I've been chilling in the High Speed Club thread. Have provided ramps to all who showed initial interest and announced a "last call" for the time being while I help my son prepare for the NW Pinball Show the first week in June. I anticipate making more in June provided there is still interest. Details, photos,a short video and the history are contained in the High Speed Club thread, pages 9-16. New ramp eliminated the need for the ramp cover and is much quieter than the stock black ramp. Couple photos attached. Note relocation of stop light.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-club-dispatch-this-is-504-we-have-a-club-now-over/page/11

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Receiving requests for the price and added some photos as well as a link to a short video.

The basic ramp will have a flap installed and all holes drilled for mounting. The stop light holes will be handled on a case by case basis. Either you want them or not. Reason for this is should you decide to relocate like I did, then to be clean will not want those holes drilled.
All aspects of the ramp and even a video of it in action are included within the High Speed Club thread…basically pages 9-16.

Goal was to produce a clear ramp and eliminate the need for the ramp cover. Additional benefit discovered after produced is that the new clear ramp is much quieter.

Ramp $90
Shipping/handling $15

So if you just want the ramp and can do your own assembly, total cost at this time will be $105

Along the way I came up with some options if you are interested.

Option 1. Send me your mounting parts and I will assemble/rivet. Beyond the flap, there are 7 other rivets necessary to attach the hardware to the ramp. For testing, I had tried using screws but quickly found they interfered with ball travel. So unless you are going to grind down the screw heads, rivets should really be used. This option would require that you send me your mounting parts and then I will rivet and test fit in my game. This option will allow you to immediately install in your game when you get it back. Cost for riveting and assembly $20... Photo of necessary parts attached.

Option 2 On the inside uphill curve of the ramp is a ¾” by about 6” metal ball guide. If your game is like most this piece of metal is probably beat up. This piece is just a chromed one side piece of metal… not stainless. I also offer a thinner, stronger piece of polished spring steel to replace this. Cost for this piece is $5

So in summary:

Ramp, drilled and entrance flap installed $90
Shipping to you $15
Option 1. I rivet and assemble using your parts $20
Option 2. New ball guide metal $5

So far most orders have opted for everything, mostly due to the fact that few have a rivet press.
I can accept Paypal at [email protected]

http://www.youtube.com/embed/9A90VD52m8A?autoplay=1&rel=0

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I've of course been looking at only the clear ramp in mine and when I see the photos of the black ones, I'm really glad I did this. Others are working on additional mods like decals for the ramp as well as a police car, unit #504 of course, under the left side of the ramp. I relocated my stoplight and now thinking maybe I need a new design. Fun stuff.

At the moment I have three left. I will be making more after the NW Pinball show in Seattle the first week of June.

I lay awake at night and think of things like this. There are new programmable color changing LED's that my son is working with... I'll have to talk to him.

So at the moment I have 7 ramps to assemble once I receive the guy's parts in the mail and, I think, 2 ramps not spoken for. Kind of focusing on the NW Pinball Show right now and will have my High Speed with the new ramp in it in the show. Will see if that generates any interest for more. But, I have ordered more supplies and enough plastic for another 24. So there will be more in June.

Congrats on the High Speed! It is really a great game. There's another thread for the High Speed Club. Ramp info started on page 9 thought 14 or 15. There is also a part detailing the relocation of the stop light off the ramp. Put you on my "interested" list.

So... Got a reprieve from helping my son with his project for the NW Pinball Show on June 6th. I have my High Speed pretty dialed in now with the new playfield and of course, new ramp. So it's ready for the show. All that combined with forecast rain (Seattle...big surprise, huh?) I will start making more ramps tomorrow. Should have another dozen available next week. Hoping the show in Seattle generates some more interest.

Thanks to all who have purchased so far and the kind words. I think I'm going to try another one after this. I don't like to just reproduce something, I want to try and improve something. I think with High Speed the clear ramp was a good first choice. I am going to look at other System 11's with black ABS ramps and see if I can identify another that could use an update.

NW Pinball show is in a few weeks. Will be looking at System 11 (and 9) games and taking photos.

Formed 12 more clear ramps for High Speed today. Should be ready in a day of two.

Many thanks!

