High Speed Clear Ramp

(Topic ID: 90635)

High Speed Clear Ramp


By Freeplay40

4 years ago



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  • 234 posts
  • 66 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 days ago by Bax1
  • Topic is favorited by 63 Pinsiders

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There are 234 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 5.
#1 4 years ago

I've been chilling in the High Speed Club thread. Have provided ramps to all who showed initial interest and announced a "last call" for the time being while I help my son prepare for the NW Pinball Show the first week in June. I anticipate making more in June provided there is still interest. Details, photos,a short video and the history are contained in the High Speed Club thread, pages 9-16. New ramp eliminated the need for the ramp cover and is much quieter than the stock black ramp. Couple photos attached. Note relocation of stop light.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-club-dispatch-this-is-504-we-have-a-club-now-over/page/11

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#2 4 years ago

Receiving requests for the price and added some photos as well as a link to a short video.

The basic ramp will have a flap installed and all holes drilled for mounting. The stop light holes will be handled on a case by case basis. Either you want them or not. Reason for this is should you decide to relocate like I did, then to be clean will not want those holes drilled.
All aspects of the ramp and even a video of it in action are included within the High Speed Club thread…basically pages 9-16.

Goal was to produce a clear ramp and eliminate the need for the ramp cover. Additional benefit discovered after produced is that the new clear ramp is much quieter.

Ramp $90
Shipping/handling $15

So if you just want the ramp and can do your own assembly, total cost at this time will be $105

Along the way I came up with some options if you are interested.

Option 1. Send me your mounting parts and I will assemble/rivet. Beyond the flap, there are 7 other rivets necessary to attach the hardware to the ramp. For testing, I had tried using screws but quickly found they interfered with ball travel. So unless you are going to grind down the screw heads, rivets should really be used. This option would require that you send me your mounting parts and then I will rivet and test fit in my game. This option will allow you to immediately install in your game when you get it back. Cost for riveting and assembly $20... Photo of necessary parts attached.

Option 2 On the inside uphill curve of the ramp is a ¾” by about 6” metal ball guide. If your game is like most this piece of metal is probably beat up. This piece is just a chromed one side piece of metal… not stainless. I also offer a thinner, stronger piece of polished spring steel to replace this. Cost for this piece is $5

So in summary:

Ramp, drilled and entrance flap installed $90
Shipping to you $15
Option 1. I rivet and assemble using your parts $20
Option 2. New ball guide metal $5

So far most orders have opted for everything, mostly due to the fact that few have a rivet press.
I can accept Paypal at Freeplay40@yahoo.com

http://www.youtube.com/embed/9A90VD52m8A?autoplay=1&rel=0

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#3 4 years ago

$20 to not have to go through the buttpain of riveting a ramp, worth it IMO.

I don't have a HS but this is pretty cool.

#4 4 years ago

This is looking great! My High Speed is quite worn, but if I ever restore it, I hope these ramps will still be for sale!

#5 4 years ago

Well done.

If I still owned by HS, I'd be all over this. That old black ramp looks like crap compared to this thing.

Again, well done!

#6 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Well done.
If I still owned by HS, I'd be all over this. That old black ramp looks like crap compared to this thing.
Again, well done!

I've of course been looking at only the clear ramp in mine and when I see the photos of the black ones, I'm really glad I did this. Others are working on additional mods like decals for the ramp as well as a police car, unit #504 of course, under the left side of the ramp. I relocated my stoplight and now thinking maybe I need a new design. Fun stuff.

#7 4 years ago
Quoted from sven:

This is looking great! My High Speed is quite worn, but if I ever restore it, I hope these ramps will still be for sale!

At the moment I have three left. I will be making more after the NW Pinball show in Seattle the first week of June.

#8 4 years ago

That looks nice, Freeplay! It gives HS a whole new look. Im curious to see a future Tron-like mod with color changing rope lights that change from green to red with the traffic light

#9 4 years ago

I'm generally a more 'keep it original' kinda guy, but it is a neat mod. Functional, too!

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from JoelOmatik:

That looks nice, Freeplay! It gives HS a whole new look. Im curious to see a future Tron-like mod with color changing rope lights that change from green to red with the traffic light

I lay awake at night and think of things like this. There are new programmable color changing LED's that my son is working with... I'll have to talk to him.

