(Topic ID: 225528)

HEP This Week

By High_End_Pins

5 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 14,480 posts
  • 646 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 hours ago by High_End_Pins
  • Topic is favorited by 640 Pinsiders
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Topic poll

“EBD Trim legs will be black regardless ”

  • Stainless/Factory 35 votes
    31%
  • Blacked out 54 votes
    48%
  • Painted Gold matched to cabinet 24 votes
    21%

(113 votes)

This poll has been closed.

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Topic index (key posts)

207 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #142 Alien repair completed Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)

Post #621 COMPLETED: Grand Prix Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)

Post #645 Tip Time with Chris - Compressor used for cabinet painting Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)

Post #651 Tip Time with Chris - Guide coating (part 1) Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)

Post #726 COMPLETED: Indiana Jones:The Pinball Adventure Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)

Post #803 A brief history of HEP Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)

Post #826 COMPLETED: Tommy Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)

Post #1228 COMPLETED: Addams Family Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)

Post #1287 Rebuilding a backbox lampboard Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)

Post #1430 Head and Cabinet stripping and repair process Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)


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#332 5 years ago

Chris, a couple questions about the masking process:

When using the Frisket-like material, do you use just enough pressure with the blade to cut through the masking and not into the underlying surface? If you do cut into the surface a bit, does it get covered up/filled in by the new paint being laid down?

Also, is there any concern of pulling up paint when you pull off the masking?

Thanks in advance. Really enjoying this thread a lot!

Todd

#346 5 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

I generally aim to apply just enough pressure to cut the masking material.
The cuts can be tough. There are probably thousands of them over the course of this playfield repaint so not every one is as perfect as I would like so if it does get into the layer below it is understandable and covered by the paint and future clear.
This is why it is so important to clear first of using this method.
I don’t have any concerns about pulling up the paint I am putting down because I use auto paints and adhesion promoters but it would be a concern with other types of paint.

Thanks a lot for the explanation Chris!!!

Todd

1 month later
#933 5 years ago

Chris, a couple quick questions:

1) Do you add any wax or clear coat to metal parts after polishing to keep corrosion away? Or does the polish stay on there and act as a shield against corrosion?

2) At one time you were using round head screws with the metal leg protector brackets as they added more protection (spacing), and now I see you used flat head screws here. Any reason for this?

Thanks!

Todd

#935 5 years ago

Thank you for the explanation!

2 weeks later
#1328 5 years ago

What is the diameter on that tubing, Chris?

9 months later
#4860 4 years ago

Chris, can you share how you safely remove decals from ramps? Thanks!

Todd

#4862 4 years ago

I saw that, but it doesn't explain the removal process of the decal from the ramp.

#4882 4 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Nothing fancy I just very slowly and carefully peel them off.
If I use a certain amount of pressure and angle most of the glue will remain on the decal and leave less behind to clean off the ramps.

Awesome, thanks for that info, Chris!

#4883 4 years ago

Damn fine work on that Radical! cabinet, too. Thanks for taking the time to share your work with all of us!

Todd

#4949 4 years ago

HBD Chris! Looks like it was a good day. That food had me drooling. Welcome to the 47 club!

4 months later
#6116 4 years ago

Congratulations to Curtis and Chris on the new family member!

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