Answer to the second question first. NO>>>DON"T BORE THE HOLE BIGGER. When the game wiring harness was made, the male connector should have been put on the wires that attach to the diverter switch plate that is riveted to the bottom of the ramp. Instead, they put the larger female plug on the wires connected to the diverter. The playfield itself has a slot that the male plug would fit through. But since they did them backward it won't fit. So...the immediate solution is..(This will be easy if you have the playfield out of the cabinet)...you need to loosen the three screws on the right side that hold the playfield backboard on (There are three one each side). A little tough to reach if the playfield is in the game, but it can be done. Once those three screws are loosened, you can give the back board a little "rap" and it will come unstuck from the playfield on the right side. This combined with popping the two rubber loose that go around the diverter and you will be able to pull the plug up through. Earlier in the thread I did show photos of how I relocated the stop light. In those photos you can see the screws in the back board that I am talking about. For future, it would be best to reverse the plugs.

Now Question 1. Not sure which screws you are talking about. There are two screws on the front of the diverter plate that hold the diverter cover on. Are those the screws you're talking about? If so, do you not have a diverter cover? Maybe a photo?

If you have the ability to crimp new connectors, yes that is the best ultimate solution.

With testing the new ramp I have obviously taken in and out of the game more times than I can remember. Finally took the time to reverse the plugs on the diverter today so I don't have to remove the back board any more. Can't believe I waited this long.

Any Pinsiders going to the NW Pinball Show next week.... My High Speed with the clear ramp will be at the show.

Put my High Speed in the NW Pinball Show that opened today. Asked Steve Richie to check out a modification I did to my High Speed. He said, "let's go see it right now". Was very impressed with the new clear ramp. Even played a couple games.

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Stop Light Relocation. So far with the new ramps shipped, most have opted to relocate the stop light to the left rear corner. The existing wire harness will not reach the new location. Options are to splice in wire extensions or create a 12" "extension cord". I've made one for mine and for a playfield swap I'm doing right now. This will plug right into the existing Molex plugs on your game. Can make these available with future ramp orders for $8.

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It's a cover that attaches to the front of the piece to its left... Covers the switches underneath the ramp.

You'll just have to play lots of games so you break the black one! There were a couple guys who were in the same boat as you and resold their black ones.

You can make one pretty easily. One guy that was going to buy one of my ramps thought he was missing the piece, so just for fun took a playfield side rail (stainless steel) that was rusted in spots and cut a piece out of it and made one.

Last Call for new High Speed clear ramps....for now. I made 5 more ramps and now I will stop making them until probably late this fall...or time permitting based on weather. I know... weather???. I live in Seattle and you know our reputation for rain... So when it's nice you just have to take advantage. If it rains and there are requests I'll likely do them. I'm doing a clear and blue for Space Station in the next week or two then will likely do the same there...hold off until fall.

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The switch plate, the right hand side bracket, and the entrance bracket all should be riveted. Flap riveting is included with the ramp.

I have an F-14 and it is definitely on my list to do. That particular ramp typically does not get a lot of abuse, so plastic selection is broader. This particular ramp I am confident could be done in acrylic (High Speed was done in PETG). That opens up a full range of colors to use. I will be doing a transparent blue for Space Station in the next few days. The blue is gorgeous. If I did clear it would be PETG.

Ramp with flap $90
New Ball Guide $5
Assembly $20 (Based on just your ramp parts shipped to me) (I Also polish your metal parts)
Shipping and handling $15

Total $130

That price is based on you removing your parts from your ramp and just shipping the parts to me. I will dismantle the parts from your ramp for no additional charge, but if you want your old ramp back, add $5 for additional shipping...Total $135

Have 2 left for sale right now. Will make more in the late Fall.

I thought about remounting the flasher through the back board with a dome over it. Then I thought about re-tasking both of them..... Then I started on the Space Station ramp...DOH!. I'll get back to it this Fall....I Hope!

I'm down to my last 2 ramps...But don't worry... I will make more this Fall!

Time Out! The High Speed clear ramps are sold out for the time being. Want to enjoy a little Summer (rare thing in Seattle)....of course after I finish the first round of Space Station ramps. I will make more soon, so if interested let me know... Mark

I'm just about to complete my first round of Space Station clear and transparent blue ramps, then will be taking it a little easy for some Summer. Would not take me long to whip a few out. Stay in touch.

Been playing mine for a couple months now. Very quiet compared to the old one...Also, no need for that cover any more!

When I was set up to form the Space Station ramps, I went ahead and formed some more for High Speed... So have 4 or 5 available if interested.

