(Topic ID: 206137)

High Roller Casino flippers lock on

By jmountjoy111

6 years ago


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#1 6 years ago

Something continuously causes the transistors on the driver board to short and lock the flippers on. I have replaced the transistors with irl540n. The coils show around 4ohm resistance so I am assuming they are good. The game was playing fine and then went crazy. Any ideas where to look next.

#2 6 years ago

Not much else to consider.
Make sure that the new FET connections are all solid.

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#3 6 years ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

Not much else to consider.
Make sure that the new FET connections are all solid.

Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

That’s what I thought.

I replaced the transistors and then fired the game up. The flippers locked again. I then replaced the transistors again this time I checked the continuity at each point to make sure there were no shorts and that connections were good. The end result was the same. Two shorted out IRL540n.

In the morning I’m going to pull the driver out of my nascar and see if I can narrow it down to the board or the playfield wiring.

#4 6 years ago

Ok so the problem is in the board. My nascar board works perfectly in the hrc. Any ideas. Could the u2 chip cause this? If the bridge was bad wouldn’t it blow fuses and not transistors? Could it be the bridge

#5 6 years ago

Send the board to Chris Hibler for repair. That way you’ll know it’s done properly.

#6 6 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Send the board to Chris Hibler for repair. That way you’ll know it’s done properly.

Where’s the fun in that

#7 6 years ago

Playing a working game is the most fun

#8 6 years ago

I actually enjoy the feeling of getting one working more than playing. Maybe I am weird lol. I have other games to play. I know the board would be a simple fix and Chris or any number of other excellent, way smarter than me, techs could have it up and running in minutes but I love that feeling of fixing it.

#9 6 years ago

Totally get it. I enjoy fixing things as well but I trust Chris a lot so I know when to send stuff as needed.

#10 6 years ago

Thanks guys.
Good on you for isolating to the driver board.

At this point, I'd diode test U2, which drives Q15 and Q16, the flipper FETs.
Compare the results to diode test of U3.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit

You could also use a logic probe on pins 12, 15, 16, and 19.
Pins 12 and 15 should be at the "normal" state when no coils are energized.
Pins 16 and 19 should match that state. If they don't, then U2 is toast.

Let us know what you find.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#11 6 years ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

Thanks guys.
Good on you for isolating to the driver board.
At this point, I'd diode test U2, which drives Q15 and Q16, the flipper FETs.
Compare the results to diode test of U3.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit
You could also use a logic probe on pins 12, 15, 16, and 19.
Pins 12 and 15 should be at the "normal" state when no coils are energized.
Pins 16 and 19 should match that state. If they don't, then U2 is toast.
Let us know what you find.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

I haven’t given up or forgot about this lol. I have been going crazy trying to fix a bad cats this last week. I am going to get back to work on the high roller casino this week. Possibly even tonight. I’m going to diode test that u2 ic and I’ll report back what I find.

Thank you so much for the help btw

#12 6 years ago

I cannot help you fix it but I would like to say I like high rollers.
I played it at Allentown last year.

#13 6 years ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

Thanks guys.
Good on you for isolating to the driver board.
At this point, I'd diode test U2, which drives Q15 and Q16, the flipper FETs.
Compare the results to diode test of U3.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit
You could also use a logic probe on pins 12, 15, 16, and 19.
Pins 12 and 15 should be at the "normal" state when no coils are energized.
Pins 16 and 19 should match that state. If they don't, then U2 is toast.
Let us know what you find.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

I diode tested u2 and the reading compared to that of u1 and u3. I do not have a logic probe. I guess it’s possible that the chip is malfunctioning under a load. I removed the old chip and put a socket in. I have a new chip on order that should be here by the end of the week. I am going to replace the transistors again and hopefully this will do the trick

#14 6 years ago

I replaced the u2 chip And the transistors. I reinstalled it in the game. The right flipper locked after the first time I pushed the button. The transistor is shorted. I turned it off but I’m sure it would have shorted the left one too.

I moved the board into a fully working nascar to eliminate it being the game itself. The high roller casino is fully working with the nascar driver board in it also.

I’m not really sure what would be causing the issue. It has to be located specifically on the power driver board since it has the same issue in two different games.

#15 6 years ago

Hard to say what the next step would be now.
I'd re-examine all prior work. Make sure connections that should be there are. Make sure you haven't created a bridge somewhere.

If you'd like to send it to me for repair, I'm happy to help.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

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