(Topic ID: 203005)

High Speed blows F5 fixed, now GI out (Fixed: fuses)

By MRudowsky

6 years ago


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  • 35 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by MRudowsky
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#1 6 years ago

Hey everyone. I’m a noob to repair and could use some help. I pulled my ramp to fix an issue with the divertor. It was sticking so I applied a little oil (zoom spout oiler) to the ends of the shafts with a Q-tip and it no longer sticks so I thought I was set.

I put the ramp back together and when I turn the game on, there’s a buzz, all the coils fire, and then the F5 fuse blows. The GI stays on.

I did put fuses on the bridge rectifiers since that had never been done.
Replacing F5 just causes it to blow again at powerup even with the coin door open (thought that might keep the coils from firing but I guess not).

I’ve looked to see if I pinched any wires but I don’t see anything. If I pull the 12 pin connector off the power board it doesn’t blow F5 but nothing works. I haven’t figured out which wire powers what in that connector.

Where’s a good place to start troubleshooting? I’ve tried a number of searches but haven’t been successful.

Thanks!

#3 6 years ago

Without the 12 pin connected, I only have GI, the same as after F5 blows. I'll look into testing the voltages later tonight. Thanks for the reply!

#5 6 years ago

Thanks! I have been very aware of the orientation of the connectors and ensuring they’re back where they should be.

Earlier I removed all of the connectors from the power board and connected just the 12 pin I was talking about (which I now know is 3J1). That alone blows F5 on power up.

Ive been looking for a guide on testing the voltages but haven’t found anything. Is there a link anyone can suggest?

#8 6 years ago

Test point 1 = -14.56
Test point 2 = -.3
Test point 3 = 14.19
Test point 4 = -14.55

And that’s without a fuse in F5.

The part number on the bridges is Central CBR-35-010 which I don’t find anywhere. I’ve seen that the comparable part number is KBPC3501. Does that seem right?

Anything else I should put in an order (caps, transistors, etc). Or even recommendations for good ones to have on hand, since I have none?

#10 6 years ago

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#11 6 years ago

And that yellow cut wire in the middle (bottom left of the middle fuse chart) is attached to the back side of the special solenoid fuse for some reason.

#14 6 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

This soldered to the back of the board? Then remove it when you rebuild this power supply.

Yep. And I will. Thanks so much. I’ll report back when I get parts.

#17 6 years ago

And of course the cap kit is out of stock. I’ll have some board help, but this will be my first experience.

#19 6 years ago

Great! I think I’ve read Terry’s guides before but will definitely revisit them.

#20 6 years ago

Correction. I had the wrong test point for #1(noob at work). The correct reading is .33. So definitely not the 5 it should.

#21 6 years ago

Having second thoughts on attempting the board work myself. Looking at the Inkochnito bridge board and a Rottendog power supply. I want to get the game back up and running quickly. I’ll then get some practice on board work before tackling this one.

Thoughts?

#22 6 years ago

Latest update: I picked up an Inkochnito Bridge Board and was able to borrow a Rottendog power board while my power supply is getting rebuilt. Voltages are now correct and the game boots, starts, and plays fine. (And the divertor which was what I was fixing when I started works perfectly)

Now the only remaining problem (which is new) is that some of the lamps are on during game play when they shouldn’t be. Specifically, the left Special, left Freeway, the Escape, the 4 target by the right out lane, maybe the 2000, 3000, and 4000 bonus lights(I think), and sometimes the 5X multiplier. Also, on the ramp stoplight, the yellow light is lit at game start rather than green. See pic for example.

These are LED lamps throughout that I put in months ago, but this wasn’t happening before the power problem.

Any ideas?

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#24 6 years ago

Well found where the problem is. I disconnected the lights for the ramp stoplight and all the other lamps work as they should. So there’s something going on with these 3 lights. I guess it makes sense since both the red/yellow and yellow/blue wires are involved.

#25 6 years ago

And after pulling the bundle out and looking it over, I plugged it back in and it’s working. Everything is back to working as it should.

Many thanks for the help @grumpy! I learned a lot on this one. Once my power supply comes back, I’m hopeful this one will be closed.

#26 6 years ago

...and now the GI is out. I was reconnecting the plastic at the entrance of the ramp and I think the screw went through or made contact with the GI wire(with the power on). This was a previous problem that I redid some of the GI wire to correct.

Now all of the GI is out. I’ve tested continuity across all of the bulbs in the area of the screw and everything seems to have connectivity. Where should I look now?

#28 6 years ago

Yes, all 4 (I didn’t realize there were 4 but all the GI on the playfield is out, the back box is fine). Initially it was just the left side of the playfield by the ramp entrance. Then the rest of the playfield GI went out a little later.

I did look at the fuses, none appeared to be blown, but I didn’t pull them to test. I wasn’t sure which one specifically would be for the GI, especially with the Rottendog in play. Everything else works though.

#31 6 years ago

Thanks guys! It was the fuses. Pulled all four and tested, two were blown even though they looked good visually.

And now I know which fuse is for which string:

Left backbox
Left playfield
Right backbox
Right playfield

Perfect! Now I’ll try and go longer than an hour before I mess something else up!

#33 6 years ago

Oh, I am! Thanks again! Was also pleasantly surprised to find out that Home Depot carries 5A sloblow fuses (Lowe’s only carries them in an expensive multipack that has one 5A per packj.

GAME ON!!

#35 6 years ago

I did, so that’s good to know, thanks.

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