Anyone have a new CPR playfield? Curious to see if others have issues with theirs. I got one, my first CPR playfield, I’m not impressed. As much shit as everyone talks about Mirco, I was expecting so much better from CPR.

I bought a Fish Tales playfield from them last summer, the black text was blurry and the shooter lane switch slot was not cut out. Inserts were also a bit lower.
Sent it back and got another which was ok except 2 edges got damaged, the inserts were level. Had to to put rails on both sides as it started to warp in a couple of weeks in a climate controlled room! Inserts are near enough level still after 8 months, fitting this summer.
Oh and the orange sunset is not very orange. Clear coat looks ok and hard.

Digital print now so will not look as good as original close up.

Yeah it’s not good, text is very grainy. I guess dimples are no longer a thing, just some weird pressed circles that are not even close to accurate. Edit: maybe they are laser etched…

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I bought a CPR gold for my HS about 8 years ago and I'm am very happy and no issues.

Mee too, for the most part. The only issue I had with mine was that the dimples were not really very accurate. In CPR's defense, they probably matched them to a donor playfield and the holes were not perfectly aligned from initial production. I found this mostly on the standup targets. I realigned those before drilling. I did two High Speed playfield swaps and both turned out great.

Those older CPR playfields we’re screen printed and graded, good old days.

This is from the newest-ish batch ordered January 2023. I understand small inaccuracies here and there, but no markings are useable. The accuracy seem like an alignment issue, gets worse the further you go down the playfield. Just expected better from them. It is what it is.

Yeah, I’ve been told this. Someone told me to use some kind of clear plastic sheet that sticks to use as a template to transfer the holes accurately.
Good luck!

Just played a few games on my High Speed and am convinced that this machine is pinball perfection.

The layout, light show, sounds, and the story integration just make it such a fun machine.

Thanks Steve!

Chris

I agree. It is really good.

I recently put in a led strip in the trough of my game and was surprised at how easy it was. I am wondering if anyone has found good places to put led strips around the playfield. I think the game is pretty bright as it is. I was thinking maybe under the ramp would be a good spot.

I like using light up posts at the sling shots, and a led strip under the cabinet top shining down on the top part of the play field.

When you say under the cabinet top do you mean on the bottom of the back box? Or do you mean on the back wall behind and under the ramp? And I AM NOT doing what you did to your back box with the led strips on wood. No chance I could do that without creating more problems.

Not the bottom of the back box, the wood underneath this piece of wood.

Easy project that can be done in an hour, I can make one for you if you want.

GRUMPY is there a photo of the light strip mod you use to light up the top part of the playfield? My High Speed would benefit from some lighting up there. Thank you!

No, I don't have any pics. Nothing special here, get a Comet 20 inch led strip in your favorite color. Mount it right behind the plastic glass channel at the top of the cabinet facing down. Add a 36 inch matrix extension wire up thru the hole in the back box and over to the hinge side of the insert board. Add this wire to the wire bundle going to th GI lamps on the insert board. I cut off the end of the matrix extension wire and solder it to a GI lamp socket. Easy Peasy Lemon Squeezy.

I like the light under the ramp. Did you put it in front or behind the switches in the ramp? Where did you run the wires?

When I play it's got that "just one more game" feeling. From what I've heard it was a huge money earner.
-Pinball Mayhem Jeremy

I just added a clear bumper in the back to light up everything. Also added more freeway signs on the backboard to make it look more realistic.

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I think the 4" led strip under the ramp and behind the switches is the way to go to light up the back of the playfield.

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I'm in the middle of re-wiring the GI connector on the Power Supply Board (to 3J8). The schematics show 8 wires, but I have 9. Should there be 2 yellow wires connected to pin 4 on 3J8? (the wires were hanging loose so I have nothing to go by).

I tried confirming via the schematics in the instruction manual, but I can't reconcile the color scheme for the wires in the power wiring diagram on page 47 (which looks to be erroneously marked as "3J6"?) with the color scheme for the same connector described on page 50. I'm not an electronics guy so maybe it's just me?

Yes 2 yellow wires, see pic

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First, thanks!

Second, holy crap! Your wiring doesn't match the Power Wiring Diagram or the Interboard Signals Diagram in the manual. Am I misunderstanding the manual?

Talk about being paralyzed with fear!
Thanks though.