#11 4 years ago

So at the moment I have 7 ramps to assemble once I receive the guy's parts in the mail and, I think, 2 ramps not spoken for. Kind of focusing on the NW Pinball Show right now and will have my High Speed with the new ramp in it in the show. Will see if that generates any interest for more. But, I have ordered more supplies and enough plastic for another 24. So there will be more in June.

#12 4 years ago

Please let me know in June , I will be all over this then, I just bought my HS, and there's tons to do b4 the ramp

#13 4 years ago

Please let me know in June!
I just bought my HS today, and there's tons to do
I'll be all over this ramp by then

#14 4 years ago

Congrats on the High Speed! It is really a great game. There's another thread for the High Speed Club. Ramp info started on page 9 thought 14 or 15. There is also a part detailing the relocation of the stop light off the ramp. Put you on my "interested" list.

#15 4 years ago

So... Got a reprieve from helping my son with his project for the NW Pinball Show on June 6th. I have my High Speed pretty dialed in now with the new playfield and of course, new ramp. So it's ready for the show. All that combined with forecast rain (Seattle...big surprise, huh?) I will start making more ramps tomorrow. Should have another dozen available next week. Hoping the show in Seattle generates some more interest.

Thanks to all who have purchased so far and the kind words. I think I'm going to try another one after this. I don't like to just reproduce something, I want to try and improve something. I think with High Speed the clear ramp was a good first choice. I am going to look at other System 11's with black ABS ramps and see if I can identify another that could use an update.

#16 4 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

think I'm going to try another one after this. I don't like to just reproduce something, I want to try and improve something. I think with High Speed the clear ramp was a good first choice. I am going to look at other System 11's with black ABS ramps and see if I can identify another that could use an update.

I'd love to see what you'd make for F-14, SoF, G Lizard, and Road Kings. Maybe clear dark green for GL, clear red white or blue for F-14, flame red for RK and red or dark clear charcoal for SoF. I don't know your expertise on plastic colorization, but I think you'll do a great job from what we've seen so far!

#17 4 years ago

NW Pinball show is in a few weeks. Will be looking at System 11 (and 9) games and taking photos.

#18 4 years ago
Quoted from JoelOmatik:

That looks nice, Freeplay! It gives HS a whole new look. Im curious to see a future Tron-like mod with color changing rope lights that change from green to red with the traffic light

That would be extremely easy to implement with a PIG2 IMO...

#19 4 years ago
Quoted from Frax:

That would be extremely easy to implement with a PIG2 IMO...

Easy for you....difficult for me. I'd have no idea where to even start with something like this.

#20 4 years ago

Formed 12 more clear ramps for High Speed today. Should be ready in a day of two.

#21 4 years ago

I just want to say that I received my ramp yesterday and it is the best thing to ever happen to this game. A million thanks to Freeplay40! Your product is amazing.

#23 4 years ago

Wow, just stumbled onto this thread. That clear ramp looks great! Awesome job there Freeplay!

#24 4 years ago

Thanks to your instructions, I got the ramp off. It was ALL about the secret screw behind the diverter.
1) One thing I don't understand at all is what the two small screws/nuts are on the lower front side of the upper section. I removed them, and I don't see what they were holding onto...
2) Once I disconnected the plug, it did not fit through the wood hole... Guess I'll have to desolder, remove the wire, then bore that hole out a little bigger?
-mof

Quoted from Freeplay40:

Since I've done this a gazillion times now....
There are two screws under the flap..
There are two screws on the left outer edge
There are two screws in the back that hold the switch plate to the diverter mechanism. You have to hold the diverter in the activated position to get one of them
There is one screw on the right side into the wood rail
Then you need to lift the playfield and unplug the wire from the ramp.
If your are lucky, the male end of the plug will be the one that goes to the ramp. Only the male plug will fit through the slot cut into the playfield to feed the wire up to the top. Will also help to pop the two rubber bands in the back loose on the right side. If your game is like most so far, the bigger female plug is the one on the ramp harness. In order to get this through the playfield so you can remove the ramp, you will need to remove at least the three screws on the right side of the machine that hold the back board on. (Look back through thread to see my stop light relocation photos...there you can see the three screws I'm talking about) If you remove the playfield this is really easy to see. It can be done with the playfield lifted and a little coordination. With those 3 screws removed, you can give a light "rap" to that side of the backboard and it will pop loose giving you enough room to feed the wire through.

