That backglass has such vivid reds

I love what you did with the speakers!

Excellent work on the re-stencil! I think Marco has the beacon motor. Make sure whatever you use is a 24V motor.

Mine does this too, I have reflowed the connectors on the sound board but still does it. Mostly at turn on I don’t get the bong and I know the music will not come on, if I tap the backglass it will bong then work or if I just leave it for 5 mins or so it will work.

I have wiggled connectors etc but still can’t work it out so have just left it, one day it will be fixed!

Motor was replaced via Marco. All is well. Did have an odd issue with the background board. It would never turn off at end of game. Seems a chip was bad. Put in new board and presto, fully functional perfect high speed!

Thank you. Pinball pimp stencils are great. Plus I love to customize the paint color when I can.

Proud dad here. My six year old daughter completed the stoplights and “got away” on her own. The huge smile on her face made getting the pin worthwhile all on its own.

Awesome. My daughter was 10 when I got the first pin. She drew a picture of it and I still have it 14 years later. She also posted a YouTube of herself playing it.

Hi
Anyone convert to led displays and have 2 working lower numeric displays they would like to sell. Please pm me

I'm rebuilding a High Speed that came to me in parts. Can someone tell me where these parts go? (not the usb stick which is for scale ) Thanks, David.

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They are covers for the two relays under the playfield by the hide out kickouts. That is what I think they are anyway.

You can just see them in my photo above the flash bulbs.

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Thank you jetmechinnc .

Hi fan here kind of, I posted this same question in the secret service club but I'm hoping to get a more rounded feedback: Might be getting one fingers crossed. It's beat up but plays. Going to try and test out all the features before purchase. OK so my real question: there is also a high speed available near me and I see it's ranking as wayyyyyy higher and everybody says how great it is even though the games are similar. In my opinion secret service seems like it has way more going on and is therefore more fun. What say you? Why is one better over the other? Especially answer if you own both or have played both. Just curious thanks guys.

Rankings are just opinions.
Yes, Secret Service has more features than high speed.
It's a couple years newer, so more was expected at the time.
I prefer the simplicity of High Speed for the game that it is.
There is some truth to the claim that Data East games of that era feel a bit "clunky", while Williams feel more smooth and solid.

Secret Service is a pretty good game, and if you prefer it, that's fine.
Maybe be sure that no hard to find parts are missing or damaged on the one you are looking at. Williams parts are a bit easier to find than Data East.

thank you, i do feel like some pinball machines feel a bit more clunky or almost kind of plasticky or kiddish when you hit the ball. I can definitely feel an extreme version of it when I play an old school game versus a new stern or something for sure. Do you feel that high speed has a better feel on the flippers than secret service, because that is a huge factor for me for sure!

Maybe "different". Not better or worse. Those early Data East games definitely have killer strong flippers when working correctly. Seems like they are about to snap off targets and smash plastics.

I was going to say this very thing. After I play one of my System 11 machines like High Speed or Earthshaker, and then play my Data East Simpsons or Time Machine, it's odd. They feel very different as RCA1 said, but not worse. They are plenty strong, but definitely feel different.

If the Secret Service is working well, I'd get it. It's a fun game.

Chris

High Speed is my "just one more" game. None of my other games have that magic to that degree. Every time I stream it, it's still just as much fun when I make it up the ramp to get into multiball as it ever was.

-Pinball Mayhem Jeremy

Sometimes I only get 2 balls on multiball on my high speed. is that normal?

Yes. When multi ball starts, you have to shoot Ball 2 into the ramp and lock it in order for Ball 3 to come out. If you don’t make it into the ramp from the plunge, you’ll only get two balls.

vidguy is correct. One other thing that can cause a 2 ball mulitball is a bad or incorrectly adjusted trough switch.

Thanks for the input. Also do you know what these are for (circled in red)?

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Thanks for the input. Also do you know what these are for (circled in red)?

It's just one of those things that "is". Might have been placed to keep the ball from being trapped under the wire form ramp.

That is directly under the wire track. A ball could potentially get stuck between the plastic and wire rail.

What's your opinion's on the new freeway signs, stoplight and CHP cruiser that has red and blue alternating flashing lights on top when the siren goes off? Just having fun with this High Speed. OVER lol.

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I have that stoplight and Freeplay40's clear ramp. I like both.
The freeway signs are pretty good, but not my thing.
Not a fan of the car, but your opinion matters more than mine for your game.

Do what you want with your game.
Please don't get carried away with mods that just clutter the game up, and please don't LED color spam the GI lighting.

