ago
Quoted from tonycip:

Ok 3 sets sold ! 1 left who wants it? 25.00 shipped

20140505_180300.jpg

solid Oak rail set for HS

#763 7 years ago

Clear ramp came today and looks great. Thanks for polishing the brackets and adjusting the switches Mark. Worth every penny.

#764 7 years ago

I have 2 HIGH SPEED games for parts only. I has a real nice playfield. E mail me direct with wants. stevepinfla@aol.com

#765 7 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Clear ramp came today and looks great. Thanks for polishing the brackets and adjusting the switches Mark. Worth every penny.

My pleasure. Let me know if you have any questions... Post a photo once you get it installed???

#766 7 years ago

High Speed clear ramps... So, this will basically be last call for ramps right now. Have sent emails to all who had indicated interest. For those who decided to pass and sent me an email back to let me know, I appreciate it.

I will of course complete the ramps for all who have paid and I am awaiting their parts.

I'm going to take a couple weeks off to help my son prepare some things for the NW Pinball Show in June. If there is still interest between now and June I will gear up and make some more. Will also be taking my High Speed to the show with the clear ramp.....maybe a new stoplight if I find time.

Thanks to all for the support and purchases so far.

#767 7 years ago

Thanks for doing these for us Mark. Take a well deserved break and have some fun. Very interested in what you come up with for a stop light.

#768 7 years ago

Could someone get Mezelmods the info he needs to make a plug N play interactive 64th scale cop car for our game. I don't have the know how to supply it. I want one for under the new ramp.

#769 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Could someone get Mezelmods the info he needs to make a plug N play interactive 64th scale cop car for our game. I don't have the know how to supply it. I want one for under the new ramp.

A note on a police car under the ramp. I'd take a photo, but I'm too tired. Anyway, under the ramp (left side) there is a typical red post which is positioned to prevent an errant ball shot around the freeway from getting caught under the stock ramp. The shape of my ramp is a little deeper at that point, so that post could be removed if desired... and make more room for a Police Car, uh unit #504, to be placed.

#770 7 years ago

Installed ramp today and relocated stoplight. All is fine but used factory holes for ramp flap and brackets. Could not get it to lineup flush with play field . Tried to move ramp back to line up but not lined up correctly.the difference in heights is sometimes causing air balls going up ramp. Mark ,did you see any of this in testing and did your ramp flaps match even with play field? I must be doing something wrong.

#771 7 years ago

image.jpgimage.jpg

#772 7 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Installed ramp today and relocated stoplight. All is fine but used factory holes for ramp flap and brackets. Could not get it to lineup flush with play field . Tried to move ramp back to line up but not lined up correctly.the difference in heights is sometimes causing air balls going up ramp. Mark ,did you see any of this in testing and did your ramp flaps match even with play field? I must be doing something wrong.

Still got my phone number? Call me

#773 7 years ago

Follow up to our phone call... I don't know what the process was when these games were originally assembled, but I suspect that although the new reproduction playfields have holes spotted for the two screws under the flap I think they may have been drilled at the time of the original installation of the stock ramps. What we discovered is that his hold down holes (under the flap) obviously differ from my two playfields causing the plastic ramp to in his case to actually sit up on the playfield....in effect creating a monster speed bump.

So as you receive your ramps, you want to test fit them. The screws into the playfield under the flap should probably be the last two screws installed. The ramp itself is modeled to sit in the depression cut into the field, tight up against the shoulder at the entrance. Check alignment of the holes I put into the ramp for the last two hold down screws and should they not line up acceptably, you might have to drill new ones into the playfield and possibly fill the others if they are close. The two most important screws are those that hold the big plate that is riveted to the ball guide to the playfield. Once these are attached, the ramp entrance should be snug with the shoulder of the playfield at the entrance.

I test fit all the ramps I have left into both of my playfields and they line up correctly. MJW...let us know how it works out.

#774 7 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Still got my phone number? Call me

Thanks for the help. Was able to bend tip of flap slightly and tweaked screw hole locations No more air balls.

#775 7 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Thanks for the help. Was able to bend tip of flap slightly and tweaked screw hole locations No more air balls.

Awesome. You are the first one to get it installed!

#776 7 years ago

Great going MJW....now how does it play?

#777 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Great going MJW....now how does it play?

Plays very good. Does seem quieter as Mark said. Clear ramp and relocated stoplight really update the game.