You can see that they mislabled the power supply side of the connector, it should read 3J8. Now you can see that pins 1-4 are tied together on the back of the power supply, so it really doesn't matter which color goes to which pin. Same goes for pin 6-9 as they are together too. But as for the 2 yellow wires, they go together on the same pin just like Mike's pic of his power supply. Solid colors on pins 1-4 and stripes on 6-9.

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That all now makes perfect sense. Thanks!

Pingeeknorth your welcome, Glad I could help alittle. That's what is all about.
Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words
So the saying goes.

I've got a question for you guys. My left flipper seems to cut out on me sometimes while playing. I've cleaned the end of stroke switch and the left flipper button switch and re-soldered the wire connections on the flipper coil. Anything else I should look into?

It's just a momentarily loss of flipper power and the flipper goes dead for a second. Then I press the flipper button some more and it returns to normal.

Thanks for your thoughts.

This pin has evaded me for awhile now, but no longer. Officially a member of the club and excited to start digging in. Will sit next to Comet.

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You can rule out the EOS switch by placing a jumper wire across it and then play it WITH OUT cradling the ball. If you get no problems then it is the EOS switch.

If you still have issues then check out these pins for cracked solder joints, loose wires or pins not inserted into the connector fully.

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GRUMPY Thanks for the help. Are you talking about using a test lead with alligator clips to go across the end of stroke switch tabs?

Yes.

Do not touch the lane change switch with the jumper.

I use home made light strips to light mine up. Very happy with being able to see. Pics with normal play and lights on. My phone camera added light to the stock one but it is quite dark.

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Looks nice. It’s lit so well it almost looks like a photo from a VR version or something.

Gorgeous original playfield. Most machines i see are worn to wood on the outlanes.

Thanks! Has some wear at the top where the mylar ends, but no complaints.

I have a High Speed and a Taxi. The slingshot kickers on the Taxi are much livelier than the kickers on my High Speed. The High Speed has A-23-800-03 coils and the Taxi has AE-26-1500 coils. Can I put the AE-26-1500 coils on my High Speed to make the kickers a little livelier. Or is there a better coil that I should use for my High Speed kickers.

The Taxi uses 50 volts for the sling shot coils, High Speed uses 25 volts at the sling shot coils. The 23-800 coil is the strongest coil that a TIP 122 can handle. If you were to install a high current driver board for each sling shot coil you could up the voltage to 50 volts and they would be much stronger.

There is a person on pinside that sells a board C-13963. Is that what I need - 1 for each kicker? And is it worth it - Maybe HS was not meant to have such lively kickers. Or did the 50v kicker only become available after HS in 1986. I like mods if I think the original would have had the mod if it was available when the game was built.

There is a Pinsider here that makes boards for pinball machines, here is a pic of his board that he sells for 20 dollars.pasted_image (resized).png

You would need 2 boards and 2 new coils for the mod. When Williams made the system 11B series they added the Aux power driver board which had 8 high current transistors so these games could control 8 50 volt coils/magnets. High Speed had to use relays for the 50 volt coils, which react to slow for the sling shot action.

Thank you. Does that picture mean you have tried this. BTW - You are the ONLY reason I and many other people wish they lived in MN.

Recently Joined the club. Starting a shop job. I have a few issues:
My Main one is this
any ideas on how to reattach this post

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I like: Filling the hole with a combination of glue and sawdust - try to get it pretty smooth. Let it harden. Sand it down a little. Get a black paint pen and color it over. Drill a new hole. Put in the connector.

My local expert told me to change my slingshot rubber from black to white and adjust the slingshot kicker switches as sensitive as possible and that would be the best I could do. Plus the guy with the high current boards only has 1 to sell. So I guess that ends that. Now my weekend is wide open.

Yes, and others too.

Correct, this is the best you can do without wiring changes. Also if you haven't yet, replace the cap on the switch.

My guy has them!

https://nvram.weebly.com/wms-high-current-driver.html

thank you

Does it make the game play better? I like the idea of doing it.

When I adjust the rubber on my slingshots I sometimes make them real tight thinking that I can then set the switches real close and it will play great. Now I am thinking that maybe I set the rings too tight so that when the ball hits them lightly there is so much tension on the rubber that the ball does not move the rubber and does not activate the switch. I am now thinking that if the rubber is a little loose it will move more easily and the slingshot kickers will be a little livelier. Does that make sense.

Tightness does play a part, but the rubber hardness is more important. White rubbers are quite a bit softer which makes them more reactive.

Didn't you feel the difference between Taxi and High Speed? After this mod they are stronger than Taxis'.