Finally picked one up!

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I have gone through all of the switches multiple times. It only happens once there are balls in the hide outs and the third ball hits the gate and starts going down the ramp to the hide out. i have tried to recreate it in test mode with balls in the hide outs but no reset only in game play. No additional switches come on when testing the switches. At it again maybe i missed something. Spending the day going through the whole play field slowly....

If you look at the switch matrix you will see that the hide out switches are in the same row and column as the 2 tilt switches #7 and #41. When you have both hide out switches closed with balls and third ball hits the left ramp switch you are activating one of the tilt switches. First you need to ensure that all of these switches are wired correctly and the diode is installed correctly and that the diode is not shorted out. If all this is fine then you need to replace SRC 6 resistor pack on the cpu board.

Funny how it all makes sense when you explain the matrix like this. Software functioning as expected.

I need some help with a HS CPU. This is a board I bought years ago, no corrosion, supposedly 100% working. Stored in anti-static bag under steady climate control. Recently when trying the board, it locked a jet bumper and a sling shot. Both special solenoids. So I replaced the associated driver and pre-driver transistors and also U 45 and 50. Tried it again and the knocker coil locked on. Back on the bench. The transistors seemed good when tested with meter. I noticed U17 had been socketed and replaced. This 7408 is associated with the knocker so I replaced. No locked knocker now.

So now I can run self test and see where I'm at. In coils test, 9 coils are not firing, The came is 100% with the CPU so I know it's not a connector or power issue. The following coils are not firing:

1. Outhole Q33 U20- sn7408 Quad 2 input AND gate
2. Flasher #1 Q17 U18
3. Flasher #2 Q31 U19
4. Flasher #3 Q23 U19
5. Flasher #4 Q8 U18
6. GI Flasher relay Q16 U18
7. Left hideout Q30 U19
8. Right hideout Q22 U19
9. Backbox insert flasher Q9 U18

Yes the board has been sitting for at least 8 years but I find it hard to believe that 9 transistor went bad or that U18,19 and 20 have also gone bad unless something weird has caused this or is there something further up the chain that could have gone bad? If it is a PIA, then which one?

Typo, the game is 100% with the original CPU installed.

Most likely U-28 is bad, but it can also be the PIAs that feed U-28.

Can I test U28 with a logic probe while it's in the game? If so, how. I also have the Leon's test rom but still have to learn how to use it. Not sure if it even goes that far into troubleshooting. I'm having a hard time following the cpu schematic, either it's that vague or I just don't know enough yet. I'm learning little by little on board work. So the PIA's are U38 and/or U54 if the U28 is good?

Yes those are the correct PIAs. Each PIA sends 8 signals to U-28 to activate 8 controlled solenoids. Since you have 9 solenoids not working, I would think it is more likely that U-28 is bad instead of both PIAs being bad. But it could also be a combination of 2 or more bad parts causing this. Best thing is to test it with a logic probe in the game so you can use the door switches and displays to make things easier.

I don't any schematics in front my right now, but if you lock it in solenoid test for the non working solenoid and probe the D0-D7 outputs of both PIAs until you find the correct output. Then test ouputs of U-28. Then test the inputs/outs of the correct AND gates (U-18,U-19 and U-20). Something will turn up. It could be a bad pull-up buss resistor network gone bad too. Give it a try and let me know what you come up with.

Will do and thanks for advice and instructions. Back to work Monday so it will be a bit until I can get back to it.

Does anyone have custom apron cards I can print?

http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/card/card.htm

I would present the information in a different manner. Sort the solenoids by group. The solenoid table at the beginning of the manual shows you what solenoid is number what. The solenoid drives are broadly grouped as 1-8, 9-16 and 17-22. The ICs responsible for driving the solenoids are different based on the grouping.

• Outhole = solenoid #1 (0=0y000)
• Flasher 2 = solenoid #5 (4=0y100)
• Flasher 3 = solenoid #6 (5=0y101)
• Left hideout = solenoid #7 (6=0y110)
• Right hideout = solenoid #8 (7=0y111)
• Flasher 1 = solenoid #9 (8=0y000)
• Insert board flashers = solenoid #10 (9=0y001)
• GI Relay = solenoid #11 (10=0y010)
• Flasher 4 = solenoid #12 (11=0y011)

Software control:

• Solenoids 1-8 are driven by U28 (74LS374) that is directly addressed by the software at $2200.
• Solenoids 9-16 are driven by U10 (PIA) that is addressed at $2100.