Yeh I'm not to sure about the car either but I do like the signs. It does resemble the cluster fk freeway systems in LA. lol

I have a working set of 4 displays, lower right is out if someone is looking

So feeling confident since I just rebuilt the PSB on my Taxi - I finally decided to rebuild the power supply on my HS. Reflowed the pins, replaced the capacitors it all looked pretty good. Put the PSB back in the machine. Turned on the machine. The machine dinged a couple times, a 0 came up on the red led on the main board and ADJUST FAILURE came up on the screens. I feel like this has happened before but do not have the energy to track down my old posts. Does anyone have an idea as to what I screwed up this time?

Dead batteries? Change batteries and do a reset.

I did a reset and the game worked. Then I shut it off and when I turned it on the ADJUST FAILURE came back on. I took out the batteries and they tested fine but they were a little warm when I removed them....Do not remember them being warm before.

The batteries should never be warm. It sounds like they are being charged, and non rechargeable batteries don't like that. It will cause them to leak too.

D-2 is a small blocking diode, it allows battery voltage to pass thru to the ram chip U-25 when the power is off. It blocks the 5 volts from the power supply from charging the batteries when the power is on.

Use your DMM on diode test and see if it is shorted.

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Not sure I did this right but with the game off I put the black connector to the banded side of the diode and the red to the other side - dmm was in Ohm 2K test mode - I got a reading of 620. When I reversed the connectors I got the same reading. That does not seem right to me.

That doesn't seem right to me either. I would remove it and replace it.

Can I use a 1N4004 to replace the 1N4001 that is there? It looks like I can.

Yes.

Not sure that is going to fix the problem. When I took the diode out it tested fine. I did replace it but is there something else I could have done to the PSB that would make the batteries not work when the game is off.

The one thing I did that I was not sure of was this: In the lower right corner of the PSB there are 4 yellow wires connected directly to the PSB. One of the wires - the one in the lower left corner - was not connected to the board. I assumed that I somehow disconnected this wire so I soldered it back into place. I am not sure that this wire was connected originally but I assume that it was.

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I am not good at reflowing the solder on pins. I do not have access to a schematic…Is it possible I screwed up reflowing a pin that would cause the batteries to not save information when the game is off.

Remove the batteries and post a good pic of the battery holder area.

Let me go back a little - I replaced D2 on the PSB but now I realize you wanted me to check D2 on the CPU Board. Let me do that. Here is a picture of the battery holder. The batteries were working fine until I took out the PSB and messed around with it. Had to be something I did.

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When I check D2 on the CPU using the dmm set to diodes - I get a reading of 630 in one direction and no reading in the other direction.

By my terrible analysis - I must have screwed up reflowing the pins of 3J6 on the PSB since some grey wires seem to go direct from the PSB to the CPU 1J17. Here is a picture of the solder on those pins. Here is a picture of those pins - Wow I did not realize I was THAT bad.

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If that is a .630 and a OL in the other, this is fine.

Are you using solder flux?

The bottom contacts of the battery holder look great, can you get a pic showing the top contacts?

Ok...Reflowed my pins on the PSB. New problem: Turn the game on - Lights go on - Try to start a game - The engine revs up like it is going to start a game but then stops right when the ball is supposed to be put into the shooter and the ball does not get put into the shooter. When I do a diagnostic I get issues with the center trough and right trough. And you wonder why I hate touching these machines.

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The new problem was because I forgot to set machine in Free Play every time i turn it on.

Working on these old machines, it's the same as working a Chevy truck from the rust belt that has 400,000 miles on it. Every time you open the hood, some of the body falls off. Now if you fully restore it, chances are it will last another 40 years with minor repairs and cleaning.

The battery holder is bad, this is why you get the adjust failure. C-30 is original and should also be replaced for avoiding future problems.

Thanks Grumpy. Just surprised that battery issue came up right when I played around with the PSB. Not a big fan of coincidence - Always think something caused something. I would love to just replace the nvram but the chip I have does not have a socket. Maybe I will just replace with another holder - I use lithium batteries and replace them pretty regularly so that should not be an issue. I will let you know if I have any more problems.

Before I went to sleep last night - I looked at the pictures that I sent showing the upper connections on my battery holder. I realized they were s mess so I took some sandpaper and cleaned them up. Put the batteries back in and when I woke up this morning the game had saved all the information and was ready to go. I will be replacing the battery holder as soon as I get a new one. Thanks Grumpy...Again!!

With the battery holder contacts corroded like that, they can lose connection with the battery with any movement like removing the power supply.

I don't use nvram on my machines. I just use lithium batteries too. Don't worry about them, replace them every 5 years.