(Topic ID: 224373)


By High_End_Pins

1 year ago

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  • 254 posts
  • 37 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 months ago by High_End_Pins
  • Topic is favorited by 77 Pinsiders


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There are 254 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 6.
#51 1 year ago

Absolutely amazing. Thanks for taking the time to document. I love reading restoration threads.

#52 1 year ago

Wish my corners looked that good!! This is why you are the Man!!

#53 1 year ago


#54 1 year ago

Time to start gutting the base game.
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Starting with the things that are most in the way and easily accessible.

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#55 1 year ago

Translite panel is split up.
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Channels look to be fairly new and fit like replacements which are generally too tight. image (resized).jpg

The translite itself is clean but taped to the glass and also has a mysterious taped section in the center. image (resized).jpg
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The eggshell is dirty and has tape/tape residue in the channel areas. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
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Inside eggshell is not too bad image (resized).jpg

My first preference is to leave the eggshell intact and wash it thoroughly.
The reason for that is that more often than not the lamp sockets can break or housing crack during removal. Anytime you have heat,age and plastic the odds are against trouble free disassembly.
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Complete teardown and refinishing is something I save for extreme cases where the benefits outweigh the risk so Iwill clean it first and decide from there

#56 1 year ago

The tape is removed and the translite is off the glass. image (resized).jpg

The mysterious tape is being used because the translite is actually broken /cracked.
Never seen that before.

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#57 1 year ago

The tape and glue are removed and I will see if I can salvage this translite.
If not replacements are available. image (resized).jpg

I do a light check to see what touch ups might be needed. image (resized).jpg

Touch ups are done and I rebond it with carpet tape
I like that for this because it is paper thin,sticky,strong and translucent.
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It may show a slight grid pattern when lit but for now this is just a quick attempt to save the translite if possible but do something that will last.
I place and trim small a few sections of wax paper to the back of the carpet tape so the translite won’t stick to anything when flipped. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Translite is flipped.
Repair looks close to invisible image (resized).jpg

Then light checked. It isn’t perfect but it doesn’t look any different than any other lightly scratched translite.
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It is a nothing to lose repair and is good practice in the event I am dealing with something I cannot replace.
What I will do from here is just use it for the time being and consult with the owner to see if he wants a new one since this is a little borderline or judgment call

#58 1 year ago

I'd probably stay with this translite knowing I could always replace it someday. Machine would be more original.

#59 1 year ago
Quoted from mcbPalisade:

I'd probably stay with this translite knowing I could always replace it someday. Machine would be more original.

This is my thought as well not so much because of originality but because I have heard mixed reviews on the reproduction translites.
I wouldn’t hesitate to use one if absolutely needed just not sure this quite justifies it.

#60 1 year ago

Panel cleaned rebuilt and relamped. image (resized).jpg

Now checked. image (resized).jpg

If you are looking for it you could find it but it really looks good overall. image (resized).jpg

#61 1 year ago

Speaker panel torn down.
It will need to be replaced after I was able to fully evaluate it.
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Worn script41BBCF6D-E59D-4734-9CB8-C0A3A978934F (resized).jpeg

Broken window keeper tabs D7A56B65-55A8-4375-91CD-D8E417E0E46B (resized).jpeg

Bent grill
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I will steal the larger speaker housing from the left side and use it on the new panel when it arrives and I rebuild.

#62 1 year ago

Boards are being removed. As I unplug everything I notice this at connector J107.
Plugged in upside down
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It is keyed and should actually go to J114
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Little things like this can make strange issues in this case it is just a flasher but it may have been not acting correctly or causing other things to work incorrectly.

#63 1 year ago

Other things are expected like the burn GI connectors

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#64 1 year ago

Tearing down both the cabinet and playfield a little at a time.
This is the point wear I want to shave weight of the playfield assembly so I will start pulling the larger heavier solenoid assemblies.
Then I will go through them and then pull more. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

The plastic trough is broken in many spats but the owner has supplied a replacement.