All those signals go through any of U17/U18/U19/U20 (7408) - i.e. ANDed with the ~BLANKING signal.

There's no logical pattern to your failure. The bit patterns of the solenoid numbers don't have anything obvious in common (that I can see). Based on this it is likely that you are dealing with multiple failures. Work on the failures by groups - i.e. solenoids 1-8 and 9-16. You can break those down further into solenoids 1-4, 5-8, 9-12 and 13-16 for IC grouping purposes.

Ok, thanks for making this a little more clear for me. I ran the test one more time to make sure I didn't miss anything. It turns out that solenoid #12 is actually locked on. Also solenoid 6 is working. This leaves 1,5,7,8,9,10 and 11 out and #12 locked on. I double checked the connectors and all look ok.

Hello i just picked up a high speed and I’m having issues with the flashers. I’m having issues with all of them except for the ones with the red caps over them. Do you know what could be causing this issue? P.s. they are not leds they are incamdescents.

High Speed runs all the flashers in pairs. So if one in the pair dies, the other is out too. It is a bit surprising that the two sets of four under the playfield are all out though, they are in 4 pairs.

During disassembly for hardtop, I lost the curved ball guide that goes just below the saucer in the picture. Does anyone have a part number, or at least know what size wire I need to make a new one? My calipers are at the shop and I want to place an order.
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Probably. 093. (3/32)

I need to get some piano wire too. I'm missing one of those wire ball guides like the one in the bottom right of RandyW's photo. Hopefully, the local hardware store will have some that I can pick up this weekend.

I was able to fix them, i want to install led flashers but I heard that you have to do something to have them work properly. What do i do?

I have some if you need it. Doubt you find it retail. I have .093 stainless welding wire and a wire bending tool.

Plenty of threads describe how to do this. I found this one useful;
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/removing-warming-resistors

Hi guys!

I'm working on a high speed and recently had to take the backbox off and reattach it when i put it back together i also put a new main board in it, I took plenty of pictures to assist with the reassembly but my phone got stolen before i had a chance to reassemble it and now i have something im not sure about because there is a group of 3 wires the previous owner attached female pins to instead of attaching a new adapter to the existing wires so here is my questions: On the bakground sound board in the top left what should be plugged into "J1 ands J2" and what do they attach to? And my other bit of confusion is on the main board what should be plugged into "1j13" and where do those wires go? Also just to double check "1j15 is speakers 1j16 is volume control?"

I believe 1j13 should be black wires coming from the power board. If thats correct then what plugs into j1 and j2 in the bg sound board? Like i said previous owner left a bundle of 3 wires unlabled in there and i lost my own pics. Thanks to anyone who can help me out real quick!

OK,
11J1 on Background card connects to 1J16 on CPU board
11J2 on Background card goes to Volume rheostat in the cabinet on the tilt board.

1J13 are Black "Solenoid Ground" wires for Flipper Supply and connect to 15J2 and loop to 3J4 Pins 1-4 on the Main Power supply board

1J15 connects directly to your speakers

1J16 Connects to Background Sound Board 11J1 *See first line above*

Hope this helps

Here is a pic
IMG_6924 (resized).jpg

Well I joined the club today. This is the first pin I’ve bought, after having “inherited” Cue Ball Wizard as a hand me down from my dad. HS is in good shape overall, maybe a 6 of 10 on the cabinet and a 7 on the play field. Beacon and displays work too. There are some plastics to replace and ugly GI but those are easy fixes.

The major issue I have is no response from the kickback. This game is TOUGH without the kickback!

Edit: Audit shows the kickback has registered 16 times since I reset today. I’m guessing maybe the solenoid relay?

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Nice pickup. HS was my first purchase as well, after inheriting my Dad's Haunted House.

In the settings you can adjust weather the kickback is always on, vs the factory setting (qualified by target hits). If you haven't already, download the manual... it will help.

Have Fun!

There is a relay under the PF for the kickback. It is controlled by Q7 on the CPU. I would also check continuity from the coil, brown/blue wire to the 1J12 pin 7.

As soon as I pulled a bit of wire guide from a future wall hanging playfield I found my missing ball guide

It's nice when you find a part that you thought was gone forever!

