The board and batteries don’t have any corrosion. Batteries are also new as of a couple of months ago. The top right screen comes and goes on some of those letters.
(Topic ID: 69131)
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Carneys Point Township, NJ
Quoted from STLOkie:The board and batteries don’t have any corrosion. Batteries are also new as of a couple of months ago. The top right screen comes and goes on some of those letters.
Perhaps cold solder joint on header pins either on display or driver board or the cpu. How do the network resistors look? Any look toasty?
Hamilton, ON
I'm just about done my High Speed project (17mo later)
If someone has a couple pics of how the diverter assembly attaches with the rubber rings that would be helpful. Indont remember having to take the diverter mech apart to feed it up the back but it's the only obvious method I'm seeing at a glance
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:I'm just about done my High Speed project (17mo later)
If someone has a couple pics of how the diverter assembly attaches with the rubber rings that would be helpful. Indont remember having to take the diverter mech apart to feed it up the back but it's the only obvious method I'm seeing at a glance
NM. Found one. It's goes behind the entire mech 
Screenshot_20211118-184932_Chrome (resized).jpgQuoted from KnockerPTSD:Anybody know what this hook up is for? I can see where it would be needed?
[quoted image]
That is the plug for your ramp switches. The wires should come through slot in the playfield you can see next to the backboard.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:That is the plug for your ramp switches. The wires should come through slot in the playfield you can see next to the backboard.
I always assumed my machine was assembled incorrectly. So I swapped the connector housings around so the smaller one is on the ramp side. I don't have to take the back board off.
I figured that one out. Mostly together now. Anyone know where this piece of wireform goes? It's from around the ramp but idk where exactly.
Basically just the tamp to work on now.
Already fired it up and did a switch test. A few tweaks but all good.
20211118_211734 (resized).jpg20211118_211932 (resized).jpgQuoted from BJM-Maxx:I always assumed my machine was assembled incorrectly. So I swapped the connector housings around so the smaller one is on the ramp side. I don't have to take the back board off.
I thought of that as well but if someone had to change the diverter they would be like what the???
Im missing a few screws after 17mo of moving my project around. What kind of screws are used in the two ramp brackets that screw into the diverter plate? Anything g else I'm.missing can be substituted for something similar but those two are threaded holes that I DO NOT want to f up
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:I figured that one out. Mostly together now. Anyone know where this piece of wireform goes? It's from around the ramp but idk where exactly.
Basically just the tamp to work on now.
Already fired it up and did a switch test. A few tweaks but all good.
[quoted image][quoted image]
The end that you're holding goes under the traffic light bracket and I think the other end should line up with a post stud.
Quoted from Lovef2k:I thought of that as well but if someone had to change the diverter they would be like what the???
Change the ramp assy I should say.
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:I figured that one out. Mostly together now. Anyone know where this piece of wireform goes? It's from around the ramp but idk where exactly.
Basically just the tamp to work on now.
Already fired it up and did a switch test. A few tweaks but all good.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Ah, that guide wire stumps a lot. I answered this question earlier in the thread but it is easier for me to include the answer in this post. Here is a pic where it goes. It attaches to the ramp as well. I actually made a different guide wire that does not attach to the ramp since I have the ramp from @freeplay40. Here is the pic of the stock wire placing.
IMG_3882 (resized).JPGQuoted from Pin-Pilot:Ah, that guide wire stumps a lot. I answered this question earlier in the thread but it is easier for me to include the answer in this post. Here is a pic where it goes. It attaches to the ramp as well. I actually made a different guide wire that does not attach to the ramp since I have the ramp from Freeplay40. Here is the pic of the stock wire placing.
[quoted image]
I'm missing some screw so my ramp and corresponding frames are just sitting in there loose but it's obviously in the final stages now.
I also have the Freeplay40 ramp. Are you suggesting I leave the wire out?
20211118_220436 (resized).jpgQuoted from KnockerPTSD:I'm missing some screw so my ramp and corresponding frames are just sitting in there loose but it's obviously in the final stages now.
I also have the Freeplay40 ramp. Are you suggesting I leave the wire out?
[quoted image]
Looking good!
I made a different guide because I did not want it to attach it to the new ramp. You could probably get by without putting it in for home use. There is a chance a ball can hop under the ramp in the back.
I believe the screws you are referring to are the 2 machine screws just under the diverter arms. I believe they are just #6/32X1/4" (might be #8)
IMG_5421 (resized).PNGSafe assumption that the stock coin mechs only take quarters? Thinking about routing mine but I want those loonies (dollar coins)
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:Looking for tips on the diverter adjustments. It doesn't want to let me do full loops most times. The divertor arms end up in this half out position very often now.
[quoted image]
Chances are that would be fixed in the mechanism below the playfield. A dirty worn coil sleeve could do this. A broken return spring could also do it. If they are good, remove the coil and actuate the arms by hand from where the coil pulls and see if it is smooth. I assume your arms have good clearance to the ramp openings?
Does anyone here know what switch 38 is? I don't have a manual but I'm getting a service warning on boot up. Thanks.
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:Does anyone here know what switch 38 is? I don't have a manual but I'm getting a service warning on boot up. Thanks.
