Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
Airborne
Capcom, 1996
Alien (Heighway Pinball)
Heighway Pinball, 2017
Black Knight
Williams, 1980
Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993
Centaur
Bally, 1981
Centigrade 37
Gottlieb, 1977
Champion Pub
Bally, 1998You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider high_end_pins.
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Instead of starting individual threads I am just going to capture what I am up to week to week.
This week will be two things that are a little outside of my normal project ranges.
First is an Alien autopsy
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The second is a Joker Poker semi cabinet restore and playfield swap.
C158BDF5-E0F0-41ED-B2BC-DA738F336E76 (resized).jpeg
So first I will get you up to speed on the Alien.
It came in as a favor for both the owner and the seller.
It isn’t the type of thing I usually deal in and that is shipping damaged games.
Not because I can’t but because it distracts me from my other projects, I get caught in the middle and one side wants things done as cheap and easy as possible and the other thinks the sky should be the limit.
From what I am told this is an irreplaceable game so there are not too many alternatives so I agree to see what is can do.
The game took a hit on the right side
That separated the cabinet
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4DAA3E4A-0EC8-459A-A3EC-66844E13DDC5 (resized).jpeg
It also buckled the playfield glass frame might’ve hard to spot in the picture but is is twisted right around the Flipper button landmark 9C9CD5D3-667F-4F61-8F93-1E5BFE766326 (resized).jpeg
There is more but I want to focus on the repairs per section so first is the easiest straighten the hangers so it will sit down in the receiver.
Didn’t take too much persuading and that is accomplished after removing the apron 7A0F8894-F589-4C31-BA2F-D69D532CF501 (resized).jpeg
The shooter cover was removed and straightened
Then reattached with machine screws washers and with keeper nuts in place of the random screws previously used.
ABF7E58F-3047-442D-B255-4FE0EF32628A (resized).jpegC3EDEC7D-02D4-4903-BF56-7FAD997361A4 (resized).jpegNow for the frame.
My goal is to straighten it without cracking or damaging the finish if possible because it is textured and a very vivid shade that could be tough to match without a complete repaint.
Glass is removed and the frame is worked with a series of different hammers and methods to get it back to square. 328D64E1-DB65-44D6-BBCD-AD41B625DBB2 (resized).jpeg
56558BC0-E6AD-4D78-8279-6160528BD2BF (resized).jpeg
It was then reinstalled and verified to be in good order.
1258ACC0-C11B-4EA0-977B-16AFB90A013F (resized).jpegABC2CA08-EA6B-4AA9-8F48-3170C0FC07A3 (resized).jpegNow to rejoin the cabinet corners and resquare.
This game is strange with the inner and outer panels so I had to remove a good bit to get to the meat of the cabinet and heart of the problem. ADC7E29C-7CCD-442C-A729-FACD736D9500 (resized).jpeg
B425465E-A351-495E-826F-9CB8CC1B50A7 (resized).jpegE66255B2-AFCF-4AC4-AE5A-3CA66242EDEA (resized).jpegThe front needed to come off as well because both the side and front outer need cosmetic repairs. 336A1651-26BF-4622-8F5B-F8E7E9B2884D (resized).jpeg
Taking the coin door off is more complex than taking of the side of the cabinet it is a bundled type harness that ties into pretty much any switch between the door and board in the lower cabB8D14D9A-FDC7-4FC1-BF52-C9FD9B2D311E (resized).jpeg
The cabinet protectors also have to come off to access the screws and them must be clamped and glued as they were staples on. E6209885-0DF2-49FE-BCD7-B9403DEF89F3 (resized).jpeg
Front off
712D2B8F-7C92-4335-89BB-6DCF00712258 (resized).jpegThe dowel pin was keeping the front from squaring back up.
It is removed. 5EDFA482-4403-406F-9653-4A583A566565 (resized).jpeg
The core of the cabinet is rejoined with a more robust screw and plenty of glue. F79642B2-7E45-4C5F-B065-DD5CDC1722CC (resized).jpeg
CDE05D15-AD2C-45F9-B6C9-42DDF7DEB6F6 (resized).jpegThis is a really tough repair to do on a level that will make it look like it never happened.