#778 7 years ago

Guys, remember that there will be differences in ALL playfields, and you may have to do some adjustments to ramps (no matter who made the repros) to get them to fit. This is especially true since most repros use a thicker plastic than the originals. Easiest way is to use a dremel and slowly remove small amounts of material to get the ramps to sit flush. I have yet to install my clear HS ramp, but I have had to do this process on all the new ramps I have ever installed, and expect the same with this one

#779 7 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Guys, remember that there will be differences in ALL playfields, and you may have to do some adjustments to ramps (no matter who made the repros) to get them to fit. This is especially true since most repros use a thicker plastic than the originals. Easiest way is to use a dremel and slowly remove small amounts of material to get the ramps to sit flush. I have yet to install my clear HS ramp, but I have had to do this process on all the new ramps I have ever installed, and expect the same with this one

dsuperbee is correct, had to modify my repro Cyclone ramp when I did my CPR Swap. Taking material off the underside of the ramp entrance behind the metal flap made the ball transition much easier from the playfield.

#780 7 years ago
Quoted from nvu4prod:

dsuperbee is correct, had to modify my repro Cyclone ramp when I did my CPR Swap. Taking material off the underside of the ramp entrance behind the metal flap made the ball transition much easier from the playfield.

So true. I've completed 3 playfield swaps (KISS, Fathom and High Speed) and have learned to not completely trust the pre drilled holes or the dimpling. No disrespect for CPR, actually, I think I have gained a lot more respect for their trying to find the "best" possible location for a lot of what they have to align. So what I've learned is to double check everything before installing. Same goes for the ramps. My stock ramp was actually a terrible fit. Guess this is why one can play much differently from its brother.

#781 7 years ago

So...
How do you get this ramp off? I have the front ends unattached, but I don't get how it attaches in the rear...
-mof

#782 7 years ago

Since I've done this a gazillion times now....

There are two screws under the flap..

There are two screws on the left outer edge

There are two screws in the back that hold the switch plate to the diverter mechanism. You have to hold the diverter in the activated position to get one of them

There is one screw on the right side into the wood rail

Then you need to lift the playfield and unplug the wire from the ramp.

If your are lucky, the male end of the plug will be the one that goes to the ramp. Only the male plug will fit through the slot cut into the playfield to feed the wire up to the top. Will also help to pop the two rubber bands in the back loose on the right side. If your game is like most so far, the bigger female plug is the one on the ramp harness. In order to get this through the playfield so you can remove the ramp, you will need to remove at least the three screws on the right side of the machine that hold the back board on. (Look back through thread to see my stop light relocation photos...there you can see the three screws I'm talking about) If you remove the playfield this is really easy to see. It can be done with the playfield lifted and a little coordination. With those 3 screws removed, you can give a light "rap" to that side of the backboard and it will pop loose giving you enough room to feed the wire through.

#783 7 years ago

Just brought home a High Speed last night. Loving this game. The RPM's and the sound of the engine makes me smile.

#784 7 years ago

Call me crazy, I'm going to go with blue targets on the lower 6.
I think it's lazy to re-use red standups (when red targets up top mean something towards a goal) on the lower 6 when the goal there is simply to keep the ball-save alive. I think white doesn't belong in the game at all, and the big "banana" flashers are blue, and the tachometer is blue...
This might push me back towards blue flippers ! haha...
Hell, I might even go with blue skirts now... haha
-mof

#785 7 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Call me crazy, I'm going to go with blue targets on the lower 6.
I think it's lazy to re-use red standups (when red targets up top mean something towards a goal) on the lower 6 when the goal there is simply to keep the ball-save alive. I think white doesn't belong in the game at all, and the big "banana" flashers are blue, and the tachometer is blue...
This might push me back towards blue flippers ! haha...
Hell, I might even go with blue skirts now... haha
-mof

For some reason I think mine are orange (probably faded from red) on the lower standups. They do match the inserts that way!

#786 7 years ago
Quoted from mof:

... the lower 6 when the goal there is simply to keep the ball-save alive

Am I the only one thinking the game rules are unfinished because of this, to a certain extent ?
I mean... just think of the cost to put 6 standup targets in the game, only to trigger the kickback !

#787 7 years ago
Quoted from Lowrent:

Am I the only one thinking the game rules are unfinished because of this, to a certain extent ?
I mean... just think of the cost to put 6 standup targets in the game, only to trigger the kickback !

Really good point... Basically 1/6th of the targets are used at a time to manage "random shots" for a kickback in the lower PF.

-mof

#788 7 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

For some reason I think mine are orange (probably faded from red) on the lower standups. They do match the inserts that way!

I thought of orange, then thought the blue would look better in contrast to the orange glow of the inserts...
The backglass is primarily BLUE, and then there's only BLUE in the tach and the big flashers. Otherwise no other blue. So I think it's screaming for more blue to tie in the backglass BLUE better... we'll see.

I'm going blue skirts, blue flippers, blue targets now, just to see what it's like.

Grabbed a second set of habitrails off ebay for a deal, might powder them blue, might not... =)

-mof

#789 7 years ago

Mod proposal:

RADAR GUN !!!

Why:
I think it would be fun to rate how fast your orbit shots are, this would likely be a direct correlation to how big of a score you'll get from the spinner.