Yes they are available. Actually forming some more today.

I still have my original pop caps, but decided to go with the transparent red ones. Available at most parts providers.... Here's Marco's...

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8254-9

I detailed the stop light relocation in the High Speed Club thread....

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-club-dispatch-this-is-504-we-have-a-club-now-over/page/15

Page 15... Sending PM

As far as under the ramp, there have been a lot of ideas tossed out, but frankly I don't even notice it on mine. I did however replace the two GI lights with red LED's so they weren't glaring at me.

I am presently forming the next batch of High Speed ramps. I have exchanged pm's with those interested at this time. If you would like one at this time let me know so I can make enough... Within 2 weeks I will also produce another batch of the blue Space Station ramps.....and... in the meantime.. with the help of another Pinsider, I will begin the next ramp project.

Always a good day when these come out of the final bath...
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I started a list just for you! #1

I will be doing the F-14 in both clear and colors. It's been a while since I had it apart, but clearly there is riveting involved, so I expect I will probably offer what I did with High Speed and that is the option for me to assemble the ramp from original parts. I'm excited to do the F-14...Because I have one!

I haven't looked real close at mine yet, but can see riveted parts. Generally I would identify the parts necessary to remove from yours to send to me, then I would attach to the new ramp...polishing parts if necessary. If someone wanted to send me the whole ramp for me to do the disassembly, I would simply charge a little more for the return shipping on the new and the old ones. Old ramp should fine.

Maybe...but would be a while since I've already committed to 2 others I want to do. I am limited at the moment as to the size of ramps I can do. Basically I need to build a bigger oven which I hope to do very soon. Always good to hear what people want and frankly that can drive me in a certain direction.

It's here! Working on it now.

I don't think I've ever posted a new assembled High Speed ramp. Also some photos of the metal before and after polishing. This one shipped out today to jcar302!

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On my list

I'm working diligently on a couple new ramps. I went ahead and formed 5 more ramps for High Speed and have sold 2... So three left. That's all for now. I will make more if there is interest after I complete the 2 new ramps I'm working on now.

Thanks to all who have purchased and for the great responses!

Last call for alcohol... I mean clear High Speed ramps. Only one left and probably won't get back to them until after the first of the year.

Thanks everyone!

Don't worry... You can still buy the more expensive stock black ones that require the cover over the ramp.

PM sent

Sure... I can make you one.

It's kind of hard to reuse the old ones unless you have a pin extractor tool...If you are ordering the pins, might as well just order the male and female plugs. Plug and pin size is .062

I had a couple requests for ramps after I had run out, so went ahead and produced 5 more. So if any interest at this time I have three available.....Mark

Mine was in good shape when I swapped it out. I find the swoop to the ball up the ramp much smoother and clearly much quieter than rattling up that black one.

LOL... seriously. F-14 is still on my list. The Genesis ramps are proving to be very difficult due to a bad design (not conducive to forming without telltale "marks" in the plastic) so I have been redesigning my machine to accommodate the process. Hope to test the new design tomorrow. Then I will be on to the Swords of Fury ramps and then the F-14 ramp. I don't own a SOF anymore, but I do own an F-14, so really excited to do that one.

After those I will be doing the Space Shuttle and then possibly Pinbot.

As far as the High Speed ramps, I did make some more and have 3 left at the moment.

PM sent

Due to the new shape of the ramp, that ball hang up wire is not needed.

I've sold out a few times, but when someone wants one, I just make 3 or 4 more.

Yes I still make them. No, they are not made of Lexan... PETG. On a scale of durability with acrylic on one end and Lexan on the other end, PETG is roughly in the center. While Lexan can be easily vacuum formed at very thin thicknesses, it is much more difficult when the product gets thicker. Typically I use 1/8" material. Lexan can retain moisture and in order to prepare it for thermo forming, it needs to be dried in a ventilated oven at about 140 degrees for up to a week. If that moisture is not removed, the plastic will bubble...just like boiling.

The ramp itself is $90. This includes the entrance flap installed. I also offer some extras. The metal parts on the ramp are riveted and few are set up to do the riveting, so I offer to do it for them for $20. This requires that you send me the metal parts off your ramp so that I can install them on the new ramp... I also polish the metal pieces to make them look good. Next, there is a metal ball guide on the inside of the uphill turn. Most are beat to crap so I also offer a spring steel replacement for another $5. Lastly, most have opted to relocate the stop light to the left rear corner. This requires that the wiring harness for the light be extended about 12". There are 4 leads which need to be extended...OR...I alos sell a Molex extension harness that will plug right in for the relocation...another $8

So..

