Yes - I love the Taxi slingshot kickers. I am convinced. Going to order 2 boards from Weebly. Thanks for the help again.

Here is a pic from a Williams manual. You will need to remove both wires from the sling coil and cut off the diode, now the diode is on the High current driver board. Find a location for mounting each board. Each side will be the same so I will only discuss the right sling going forward. J-1 is the input and J-2 is the output. Find the appropriate 5 space IDC connector for J-2. Install a key in space 4, and install a wire in space 1 and space 5 with the correct punch down tool long enough to reach the coil. Solder both wires to the coil, direction doesn't matter now because the diode is on the board and not the coil. Your half done.

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Now for J-1, find a 6 space IDC connector and install a key in space #3. Take the blue/red wire that you removed from the coil and install it in space #4. Take the red/white wire that you removed from the coil and insulate it as it is not needed anymore. Find the black wire from the sling switches, solder another black wire to this and then connect the other side to space #1 of the IDC connector. Last but not least, find the purple/yellow on the kick back coil under the apron. This purple wire is the 50 volts you need for power. Add a wire to the coil lug and feed it down thru the hole to the bottom of the play field over to space #6 of the IDC connector. Your done. Rinse and repeat for the left sling.

Perfect. Taking the kids away for school vacation then get on it when I get back.

up dating the flipper assembly
the assembly that I ordered have a newer version of the EOS with 2 lugs
the original on the machine the EOS is the old style and has 4 lugs and extra leafs
any idea on what to tie the extra wires into?

never mind
I figured it out

Hey all!
New HS owner here!

When i went into multiball/getaway mode, the game only gave me 2 balls.
1st one locked on the escape ramp shot

As soon as you plunge the 2nd one, it seems to start the multiball. So the 3rd one never enters play

Is this a menu setting or is something reading wrong perhaps?

I had the same thing happen a while back.

It's usually a shooter lane switch issue if I'm not mistaken. It's either miss-adjusted or not working.

Possible ball trough switch issue also.

I'm in. Had High Speed for a long time, but just starting to mod it now.

Check that your ramp and hide-out switches are working correctly.

Thanks everyone for the posts

I fired it back up and it worked as expected for 3/3 multiballs so i dunno what the deal was

I'll keep these in mind if they show back up!

I finally rolled this game for the first time. Until now, my highest score was 5-6 million, which i had managed to get a handful of times. I scored 12,438,780!

Factory settings on 3 ball play. I ran 6 red lights, but only managed to collect 1 jackpot (at 1.6 million) and too many extra balls to keep count of! Lots of maxed out bonus and multipliers and lots of 100k freeways. I don't know how long the game lastest, but it was long and fun.

Image showing score at the end of the game as well as high score entry showing the machine rolled over. and yes, i did screw up putting my initials in. The right side displays are messed up, so i can't actually see the letters when i put them in. I miss counted the number of flipper presses.

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Can a 4-inch silicone ring be made to work on the back wall? Seems I've got about 900 of those damn things from the PBL "value" ring kits. Seems nothing I have ever puts those to use.

It appears that Titan finally sells some 5" rings, but I can't seem to find any from anywhere else. If 4" will work...that's what I'll use. But if I have to make a separate order, I don't suppose I have much choice. The white rubber I put on it when I installed my hardtop is absolutely filthy now.

Iirc I used titan transparent 4 inch on mine. I had to stretch them a bit before installing.

Bought a HS in factory condition this week. Already did the first mod

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My HS is in new condition (see photos), the plafield is clearcoated.
Does it make sense to buy a playfield protector?

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If it has been clear coated, I would say no.

If original then yes.

I am sure it's coated. Same shine and level on the playfield and the visible wooden parts too. Looks really good.

2 more questions
Sorry for the lot of posts, I am new to Pinball (in terms of owning).

- It's nice that the targets colour matches the lamp colour, but the design could be better. Are there any nice stickers available for them?

- Does anyone know what is the difference between the ROM versions? My machine is in German by default, luckily English is also available. On the display, it shows G3. The U27 ROM version is REV3, the U26 ROM version is PROTO3. I know that the latest version is L-4. But does it makes sens to replace these?

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Finally had a decent game of High Speed. Managed to score 7.7 million, which is a good score for me. Lots of fun when that happens.

Gotta love a new pf...

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Love it, picked mine up 5 years ago playfield is eeehhh, this was my favorite pin in the eighties. My cabinet has slight planking and looking to add new decals, does anyone know if I would be able to just apply decals over the old graphics or do I need to sand down the cabinet first before applying new decals?
Thanks

Prep is king - little prep shitty cab....

What is the purpose of the hole right at the end of the lower flippers?

Alignment. From the factory there was a small drift pin that the flippers would rest on and they would tighten them. Pin was then drove down into the playfield. Assembly line stuff.

Got it, thanks for the feedback.