Well I'm getting some way off measurements from SR4,5,6 and 7. 5 and 7 are 2.7K and I'm getting readings as low as 580 ohms, in fact SR7 only has 2 pins that are near spec. With SR 4 and 6 which is a 560 ohm, I'm getting readings as low as 56 ohm and over 600. My question is, are these low resistance findings taking out U17 thru 20 and possibly U28 or overheating the transistors. Why are the SR's failing, shorted transistors or just breaking down from age and/or heat?

I'm trying to get all the parts together before I figure out what's wring. GPE is out of the 10 pin 560 ohm.

When things are 100% on the board I read 561 ohms for SR4/6, and 1950 ohms for SR5/7. With many componets connected to each other they can affect the readings sometimes. To biggest problem is to know which componet is bad before you remove it. Resistor packs like these don't go bad too often. Some people will cut a lead on the And gate to see if the reading gets better or not. Then they resolder the cut lead if it wasn't that part. I usually just replace them any way. YMMV.

Well, I didn’t do anything except trace that wire and jiggle the board connections. But I have a kickback and a fully working HS!

Yeah I was wondering if it was a good idea to test the bus resistors while still in the board. I'm going to see if the low resistance readings coincide with the coils that are not working. I just spent a good hour and a half placing a GPE order so it's getting late for me.

I’m having issues with my shooter rod assembly, it keeps sliding down somehow even though i have it tight. Is there supposed to be some kind of grip or something to grip to the cabinet?

Hey everyone! I just bought HS a couple days ago, so I’m excited to join the club. This one is pretty rough. Paint is worn almost completely off of the right side of the cabinet, and probably a 4/10 on the left side. A lot of cracked plastics, of course the obligatory 15 or so bulbs burnt out, and a cracked main ramp. I’ve already ordered $600 worth of stuff to get it pretty, but more importantly I have a couple questions on electronic issues.
The machine checks every box in switch test/coil test, and plays fairly normally… for a time. Two major issues have appeared on the several games I’ve put in, however.

The laser kick coil fires perfectly about 50% of the time. Sometimes it fires three times, with the third being the one that actually kicks the ball out. Sometimes it fires very softly, only gets the ball halfway up the playfield. Sometimes it tries to fire a couple times, sluggishly, and then gives up and drains the ball.

The second, and more worrisome, is the machine is locking up during gameplay, perhaps 10% of the time. If it locks up during a sound being played, the sound is drawn out until it slows to 0hz. Once, it was in the middle of ball 2 and just randomly went straight into attract mode.
When it locks up, the top display shows nothing and all switches and coils cease operation. It can be immediately rebooted and will go back to normal play, but has no memory of credits that may have been there. (This is a location machine so not free play)

I’m excited to get this machine restored to its former glory; I’ll post “before” pics this weekend! Would love any insight into the above issues; I’ve read about 1/3 of this total thread so far and haven’t seen them crop up yet. Cheers y’all.

Most likely you need the power supply rebuilt. 5 volt power drops below 4.86 volts and game resets or locks up.

Start with fixing the power supply and this issue may fix itself.

My sling shots are weak. I think the main reason is that there is slop in the plunger links. What is the correct part replacement for these?
Is this what I need?

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-plunger-and-link-old-style.html

No that's the flipper plunger. A-5103 is the sling. Worn plunger usually doesn't male slings weak. Slings are controlled by the special solenoids. See if th3 coils are swollen. The plunger should move freely and the sleeve should pull out by hand. Check voltage at coils. Should be around 50.

Thanks. I checked both slingshot coils and the lugs measure 27 volts.

Would you be able to change the background sound on one of these?

Check the pop bumper coils voltage, see if its the same as the slings.

Thanks for helping Grumpy. The pop bumpers and slingshots all read 26.8 volts.

These do sound a bit low. Is your house voltage low also?

Not that I’m aware of. How do I check that?

Set your DMM to A/C volts. Carefully insert each test lead into the wall outlet. You should get a reading @ 114-120 volts A/C.

I measured 120.6 volts at the outlet High Speed is plugged into.

I would like to change the background music to this.

How would I do that?

Plenty of A/C voltage at your home. I think the bridge rectifier for the coil power is going bad. You can put your test leads on the orange and black leads. Take a DC and a A/C reading.

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You would have to re-write the 1986 software program code that's burned into the ROM chips.
I don't think there is any utility similar to Pinbrowser for Williams games.