You are talking about a high dollar game,disgruntled owner and trying to make filler and paint look like MDF and textured vinyl.
First the damage is filled it is minor but you cannot be made any larger. That is the challenge. Every cm you sand or get outside of the damage the more work you create because of the texturing. Even just sanding it will comprise it do it has to be minimal.Initial filler front and side. 7AE7D4B2-6C41-43CB-8045-D77D2974824C (resized).jpeg
DB5DC5CF-17B5-4F34-9B67-A6F787DAFA50 (resized).jpeg
Filler sanded.
376DD34B-7792-4445-923A-8A4566553AF1 (resized).jpeg5E04ADB6-D94A-46FE-904E-83370EA78D44 (resized).jpegNow for some ground level texture. This is a bit more involved than pictures or typing can state. There is a dialing in of distance,speed,direction all of that and more to get the look I need.
Not a point and shoot type of thing.
This will give some texture Not necessarily the final but a base to build off of. EB626736-C658-4F48-8990-B2E84E55C7F2 (resized).jpeg
Want to keep that minimal so it doesn’t ruin the texture already in place that is good. F8471391-0E1D-4D00-8C28-BC164A8A77A6 (resized).jpegD784F5B8-1EC2-42C0-B49C-EBF23B5857A6 (resized).jpeg
Sprayed
The area is then wicked with masking tape to enhance or better match the texture and lightly repainted 265843CA-1941-4588-B043-9B1F10EC0F1B (resized).jpegCDA77D0E-6342-4CF4-A145-D519D4D066C9 (resized).jpeg
After that it is strategically repainted entirely to get that proper final texture and consistency.
0EC80BD5-B8F7-4928-9CAB-8F69EA4A7425 (resized).jpeg8B9DAE25-9733-4940-A539-95D0DB59FDF8 (resized).jpegNow the. Panels are reinstalled.
Starting with the front.
I am going to go with black bolts like on the right instead of the bare steel like on the left by comparison just to clean up the look a bit. image (resized).jpg
The damage in the front is gone and I am happy with the outcome there. image (resized).jpg
The cabinet is square again. No strange gaps or pushed out edges. image (resized).jpg
The repair to the side panel though less important since it gets covered is also nice and unnoticeable
Now the playfield is addressed
It was removed earlier to get the lower cabinet straight
A few plugs and a helping hand and the playfield is out.
My step up box is a nice sturdy platform 7DACCF66-C52E-468A-8380-C36A2A585D58 (resized).jpeg
The splintered sections were sanded away and glue was spread inside the plus. 2C493AEB-7C2D-4740-882F-DF60EAB598A3 (resized).jpeg
Longer more ideal screws are placed through the rails to further reinforce 044F71CB-A85E-4CDD-9123-36A70F03C7AC (resized).jpeg
There is a very minor hairline crack in the clear right beside the rail that is maybe a cm or two long.
It would do more harm than good to address it but I will likely drop a touching of clear in it to seal it up at some point.
216D5F33-1C43-4F56-9A72-87B1B07FD25D (resized).jpegOk that pretty much gets the Alien current
Now Joker Poker.
Game is for a long time customer and friend.
It was taken in as just needing a playfield swap.
A little under my radar but certainly something I can do and willing to given our history.
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I set the game up after it has been here a couple months
First thing I do is open the backbox 2DAA87B8-E380-48E3-8B65-BE391115AA8E (resized).jpeg
Damn this thing looked decent at a glance but it is rotten inside. A7B0E6C6-7126-4B8D-BD8C-6009BF56B4BD (resized).jpeg
There are no boards in the head and the back of the head itself is trashed. Flimsy rotten E15015C2-538B-4B37-9A0F-4FBC8DBBD89E (resized).jpeg
I pull the lamp panelB1E51BE7-55BD-4708-8020-95FDD547D713 (resized).jpeg
FDF15802-CB24-4C58-A45C-67DAA1E1CA81 (resized).jpeg
Proceed to strip it. EA1E8068-D5A4-4777-95F1-812B88273913 (resized).jpegED2AB4A3-5ED1-46A2-98A6-9C7D941EEF59 (resized).jpeg
The panel is refinished. D25096AF-00CD-4D57-A25E-96633B9B743A (resized).jpeg
Now dry and new sockets are placed.
