Wow, this is great to have a forum for High Speed. I picked one up back around 2005 from a guy on Long Island. It gave me a couple years of fun, but one day it crapped out and has been collecting dust in my man town since. Got around to cleaning it up the other day and was able to get it working, well, that is I remembered the left flipper solenoid must have heated up and frozen.

Not sure if it's better to post a new thread on this issue or simply report it here for help. Let me know the general procedure for asking for help?

I purchased a new solenoid, specifically this one: ebay.com link: itm which is supposedly the stock solenoid accoring to the parts list. Problem is the one it's replacing has two diodes, not one. Simply soldering it back resulted in very weak action. Is there a simple fix for this (like re-using the diodes), or will it involve some re-wiring. I read some flippers are in series and some parallel. Could this be causing my issue? I understand there could be mechanical issues, contact points, etc... it just seems as though it's not getting the full 50v of power which leads me to believe it's component, wiring driven.

Any help appreciated!

Mark O

I'm relatively new here, so I might not have the social conventions completely down yet. But I have the impression that tech questions likely to be easily answered without much investigation belong in the "club" thread, while more complicated ones are better posted in a separate thread where a lot of back-and-forth can be done without cluttering the club thread.

As for your specific issue, I'm not an expert on flipper design (as evidenced by the question I posted earlier ), but I assume I found the same useful articles online that you already have, e.g. https://homepinballrepair.com/pinball-flipper-rebuilding-how-to-fix-and-replace/. The author writes that they are unsure whether serial and parallel coils are wired the same, but it may be that the new solenoid you purchased, a serial coil since it has just one diode, is not compatible with the connections required for a parallel coil.

It does make sense that the hookups would be different, since the EOS switch has a slightly different behavior depending on whether the coil is serial or parallel.

Looking at my own machine, I have a serial coil, so I expect that's what's "stock", meaning your machine got converted to parallel at some point (apparently that's a thing). If you want to connect a new coil the same as the old, you'd have to have a parallel coil. But as I understand it, conversion is simply keeping the connections correct, so in theory you could revert back to a serial coil, as long as you change the connections appropriately.

This would involve understanding which terminals go to which sets of windings (whether serial or parallel, the coil has two different sets of windings), and making sure that you configure the connections so that the EOS switch is bypassing the "hold" windings when closed, for the serial coil. I would guess there's a diagram online somewhere that says exactly what the terminals on the coil are, but I would guess you could tell just by checking the resistance, since the hold windings should have a lot more resistance than the power windings.

I don't know off the top of my head what changes to the connections you'd need to make, but I did find several web pages discussion converting to/from parallel and serial coils. In case you haven't already seen them:
https://www.thisweekinpinball.com/pinball-u/vids-guide-rebuilding-flippers/
https://groups.google.com/g/rec.games.pinball/c/wscS_REZHO8
https://groups.google.com/g/rec.games.pinball/c/7w_ylCWpvHo/m/sPUKBGMuEAAJ
https://groups.google.com/g/rec.games.pinball/c/qltr_0C-l1Y

That should hold you until someone more knowledgeable pipes up. Hope that helps!

Thanks Pete. So it sounds like the coils were either replaced with parallel, or maybe Williams made the switch somewhere down the line during production. It seems to me that the easier fix would be to replace the coil with the previous one in place. All I can see for numbers on the coil is 60-5310, but I've also read the parallel coil is a FL-11630. Maybe that's the way I'll go since I really don't have a lot of experience with solid state electronics. I will make an attempt to check the resistance using the Fluke.

My pics for my flashers aren’t the best after I tore it down. Course I have no idea if the game even worked because it was just a wreck siting in a tractor trailer for 30 years with the batteries installed that I’m trying to bring back.

Can anyone confirm the color wires going to the flashers? The ones under the playfield were never desoldered. In some of my photos like the back flashers on top of the playfield, the black is going to the case and the red to the bottom. For the two flashers on the left side, the red and orange wires seem to be going to the case or upper solder point and the black goes to the bottom. Does it make a difference?