I picked up a High Speed a few weeks ago for my first pin. It needed some love for sure and I've got it playing almost perfect with help from friends and this wonderful site. I'm pretty new to the world of pinball repair and I'm stuck on a couple things I was hoping someone could help me with. The thing that is bothering me more than anything is that there is no background sound. Switches, call out, attract mode all work. I first pulled, cleaned and re seated the roms on the sound board. Re flowed the headers. New ribbon cable. Re pinned J16 from the main board to the sound board. Bought and installed a new sound rom. All of this and no change at all. Not one sound of background music.

Second thing is the displays. Speeder one and two have dotted lines through the center of the displays. The picture does not show it all the way through on player two but it is. Camera didn't capture it. All I've done for this is a new ribbon cable from the main board to the display board. Pull and re seat the ribbon cables on the displays. Re flow the headers on the main board.

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Maybe contact Chris Hibler and have him refresh your boards. He did great work on my Taxi boards and installed nvram.

For the displays, I’d just replace them with Xpin and you’ll never have a problem. Good luck, it’s my favorite old school game!

I reached out to Chris. He said that he is so backed up he couldn't even quote me a time that he could work on them.

Maybe try Coin Op Cauldron? They were another choice I considered but he was too backed up at the time.

I'll give them a try. Thanks

I have a really nice original back glass I have been holding onto for years, but thinning the parts stash. $200 plus shipping, I am in NC and pickup is preferable. I do a a custom made back glass box if shipping is a must.

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Sold!

Eugene Mosh could be another option for you.

Thanks.

I found a rulesheet which says slingshots score 10 points. It seems none of my slingshots score. I will test them without glass later, or it's probably a setting?

And one more thing. In case I run the red light, but the shot is weak, the ball lands in the first hideout. I receive the getaway message, and a new ball is loaded.
If I shot this too weak, it lands in the first hideout. And from this point, nothing happens. Have anyone experienced the same?

Are there any "mission impossible shots" topic? How the hell I did this?

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Slignshot scores:
Left is counting 10 points, but if the scoring is too frequent (tried without glass), there are shot which are not registered. I guess the ball cannot be that fast to return. But the right slingshot doesn't score anything. I think there must be a switch responsible for scoring which is out of order. Am I right?

Hiding in the trees...a whole new level of clever!

Anyone running Comet 2SMD LED's in their game? Leaning towards 2SMD sunlight white for all GI and inserts and 1SMD behind the backglass. I've been happy with the sunlight white as a happy medium between cool/warm white on past games. If so, please post some pics! Thanks

I use Comet cool white 2SMD bulbs on every game that doesn’t have factory LEDs. With the frosted dome they are exactly what I want. I hobby operate and everything pre-2013 (or whenever stern moved to factory LED) gets these in the GI and inserts. EMs just get them for GI and then I use non-ghosting bulbs for inserts. Haven’t bought those in so long that I can’t remember exactly which ones.

You have a pic of your game all lit up?

2smd sunlight frosted for GI in all of my games. Cool were too bluish (is that a word?) for my tastes. For my eyes, sunlight is the perfect hue between the blue hint of cool and yellow hint of warm.

Have a pic? Exactly the direction I’m leaning. You use 1SMD in the backbox?

I use 2smd everywhere, strategically eliminating bulbs in the backbox if necessary. Sorry, no pics available- it’s in Florida at our winter place.

In all the G.I. I am using Comet 2SMD sunlights LED in my game. I like it very much. On the other hand, I am using non-comet brand LED for all my inserts. It is because I run out of Comet LED If I made my order tomorrow. I will order 2SMD for all my insert with a few non-ghosts LEDs, plus I will use cool white for my black glass.
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That looks really sharp! To me, the colors looks exactly the way they should when lit up. Thanks!

I have two small issues:
- right slingshot doesn't give points? (ok, just 10 points lost, so this is not something big issue)
- occasionally saucer doesn't register the ball lock --> no points, no stop lamp / escape / extra ball, and need to wait until it starts searching for the ball
Usually this happens when the ball arrives with very high speed. (funny)

Both of those sound like switch issues. Do both register in the switch test?

The sling shots are 'special' solenoids, so the triggering switch should be separate from the scoring switch. Going from memory, the scoring switch is closed by the mechanism moving. Look underneath for it.

The saucer is a normal looking switch. May just need its contacts cleaned.

As far as I know, "If a switch is not activated in 30 games, or is permanently closed, the switch is assumed to be bad."
This was the situation with my right outlane. I have received the error message about it when powering on. Adjusted the switch, and now it works perfectly.
But strangely the test shows the following items
10 - ball through left
11 - ball through center
12 - ball through right
Now have more questions than answers. I will check the saucer. But as I have mentioned, that is working normally 99%. It seems it is not working when the spinner is spinning like crazy

Are there 3 balls in the game? If not, is it possible the game is saying switches that should be closed (10/11/12) are not closed?

If there are 3 balls in the game, those 3 switches are column 2 (Green-Red wire). I would look at the green-red wire that daisy chains between the outhole switch (switch #9) to ball trough #3 (switch 10).
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I definitely have 3 balls according to multiball I have not experienced any problems with balls. I will check these too.