Maricopa, AZ
Quoted from High_End_Pins:The heads side by side.
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Nicely done Chris!
(Topic ID: 225528)
Linked Games
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992-
Airborne
Capcom, 1996
-
Alien (Heighway Pinball)
Heighway Pinball, 2017
-
Black Knight
Williams, 1980
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Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993
-
Centaur
Bally, 1981
-
Centigrade 37
Gottlieb, 1977
-
Champion Pub
Bally, 1998
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Quoted from High_End_Pins:Trying to figure out what I want to do with the back of the head.
I don’t have a Data East warning text screen and so far I don’t do enough of them to justify having one made.
I do have black ink and could do a Williams System 11 screen or WPC screen on there. Obviously it would not be correct but it would look more complete.
Thoughts?
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If it were mine, I would probably want to leave it blank if it couldn't be accurate. Or maybe some sort of Tommy related custom uniqueness on the back.
1 week later
Quoted from mollyspub:Sorry I missed it but how do you finsh the edges?
He sands them very carefully and with expertise that only much experience brings.
Quoted from transprtr4u:You had mentioned how to regrain the ball guides but I think I missed the answer.
Most of us use some variation if a dremel or drill with a flapper wheel or preferred attachment.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Cleared to save the current spot it is in.
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Pin Porn...... Sexy time
Quoted from j_m_:the large harbor freight tumbler is actually really nice (and a lot quieter than that small cheap one that they sell
https://www.harborfreight.com/18-lb-vibratory-bowl-with-liquid-drain-hose-96923.html
I have a Thumlers tumbler and absolutely love it. I went through 3 of the $40 arsenal (blue) ones on Amazon (extensive review posted) which were garbage.
2 weeks later
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I had no idea how much 300 feet of corrugated tubing was.
Now I know it is A LOT !
Will need none for a long time.
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You literally bought a football field of split loom tubing hahaha
1 week later
Quoted from robotron911:I gave up natural trees years ago as artificials got so much better. I love a real tree but it is an enormous fire hazard.
What do you mean? They only hit about 5000 degrees in 5 seconds flat....... is that bad? Seriously though, I remember burning the old dead tree in about March for the first time about 8 years ago and it scared the crap out of me how fast it burned and how hot it got. I had to repaint that side of the house and it was like 10 feet away
We have vacillated back and forth over the years and have a fake tree up in the garage. The last few years we have gone natural to feel more in the holiday spirit. I do hate how the needles seem to jump off the tree though. The wife also hates putting together all the limbs on the fake tree. I know they make ones that just fold up and stay attached but I'm not interested in buying and storing another tree.
1 week later
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Not that I have seen.
The hole made is smaller than the square of the bolt so as it draws in it there is no risk of spinning.
The square hole you see in an original cabinet started out round like these the bolt is what created the square which is why it remains round in the inside.
Main thing is it needs to be smaller than the square. Larger would be a problem.
On top of this, don't overtighten the bolts or the art will wrinkle at the bolt hole. A lesson that I had to learn the hard way on my very first restoration.
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1 month later
Quoted from lb1:Here is one:
I'm surprised, it's usually the other way around. Once you get more comfortable you switch from wet to dry.
That's definitely what happened with me. I started wet but once I mastered dry, I never went back.
1 week later
I'd rather donate or toss things in the trash then garage sale it. I have no patience for the people that want to offer you 2 cents on the dollar for things and my Friday/Saturday morning is much more valuable to me than what I could make having a garage sale.
My wife and kid do it occasionally as they for some reason enjoy it but I can't stand being anywhere near it. If it's worth enough, I'll do CL, OU, Ebay, Pinside, etc. but that's about it.
1 month later
I assume it is by hand?
Ohh god, what a nightmare that would be. He has covered it previously in if not this thread, definitely in others. He has a Festool rig he uses and it involves many different grits depending on what you are trying to accomplish and from what starting point you are at.
Quoted from kcZ:I think that is for cabinet prep... Not this final block sanding step. I used to have a 2-3' sanding pad for doing car bodies, I'm guessing that he has something like that.
Gotcha. Personally I've never had to block a cab to get it to come out level and smooth using proper techniques but I could see that being a good way to be absolutly sure.
Quoted from NYP:Ahh thumblers tumblers! Nice and quiet! 10,18 or 45?