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#65 1 year ago

As I uncover the lower layers I start to see more things.
Many post do not have washers or nuts.
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Others are rigged or stripped.

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#66 1 year ago

Scoop is removed

Replacement on the way.

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#67 1 year ago

Removing the lamp boards. Pretty dirty.the only clean spots are where I touch them

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#68 1 year ago

Washed. No way around that on this one.
I will blow them dry and replace all the bulbs with warm LEDs.
Owner does not want color matched and actually prefers to maintain the original look of incandescent so I think we can do that by simply sticking with the warm bulb in all locations.
Will likely use clear domes in the feature lamps and frosted inbthe GI.

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#69 1 year ago

thank you for documenting this build. I have a TOTAN that needs a playfield. I plan on doing it some day. so it will be interesting to see what you run in to and things to watch out for. The ramps have to be placed just perfect

#70 1 year ago

Lamp boards have been dried.

A common problem on some lamp boards that use this style socket is that the leg breaks.
There are only two legs so a little too much wrenching on the bulb can easily do thatv5FF22786-4819-4645-9C7A-604BBF4278EC (resized).jpeg

I don’t see this style socket often enough to justify keeping a stock of it but I can easily repair it.
Removed by desoldering 38A67287-C00B-4A66-AD5A-0A9F62942DEA (resized).jpeg

The holes are very small so I will use a diode leg to replace the broken tab. It solders easy and is solid but fits the hole. A8F40A87-69F1-48A0-B7B0-78AF9B5D76B7 (resized).jpeg

Trimmed up and reinstalled. EAD52B6D-027F-420B-A340-8035B77A59E3 (resized).jpegBDDDE93F-5054-4B1D-A439-10D06C634191 (resized).jpeg

The new bulbs are then installed.

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#71 1 year ago

Most of the big parts are off the underside.
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Now I can start stripping the topside.

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#72 1 year ago

Just about ready to pull the playfield.
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As I tore it down several post were stuck and I realized it has likely been cleared and that was over Mylar and everything else.

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#73 1 year ago

Someone sent me a pm and asked for post size and locations for the game so here that is

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#74 1 year ago

A few more left.Accurate I believe or very close and tweak.TOTAN has a lot of them and this file is bout 12 or more years old.

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#75 1 year ago

Playfield is out of the cabinet.

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#76 1 year ago

I see people ask about the best way to remove the playfield pivots.
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A straight screwdriver usual at least slightly tweaks them but works in a pinch
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I do not prefer that method the best tool I have found to do this is supplied with the game.
It is the hinge bracket.
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Once pulled nothing is easier to find or fits better.

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#77 1 year ago

Old and new lower cabinet is set side by side so I can make all the pivot holes in the new cabinet accurately.

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#78 1 year ago

Amazing work - so fun to see

#79 1 year ago

Old Cabinet is measured image (resized).jpg

New cabinet marked and drilled.

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#80 1 year ago

Just about done with the old cabinet.
It is hard to understand the level of fade until you see them side by side.
I mean you know the old is faded but that really puts it in perspective.

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#81 1 year ago

I am going to work through the parts I pulled so far starting with the cabinet parts because we are about ready to begin reassembly.
First is the lockbar receiver.
The housing of this one is trashed because it is mangled.

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#82 1 year ago

Lockbar receiver.
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#83 1 year ago

Getting into the final stages of playfield teardown.
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The harnesses in this game are very dirty and it uses a lot of flashers so I will need to desolder all those flashers to best clean everything

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#84 1 year ago

Solenoid harness removed and thoroughly cleaned.

By removing the sockets for the flashers I was able to really clean the ends and then I can clipand strip them back for better and more reliable connections

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#85 1 year ago

Now I can go ahead and desolder then clean the flasher sockets.

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Replacement is possible as well but I think these will come back around with a little chemistry and effort.

Desoldered and placed in the ultrasonic cleaner. image (resized).jpg
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Then scrubbed with a toothbrush and lacquer thinner. image (resized).jpg

It is important to push the spring up in the socket while cleaning to get the gumminess out of it. image (resized).jpg
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Nothing wrong with these.

