If you buy a cube 12 volt relay and connect it in parallel with the beacon relay in the back box with these Y connectors on the #85 and #86 terminals and a pair of jumper wires. Connect relay terminal #85 to terminal #85, connect relay terminal #86 to terminal #86.

Then get your positive 12 volts from the power supply connector 3J6 pin 3, connect this to terminal #30 on the new relay. Then connect #87 terminal of the new relay to the positive of your leds. Get the negative 12 volts from the same connector 3J6 pin 15, run this down to your leds negative.

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No, the beacon motor and lamp run off 24 volts. Beacon lamp 1683 is rated for 28v.

I didn't see GRUMPY previous post before this but I like this option.

ill give this a try later today and let you know how it goes. thanks

worked out mint, police lights on the car come on with the beacon now. pretty awesome add on. thanks again

ill post some pictures once i get it all back together

Playball!!

Very nice. Such a fun game. Always fun getting the hideout jackpot and having the machine freak out with lights, sounds, and music.

Grumpy,

Thanks again man! I replaced all the fuses in the game at the beginning. Checked voltage out of power supply and had ~28 volts. Checked voltage at the fuse and again ~28 volts checked the other end of the fuse and 2.3 volts! What the .....? pulled fuse out and it measured several meg ohms! Brand new but acting like a big resistor. New fuse and now 28 volts on both sides of fuse but now no power on coils. Checked 3P3 and decided just to replace it with trifurcon pins in new connector. Success! Thanks again I really appreciate the help. Moral of the story, just because it's a new fuse doesn't mean it's good.

Playball!!

Manual mistake on Page 47. Change R10 from 3.3 ohm to 3.3M ohm.

Page 49 not 47

Manual mistake on Page 49. Change R10 from 3.3 ohm to 3.3M ohm.

Couple pictures of the crown victoria cop car I added to my High Speed. The headlights and tail lights are on with the GI and the police lights come on with the beacon. I also added a Lamborghini on the shooter lane

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I just got a High Speed project - it's rough, has actually been dropped off a truck - ouch.

Anyway I noticed on the cab side art the trademark "TM" lettering under the D in Speed is a tiny little sticker on both sides. It's about an inch by a half inch and was clearly put on after cab painting. Was this normal?

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Yes, I’ve got them on my cabinet too. It’s probably an afterthought by Williams attorneys. In the US the TM is a designation that the owner is trying to protect the name High Speed as a trademark before there is a formal registration on file. Once the registration is approved you can use the circled R.

Just the wrong page ref.
pg. 49 bkgnd snd board.
Thanks barakandl for pointing out that resistor mislabel.

New background sound board available.

https://nvram.weebly.com/wms-c-11030-bg-sound.html

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Whoops, thanks. The font choice on the page numbers hard to read, seven looked like a nine. I should have known 3.3 OHM was not right... same circuit on a bunch of WMS sound boards. It is wrong in the Grand Lizard book too.

This is normal on many Williams games from that era. There should also be (R) stickers on the sides of the backbox.

Anyone with a High Speed CPR playfield they don’t plan on using and want to part with? Let me know if there’s any out there, thanks!

[email protected]

Picked up a fairly nice High Speed tonight. Excited to get it sorted and looking good.

Out of curiosity has anyone ever powder coated the legs and side rails in black?

Need a new motor but don't wish to pay $80? look no further. $24

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNOI8G

1) Take unit apart and throw out dome.

2) Take factory unit apart and throw out everything but the steel base plate and wiring.

3) Trim plastic base of Amazon lamp till it fits hole in cab, attach to original HS steel base plate.

4) Transfer old bulb to new assembly.

5) Install in cabinet.

6) Take an old bridge rectifier and install between cab wiring and lamp. This will change the 24VAC to DC voltage so the new DC motor will work.

Enjoy!
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I powder coated my legs and coin door. If I had to do it again I would have powder coated the side rails and lock down bar as well.

Pics?

My High Speed was missing the beacon when I bought it. Did the same thing to mine about 7 years ago....still working perfectly!

My first HS had something similar but they installed an external power supply to run it, bypassed the fuse and relay. being new to pinball I didn't know it was a hack. This is a good idea the way you are running it but I wouldn't throw away any parts. Someone can always use them.

Saved the parts and put in a bag that goes with the machine if I sell it. I'm going to loan to a friend for a few months for his help on a "warehouse run" but feel it would not have legs here. It is a fun game but I'm limited on space so really have to pick and choose now.

20221008_104637 (resized).jpgWell I got my game home last Thursday. I pulled all of the stainless and had it powder coated black. I think it looks a lot better and updates the game 20 years in appearance to look it's place along side the newer models.

I spent roughly 10 hours with acrylic paint and tiny brushes touching up both the playfield and cabinet. It's definitely not perfect but much better and in the low light setting of the arcade it looks beautiful.