DF916171-A112-45BA-886C-ACE03A7077BC (resized).jpeg
I had to make the little round insert light shields. That was easy enough when I found the perfect sized cardboard tube cut to fit and refinished them. 68E370DD-5F2B-474A-A1E5-005B90F65D6D (resized).jpeg
The harness is then reattached.
5322D699-2029-4031-9C04-52F06F21089C (resized).jpegThe head needed a new rear panel but I did not want to get involved in a total cabinet rebuild and repaint because it just wasn’t what I signed on for or was expecting with this particular project.
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DSC01061 (resized).JPG
Also the cabinet looked decent for what it is already. Someone already repainted it not to a level I would take it but not worth building and painting a new cabinet over either.
The back is knocked out. It is maybe an 1/8 th inch thick rotten flimsy you can see it in the background with the many large holes.
1523FDB4-1C3F-421D-8A33-1DD83D146B13 (resized).jpeg
New oak framing is placed where the old was removed. Screwed and glued. 2E13CD56-C431-4748-9557-267BBA376BF2 (resized).jpeg
6B4D9E35-A131-465F-BF05-18D1B18E9B90 (resized).jpeg
A 3/8 cut of plywood is placed and it runs a good bit thicker than what was there.
I want something that will strengthen the head and give me a decent ability to anchor screws into.
The new panel is now mudded in and grain filled.
This is a bit of a challenge because I need to build up the original edges to bridge them to the level of the new thicker panel but I don’t want to get into the sides
A0DC5FD7-6219-4AF9-98F4-B45A8FC8438A (resized).jpegA30BA008-76FB-44C3-8B64-59E3660A665C (resized).jpegA964B694-39AC-40A3-A22E-7DCCE7918298 (resized).jpegAC09D916-F9FA-4F33-836D-1A53A9056769 (resized).jpegCDC712EE-B1AC-47A8-B73F-0840FE5EF9E8 (resized).jpegThe rear panel is then masked and painted with a similar oil based paint the previous painter used on the cabinet.
Not trying to be too perfect here I want it to look close to what is there without turning it into a total project 51664EC6-748B-4D5C-BCEB-19E96E8584B4 (resized).jpeg
Then unmasked. FCBA2DF4-7622-4E50-907B-62ABCFF7B3A9 (resized).jpegAFE9502C-F00F-427E-861C-E0088E37B4A4 (resized).jpegFC2E267F-3148-4851-A43F-A9C11BAB5E5C (resized).jpeg2AA9BCF9-2752-4D4B-A4EB-5EEDE6CC59FE (resized).jpeg
Head is then mounted on lower and looks ok for the project and the location of the repair which is the back and will be up against the wall. F2A40FBF-0445-474D-A926-DF820446770C (resized).jpeg
The sides show much better and it is not noticeable that the thicker panel has been installed. 3C2AABC4-5CCC-4C9E-BFDA-6B1ABAAE3187 (resized).jpeg196C261D-9746-4291-BA62-B1F4B8E9A8EB (resized).jpeg
Inside there is a decent panel to mount the supports and panel for the board s.
1AF811DD-A4E0-4629-ACAA-023F983155D0 (resized).jpegNow I can start doing what I actually planned on swapping the playfield.
New CPR gold playfield. It looks nice overall.
The clear is more than adequate for a game of this era. DC9157FC-EB87-4647-A100-687044DC77A1 (resized).jpeg
There is some clear settlement and insert expansion and contraction that I will remove. It is perfectly normal as the products cure for even a perfect playfield to show this after several months 4A41CC06-87D0-4B2B-83E9-6282BADB95C5 (resized).jpegDFF4DD2A-EF48-4690-B5AD-340A13C65EBC (resized).jpeg
E44A7402-CB5A-4045-884A-5FC31A452871 (resized).jpegThe playfield is being sanded.