Thank you for your help.

Looks like part # "60 5310" is from some no-name brand, possibly custom part from Pinball Life? Here's a similar discussion about the same issue, and which suggests that the FL-11630 you intend to use is exactly right: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/weird-flipper-coil-on-my-riverboat-gambler

Parallel does appear to have some advantages, so seems like you might as well stick with that, since it'll make your life easier and it might be better for the machine anyway.

Why don't you post a pic of both lower flippers and then I could help a bit.

It only makes a difference when you use leds that are polarity sensitive. Technically the center terminal is for the positive voltage.

Grumpy, I assume you're referring to the coils. The flippers (at least from the top of playfield side) look fine.
The new coil is the blue one in the photos, the yellow one is the old one.

I also have an image I found online that shows the single diode coil.

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You can't always go by the diode to tell what type of coil you have, but you can always tell by how the windings are connected.

Your old coil is a parallel wound coil, power is fed both windings at the same time.

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Your new coil is a series wound coil, power is fed to the thick winding first and then to the thin winding.

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Pop Bumper - Slingshot issue:

My High Speed has been working great until the sound went out. I realized that by fiddling around and putting some pressure on the 3J6 connector on the Power Supply Board that I could get the sound to work. I know I need to pull that PSB and redo the pins and replace the caps but the game has been playing so good that I do not want to try to fix something and screw up something else unless I really have to. Anyway after playing with the 3J6 connector to get the sound to work - Now the pop bumpers and slingshots will not work. The lights are on but the solenoids will not fire.
Question: Could playing around with the 3J6 connector have caused the problem with the pop bumpers and if so what pins on 3J6 would be the issue? I was under the impression that the power to those solenoids came through connector 3J3 - pins 6-8 - which I did not touch. I have checked fuse F4 and it is fine.

Yes the connector can stop the special solenoids from working by the ground being bad to the activation switches. If my memory serves me I think it was the white wire on pin 15.

Anyway you know what you need to do, REBUILD the power supply! It won't cause any new issues, and in the long run it may keep you from having more issues in the future. If this isn't in your wheel house then send to me and I will do it for you very reasonable.

Doing a little digging into different forums and especially reading as much as I can that Grumpy has written on this issue - it seems as though 3J6 pin 14 could be my problem. On my schematic this pin shows as N/C - However on my machine there is a white wire connected at Pin 14. Could that wire and connection be the issue?

Pin 14, pin 15, I was close. See that what happens when you get old you can't remember shit.

Thanks Grumpy - I was reading some of your old posts while you responded. I know I need to rebuild the PSB and I have all the equipment to do it. I will do it and if I screw it up - You will be getting a little package in the mail - sometimes my desoldering does not go great although I do now have a Pro'sKit desoldering gun. As always - Thanks for your help.

Played around - such a technical term - with the 3J6 connector pin 14 and got everything working...temporarily I am sure since I have a piece of electrical tape keeping some pressure on it. BUT I do know that the PSB needs to be rebuilt. Thanks again Grumpy!!

I've been cleaning up a High Speed and in checking over the transformer power wiring I think there is something that could be clearer in the manual. I've marked up what I think the wire colour should it be. Might help somebody one day.
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I've got some strange issues with my fairly new to High Speed. When the game first came home (about a month ago) I noticed the left sling isn't firing. I don't have a lot of experience with these things so I called a local guy that helped me before and he swapped out the coil. That did us no good. We cleaned the leaf switches and tested all of the wires and we have power everywhere we should. He pulled the MPU out and took it back to his house to check it over and replace what I think he said was the coil transistor (?- might be using the wrong words) but upon returning yesterday the sling still does not fire. Even when the game does a test the coil won't fire. Apparently the signal is sent to the board but it won't send the signal back to fire the coil. Anyways that was the only problem to begin with.

