(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.

By lordloss

7 years ago


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There are 4663 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 94.
#601 7 years ago

note: We still need a hero to create a sticker design for the up ramp.

Any HS owners have mad design skills? I'd propose a simple grey decal with white stripes, and black/white borders that mimics the freeway design on the PF that approaches the ramp...

-mof

Basically, a curved street look like the one approaching the upper left orbit, but with the white borders like the one approaching the ramp. Design doesn't get much easier than this.

likethis1.png
likethis2.png

#602 7 years ago

This ramp is more sculptured than a typical ramp. The floor of the ramp is a little curved, but close to flat. Something else to consider when coming up with ideas, is that we have two flashers (one on each side) that can now be retasked for some effect. I was thinking about putting yellow and black turn ahead decals ( >>>)at the corners that could be illuminated by the flashers. I think Mustang Paul is trying to figure out how to place a Mustang Police Car with flashers under the ramp . I've been testing the ramp in my game without the stop light installed. I kind of like the open look to the ramp so may also consider moving my stop light back into the left corner and hang it vertically. Can't wait to get the ramps done so I can think what to do next.

On another note, I have been striving to get this ramp to fit perfectly. In addition to eliminating the cover, I also wanted to solve a problem, at least with my stock ramp, that resulted in it cracking at the lower left corner of the entrance to the ramp. As designed, the vertical edge of the ramp sticks out a little and can get hit by the ball. My latest model has this nicely tucked behind the red post at the entrance. This should prevent it from get hammered by the ball. Fun stuff.

#603 7 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

omething else to consider when coming up with ideas, is that we have two flashers (one on each side) that can now be retasked for some effect. I was thinking about putting yellow and black turn ahead decals ( >>>)at the corners that could be illuminated by the flashers.

Good idea. I have a Jokerz with the clear upper playfield and that has 4 flashers behind it and a red/cream checker pattern on it. Your idea with >>>> on yellow/black is similar and fits with the HS theme.

jokerzUpperPFbackSticker.jpg

Thinking something like these then?
9455241-road-sign-indicating-curve-road-ahead.jpg Slim_Solar_Chevron_Sign_3_arrows.jpg chevrons-5502556.jpg

#604 7 years ago
Quoted from Pac-Fan:

Good idea. I have a Jokerz with the clear upper playfield and that has 4 flashers behind it and a red/cream checker pattern on it. Your idea with >>>> on yellow/black is similar and fits with the HS theme.

Thinking something like these then?

Exactly! Flashers would light them up nicely! Now I want to play with some water slide decals.... NO.. Must stay on task.

#605 7 years ago

Here are my goals for a bottom-side decal.

1. Block LOS (line of sight) bright white light
2. Block unused playfield (stuff under ramp) (when there's no light there)
3. Create a visual "blend" from playfield street look to the ramp
4. Keep the sides and upper ramp clear to "SEE" ball travel during an orbit shot. To me, this is a BIG reason to get clear ramps. I hate obscured orbit shots...

Here's how I propose it looks. I realize we can have BOTH side treatments and under treatments.

-mof

BEFORE
HS.png
AFTER
HS-grey.png

#606 7 years ago

This is just too much fun. Glad I picked High Speed for the first ramp mod!

#607 7 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

This ramp is more sculptured than a typical ramp. The floor of the ramp is a little curved, but close to flat. Something else to consider when coming up with ideas, is that we have two flashers (one on each side) that can now be retasked for some effect. I was thinking about putting yellow and black turn ahead decals ( >>>)at the corners that could be illuminated by the flashers. I think Mustang Paul is trying to figure out how to place a Mustang Police Car with flashers under the ramp . I've been testing the ramp in my game without the stop light installed. I kind of like the open look to the ramp so may also consider moving my stop light back into the left corner and hang it vertically. Can't wait to get the ramps done so I can think what to do next.
On another note, I have been striving to get this ramp to fit perfectly. In addition to eliminating the cover, I also wanted to solve a problem, at least with my stock ramp, that resulted in it cracking at the lower left corner of the entrance to the ramp. As designed, the vertical edge of the ramp sticks out a little and can get hit by the ball. My latest model has this nicely tucked behind the red post at the entrance. This should prevent it from get hammered by the ball. Fun stuff.

