(Topic ID: 203005)

High Speed blows F5 fixed, now GI out (Fixed: fuses)


By MRudowsky

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 35 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by MRudowsky
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 2 years ago

Hey everyone. I’m a noob to repair and could use some help. I pulled my ramp to fix an issue with the divertor. It was sticking so I applied a little oil (zoom spout oiler) to the ends of the shafts with a Q-tip and it no longer sticks so I thought I was set.

I put the ramp back together and when I turn the game on, there’s a buzz, all the coils fire, and then the F5 fuse blows. The GI stays on.

I did put fuses on the bridge rectifiers since that had never been done.
Replacing F5 just causes it to blow again at powerup even with the coin door open (thought that might keep the coils from firing but I guess not).

I’ve looked to see if I pinched any wires but I don’t see anything. If I pull the 12 pin connector off the power board it doesn’t blow F5 but nothing works. I haven’t figured out which wire powers what in that connector.

Where’s a good place to start troubleshooting? I’ve tried a number of searches but haven’t been successful.

Thanks!

#2 2 years ago
Quoted from MRudowsky:

If I pull the 12 pin connector off the power board it doesn’t blow F5 but nothing works.

What do you mean nothing works? If you are not getting 5 volts anymore then this may have been a coincidence that the bridge rectifier decided to short at this time. You should check all the voltages on the power supply.

#3 2 years ago

Without the 12 pin connected, I only have GI, the same as after F5 blows. I'll look into testing the voltages later tonight. Thanks for the reply!

#4 2 years ago

On top of what GRUMPY stated, be sure you check any connectors you removed to be sure you did not plug it back in off by one pin. Even though some connectors are keyed, it still may be possible to connect some incorrectly.

#5 2 years ago

Thanks! I have been very aware of the orientation of the connectors and ensuring they’re back where they should be.

Earlier I removed all of the connectors from the power board and connected just the 12 pin I was talking about (which I now know is 3J1). That alone blows F5 on power up.

Ive been looking for a guide on testing the voltages but haven’t found anything. Is there a link anyone can suggest?

#6 2 years ago
Quoted from MRudowsky:

Is there a link anyone can suggest?

I don't know, but here's what you do, you disconnect all connectors from the power supply except 3J1 as this is the AC input to the board. Then use a DMM to test the DC outputs. Set DMM to DC 200 volts and stick black lead under the ground braid and use the red lead for testing. Test point #1 (5 volt) is near the top to the left of the cement resistor. Test point #3 (12 volt) is in a group of 3 test points near the bottom of the board. Test point #4 (-12 volt) is next to test point 2 and 3. Post your results.

#7 2 years ago

Now if f-5 blows with just 3J1 connected then the bridge rectifier is shorted and needs to be replaced at a minimum.

#8 2 years ago

Test point 1 = -14.56
Test point 2 = -.3
Test point 3 = 14.19
Test point 4 = -14.55

And that’s without a fuse in F5.

The part number on the bridges is Central CBR-35-010 which I don’t find anywhere. I’ve seen that the comparable part number is KBPC3501. Does that seem right?

Anything else I should put in an order (caps, transistors, etc). Or even recommendations for good ones to have on hand, since I have none?

#9 2 years ago

Post a pic of the power supply.

#10 2 years ago

3F5D472A-C39E-411D-B79E-CC44617885C8 (resized).jpeg

#11 2 years ago

And that yellow cut wire in the middle (bottom left of the middle fuse chart) is attached to the back side of the special solenoid fuse for some reason.

#13 2 years ago
Quoted from MRudowsky:

And that yellow cut wire in the middle (bottom left of the middle fuse chart) is attached to the back side of the special solenoid fuse for some reason.

This soldered to the back of the board? Then remove it when you rebuild this power supply.

#14 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

This soldered to the back of the board? Then remove it when you rebuild this power supply.

Yep. And I will. Thanks so much. I’ll report back when I get parts.

#16 2 years ago

Do you know how to do board work?

#17 2 years ago

And of course the cap kit is out of stock. I’ll have some board help, but this will be my first experience.

#18 2 years ago
Quoted from MRudowsky:

And of course the cap kit is out of stock. I’ll have some board help, but this will be my first experience.

There is many places to buy these caps but prices very greatly. Terry B on pinsides has some very helpful soldering guides you should read first.

#19 2 years ago

Great! I think I’ve read Terry’s guides before but will definitely revisit them.

