Thanks Grumpy.
I have 26.4 volts DC and 57.8 volts AC.

You need a new bridge rectifier.

https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=KBPC3504

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/KBPC3504-L

Thank you Grumpy! I’ll report back how it goes.

If your game doesn't have fuses on the bridges yet, now is a good time to add them.

pasted_image (resized).png

GRUMPY are you talking about

In inspecting the power supply, I found one wire that was sheared almost through. Resoldered that wire and so far no more lockups. The laser kick coil is still firing a bit erratically though. I have new rubbers and plastics on order, so when I start going through those I’ll be checking that switch and coil voltage.

Promised before pics over the weekend.. well, it’s Monday night, but y’know.
Cabinet is on the struggle bus, there’s some playfield wear (do the light plastics usually pop up through the playfield? Cause these actually affect ball movement….) and the rubbers are all dry-rotted. Here’s a few shots of the current condition.

057CAEC2-D702-4C44-ADCE-C0E036DCBAB7 (resized).jpeg

66A20808-0793-41A3-913B-67BE72BEEA6E (resized).jpeg

E962D265-3848-44D0-83EC-F00A488C3E7D (resized).jpeg

FCCF16D4-2C44-45ED-9952-599A8D68CD88 (resized).jpeg

Nice find!

Clean the switch contacts by pulling a new crisp 100 dollars bill thru the contacts while closed. Then check the switch adjustment with a ball on the wire form.

Search for information on "leveling inserts". There are a few threads on that. Happens sometimes on older games.

I have 100% operating coils now. It turned out to be a combination of 5 shorted 2N4401 transistors and bad U18 and 19. I swapped U20 as well so I have all new 7408's for the 16 coils. I didn't have to change any TIP102's. I'm not sure if the shorted 2N4401's took out the 7408's or vice versa? But I'm glad I didn't have to pull U28 or any 6821's.

1J1, 2 and 3 header pins looked rough and bent so I replaced those while I had the board on the bench. I got a lot practice soldering and de-soldering on this one.

If anyone is interested I have a CPR High Speed (screened) Playfield and plastic set I am not going to need. The playfield was professional wet sanded, blocked and cleared. Plastic set is new CPR in the bag. Playfield does have minor ghosting on 2x, 5x and bonus hold insert. $1200 plus shipping.

16278E5A-5AA5-4839-8B1A-94F0DC30C4DC (resized).jpeg

3483ACF2-7A35-4462-B5E4-AB01FEF404F4 (resized).jpeg

4FBE74E8-5CC0-41C0-9ADD-52189123219F (resized).jpeg

7160FECE-1B92-44E4-B64D-36588106E360 (resized).jpeg

AF414526-ED0D-4407-B18C-9EF2F5D5F706 (resized).jpeg

F9C42FD4-E294-4AFC-904A-F3E8746DB0F3 (resized).jpeg

Did this, and the switch registers 100 out of 100 times in switch test. During gameplay, however, the coil is still firing multiple times occasionally: It fires early the first time, essentially just stopping the ball. Then it fires quickly a second time, which bounces the ball a couple inches, then on the third fire it actually kicks the ball back into play. The sound is like "pop pop... fire." But out of about 12 games today, it's only happened twice. It fires perfectly every other time.

Hi i just picked up a high speed. It has some different stuff going on. There are switch slots cut out of the playfield under the ramp but no switches. The playfield under neath is bare wood. All the relays look hand wired in and are not the factory ones. There is some different wiring in the head as well. I know its not a new playfield because it is blown out. Has anyone seen something like this?

When i open the coin door I noticed that nothing happens with it even though there is a switch. Is it supposed to do something when you open the coin door or is that switch there for no reason which doesn’t make any sense.

The white coin door switch allows you to make changes to the game settings and store them in the ram.

We need pics first.

It maybe time for a new relay. Usually there is a automotive style 12 volt black cube relay under the play field to activate the coil. There is @ 70 volts going thru the contacts of this 12 volt rated relay.

Just went around the corner to an auto parts store and got the exact same relay and installed it. Still having the same symptoms; here’s a video of what it’s doing.

https://vimeo.com/704191885

So, what's the problem?

Your switch is closing a tad bit early. If you open the gap on the switch contacts by a 1/16 of an inch, it will delay the coil just a bit. Try for having the ball in the center of the switch wire form before the coil fires. Right now the coil is firing after @ a 1/4 inch of switch wire form instead of 1/2 inch.

I installed a new bridge rectifier and still have 26.4 volts DC and 57.8 volts AC measured on the bridge rectifier lugs.