For the original ramp, I gave cliffy templates for a protector years ago. It is still in the queue.

#608 7 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

This is just too much fun. Glad I picked High Speed for the first ramp mod!

Yep, wise choice, given the age of the ramps, how they were "firsts" being black, and the wide distribution of the game. Very wise choice. Intersection of needs.
-mof

#609 7 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

So Here's the folks that have expressed an interest in this new ramp... I may need to check spelling.
1 Mustang Paul
2 Jeff_PHX
3 Drano
4 Love2k
5 Chaos
6 Harbngr
7 Craig
8 Tony Cip
9 MJW
10 Toyota Boy
11 Mof
12 nvu4prod
13 ottogd
14 Ninjaboot
15 mkoga
16 dsuperbee
17 Silver Spinner
18 Silver Spinner
19 rhoggard
20 Badpenny61
21 Mocean
22 Pac-Fan
23 Lordloss
24 TomGWI
Ordering the plastic today. Bear with me...we are very close.

Hi Freeplay40,

Please add me in to the interest list.

#610 7 years ago
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:

This is completely off topic, but I found it quite funny!
Took this from my truck yesterday at the Turkey Hill:

Chris

504-1.jpeg 167 KB

504-2.jpeg 143 KB

Now that's funny. I'm sure they hear about it all the time.

#611 7 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Now I want to play with some water slide decals....

Actually the Jokerz was done with a flexible opaque plastic (same with the one underneath). A couple tiny spots of double sized clear tape holds it on nicely. Not sure what works better to make, but cross that bridge when you come to it.

#612 7 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

So Here's the folks that have expressed an interest in this new ramp... I may need to check spelling.
1 Mustang Paul
2 Jeff_PHX
3 Drano
4 Love2k
5 Chaos
6 Harbngr
7 Craig
8 Tony Cip
9 MJW
10 Toyota Boy
11 Mof
12 nvu4prod
13 ottogd
14 Ninjaboot
15 mkoga
16 dsuperbee
17 Silver Spinner
18 Silver Spinner
19 rhoggard
20 Badpenny61
21 Mocean
22 Pac-Fan
23 Lordloss
24 TomGWI
Ordering the plastic today. Bear with me...we are very close.

Hey Mark, would you do me a favor and engrave your artograph and number it. Having it signed by the artist would be so cool.

#613 7 years ago
Quoted from Pac-Fan:

Good idea. I have a Jokerz with the clear upper playfield and that has 4 flashers behind it and a red/cream checker pattern on it. Your idea with >>>> on yellow/black is similar and fits with the HS theme.

Thinking something like these then?

jokerzUpperPFbackSticker.jpg 49 KB

9455241-road-sign-indicating-cur... 4 KB

Slim_Solar_Chevron_Sign_3_arrows... 55 KB

chevrons-5502556.jpg 29 KB

I like that and to add to it if someone could figure out how to use the same reflective Scotchlite material used on the real signs, that would REALLY light up. To get REALLY carried away figure out how to use EL paper.

#614 7 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Here are my goals for a bottom-side decal.
1. Block LOS (line of sight) bright white light
2. Block unused playfield (stuff under ramp) (when there's no light there)
3. Create a visual "blend" from playfield street look to the ramp
4. Keep the sides and upper ramp clear to "SEE" ball travel during an orbit shot. To me, this is a BIG reason to get clear ramps. I hate obscured orbit shots...
Here's how I propose it looks. I realize we can have BOTH side treatments and under treatments.
-mof
BEFORE

AFTER

How about making that decal out of something that would some light through and light it up from the underside.

HS-grey.png 1.8 MB

HS.png 1.8 MB

#616 7 years ago

These are 1 scale based off a scan if anyone wants to modify them and run with it:
part1.jpg
part2.jpg

#617 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Hey Mark, would you do me a favor and engrave your artograph and number it. Having it signed by the artist would be so cool.

I see a perfect place to put a numbered decal....

