That Alien cabinet could have been half the weight and twice as strong.
When your trying to sand the clear to get rid of edges, there's a fine line (see what I did there) between sanding too much and taking paint off, or sanding too little and not getting rid of the edges. I guess it's just experience? Take that letter 'B' for instance, that's from sanding, I assume. I'm also assuming that you save the paint so you can touch that up. But doesn't touching up that red create as bump with the paint that will show up through the next layer of clear?
If you don't mind sharing, how do you clean the powder from the cabinet before you clear it again?
Where else can you get restoration tips, cooking tips, beer tips, exercising tips!! Happy Birthday Curtis!
I'm curious how you get the playfields in & out without scratching the sides? Kids? Hoist? Brute strength? I've been using these game blade protectors to protect the sides, works pretty good but curious how you do it.....
Do you find the bead blaster handy? Is that for nasty metal or do you use it for other things?
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:
18, Thumlers is the only way to go. I love mine.
Definitely pricey though. My dillon cv-2001 crapped out after many years so I tried the thumlers uv18 because I hoped they were quieter, they definitely are but not as big as the dillon. Not sure of they perform any better but time will tell, just got it. I'm splurging for the UV 45, hoping I can do bigger parts in it. Wish I had a bead blaster like Chris but haven't figured out what they work best on.
Remember to always paint the tops and bottoms of doors. Steel doors need it less that all wood doors but still a good idea. Keeps moisture from rotting out the bottom prematurely, and easier to dust the tops of the doors. On wood doors it helps with expansion and contraction due to temperature change.
NOW I finally understand how you get that crisp clean line at the bevel at the bottom of the cabinet! I'm fascinated by the sanding method you use for trimming decals, never even heard of this method. But I'm curious, you do the sides and then the front, no problem there, but when you sand the front, you don't have a problem with the sides wanting to peel off? I'll assume you do it at a certain angle so it's not an issue.
Quoted from flynnibus:
Chris, what's your preference for dealing with the rubber boot on prop rods? It's usually chewed up and worn away. The different liquid rubber products out there I don't know if they actually would get the same elastic feel and thickness as the factory pieces..
Spoke to Terry at Pinball Life and he had the yellow boots made for the lockdown receivers but he said he had no plans on making them for the prop rod, says you have to make too many and it wasn't a big seller. I tried dipping a few but the cans don't last once you open them so unless you do a bunch at a time it's not practical.
I don't want to talk for Chris but I think I've become familiar with his methodology from reading his threads. Chris doesn't have unlimited space for equipment so I assume he picks and chooses what equipment to invest in wisely. Plus he stated a few times that his skill set is not in computer graphics, cad, programing a cnc machine etc. I have a feeling he can make those ramp flaps pretty quickly and accurately out of stainless and doesn't use the blue steel anyway.
Not bad Grampa, not bad! Any tips on buffing a playfield without overheating the inserts? I know you prefer the wool pad over foam because I pay close attention to your posts. I also think you use Meguiars 105, but I'm looking for some pointers on your method if possible.
Excellent alignment! That's what makes a huge difference in the final product! Do you always put the front on first or just sometimes when you have to align the corners? Did you know in advance the right side would line up or just did the left side and assumed it would line up? One of my favorite tips I picked up from reading your posts is sanding the edges, makes a much much better job than I was ever able to achieve with a razor blade.
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