Well crap, your C-5 cap on the power supply board must be completely shot.

Thanks! I’ll take a look at that this week.

Grumpy,

I tried to get a voltage on the C5 capacitor with the game running and I got no voltage measured. Not sure if I did something wrong.

Also, I happen to have a 150 uf, 100 v capacitor. Is this possible to use, or will it fry something? I can order a matching replacement, but figured I would check to see if this would even work.

63790F59-A6A9-42D1-A12F-4B2DCBB1A9D1 (resized).jpeg

A230A636-7281-473A-BABB-7250A85AE46E (resized).jpeg

Yes that will work just fine. When you remove the original cap from the board you will see another hole in the board underneath the cap to use a radial cap instead of the axial cap. All you need to do is remove the solder from this hole to use it and then fill in the other hole you are not using.

Excellent! Thanks Grumpy! I'll attempt that today and report back. I had the board out last night and also re-flowed some cracked cold solder joints on some of the header pins.

Nice find!

Installed the new capacitor. Slingshots read 28.2 volts. Flippers read 67 volts.

Did the A/C drop down? 57.8 volts A/C is crazy high.

I'm at a show and I can't remember if hs has the nipple on the back side of the score displays nor if I can use the nipple version. An somebody help me out with pic of the numerical display back side please?

Hi Folks, I hope you can help us, our machine won't recognize the kickback (and the light stays on), the targets that light the kickback, recognizing a ball going up the ramp and not recognizing when a ball goes through the freeway spinners.

thank you for your help
Lance

I’ve read about half this thread and am struggling with something. What’s the proper operation of the diverters on the ramp? I get about 2 times into the right hideout and 2 times all the way through (back onto the playfield) out of every 5. I rarely get diverted into the left hideout maybe once out of every 5 or 8 times up the ramp. It does happen occasionally so I think the switch is working, but maybe not often enough. When should it be going to the left hideout (first switch on the ramp)?

Mine do not have the nipple. Not sure if there’s enough room for one either. See photos. Hope that helps.

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

I'm not sure. haha. How and where should I measure it?

Same spot, just change meter to A/C instead of DC.

The display you have has a hole in the board for a display with a nipple, and yes they will fit with those spacers. Some boards do not have a hole in them for the nipple, but you can drill one as long as you don't hit a trace.

Kicker voltage is 28 volts DC and 60 volts AC just now. Black probe on the ground braid, red probe on the kicker solenoid coil tabs.

Looks like you're at the show. What game is that and where is your spot? I'm at spits 97 and 104.

The photos were taken in my basement, but I'll be at the show again today (was there yesterday too). I'll try find spots 97 and 104 to stop by!

Chris

My black plastic traffic light is a mess and I'd like to replace it with something more similar to the upright yellow ones pictured on the playfield; must come with lamp bases/wiring and plug into the same connector. Suggestions?

Contact RobF here on Pinside for his plug and play new style stop light.

IMG_1594 (resized).JPG

IMG_1603 (resized).JPG

I like the looks of that! What kind of bulbs does it take, it doesn't look large enough to fit three 44's or 555's in there.

No bulbs...has LED's

Comes with mounting screw to attach to post.

^^^ THIS.

I replaced my busted ass black light with this and it's awesome. Great quality, super simple install.

traffic light (resized).jpg

I'm looking for this one particular plastic under the ramp in the upper left if anyone has one (see pics). Can't find it online ala carte and it's my only busted plastic left to replace. Please message me if you have one you're willing to part with. Doesn't need to be perfect.

large (resized).jpg

mid1 (resized).jpg

plastics (resized).jpg

So like many on this Forum - I am a HUGE Grumpy fan…. But I have to ask…Why do you need to use a new crisp $100 bill to clean the switch instead of a new crisp $5 or $10 or $20?

I can't remember having a brand new 5, 10 or 20 dollar bill in so long I forgot what they look like, but if you got one then by all means use it.

After some adjusting of the switch I seem to be getting into the left hideout more often. But how do I adjust the strength of the upkicker? It is firing out of there so fast that I miss it most times. If I hold the left flipper, the ball slams into it, jumps the flipper and drains.

There is no adjustment that I know of. Perhaps the wrong coil was installed? You can adjust the exit angle of the ball rail by loosening the upper lock nut at the sling shot plastic and move it left or right.

Honestly its a good thing it’s kicking out that quick, I wouldn’t change that but you can adjust it a little bit using the bolts by the right and left slingshots.

You can raise the flipper bat higher off of the playfield a bit, it may keep it from hopping over the top.