#618 7 years ago
Quoted from xrayman:

Hi Freeplay40,
Please add me in to the interest list.

xrayman...added/edited you onto the list on page 12

#619 7 years ago

Ramp mod is looking nice!

#620 7 years ago

Put in new double leaf switch for the right flipper button (transferring over the two big old orange diodes?) and new EOS switch on both right flippers. Now getting a blown fuse very often that happens exclusively when pressing the right flipper button (and, I think, only when hard enough to activate the upper flipper). Can anyone post a pic of their upper right flipper wiring? Wondering if I wired something incorrectly.

#621 7 years ago

Check your eos switch on the flippers. I bet one is not adjusted properly

#622 7 years ago
Quoted from mof:

note: We still need a hero to create a sticker design for the up ramp.
Any HS owners have mad design skills? I'd propose a simple grey decal with white stripes, and black/white borders that mimics the freeway design on the PF that approaches the ramp...
-mof
Basically, a curved street look like the one approaching the upper left orbit, but with the white borders like the one approaching the ramp. Design doesn't get much easier than this.

likethis1.png 36 KB

likethis2.png 193 KB

Just catching up on this thread after a few days.
The ramp is looking awesome.

I run a small creative studio and have access to several graphic artists... including myself.
If nobody has taken this up yet, I'd be happy to mock up some ideas.

I would simply need some accurate sizing or a proto ramp to work from.
Let me know if I can be of help.

#623 7 years ago

I am offering the lighted police cars at http://mezelmods.com

It's under the High Speed II in 'Shop by games', I just didn't want to leave you guys out.

#624 7 years ago

So I got the GI up and running, but now a few new problems and a few old ones to take care of. When I placed at ball at the upper right san diego hole, the GI dimmed when the coil activated. I'm thinking a GI line is somehow touching a coil wire somewhere.

I've had this problem for awhile, but haven't had a chance to look at it yet. The 1,000 through 4,000 lights when connected stay on. They're a little dimmer and flicker a bit. The 25k light is also always on, even in attract mode.

I un-soldered the wire on the 1k-4k lights and now the "stoplights light escape" lights up really bright for a few seconds and doesn't turn back on.

Any ideas?

#625 7 years ago

Looks like you have a shorted column transistor (Q56) on wire 1J7-7. I suspect if you look close the Red/Yellow/Green lights in the black stop light above the ramp are also on.

As far as the 25K light, thats a bit harder. Fix the easy one to fix that column and then tackle the rest. I assume these are all still incandescent and not LEDs with ghosting issues right? (Ghosting occurs on HS but is very low and not noticeable very much)

hslamp.jpg

#626 7 years ago

Got room for one more?
I'm in!
=)

pics Th night... This pin has a real interesting back story...

And the restoration begins...
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-restoration
-mof

#627 7 years ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

Now getting a blown fuse very often that happens exclusively when pressing the right flipper button (and, I think, only when hard enough to activate the upper flipper).

I'm at work now so I can't get you a pic, but maybe also check the diode across the coil on that flipper? First (and only time) I rebuilt a flipper, I unknowingly blew the diode and every time I activated that flipper it would immediately blow the fuse. Replaced it and all was well.

#628 7 years ago

Okay, here's one:

I can play for hours with no problems. When my son plays (he's just under 4 years old) his rapid flipping blows the flipper fuse. What should I check? EOS, diodes or both?

Thanks.

#629 7 years ago

Check to ensure the right size and type of fuse is installed for the flippers/solenoids. It needs to be a slow blo. Also you could check the EOS and ensure the contacts are clean and there is a 1/8" gap at full extension of the flipper.

Never trust ANY of the fuses in a game until you've inspected every one. Often times they put in larger, other times they may have put in smaller or fast blows.

#630 7 years ago
Quoted from Pac-Fan:

Check to ensure the right size and type of fuse is installed for the flippers/solenoids. It needs to be a slow blo. Also you could check the EOS and ensure the contacts are clean and there is a 1/8" gap at full extension of the flipper.
Never trust ANY of the fuses in a game until you've inspected every one. Often times they put in larger, other times they may have put in smaller or fast blows.