18, Thumlers is the only way to go. I love mine.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Ready to start stripping the IJ playfield. This one is really rough in the wiring. Everything was spliced inches from the source.
This is a prime example of a restoration that actually did more damage than upgrading.
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It amazes me that people go through all of that, including heat shrinking the splice and yet cant be bothered to use $6 stick soldering iron to swap things out correctly.
2 weeks later
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Pretty sure I am going to watch this. The picture alone is a pretty good indicator that I will be entertained.
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Haha, the wife and I watched it a while ago just because of the photo as well. Those van meetups are pretty interesting.
2 months later
Quoted from flynnibus:Chris, what's your preference for dealing with the rubber boot on prop rods? It's usually chewed up and worn away. The different liquid rubber products out there I don't know if they actually would get the same elastic feel and thickness as the factory pieces..
For my restores I use yellow plastidip and I get the factory look, feel, and thickness. I highly suggest it.
To address the keeping of plastidip, I pour it in a Mason jar for canning things and then add a plastic bag over the top before I seal. The chemicals separate for lengthy storage but you can mix them up again.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Aniraf:What are you planning on doing with that extra TZ mini playfield? My friend bought a TX with a crack right down the middle of his.
If you can't find one I think I have one off of my old TZ I restored. Not repro or NOS by any means but it's pretty clean if I remember correctly (and local).
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Quoted from High_End_Pins:The magnets need the cores removed and turned.
This can be a little tough since the threads tend to be locked up and the cores themselves soft it is easy to gouge them up during removal.
I clamp them in a vise.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Hey Chris,
I've got a vise that has been sitting on my garage floor waiting for me to design a wall mount but I like that swivel mount too. Can you point me to a link that i can check it out or maybe a model number that I can look up? Does it support a lot of torque on it? Could it also be used for a grinder/polisher?
I was think about designing something with a pivot rod in the center that could be turned over and locked in place with a vise on one side and a grinder/polisher on the flip side but I've just never gotten around to it.
1 week later
Is there a good online resource for higher grit quality sand paper from the 500-4000 range? Maybe in popular RO patterns and/or sheets.
3 weeks later
Quoted from hawknole:I searched but could not find, what is the non-corrosive citrus based cleaner you use? Thanks in advance.
Duragloss 462 Ultimate Orange Concentrated Cleaner and Degreaser - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J035OKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6UjzDbF8DP47Z
Quoted from flynnibus:Eh? The polished look means any ball trail is immediately seen. At least on grained finishes there is other markings to diffuse the sight of the ball trail.
The grained look is OEM style and isn't as gaudy. Not every surface should reflect spots and glare back at you.
On all my full restores I have fully polished every metal part as I just preferred the look. I will say that they lasted much longer without showing ball travel marks then the few that I didn't do a full restore so I just regrained some pieces. In my opinion it was because of the high polished nature of the finish just didn't allow any of the fine dust/debris to grab onto the guide and leave the mark vs the rough texture of the regraining finish which it grabs onto fairly quickly. In the end it's just a preference thing but it definitely doesn't take me that much longer to polish than regrain, probably 3-4 times the time invested.
2 weeks later
Quoted from TG:I saw that, but it doesn't explain the removal process of the decal from the ramp.
Freeze spray 
Your fitness tracker, what kind is that and how does it work? Do you have to tell it what you are doing or does it detect it automatically?
Quoted from PinMonk:Looks like just the built-in Apple watch fitness tracker.
https://www.cnet.com/how-to/apple-watch-fitness-features/
Gotcha, thanks.
1 month later
Quoted from heni1977:Brilliant!!
I agree, I love this. It was so annoying to pull media out of lock nuts, I just always replaced them lol.
Quoted from lb1:I had a jet black car once - my first and my last. It looked great for about two hours after being washed.
LoL same here. My saying is everyone owns a black car..... once.
2 weeks later
1 year later
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:I understand the part of being able to do it multiple time, like in his case. I have zero experience using small stencils, but, I have seen them being used on PF for small details, I am just confused what would make it annoying as you said? is it more difficult?
Stencils bleed if not the blade cut adhesive type. Try pulling up all of the little letter surrounds and inserts with a razor knife from all those individual letters. There's absolutely no easier way to do the warning text except for slapping an ugly sticker on there which isn't going to ever be done on a HEP restore.
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