Ramp with flap and predrilled $90
Shipping/handling $15

Options:
Assembly with your parts $20
New ball guide $5
Wire harness extension $8

Total package for everything $138

Most have opted for the whole deal. Also note that I do not drill into the ramp for the stop light mounting in it's original location. If you choose to keep the light there you will need to position the light, mark and drill those holes.

Generally I turn them in one day... Might be a little tough at this very moment as I am getting ready for the NW Pinball show next weekend as well as finishing the Swords of Fury ramps. I had one guy send me his parts on a Monday and he had the finish product back in his hands on Friday.

BTW...I am forming another batch of them this week.

Will be interested to see if your decal can work. The ramp has more "rounding" to it than the original. Did this to contain the ball and eliminate the need for the ugly cover. Anyway, if by chance the decal cannot handle the curvature of the ramp, another alternative would be to actually paint the roadbed on. Typically I think Krylon paint has degraded in quality over the years...However, this new product they have, Krylon Fusion for Plastic is a very awesome product. I have used it for "black" ramps with a result that is not only very durable (I prepaint the underside before machining out of the molds and with all the cutting, handling and sanding hold up very well) but the finish is awesome...very shiny...like black patton leather!

BTW, last year at the NW Pinball show when Steve Richie checked out my ramp (big thumbs up by the "man"), his initial observation was...it would look great with a roadbed on it!

Nice work! Steve Richie would approve!

Drano made those....see earlier in this thread. They would need to be installed before the ramp is riveted together since they go on the underside. Drano did his own riveting. He only made a few and they sold out quickly. When I showed the new ramp to Steve Richie at the NW Pinball show, he loved it and also thought it would look cool with a roadbed.

Check out the High Speed game thread... Looks like someone is going to make the ramp decals for both the clear and the stock black ramp... Since he is making them for the black ramp, is he planning on a decal for the top side????

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-club-dispatch-this-is-504-we-have-a-club-now-over/page/27#post-2720414

That's pretty cool. Nice to see other mods associated to my ramp!!!

Sending pm

pm sent...

I still make them...

Ordering info is on the first page of this thread. The only thing I have added is a Molex extension harness ($8) for those that want to relocate the stop light to the left rear corner and I do not pre-drill for the stop light to be mounted on the ramp.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-clear-ramp

pm sent to call me....

Yes, I still make them and they are available.

While I've had a clear ramp longer than anyone, I have the 2 flashers in the back disconnected. I did have a similar thought of domed flashers, but I envisioned mounting them through the back board.....like on F-14 Tomcat.

You will also notice with mine that it plays much quieter than the original black rattle trap ramp!

PM sent...

Been a while since I posted in here. Usually I just reply back for those interested in these ramps via email and I've had a lot of requests for this ramp recently. Since there is a lot involved with this ramp I started copying and pasting the detail for this one in the emails. Thought I'd just post it here....

High Speed is one of the ramps that I offer assembly on as well as a couple other "options". There are three metal pieces on the original ramp that must be transferred to the new ramp...Specifically...the large bracket on the left side, the main plate under the center and the small bracket at the exit. These pieces need to be riveted to the new ramp. I offer to do this as well as polish all the metal for $20...it's a good deal if you are not set up to rivet....almost everyone has me do the assembly...I've assembled over 100 of them. Additionally, most have opted to relocate the stop light to the left rear corner. This requires an extension to the games wire harness and I offer a Molex extension to make this easier. Lastly, the ball guide on the uphill inside turn is usually pretty beat up...I can install your old one or I offer a new spring steel piece for that for $5.

The ramp itself is available in clear or transparent red.

So, in summary...

New clear ramp w/flap $90
Transparent red ramp w/flap $100
Shipping $16

Options:

Assembly with your parts $20
Molex Harness extension $8
New ball guide $5

Obviously for me to do the assembly, you would need to remove the parts and send them to me. As far as the stop light is concerned, I do not predrill for it to me mounted on the ramp.. You would need to do that and if you decide to do that, I will instruct you on how to do it.

If I do the assembly, I can turn them in just one day.

pm sent

The ramp was designed to not need a cover.