(Topic ID: 168821)

High end wood rail wood restoration?


By Fortytwo

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 6 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by P2K
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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    SDC12393 (resized).jpg

    #1 3 years ago

    I recently received a restored wood rail game in a buy. I don't have plans on keeping it and the wood wood is the only part needs to be refinished before reassembly. The cabinet trim and 2/3rds of the legs are sanded and ready, I still need to sand down the playfeild surround.
    What is the best, highest regarded finish for this wood. I don't want to reduce the value of the game with everything else in perfect shape. I have used Tung oil on a skill roll and puck bowling games, gives a nice Amber color and not picky with recoat times. I have heard about using polyurethane. I saw Clay also use a yellow orange stain before poly. This game looks new.

    what's the recommended best option for a restored wood rail game.
    Thanks
    FortyTwo

    #2 3 years ago

    Anyone?

    #3 3 years ago

    For mine always lacquer, the original finish.

    Alan

    #4 3 years ago

    Do you stain? I have never worked with lacquer. Must research. Does it apply similar to Tung oil?

    #5 3 years ago
    Quoted from P2K:

    For mine always lacquer, the original finish.
    Alan

    That's what I hear is the correct way of doing it.

    I don't think it is necessary to stain, just sand and clear lacquer.

    Pic of what it looks like - not done by me. Just one of my games.

    I tend to follow previous advice and use lacquer thinner and then wax it.

    SDC12393 (resized).jpg

    #6 3 years ago
    Quoted from P2K:

    For mine always lacquer, the original finish.
    Alan

    >>Do you stain? I have never worked with lacquer. Must research. Does it apply similar to Tung oil?

    You can spray from a can (Deft) or brush from a can. Very easy and forgiving. Dries very fast. But vapors are bad so do it outdoors and don't breath in the vapors.

    On the rare occasion I sanded the trim I did use a Minwax Gunstock stain, then lacquer. But that was to try to blend in with other trim not sanded.
    If all trim is sanded then you can just lacquer since that is what they did originally. The original wood trim when new was not stained, it was left natural. It darkened over time.

    After the lacquer is dry I wax with Johnsons paste wax using a 0000 steel wool pad for the applicator. That really smooths things out and gives a richer sheen.

    Currently I try to avoid sanding the wood trim if it is in half decent shape. I now use this technique:

    Alan

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