This is where it gets weird. My step son and I occasionally play a few games on the weekend and as the board is back we decided we try the High Speed again as it plays fine just doesn't have the left sling firing. So if you select a single player game it everything plays as it should but this time when I selected a second player it automatically awards player 1 with a ramp bonus of 60k points. This is before the ball is even launched to start the game. Only player 1 gets the points. None for second player. Then as soon as player 1 launches the ball it grabs it for a second ramp bonus. Now the game never did this prior to having the board out.

Any ideas why it would award ramp bonus points when selecting 2 player game?

The left sling could be U-38, U-45, U49, Q-74, Q-75, SR-20 or a bad trace or solder joint. I think you need to test before replacing any more parts. As far as the other issue it could be a lot of things from a loose chip, bad chip socket or alkaline damage.

Grumpy, thanks for the reply. Can you expound on the U-38, U-45 etc? Where or what are those and is there a way to test them? And on the second deal, would the loose chip thing be on the Main board? I'm guessing yes as that's the only board we messed with. Just try to re-seat them I would assume?

Sorry for noob questions but this is all over my knowledge level on these things.

Don't be sorry for asking questions. Your issue was with special solenoid #1. Here is a blown up section of the schematics for special solenoid #1. I highlighted the most common part failures. But I recomend testing first instead of shotgun parts replacement. A logic probe is a cheap and very handy tool for testing these parts. Something like this will work.

https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwj887_U7J37AhUVLLMAHcXtCisYABAIGgJ5bQ&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESa-D2tNLQ7_IJJirBhHetHZedvb8upUt-P_Y9OgrH_bdmIGDUj9Rgv0DcoIVy3HXsOBalCub1pJe_tn2tYVeX6MioVXB2Iay9XaXc9erfmQbQAc4gZGGKNeok40at3N6EPR25frIO_76MrbC2&sig=AOD64_2dJD4qx9ErrKlJFVQRfwAnXOKkrg&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjtobXU7J37AhX5jokEHWoDASsQww8oAnoECAQQDQ&adurl=

special solenoid #1 (resized).png

I've ordered the tool in the link, thanks for that. I'd like to tell you I understand the schematic but I'd be lying to you. We're going to have a look at it this weekend when I'm home. Out of town with work this week.

No worries, I will help you understand this circuit. Going forward you will find that the rest of the control circuits for other coils and flash lamps are the same, so learn how to troubleshoot one and your good for others.

A good place to start testing any problem is in the middle of the circuit. That being said U-45 is where I start. U-45 is a TTL level NOR gate chip. It is a 14 pin chip that has 4 NOR gates and a power and ground pin. Each of the logic gates has 2 inputs and 1 inverted output. I start by checking the inputs first, pin 11 is the enable signal that should be a high level in attract mode, it should go low when a game is started or you put it in test. Pin 12 has 2 input signals, the signal A comes from the PIA chip, the other comes from the sling switch. Now since the coil doesn't work in test or game play, I don't think pin 12 is the problem. But you can test it anyway for good measure, it should be high during a game and go low when you touch the sling switch. Or it will be high with low pulses during coil test. Now for the output at pin 13, it is normally low and will go high only when both inputs go low at the same time. This high output turns on the smaller signal transistor Q-74. When Q-74 turns on, it outputs a high signal turning on the driver transistor, which grounds the voltage comming from the coil making the coil fire.

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Quick update. I should have started with the basics. The switch was

Thanks Grumpy!
I'm very excited to be playing this game again. Was my favorite back in highschool.

Quick question,
I noticed the coil is getting very hot, to the point where you can't touch it after about 15-20 minutes of play. I "think" the issue may be the low power feed is constant. It's probably how it melted 10 years ago. Any idea what could be causing it? Seems like it might be a could be a closed circuit.

Most likely is the EOS switch is not adjusted correctly. How about a pic with the flipper in the down position and pic in the up position.

That is the worst EOS I have seen in a long time. It should look like this. Time for new ones.

pasted_image (resized).png

I should probably swap out the whole switch assembly?
It looks unique. I just need to make sure I buy the correct one.

Thanks for your help Grumpy!

this is what you need.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-end-of-stroke-switch-normally-closed.html

I noticed the left leaf switch is not opening when flipper is engaged. Could it be broken and why the coil is getting hot?
I put an arrow to highlight the leaf switch.