#25 4 years ago

Answer to the second question first. NO>>>DON"T BORE THE HOLE BIGGER. When the game wiring harness was made, the male connector should have been put on the wires that attach to the diverter switch plate that is riveted to the bottom of the ramp. Instead, they put the larger female plug on the wires connected to the diverter. The playfield itself has a slot that the male plug would fit through. But since they did them backward it won't fit. So...the immediate solution is..(This will be easy if you have the playfield out of the cabinet)...you need to loosen the three screws on the right side that hold the playfield backboard on (There are three one each side). A little tough to reach if the playfield is in the game, but it can be done. Once those three screws are loosened, you can give the back board a little "rap" and it will come unstuck from the playfield on the right side. This combined with popping the two rubber loose that go around the diverter and you will be able to pull the plug up through. Earlier in the thread I did show photos of how I relocated the stop light. In those photos you can see the screws in the back board that I am talking about. For future, it would be best to reverse the plugs.

Now Question 1. Not sure which screws you are talking about. There are two screws on the front of the diverter plate that hold the diverter cover on. Are those the screws you're talking about? If so, do you not have a diverter cover? Maybe a photo?

#26 4 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Answer to the second question first. NO>>>DON"T BORE THE HOLE BIGGER. When the game wiring harness was made, the male connector should have been put on the wires that attach to the diverter switch plate that is riveted to the bottom of the ramp. Instead, they put the larger female plug on the wires connected to the diverter. The playfield itself has a slot that the male plug would fit through. But since they did them backward it won't fit. So...the immediate solution is..(This will be easy if you have the playfield out of the cabinet)...you need to loosen the three screws on the right side that hold the playfield backboard on (There are three one each side). A little tough to reach if the playfield is in the game, but it can be done. Once those three screws are loosened, you can give the back board a little "rap" and it will come unstuck from the playfield on the right side. This combined with popping the two rubber loose that go around the diverter and you will be able to pull the plug up through. Earlier in the thread I did show photos of how I relocated the stop light. In those photos you can see the screws in the back board that I am talking about. For future, it would be best to reverse the plugs.
Now Question 1. Not sure which screws you are talking about. There are two screws on the front of the diverter plate that hold the diverter cover on. Are those the screws you're talking about? If so, do you not have a diverter cover? Maybe a photo?

(I'm not in front of the machine atm) -- are you saying the best solution is remove the male and female side of the wires and reverse them, since the male connector will make it through the hole?

Brilliant! This is exactly why I like to ask questions on Pinside before going into surgery blind... I have a hunch there's a smarter way, but it doesn't mean I'll be the one to see the solution first.

thanks!
-mof

#27 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

(I'm not in front of the machine atm) -- are you saying the best solution is remove the male and female side of the wires and reverse them, since the male connector will make it through the hole?
Brilliant! This is exactly why I like to ask questions on Pinside before going into surgery blind... I have a hunch there's a smarter way, but it doesn't mean I'll be the one to see the solution first.
thanks!
-mof

If you have the ability to crimp new connectors, yes that is the best ultimate solution.

#28 4 years ago

With testing the new ramp I have obviously taken in and out of the game more times than I can remember. Finally took the time to reverse the plugs on the diverter today so I don't have to remove the back board any more. Can't believe I waited this long.

#29 4 years ago

Any Pinsiders going to the NW Pinball Show next week.... My High Speed with the clear ramp will be at the show.

1 week later
#30 4 years ago

Put my High Speed in the NW Pinball Show that opened today. Asked Steve Richie to check out a modification I did to my High Speed. He said, "let's go see it right now". Was very impressed with the new clear ramp. Even played a couple games.

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#31 4 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Put my High Speed in the NW Pinball Show that opened today. Asked Steve Richie to check out a modification I did to my High Speed. He said, "let's go see it right now". Was very impressed with the new clear ramp. Even played a couple games.

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Awesome. Very cool.. Your ramp is a great improvement as Steve also agrees.

1 week later
#32 4 years ago

Stop Light Relocation. So far with the new ramps shipped, most have opted to relocate the stop light to the left rear corner. The existing wire harness will not reach the new location. Options are to splice in wire extensions or create a 12" "extension cord". I've made one for mine and for a playfield swap I'm doing right now. This will plug right into the existing Molex plugs on your game. Can make these available with future ramp orders for $8.

Stop Light Extension.JPG
#33 4 years ago

In the picture of the required hardware, what is the long L-shaped piece, 2nd from the left? I don't seem to have that.

#34 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Thanks to your instructions, I got the ramp off. It was ALL about the secret screw behind the diverter.
1) One thing I don't understand at all is what the two small screws/nuts are on the lower front side of the upper section. I removed them, and I don't see what they were holding onto...

