Absolutely amazing. Thanks for taking the time to document. I love reading restoration threads.
Translite panel is split up.
image (resized).jpg
Channels look to be fairly new and fit like replacements which are generally too tight. image (resized).jpg
The translite itself is clean but taped to the glass and also has a mysterious taped section in the center. image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
The eggshell is dirty and has tape/tape residue in the channel areas. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
Inside eggshell is not too bad image (resized).jpg
My first preference is to leave the eggshell intact and wash it thoroughly.
The reason for that is that more often than not the lamp sockets can break or housing crack during removal. Anytime you have heat,age and plastic the odds are against trouble free disassembly.
image (resized).jpg
Complete teardown and refinishing is something I save for extreme cases where the benefits outweigh the risk so Iwill clean it first and decide from there
The tape and glue are removed and I will see if I can salvage this translite.
If not replacements are available. image (resized).jpg
I do a light check to see what touch ups might be needed. image (resized).jpg
Touch ups are done and I rebond it with carpet tape
I like that for this because it is paper thin,sticky,strong and translucent.
image (resized).jpg
It may show a slight grid pattern when lit but for now this is just a quick attempt to save the translite if possible but do something that will last.
I place and trim small a few sections of wax paper to the back of the carpet tape so the translite won’t stick to anything when flipped. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Translite is flipped.
Repair looks close to invisible image (resized).jpg
Then light checked. It isn’t perfect but it doesn’t look any different than any other lightly scratched translite.
image (resized).jpg
It is a nothing to lose repair and is good practice in the event I am dealing with something I cannot replace.
What I will do from here is just use it for the time being and consult with the owner to see if he wants a new one since this is a little borderline or judgment call
I'd probably stay with this translite knowing I could always replace it someday. Machine would be more original.
Quoted from mcbPalisade:I'd probably stay with this translite knowing I could always replace it someday. Machine would be more original.
This is my thought as well not so much because of originality but because I have heard mixed reviews on the reproduction translites.
I wouldn’t hesitate to use one if absolutely needed just not sure this quite justifies it.
Speaker panel torn down.
It will need to be replaced after I was able to fully evaluate it.
5C040F8D-2820-4649-9865-7E0ACD9A4700 (resized).jpeg
Worn script41BBCF6D-E59D-4734-9CB8-C0A3A978934F (resized).jpeg
Broken window keeper tabs D7A56B65-55A8-4375-91CD-D8E417E0E46B (resized).jpeg
Bent grill
BCCE6D6B-44E8-4D81-B6D2-5BA7F816FA89 (resized).jpeg
I will steal the larger speaker housing from the left side and use it on the new panel when it arrives and I rebuild.
Boards are being removed. As I unplug everything I notice this at connector J107.
Plugged in upside down
image (resized).jpg
It is keyed and should actually go to J114
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image (resized).jpg
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Little things like this can make strange issues in this case it is just a flasher but it may have been not acting correctly or causing other things to work incorrectly.
Tearing down both the cabinet and playfield a little at a time.
This is the point wear I want to shave weight of the playfield assembly so I will start pulling the larger heavier solenoid assemblies.
Then I will go through them and then pull more. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
The plastic trough is broken in many spats but the owner has supplied a replacement.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgWashed. No way around that on this one.
I will blow them dry and replace all the bulbs with warm LEDs.
Owner does not want color matched and actually prefers to maintain the original look of incandescent so I think we can do that by simply sticking with the warm bulb in all locations.
Will likely use clear domes in the feature lamps and frosted inbthe GI.
Lamp boards have been dried.
A common problem on some lamp boards that use this style socket is that the leg breaks.
There are only two legs so a little too much wrenching on the bulb can easily do thatv5FF22786-4819-4645-9C7A-604BBF4278EC (resized).jpeg
I don’t see this style socket often enough to justify keeping a stock of it but I can easily repair it.
Removed by desoldering 38A67287-C00B-4A66-AD5A-0A9F62942DEA (resized).jpeg
The holes are very small so I will use a diode leg to replace the broken tab. It solders easy and is solid but fits the hole. A8F40A87-69F1-48A0-B7B0-78AF9B5D76B7 (resized).jpeg
Trimmed up and reinstalled. EAD52B6D-027F-420B-A340-8035B77A59E3 (resized).jpegBDDDE93F-5054-4B1D-A439-10D06C634191 (resized).jpeg
The new bulbs are then installed.
image (resized).jpgSomeone sent me a pm and asked for post size and locations for the game so here that is
DSC01539 (resized).JPGDSC01542 (resized).JPGDSC01543 (resized).JPGDSC01546 (resized).JPGDSC01550 (resized).JPGDSC01551 (resized).JPGDSC01554 (resized).JPGDSC01556 (resized).JPGDSC01557 (resized).JPGDSC01561 (resized).JPGDSC01565 (resized).JPGDSC01567 (resized).JPGDSC01570 (resized).JPGDSC01571 (resized).JPGI see people ask about the best way to remove the playfield pivots.
image (resized).jpg
A straight screwdriver usual at least slightly tweaks them but works in a pinch
image (resized).jpg
I do not prefer that method the best tool I have found to do this is supplied with the game.