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This is the EOS switch and its contacts are welded together and not opening, that is why I said it needs to be replaced. The part I linked to is the correct part to be replaced. If you cradle the ball and the EOS switch stays close like this you will melt the coil very quickly.

Quick update.

I received the replacement leaf switch yesterday, but when trying to install it, either the part the screws into broke, or fell and couldn't not find it. So I used a portion of a plastic comb. Laugh all you want, it works!

The final project is to replace the failed LCD displays. The bottom (3rd and 4th) player LCD's are dead, and I found a rebuild kit. I'm just going to have to make an evening of it soldering about 1000 contacts.

It's great to have it working again. Appreciate all your help!

This is the part you lost.

https://www.pinballlife.com/tinnerman-nut-for-switch-stacks.html

I've been working away on a pretty rough HS that I got. Repairs and painting to head box, I went with the white W which I saw elsewhere on Pinside.

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I waxed the playfield and cleaned the glass on mine last night in preparation for Thanksgiving.

Hello group - question. Can someone shoot me a pic of the underside of the pf for the GI braid running under the area between the left orbit freeway insert and the stand ups?

Specifically, I can’t tell if this GI loop at the top should be connected or not? I’ve soldered it together but I don’t think it’s supposed to be. I’ve circled the string I’ve soldered together. Just need to know if that’s right. Thanks!

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They are connected on my machine:

GI loop behind targets

I tried to get the wires out of the way best I can; sorry it's still not completely clear, but I think you can see the important parts.

There are 5 lamps on this loop. Wires come in on the top left lamp, one leg on each leg of the lamp, with the top leg connected to the lamp to the right, as well as looping down along the left to the other three lamps. Bottom leg loops past the lamp to the right and then down along the right to the other three lamps.

A High Speed Thanksgiving at my house today.

Pete - thank you very much!

Williams High Speed Pinball - High Score Music and Initials Pinball

Cleared my high scores out on Thanksgiving and got the top place yesterday. Always fun hearing the music and knocker.

Hello! My High Speed is missing it’s music — I’m not sure it has the right MPU in it, and I’m not sure, even after research, whether music is on the MPU or the aux sound board. I’ve reseated cables. Game is 100% besides this issue. Any ideas where to start? I could reseat chips if I could ID which contained music.

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I'm pretty sure the background music comes from the sound board above the cpu.

Added two small LED strips (warm tone) to my game today. One in the ball drain and one under the overpass. Made a big difference.

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Looks great! I need to do that light strip mod!

I used the Comet LED strips. For high speed I would recommend either "Warm White" if you have mostly incandescent or or "Sunlight" if you have a few LEDS in to match the color of the rest of the lights. I used the 4" lengths for these spots.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/lighting-strips

Just finished painting the cabinet on my restoration of high speed using pinball pimp stencils. As always, great product and great results. Would have been Waaay easier to just slap a decal on this. But again, happy with my results. The yellow is actually Isuzu gold so has metal flake in it.

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Can anyone confirm this or point my to a ROM?

Bumping above query once more, thanks! Music is not discussed in pinwiki or anywhere I can find!

The background sound board is the top left as mentioned. U4 is the sound ROM chip, and should have a sticker on the top of it. Once in a while my background sound goes out, I remove one of J1, 2, or 3 and re seat, music comes back. I'm due for a connector replacement.
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Thank you! Giving it and a chip reseat a shot. Didn’t realize all sound was on one chip, that makes the issue a bit more confusing.

It’s alive!!!!! After 30 years with the batteries installed in a tractor trailer with mice and snakes, it’s alive!!!!!!! Thanks mainly to pinball pimp stencils, dumbass pinball boards and other pinside member with their cool add-ons like clear ramps and decals. All I need to do now is replace the beacon motor. It works, but seems to be missing teeth or something. Spin up perfectly, then next time, could hear the gears grinding with no beacon movement.

All in all, fun game and glad it did not end up in the landfill!

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