#20 2 years ago

Correction. I had the wrong test point for #1(noob at work). The correct reading is .33. So definitely not the 5 it should.

#21 2 years ago

Having second thoughts on attempting the board work myself. Looking at the Inkochnito bridge board and a Rottendog power supply. I want to get the game back up and running quickly. I’ll then get some practice on board work before tackling this one.

Thoughts?

#22 2 years ago

Latest update: I picked up an Inkochnito Bridge Board and was able to borrow a Rottendog power board while my power supply is getting rebuilt. Voltages are now correct and the game boots, starts, and plays fine. (And the divertor which was what I was fixing when I started works perfectly)

Now the only remaining problem (which is new) is that some of the lamps are on during game play when they shouldn’t be. Specifically, the left Special, left Freeway, the Escape, the 4 target by the right out lane, maybe the 2000, 3000, and 4000 bonus lights(I think), and sometimes the 5X multiplier. Also, on the ramp stoplight, the yellow light is lit at game start rather than green. See pic for example.

These are LED lamps throughout that I put in months ago, but this wasn’t happening before the power problem.

Any ideas?

27106A18-DB1A-463A-8771-31C1C4E2707F (resized).jpeg

#23 2 years ago
Quoted from MRudowsky:

but this wasn’t happening before the power problem.

Some of these lamps are on the red/yellow wire, the others are on the yellow/blue wire. Could you have bumped a lamp socket into another one during the ramp repairs?

#24 2 years ago

Well found where the problem is. I disconnected the lights for the ramp stoplight and all the other lamps work as they should. So there’s something going on with these 3 lights. I guess it makes sense since both the red/yellow and yellow/blue wires are involved.

#25 2 years ago

And after pulling the bundle out and looking it over, I plugged it back in and it’s working. Everything is back to working as it should.

Many thanks for the help grumpy! I learned a lot on this one. Once my power supply comes back, I’m hopeful this one will be closed.

#26 2 years ago

...and now the GI is out. I was reconnecting the plastic at the entrance of the ramp and I think the screw went through or made contact with the GI wire(with the power on). This was a previous problem that I redid some of the GI wire to correct.

Now all of the GI is out. I’ve tested continuity across all of the bulbs in the area of the screw and everything seems to have connectivity. Where should I look now?

#27 2 years ago
Quoted from MRudowsky:

Now all of the GI is out.

All 4 strings are out?
You have checked the fuses.

#28 2 years ago

Yes, all 4 (I didn’t realize there were 4 but all the GI on the playfield is out, the back box is fine). Initially it was just the left side of the playfield by the ramp entrance. Then the rest of the playfield GI went out a little later.

I did look at the fuses, none appeared to be blown, but I didn’t pull them to test. I wasn’t sure which one specifically would be for the GI, especially with the Rottendog in play. Everything else works though.

#29 2 years ago
Quoted from MRudowsky:

all the GI on the playfield is out, the back box is fine)

This is just 2 strings. There is a group of four fuses just below the power supply for the GI lamps. Two of these fuses are for the p/f and two are for the BB. You should check these first. They should be 5 amp slow blow.

#30 2 years ago
Quoted from MRudowsky:

I did look at the fuses, none appeared to be blown, but I didn’t pull them to test. I wasn’t sure which one specifically would be for the GI, especially with the Rottendog in play. Everything else works though.

If your fuses are actually good, also inspect the 4 pin yellow connector in the bottom cabinet that comes from the AC transformer for burn marks and corroded pins.

With the game on, unplug and replug this connector with the y-y-y/wh-/wh wires and see if the GI returns. Likewise, the yellow GI connector at the power supply (in the bottom of your picture) can suffer this fate as well. Those two plugs are some simple fixes, often overlooked.

#31 2 years ago

Thanks guys! It was the fuses. Pulled all four and tested, two were blown even though they looked good visually.

And now I know which fuse is for which string:

Left backbox
Left playfield
Right backbox
Right playfield

Perfect! Now I’ll try and go longer than an hour before I mess something else up!

#32 2 years ago

Playball!

#33 2 years ago

Oh, I am! Thanks again! Was also pleasantly surprised to find out that Home Depot carries 5A sloblow fuses (Lowe’s only carries them in an expensive multipack that has one 5A per packj.

GAME ON!!

#34 2 years ago

You said that your changed to leds on the inserts, did you change the GI to leds. If so you can change thr fuses to 1 amp.

#35 2 years ago

I did, so that’s good to know, thanks.

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