It is the hinge bracket.
image (resized).jpg
Once pulled nothing is easier to find or fits better.
Lockbar receiver.
51ED4C55-4477-48F7-9A24-6692CCF276DD (resized).jpeg
Powerbox
7AF05B91-E476-4B24-BC95-F9D0F8555BF2 (resized).jpeg
Transformer.
E1D2917E-2619-4AFF-83A2-205EE40D4E03 (resized).jpeg17B7378F-A941-493C-A060-F8A66A1F0A51 (resized).jpeg
Now I can go ahead and desolder then clean the flasher sockets.
image (resized).jpg
Replacement is possible as well but I think these will come back around with a little chemistry and effort.
Desoldered and placed in the ultrasonic cleaner. image (resized).jpg
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Then scrubbed with a toothbrush and lacquer thinner. image (resized).jpg
It is important to push the spring up in the socket while cleaning to get the gumminess out of it. image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
Nothing wrong with these.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from High_End_Pins:Transformer.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nice!
What is the best way to clean the transformer, especially the insulation parts on both sides?
Rinse, air gun, brush?
Now I can focus on the parts a bit more.
On this particular swap I am using a marking system because I have needed to cut away so much more than what would be typical. image (resized).jpg
I could easily reference most of it in the manual but that can be much more time consuming. This will give me a quick reference point to lay the harness back out since they are just bare wires mostly now. image (resized).jpg
When finished it will make for a nice template and reference point in the future or it can be sanded clean.
Pulled the weird switch in the left inlaneimage (resized).jpg
As luck would have it this is the only switch that uses a different switch bracket all other switches use this bend. image (resized).jpg
That won’t work here
image (resized).jpg
Had to hunt around over at the warehouse to find the correct one.
image (resized).jpg
It isn’t that I couldn’t order one but it is all I need so I like to keep things moving.
Tearing down the backboard
1D93C76B-41F6-4892-96B2-05CF7690A95F (resized).jpeg
Looks good at a glance.
B01FA343-AFF1-46C8-BCE7-B3D1528B9DA6 (resized).jpeg0DCD7405-C5E1-49F0-A2DD-F4C5E66B2DBF (resized).jpeg
Once you remove the plastics you can see where it is peeling or letting go from the heat of the lamps and pressure of the parts. EB8522B8-727E-4CD6-BF17-9588E11B3183 (resized).jpeg4F48C73F-260A-4DE0-AF7A-D0241FE32130 (resized).jpeg
On the backside there are broken wires and bent legs. These tend to catch on the harness loom sleeves in the back when raising and lowering so I will rework the layout when rebuilding. 46702BC5-0BB2-4C78-B043-B24644BC6D81 (resized).jpeg0728BD07-A4F9-4C21-B1AE-1D3B9D7B3F66 (resized).jpegDA8CA7C8-5888-4CA9-8C0C-F67C3BF95019 (resized).jpeg
Torndown FF3452C7-7C06-44B8-A8FF-4CEF1A15DF10 (resized).jpeg
Sanded and painted 122E58DE-ED33-465A-9C58-C3EB05A078D5 (resized).jpeg
Totan uses a lot of coil assemblies
Most are very basic sling style,knocker ,trough flippers
That is divided up in its own bin.
image (resized).jpg
The more complex or game specific assemblies are divided into another bin
image (resized).jpg
I can easily enough just tear all the common ones down and clean the coils allowing them to dry overnight.
The more specific I will tackle one at a time.
I can remove the pigtails as well so O can better clean the coils.
I will be replacing the wiring and connectors. image (resized).jpg
Pigtails removed.
image (resized).jpg
I don’t want to just soak the coils
I could but it is hard to really dry them properly without losing the original wrappers and even though I am going to rewrap them I would rather stick the new wrapper to the old one for a better bond.
Using a level I have strategically place the coils in a way that will let the cleaner mostly gather at the bobbins and their housing.
image (resized).jpg
Cleaner is poured lightly in the tray to cover the noted sections not flood the wrappers.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Coils are cleaned and dry
Only one label was lost.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Clever. What's in your cleaner, Purple Power?
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