Thanks. I know the fuse is correctly sized. I've replaced it twice, and consulted the manual before doing so.

I'll measure the gap. It's probably his quick flipping isn't letting the switch open so the total voltage draw is too high. Thanks!

#631 7 years ago
Quoted from Mocean:

Thanks. I know the fuse is correctly sized. I've replaced it twice, and consulted the manual before doing so.

Turns out I consulted a misplaced errant williams 2.5A sticker instead of the Sys11 repair guide. 5A, not 2.5A. Problem solved! Thanks. I'm rarely so happy to discover I've been so stupid.

#632 7 years ago

Different Sys11 games have different maximum amp fuse stickers on them based upon the number of solenoids they use. E.g. F-14 would have a higher amp draw than High Speed, than Jokerz. (4 vs 3 vs 2 flippers) All of them have identical boards but different amp stickers on them. The stickers *should* be right, but always doublecheck against the manual, the schematic as well. The Sys11 repair guide I believe shows the maximum the circuit was designed for but you shouldn't use that maximum unless that was the design for the individual game. I know my F14 has a higher amp fuse than High Speed, i ran into it after swapping power boards and not realizing it until it blew.

#633 7 years ago

Schematic and manual show a 5A SB on the flipper board. Thanks.

#634 7 years ago

Clear Ramp update. So after about 12 different designs I have finally nailed it. Attached are photos of the just cut out final design. I will now install it in my machine to confirm all final fits. Some of the things I have accomplished with this new design are:

1 Left side of entrance to ramp is now protected from getting beat by the ball..(Note my original ramp is cracked there)

2. No more cover needed! Now we all know there can be that odd shot once in a great while, but I have yet to bounce out of the ramp.. If you get that really "hot" shot, the worst that will happen is that it might touch the glass, but stays in the ramp.

3. An unanticipated benefit... This thing is incredibly quiet!. If you buy one of these, before you install it, note the sound the ball makes when going up the stock ramp...sort of rattles. When you install the new one you will find almost no sound at all.

4. Uh, you can see through it! I've got a couple decals I'm going to throw on mine just for kicks, that will be illuminated by the rear flashers.

5. On the inside turn of the ramp, there is a plastic above the upper three stop light targets. On mine, that plastic was always in a bind with the ramp. Added room to clear that plastic.

I will follow up with a photo of this latest design installed in my machine....maybe yet today. Once I confirm final fit in my machine, I am going to start producing these. Sorry this has taken me so long, but wanted to get it just right.

Beyond the entrance flap which is included and will be riveted, there are 7 additional rivets necessary to install this in your game. Access to a rivet press is the best. It you attempt to use screws instead of rivets, understand that you will likely have to grind down the heads of the screws so they will not interfere will ball travel. I tried screws initially when I was testing and saw right away that they would be a problem. I am also considering having anyone interested in having me do the riveting, that they send me their pieces (I will post a photo later showing the pieces that need to be riveted) and I will completely assemble the ramp, test fit it in my game and then ship it back. Thinking maybe $20 additional to assemble. This way you will be able to install it immediately into your game.

IMG_0411.JPG IMG_0412.JPG IMG_0413.JPG
#635 7 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Thinking maybe $20 additional to assemble. This way you will be able to install it immediately into your game.

Make the rivets so, #1...
-mof

#636 7 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

So after about 12 different designs I have finally nailed it.

I like that you don't give up at 11.
-mof

#637 7 years ago

IMG_0414.JPGIf anyone is interested in having me rivet/assemble the ramp for them ($20) so that it will be a straight install when you get it, you would need to send me the parts shown in the attached photo. You would need to remove these from your existing ramp.

From left to right...

Diverter switch plate (Send with wire harness attached and I will clean and adjust the switches when I assemble. Also note that I will modify the plate slightly...grind some metal away...in order to rivet tightly)

Diverter switch plate cover (Optional to send...attaches to the diverter switch plate with 2 screws)

Right hand side mounting bracket (Mounts to right side rail)

Outer left side mounting plate (Screws to playfield)

Inner left side ball guide (Rivets to ramp and outer left side mounting bracket.

