(Topic ID: 225528)

HEP This Week

By High_End_Pins

5 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 14,743 posts
  • 652 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 hours ago by LTG
  • Topic is favorited by 639 Pinsiders
  • Topic is sticky in its sub-forum

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Topic poll

“EBD Trim legs will be black regardless ”

  • Stainless/Factory 35 votes
    31%
  • Blacked out 54 votes
    48%
  • Painted Gold matched to cabinet 24 votes
    21%

(113 votes)

This poll has been closed.

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Topic index (key posts)

210 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #142 Alien repair completed Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)

Post #621 COMPLETED: Grand Prix Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)

Post #645 Tip Time with Chris - Compressor used for cabinet painting Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)

Post #651 Tip Time with Chris - Guide coating (part 1) Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)

Post #726 COMPLETED: Indiana Jones:The Pinball Adventure Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)

Post #803 A brief history of HEP Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)

Post #826 COMPLETED: Tommy Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)

Post #1228 COMPLETED: Addams Family Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)

Post #1287 Rebuilding a backbox lampboard Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)

Post #1430 Head and Cabinet stripping and repair process Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1064 5 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Next step for it will be the final sand and matte clear application. Probably going to go about eighty percent gloss level on this one so it will have a nice sheen but not overwhelming.
I will let it set one more day first so the clear can really settle in around the paint lines before I sand it flat.

I'm watching this step closely, having just completed my first matte clear application project with my Future Spa. I'm happy with my results (I went with about 65-75% gloss level) but it's this "settle in around the paint lines before I sand it flat" I'm curious about.

In the end, my work didn't end up flat, as some paint was a nightmare of thickness, and the edges don't bother me. However, I did give it a try, and would spray normal gloss clear over it, let it set for about three days, then sand it as flat as I could before there was too much cutting through to the color. I'd then color correct, and finally hit it with matte. It was surprising how the gloss clear seemed to be super thin over the higher areas, making it less of a simple process to get smooth (and that's three coats of clear). My son credits this to not enough sanding immediately after the initial application of the thick paint, he's probably right.

#1065 5 years ago

Dupe.

2 months later
#2270 5 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

using a countersink tool, carefully enlarge the hole on the top side of the playfield for each pop bumper nail, creating a recessed area that has an outer diameter the same size as the diameter of the nails (the depth of the hole will depend on the shape of your countersink bit.
this way, when you drawn the nails down into the playfield, the fins will not bite into the surrounding clearcoat on the playfield and chip or crack it

I like a dremel for this with a curved diamond coated bit on slow speed to enlarge the hole. Also, once I've done this, I inject superglue into the hole (Kruzman style) where the clear meets the wood to further reduce the chance of the whole thing cracking, or worse, you do something wrong and have to lift the nail later, you're in trouble.

2 weeks later
#2494 5 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

I remember this Voltan in particular as well.I just could not get the color exactly where I saw in my mind it should be so I kept working at it.
http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album587

I'm not embarrassed to say I've been through every single link on your archive at one time or another. This Voltan was completely mission critical for us to find the confidence to do Future Spa.

The color situation for these restorations must be challenging since sometimes you can't possibly know the precise color from the 70's. I'm almost positive that Voltan and Future Spa used the exact same colors on the cabinet, which included a DuPont pinkish red that is technically impossible to accurately recreate now that elements/pigments of the paint back then that are no longer produced.

My son and I went through your painting and re-painting of that red and our minds were blown. It was so much work for us just to do it once, to go back and manually stencil off the color and re-apply it, that's some serious dedication. To do it twice or three times? Dude. There is no one like you.

1 month later
#2812 5 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

...just addressing that single issue before it becomes a point of criticism.

Seriously man, does that really happen? Does anyone really nitpick on something like that to you?

1 month later
#3097 5 years ago

Can anyone explain the difference between High_End_Pins line filter:

hep_line_filter (resized).jpghep_line_filter (resized).jpg

...and mine, and if it matters:

jsa_line_filter (resized).jpegjsa_line_filter (resized).jpeg

#3100 5 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Not sure about all the ins and outs of these but here are the specs on the ones I use. These work in WPC games as well which is why I choose one in particular to stock. [quoted image]

Thanks. For my next restoration I'll pick yours because at least I know it's getting used a lot without issues. I picked up mine from Marco and I have no idea what the electronic specs actually mean, so fingers crossed it works as advertised.

Oh and damn nice Fathom. I just want to confirm: The hinges are your sweet-ass addition, they didn't come standard for these era machines, correct?

#3101 5 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Here is a picture of the originals
[quoted image]

Yeah, that's the same as my original.

3 weeks later
#3235 4 years ago

Have you seen many requests for a separate power supply for mods?

1 month later
#3857 4 years ago

Yeah, no one is missing that kind of fireworks right now if you live in wildfire-dry California.

4 months later
#5450 4 years ago

I have a special request. I've owned and partially restored/maintained my TOM for many years. I've taken apart the armature/trap door mechanical assembly a thousand times. I've never found an adequate solution to eliminating the eventual pop-out-straight-down-the-middle issue. New armatures, weaker coils, it's been one continuous, losing battle!

I'd love to see what you do in your restoration to this assembly, and what tricks you might have to avoiding this problem (shared with many TOM owners).

#5480 4 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

This issue is common on TOM along with a couple others.
The core of it is within the design of the game and the entire Trap door mech
It can’t be fully solved on each and every kick out because there is no way to reaim the entire assembly
The reason is that it is all assembled within one steel plate.
[quoted image]
That steel plate mounts to the playfield with Several screws. Of those three different non adjustable points tied to post and two t nuts. [quoted image]
[quoted image]
The only real chance I can see of redirecting the kickout would be slotting or enlarging the holes of that base in those areas.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Doing that may give some ability to tweak the direction of the kickout.
Another thought would be to install washers under those points to give a slight pitch and *maybe* slightly alter the way it ejects.
This are my observations of the assembly and potential problems with adjusting it.
There are some mechs,shots and features of many games that are honestly just found to be flawed by design and this may be one of them.
IJ mode start bounce outs,TZ divertor dumps, and many more come to mind. Some can be solved others improved but I will pay close attention to this one and see if I can possibly make any reliable improvements.

Fantastic advice. I'll look into doing precisely this. Thank you!

5 months later
#6804 3 years ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Chrome Fathom inside.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Oh My.

1 year later
#10176 2 years ago

This is still the best thread on the entire Internet.

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