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#86 1 year ago

Lamp harness is removed.
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Any GI sockets that chain together are left out of the harness to make cleaning easier and better. Totan has many.

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#87 1 year ago

When I lay the harness out for cleaning it is only left with a few landmark sockets to deal with so I can really focus on the wires themselves

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#88 1 year ago

Lamp harness clean.

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#89 1 year ago

Now the switch harness. image (resized).jpg

With the exception of just a few more reliable style switches I will replace all of them so I am going to leave the brackets and old bodies on the playfield and just remove the wiring where needed.

#90 1 year ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

What is the best way to clean the transformer, especially the insulation parts on both sides?
Rinse, air gun, brush?

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#91 1 year ago

Switch harness removed.
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I will make mini harnesses for these.

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#92 1 year ago

Are the bracket markings yours, or are the existing?

#93 1 year ago

Switch harness will be easier to manage now but makes much more work on the back end.

That work is needed anyway though. image (resized).jpg

Switch harness cleaned.

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#94 1 year ago

Now I can focus on the parts a bit more.

On this particular swap I am using a marking system because I have needed to cut away so much more than what would be typical. image (resized).jpg

I could easily reference most of it in the manual but that can be much more time consuming. This will give me a quick reference point to lay the harness back out since they are just bare wires mostly now. image (resized).jpg

When finished it will make for a nice template and reference point in the future or it can be sanded clean.

#95 1 year ago

Pulled the weird switch in the left inlaneimage (resized).jpg

As luck would have it this is the only switch that uses a different switch bracket all other switches use this bend. image (resized).jpg

That won’t work here
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Had to hunt around over at the warehouse to find the correct one.
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It isn’t that I couldn’t order one but it is all I need so I like to keep things moving.

#96 1 year ago

Tearing down the backboard
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Looks good at a glance.
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Once you remove the plastics you can see where it is peeling or letting go from the heat of the lamps and pressure of the parts. EB8522B8-727E-4CD6-BF17-9588E11B3183 (resized).jpeg4F48C73F-260A-4DE0-AF7A-D0241FE32130 (resized).jpeg
On the backside there are broken wires and bent legs. These tend to catch on the harness loom sleeves in the back when raising and lowering so I will rework the layout when rebuilding. 46702BC5-0BB2-4C78-B043-B24644BC6D81 (resized).jpeg0728BD07-A4F9-4C21-B1AE-1D3B9D7B3F66 (resized).jpegDA8CA7C8-5888-4CA9-8C0C-F67C3BF95019 (resized).jpeg

Torndown FF3452C7-7C06-44B8-A8FF-4CEF1A15DF10 (resized).jpeg

Sanded and painted 122E58DE-ED33-465A-9C58-C3EB05A078D5 (resized).jpeg

#97 1 year ago

Totan uses a lot of coil assemblies

Most are very basic sling style,knocker ,trough flippers
That is divided up in its own bin.
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The more complex or game specific assemblies are divided into another bin
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I can easily enough just tear all the common ones down and clean the coils allowing them to dry overnight.
The more specific I will tackle one at a time.

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#98 1 year ago

I can remove the pigtails as well so O can better clean the coils.
I will be replacing the wiring and connectors. image (resized).jpg

Pigtails removed.
image (resized).jpg

I don’t want to just soak the coils
I could but it is hard to really dry them properly without losing the original wrappers and even though I am going to rewrap them I would rather stick the new wrapper to the old one for a better bond.

Using a level I have strategically place the coils in a way that will let the cleaner mostly gather at the bobbins and their housing.
image (resized).jpg
Cleaner is poured lightly in the tray to cover the noted sections not flood the wrappers.

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#99 1 year ago

Coils are cleaned and dry
Only one label was lost.

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#100 1 year ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Coils are cleaned and dry
Only one label was lost.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Clever. What's in your cleaner, Purple Power?

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There are 254 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 6.

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