MUST have:
1. Install a real radar gun at the entrance to the orbit.
2. Install a small 3-digit display for the speed output.
3. Speed should blink 3 times quickly, then vanish.

NICE to have:
1. ability to convert actual speed into a range of MPH that seems fast (100-150 MPH, etc)

Possible workarounds for a real radar gun...
1. "Calculate" the speed from the "actual revolutions per second of the spinner", (over any 1-second sample) and then convert it to a fictitious MPH in the (100-150) range.
2. This should work off both spinners.
3. The faster spinner wins the calculation at any time.

I know it's just a fantasy, but you NEVER know when some genius can make something happen on these forums...

-mof
radar love.png

#790 7 years ago

Eventually, Planetary will be doing upgrades to System 11 hardware/software. Similar to the WPC 2.0 recently revealed on Pinside. No guarantee they will do High Speed...BUT THEY SHOULD! Would be cool to have something that indicated speed... I love those multiple "round the world" shots. I would think that time lapse between either the two spinners or the two roll overs could be converted to a prescribed speed tied to an LED readout. And someone 3D prints a mini radar gun!

#791 7 years ago

Got my clear ramp today, looks great. May not get installed right away, but the quality is great.

#792 7 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Got my clear ramp today, looks great. May not get installed right away, but the quality is great.

ditto...... GREAT craftsmanship Mark.

#793 7 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Got my clear ramp today, looks great. May not get installed right away, but the quality is great.

Quoted from MustangPaul:

ditto...... GREAT craftsmanship Mark.

Thanks guys! Glad you like them. Looks like I'm getting a little reprieve on work for the NW Pinball Show, so will be getting my HS ready to show it off there in a couple weeks. Ordered more supplies so I will probably begin making more in a few days. I only have 2 ramps left from the first run.

#794 7 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Mod proposal:
RADAR GUN !!!
Why:
I think it would be fun to rate how fast your orbit shots are, this would likely be a direct correlation to how big of a score you'll get from the spinner.
MUST have:
1. Install a real radar gun at the entrance to the orbit.
2. Install a small 3-digit display for the speed output.
3. Speed should blink 3 times quickly, then vanish.
NICE to have:
1. ability to convert actual speed into a range of MPH that seems fast (100-150 MPH, etc)
Possible workarounds for a real radar gun...
1. "Calculate" the speed from the "actual revolutions per second of the spinner", (over any 1-second sample) and then convert it to a fictitious MPH in the (100-150) range.
2. This should work off both spinners.
3. The faster spinner wins the calculation at any time.
I know it's just a fantasy, but you NEVER know when some genius can make something happen on these forums...
-mof

radar love.png 37 KB

Data east checkpoint has a speed detection feature. I own the game but not sure how it works.

#795 7 years ago

Just got my HS and already looking to fix things. When I got the game, I had some switch adjustment failures 39 and 40. Pointed to the left hideout. I simply checked the switch and everything appeared to be functioning properly. I think just wiggling to roll over wire and tinkering with it was enough. I'm not getting the switch adjustment failures anymore.
Do those micro switches usually go bad? I can still hear the inside click. Is it better to just replace it?

The previous owner peeled the mylar. Now i'm dealing with removing left behind adhesive. Going to attempt the Goo Gone, Alcohol, and flour trick.

In attract mode, I can hear a hum as the lights move around. The hum gets softer/louder as the lights fade and move around in attract mode. Looks like everything is grounded properly except for one area. And it's a mess. Not sure if this is even supposed to be here but someone hacked up some wires going to the coin door. There is a relay and I'm not sure why? There is a grounding braid that is disconnected and I'm assuming would go to the coin door? Check out this Pic.

Relay.JPG

#796 7 years ago

Wow. Hard to say what they were trying to accomplish there... However, you are correct that that ground braid should be connected to the coin door. On the micro switches, my experience is that if they do click, they general work. Do need to check exactly when they click and adjust if necessary so that when a ball rolls over it that it does in fact register.

#797 7 years ago

Yeah. I'm going to have to go back and try and draw that one on paper. There are some wires cut. That black wire from the relay may appear to be a ground? It terminates under the game counter mounting nut.

Does anyone else have a relay there? Not sure what purpose it would serve.

#798 7 years ago

Appears that this relay is spliced within the 36v line for the coin lockout coils. In addition, it's hooked in with the coin switches. Still not sure why this was ever put in place.

On a side note, I'm pretty sure the speaker hum is coming from missing pcb mounting screws. I'll grab some new ones from the hardware store tomorrow and check it out.

#799 7 years ago

Personally I'd gut that stuff and get everything wired back to stock and then fix any problems.

#800 7 years ago

Got the back board sanded and painted semi gloss and stop light mounted. Hopefully I'll get it all back together, with Mark's killer new clear ramp this weekend.

IMGA0966.JPG
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