Defeating the thunk.
I can do it for you if you’d like.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Gottlieb_System_80#Power_on_.22Thunk.22
—
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

The arrow points to the negative terminal.
Also, each terminal on the SuperCap is stamped with either + or -.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

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Your MPU is entirely repairable.
The alkaline corrosion must be abated properly. If not, then the corrosion will return.
I can take care of the board if you'd like.

If you take it on yourself, you can ease the job by using a modern reset generator as described here at the link below. I just added a new diagram to show what should be removed, what needs to stay, and where to add jumpers.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Gottlieb_System_80#Using_a_Reset_Generator_for_the_CPU_Reset_Section

The most important System 80 issues are...
...edge connectors. They need to be clean and shiny. Re-tin them rather than sanding to bare copper. Re-pin the female connectors if they have been impacted.
...ground modifications (also explained in the PinWiki).
..."Big Orange", the cap in the cabinet.

Good Luck!
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Well, that might make a slight dent in the corrosion, but it doesn't get nearly all of what is required. It's a topical treatment for a deeply embedded problem.

Zep, Mustard, Toilet Bowl Cleaner, bead blasting...none of them do the job properly.
Here is the only way to ensure that corrosion is abated forever.

--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

You might as well go all the way and remove the whole reset section. There is a new diagram in the PinWiki which shows which parts to remove to retain. You will need to pick up a reset generator as explained in the PinWiki.
—
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

DigiKey won't ship singles of that part, but it would work.
The alternative part, MCP130-460DI/TO-ND, DigiKey doesn't stock and Mouser is out of them.
If you can't find one at your favorite supplier, I'll send you one. No biggie at all.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Yep. The original ROM is cooked.
Well done on the new "burn".
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

That part will work, but the pinout is different. Therefore, legs would have to be re-routed.
It is closer to the MCP130-460HI/TO, but backwards. The "HI" indicates the pinout.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Your desoldering iron might be a tad too hot.
I use "trace wire" or clipped resistor leads to rebuild the traces.
Whatever gets it done...short of lamp cord.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info