I'll need to replace my alphanumeric displays as they aren't showing letters properly. Was looking into X- Pon, is there other options?

I've attached a few before and afters.

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Nice work. The display issues could also be coming from the CPU or flaky ribbon cables. What is the symptom of the displays?

Speeder 1 and 2 positions have partial woring numeric and alpa displays so hard to read your score or words. Speeder 3 is perfect and 4 doesn't light at all. The adhesive has let go on most so they are taped in position so you can remove and replace the translight.

A couple friends have been coming over to watch Rings Of Power at my house with me and afterwards we always hit the pinball machines. Have to say we all really enjoy the High Speed game and I'm guessing we played close to 100 games tonight. It holds it own for fun value with the new ones and is in fact one friends favorite of the three. Really happy with the game.

I scored this Pinscore display as a backup on my local Craigslist a few years back. Not sure if they are still available.

High Speed is a great pin from the '80's, nice job cleaning her up!!

PS : HS.pdf

Nice work on those updates! Keep these classics looking clean.

So I picked up a new pin this weekend and I think HS got a bit jealous... Mid game last night the left flipper died out, and I can see some small sparks coming from the flipper button when pressed. Any advice on what to check first?

EDIT: Ok, it was the damn pin in the link assembly that keeps falling out. Guess it's time for a rebuild... The sparks did concern me though, should I be filing the contacts on the button switch?

The cab switch should have a large 500v .1mfd capacitor. Is it present. Also make sure the eos is gapped 3/32 when bat it fully up.

Does anyone have a suggestion for how I can make the game quieter? I have the small volume knob turned all the way down but for home use it's still a little loud. I believe that the volume is a potentiometer but I don't know what the specs are nor do I know what I would need to replace it with. Anyone here know?

I just fixed that same problem with my High Speed - I couldn't get the game to get quiet enough.

In my case, my volume pot wouldn't get down to 0 ohm and therefore game could not be silenced. Grounding my center black wire as a test would mute the sound however. So I replaced the pot with one from pinball life (5014-12363-00) and it works great. I can now mute with the new pot.

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https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=5014-12363-00

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Exactly what I needed. Thank you much!

Hello,

Does anyone have bell post they can spare for my lane guide? I have one that is rusted out but rest of the part is good.

Thanks,
John

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I'm looking for the 55mph Speed Limit plastic and a few others as well, if you have any extras.

Hello all, is there supposed to be a ball save during the first 15 or 20 seconds of game play? Every other game I've played has this but my High Speed doesn't or at least isn't turned on. It would be a nice thing to have for novice players like myself.

Thanks!

No, there's not. Not a timer-based one anyway. That didn't show up until early 90's. But long before that, it was pretty common for a machine to serve up the same ball if you drained without scoring a single point. High Speed works like that.

You can do other things to make the game more generous for novices, like change it to a 5-ball game, or lower the score for replay (while also setting the replay to give you an extra ball instead).

Of course, my favorite thing to do novice-wise is just play four games at once. Usually at least one of them will go reasonably well.

No, it does not. System 11's are kind of brutal like that. LOL

Chris

If you do not hit any points awarding switches and drain, it will serve up another ball.

I have the same question the above post was answering, except that the question and answer both seem inapplicable to my machine.

All of the discussion seems to involve removable coil stops with metal studs, but my machine is completely different. It has a coil stop bracket that is integral to the whole flipper bracket, and which has a rubber plug as the coil stop. Please see photo:

High Speed flipper coil stop

I have been unsuccessful finding a replacement for this part anywhere.

I bought my machine about 25 years ago. It had been routed prior to my purchase, and it shows wear from that (it's lived a quiet, if sometimes neglected life since then). I'm wondering if it's possible that someone replaced the whole flipper mechanism with a non-OEM style part before I got the machine. That could explain why the only discussion I see here about coil stops on High Speed seem to involve a part of a completely different design.

Either way, can anyone tell me where I might find the rubber piece that I need? I guess whether it's original or not, replacing the whole coil assembly would be an alternative fix, but the flippers actually work great at the moment, so that seems very much like that would be overkill.

The flipper mechanism in your pic is original to your game. The rubber plug you refer to is not the coil stop. The coil stop is on the other end of the flipper bracket. It unbolts by removing the 2 allen head screws. The rubber part you are looking to replace is available, link below.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-rubber-bumper-pluggrommet.html

I had a good competitive game with my 25 year old son last night on High Speed. Fun machine. I think we both were in the 4.5 to 5 million for points and both got the Hide Out Jackpot during the game. Lots of fun. Never gets old. The light show, audio, and playfield geometry is all so well done.

lol...I'm such an idiot. In hindsight, I'm not even sure how I managed to get that backwards.

Thanks for setting me straight!