As you can see my inner ball guide is pretty beat up. I am going to replace mine with a polished piece of .0100 spring steel... thin and strong. Will post a photo of that as well. If anyone has any questions about how to remove the existing ramp let me know...God knows I've taken mine in and out about a dozen times now.

#638 7 years ago

You are a true craftsman and take pride in what you do. Do the 2 switches have diodes on them, I can't remember?

#639 7 years ago

My left side ball guide is beat to crap also, how much for one like your going to make? I'll be sending you my parts.

#640 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

You are a true craftsman and take pride in what you do. Do the 2 switches have diodes on them, I can't remember?

no diodes

#641 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

My left side ball guide is beat to crap also, how much for one like your going to make? I'll be sending you my parts.

Thinking $5 for that piece (takes a lot of polishing to get through the "blue" of the spring steel, but I want to test it in my machine... Here's a photo of one I just made

IMG_0416.JPG

#642 7 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Thinking $5 for that piece (takes a lot of polishing to get through the "blue" of the spring steel, but I want to test it in my machine... Here's a photo of one I just mad

IMG_0416.JPG 122 KB

cool I'll be sending my parts also, I'll have to see what my left side ball guide looks like when I take my melted ramp off.

#643 7 years ago

Important "backglass-saving", 10 minute mod for any System 11 owners...
-mof
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-restoration#post-1618578

#644 7 years ago
Quoted from tonycip:

cool I'll be sending my parts also, I'll have to see what my left side ball guide looks like when I take my melted ramp off.

Probably as beat as ours.

#645 7 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Important "backglass-saving", 10 minute mod for any System 11 owners...
-mof
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-restoration#post-1618578

Ya know, my hs doesn't have that issue for some reason. It is close to the glass, but will not touch it unless I really put effort into opening that pf

#646 7 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Thinking $5 for that piece (takes a lot of polishing to get through the "blue" of the spring steel, but I want to test it in my machine... Here's a photo of one I just made

IMG_0416.JPG 122 KB

Won't that spring steel rust? Isn't the original made out of stainless and isn't stainless harder? Also, isn't using the old torn up one like running a new ball over sandpaper?

#647 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Won't that spring steel rust? Isn't the original made out of stainless and isn't stainless harder? Also, isn't using the old torn up one like running a new ball over sandpaper?

Sticks to a magnet so not true stainless. It also bends very easily. Looks like it was chromed one side.

#648 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Won't that spring steel rust? Isn't the original made out of stainless and isn't stainless harder? Also, isn't using the old torn up one like running a new ball over sandpaper?

Looked around a little on line and it can in fact rust. But it's the same material that ramp flaps are made out of. I know they have some sheet stainless at Lowes so maybe I'll check that out. As far as hardness, it's pretty much impossible to drill the spring steel. I have to use a punch to put holes in it. I'm putting one in my game tonight and I'll see if the ball can mark it.

#649 7 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

If anyone is interested in having me rivet/assemble the ramp for them ($20) so that it will be a straight install when you get it, you would need to send me the parts shown in the attached photo. You would need to remove these from your existing ramp.
From left to right...
Diverter switch plate (Send with wire harness attached and I will clean and adjust the switches when I assemble. Also note that I will modify the plate slightly...grind some metal away...in order to rivet tightly)
Diverter switch plate cover (Optional to send...attaches to the diverter switch plate with 2 screws)
Right hand side mounting bracket (Mounts to right side rail)
Outer left side mounting plate (Screws to playfield)
Inner left side ball guide (Rivets to ramp and outer left side mounting bracket.
As you can see my inner ball guide is pretty beat up. I am going to replace mine with a polished piece of .0100 spring steel... thin and strong. Will post a photo of that as well. If anyone has any questions about how to remove the existing ramp let me know...God knows I've taken mine in and out about a dozen times now.

IMG_0414.JPG 71 KB

PM sent for mailing address.

#650 7 years ago

OK... Final design installed in my machine and working great. One with flash and one without. Note that I have not yet reinstalled the stop light.

IMG_0419.JPG
IMG_0421.JPG

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