I think it's my upper flipper possibly? It stays active occasionally until the flipper button is pressed again. I still have some tweaking to do
Hey all. I am working on a HS for a customer. They want the machine done with custom art and have provided artwork for the job. The issue I have is that the alignment for the playfield inserts and cut outs are slightly off on their artwork. Does anyone have an illustrator file that has the correct alignment for these holes so that I can align their artwork? Otherwise I have to measure and move each of the holes in the file that they provided. Assistance is hugely appreciated. DM if you have such a file for this machine.
Photo of what I am looking for is included.
549A777C-1586-42D0-AEBE-FEFBD0DE73AD (resized).jpeg
A5AF8DA6-6C5B-4D32-A607-AD26DC5C978E (resized).jpegAny thoughts on why I cannot get steeper than 5.5deg pitch on my HS would be appreciated!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/difficulty-setting-pitch-on-hs#post-6622491
What would be involved in changing my High Speed to accept loonies? (Cdn $1 coins)
Obviously new mechs. That part is easy but the coin slots on the door are only big enough to fit quarters. Would a whole new coin door also be necessary? I haven't taken apart the door on HS and it is different but I know for older Williams games you could replace the coin "flap" part.
Thanks. The game is going into a local brewery for the winter.
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:What would be involved in changing my High Speed to accept loonies? (Cdn $1 coins)
Obviously new mechs. That part is easy but the coin slots on the door are only big enough to fit quarters. Would a whole new coin door also be necessary? I haven't taken apart the door on HS and it is different but I know for older Williams games you could replace the coin "flap" part.
Thanks. The game is going into a local brewery for the winter.
I just did this to one of my coin slots on my High Speed. New coin mech snaps right in and then I took the outer slot off of the door and filed about 1mm from the top and bottom of the opening and repainted, then printed a loonie label and put it into the reject button. Works perfect
236430931_965749514269174_2659157982265159217_n (resized).jpg239856322_356254762622276_2057510271628798384_n (resized).jpgQuoted from KnockerPTSD:I think it's my upper flipper possibly? It stays active occasionally until the flipper button is pressed again. I still have some tweaking to do
Its the lane change switch for the right flipper, it is piggybacked on the EOS switch on the lower right flipper assembly. It is shown on page 35 of the manual, which you can download from the internet pinball database
@wis
Quoted from FantasticPinball:Hey all. I am working on a HS for a customer. They want the machine done with custom art and have provided artwork for the job. The issue I have is that the alignment for the playfield inserts and cut outs are slightly off on their artwork. Does anyone have an illustrator file that has the correct alignment for these holes so that I can align their artwork? Otherwise I have to measure and move each of the holes in the file that they provided. Assistance is hugely appreciated. DM if you have such a file for this machine.
Photo of what I am looking for is included.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
With such a high run game, PF were probably outsourced to diff places.....gonna be tough to find a match.
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:I ended up filing the opening and I'm ordering some new mechs. I don't have a printer anyway so I need to find the little coin reject insert for $1 and I need some apron cards before it heads out to its temporary home
[quoted image]
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:What would be involved in changing my High Speed to accept loonies? (Cdn $1 coins)
Obviously new mechs. That part is easy but the coin slots on the door are only big enough to fit quarters. Would a whole new coin door also be necessary? I haven't taken apart the door on HS and it is different but I know for older Williams games you could replace the coin "flap" part.
Thanks. The game is going into a local brewery for the winter.
What brewery?
1 week later
Quoted from Hangernade:This plastic was broken when I bought my machine. Found a replacement. Now it's broken too.
[quoted image]</blockThis plastic was broken when I bought my machine. Found a replacement. Now it's broken too.
[quoted image]
Also try putting on those clear plastic washers on that corner and use a plastic nut to hold them on. I just did that because of the same issue.
Picked this up the other day, needed some flipper work and it now plays great. Had to do a few small touch ups on the playfield and have a playfield protector on the way. I have set it to extra hard settings and about 6.8 pitch, finding it quite easy to getaway and hit the jackpot etc. Think I need to read up on the rules.
Love the old skool sound effects and prefer this to The Getaway which I have owned.
42A87872-7478-4CAA-82F0-14DD6561D53A (resized).jpegQuoted from jdzwir123:Thank you! I had a question about the radar lights. The previous owner had led lights in that spot. They are continually on. Could it be that they are not Flashers? Or is there some other place I should look?
Led flashers will stay on unless you remove the warming resistors from the circuit.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/removing-warming-resistors
I put LEDs in my machine but I purposely kept the original flasher bulbs because I didn't want to mess with that.
Quoted from jdzwir123:Thank you Bellagio for referencing that post.
I cut a leg off of everyone of them and now all the flashers are led and work like they were intended to. The light show is actually a lot better than I remember.
Did you do colored LED's in the back box? Really does wonders for the appearance of the Back glass. The LED flashers in the backglass are awesome
Quoted from jdzwir123:Thank you Bellagio for referencing that post.
I cut a leg off of everyone of them and now all the flashers are led and work like they were intended to. The light show is actually a lot better than I remember.
Glad to hear it! I also changed over to all led flashers. The light show during the pursuit is great
Quoted from RobF:Thought I would share a little mod that I made while restoring my topside. I wanted to update the standard black and off-white spacers used on the plastics. I came up with a tree trunk shape and printed them in green so they would blend in . It's subtle, but I am happy with how they turned out. [quoted image][quoted image]
I printed these with wood filament. I like it better than the green. I then experimented with a little sanding and wood staining. Here is one fresh off the printer next to stained version.
DSC08765 (resized).JPGPromoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
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