I know what you're talking about. I'm not sure what they are for either. They look like they could've held some kind of overpass sign or something, but I don't see anything there in any pictures of the game.

#35 4 years ago
Quoted from floyd1977:

In the picture of the required hardware, what is the long L-shaped piece, 2nd from the left? I don't seem to have that.

It's a cover that attaches to the front of the piece to its left... Covers the switches underneath the ramp.

#36 4 years ago

Wish I would have seen this before I bought a new black one a week or so ago..

#37 4 years ago
Quoted from paulywalnuts23:

Wish I would have seen this before I bought a new black one a week or so ago..

You'll just have to play lots of games so you break the black one! There were a couple guys who were in the same boat as you and resold their black ones.

#38 4 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

It's a cover that attaches to the front of the piece to its left... Covers the switches underneath the ramp.

Ugh. I'm kicking myself now. I just sold a spare ramp on eBay that had that part. I didn't notice the ramp I held onto was missing that part.

#39 4 years ago

You can make one pretty easily. One guy that was going to buy one of my ramps thought he was missing the piece, so just for fun took a playfield side rail (stainless steel) that was rusted in spots and cut a piece out of it and made one.

3 weeks later
#40 4 years ago

Got my ramp today. As I eased it out of the box, my eyes welled with water as the dim lights in the room shimmered across the solid clear polished curves of the ramp -- my heart skipped a few beats.

Such beauty. Installing it now.

thank you!
-mof

201407-HS-freeplay40-ramp.jpg
2 weeks later
#41 4 years ago

Last Call for new High Speed clear ramps....for now. I made 5 more ramps and now I will stop making them until probably late this fall...or time permitting based on weather. I know... weather???. I live in Seattle and you know our reputation for rain... So when it's nice you just have to take advantage. If it rains and there are requests I'll likely do them. I'm doing a clear and blue for Space Station in the next week or two then will likely do the same there...hold off until fall.

Last call ramps 1.JPG Last call ramps 2.JPG
#42 4 years ago

Great job!

#43 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Got my ramp today. As I eased it out of the box, my eyes welled with water as the dim lights in the room shimmered across the solid clear polished curves of the ramp -- my heart skipped a few beats.
Such beauty. Installing it now.
thank you!
-mof

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AAHH is this the mounting hardware you mention? aka the $20 to rivet?

#44 4 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

AAHH is this the mounting hardware you mention? aka the $20 to rivet?

The switch plate, the right hand side bracket, and the entrance bracket all should be riveted. Flap riveting is included with the ramp.

#45 4 years ago

how about a clear ramp for F-14?

-c

#46 4 years ago
Quoted from CraigC:

how about a clear ramp for F-14?
-c

I have an F-14 and it is definitely on my list to do. That particular ramp typically does not get a lot of abuse, so plastic selection is broader. This particular ramp I am confident could be done in acrylic (High Speed was done in PETG). That opens up a full range of colors to use. I will be doing a transparent blue for Space Station in the next few days. The blue is gorgeous. If I did clear it would be PETG.

#47 4 years ago

Just so I fully understand....

I can ship you my old ramp, and you'll transfer all the needed parts and install a new entrance flap, for $125? Then, all I do is install the complete assembly?

Thanks for the clarification.

#48 4 years ago

Ramp with flap $90
New Ball Guide $5
Assembly $20 (Based on just your ramp parts shipped to me) (I Also polish your metal parts)
Shipping and handling $15

Total $130

That price is based on you removing your parts from your ramp and just shipping the parts to me. I will dismantle the parts from your ramp for no additional charge, but if you want your old ramp back, add $5 for additional shipping...Total $135

Have 2 left for sale right now. Will make more in the late Fall.

#49 4 years ago

I like the new location of the stop light. Too bad that flasher in the back left corner is in plain sight now through the ramp. Any ideas on how to conceal it? Perhaps a red dome attached to the backboard? Nice work Freeplay40!

#50 4 years ago
Quoted from prock:

I like the new location of the stop light. Too bad that flasher in the back left corner is in plain sight now through the ramp. Any ideas on how to conceal it? Perhaps a red dome attached to the backboard? Nice work Freeplay40!

I thought about remounting the flasher through the back board with a dome over it. Then I thought about re-tasking both of them..... Then I started on the Space Station ramp...DOH!. I'll get back to it this Fall....I Hope!

There are 234 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 5.

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