What I am looking to do is flatten and degrain the final layer of clear now that it has all jelled together F45C1B8B-D51C-442B-B076-1CA83EF3F2D8 (resized).jpegEF52452A-2D88-4E6F-9426-1EFD0604535E (resized).jpeg01F2780F-D823-4C00-8C0F-371F9E78A8A8 (resized).jpeg
Playfield sanded flat.
Playfield is ready to polish.
C80A8961-AC58-4369-8C27-6BAB7074759E (resized).jpeg
Then polished. 19BA34C8-79D2-4090-B889-51F4CD7B0CB7 (resized).jpeg
Random pics to highlight updated surface condition.
720F8811-0782-4EBB-8763-0E2CC49B19A0 (resized).jpeg81E96322-6E5F-4CF6-8BAA-64C5A57D12C3 (resized).jpeg8C9C7444-2C19-4863-9237-33AB2CDADE39 (resized).jpeg93973F14-C5B3-4B31-B0A4-91B0A959D641 (resized).jpegC1F0B4E2-3422-4B4D-B5D9-1E93D0E622C2 (resized).jpegC7FA9F9D-7D55-4398-A867-5BF27B522199 (resized).jpegEF7623CB-B368-49F9-8F9C-D8BAFBE45D82 (resized).jpegCan now flip and start the underside.
Even on an abbreviated service I still find a good value in the time and expense of replacing all the lamp socket and eliminating bare wire runs. 9B7A0668-8265-4B0C-819A-02144F744BBF (resized).jpeg
In place of these lamp strips I will be going with individual sockets. I don’t like the strips because they are pretty much unserviceable. B680977A-8950-4A6D-9508-01A3C36A26D9 (resized).jpeg
541AC36F-D1C4-48BD-91C2-7B12511D16DB (resized).jpegReady to start getting the parts off the underside of the Joker Poker. 083B5264-94E4-41CF-8BE3-F2C5DA1DB6F5 (resized).jpeg
This is a game with vague documentation and my lack of familiarity with the title specifically means I have to be a bit more thorough during the teardown.
I make notes that make sense to me and tracings on the old playfield.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgThe large assemblies are rewired and placed on plugs so I can get them out of the way and tebuild those on the workbench.
I don’t have all wire combinations for Gottlieb and I probably never will since they often use three color combinations and my needs are sporadic.
I pick similar colors and exact where I can. A44C8933-8503-4B6F-86BC-BDB9EE820641 (resized).jpeg
403AAB50-3D36-4DF0-A1E2-57FB4F6CDBAC (resized).jpeg79046FBD-8B40-4785-AE39-8AC631A6B8C2 (resized).jpeg97BAF99C-A833-4193-899E-8B9224B1F67A (resized).jpegNext I need to start prepping the final parts for the topside of the Joker Poker so they will be ready when I need them tomorrow
The apron was previously redone but it didn’t look like it went to well so I removed the decals and will repaint it. 9677EFA6-CC85-4C5F-9902-DE20C8665EA8 (resized).jpeg
The top arch has some scratches and rust. DAA451E4-2BB4-4B3D-9C3D-5A5EBF945BB8 (resized).jpeg
The tag presents a small problem because I don’t want to remove it and it can’t be taped on directly without also ruining it. 3F8952DB-1343-4E1F-8D84-DE19A4B9FEEB (resized).jpeg
I turn the tape upside down over the decal and just hairline over tape that.
This won’t look perfect but it will allow me to paint the arch and save the decal. 0041018F-58EE-415A-A53A-6583951AD219 (resized).jpeg
Apron prepped then painted now dry. 04C41328-3F23-4F7C-B710-D2B1F5FDE60B (resized).jpeg
649E6896-EB55-413E-9E86-B48FAE84309E (resized).jpeg
Arch prepped. DA7C8B50-DDF5-448C-97C0-9FA869AFFE96 (resized).jpeg
Then painted and dry 35532EC0-8696-4056-89D3-906F3DC32DC9 (resized).jpeg
Then unmasked. Not perfect around the label as predicted but definitely something I can live with in compromise and will probably look perfectly fine once rebuilt and placed.
B4ED2B3A-A06F-4EEC-8A40-4B45201AE259 (resized).jpegE9541302-F95B-4F40-ACE0-62C27947456B (resized).jpegE140CC32-2382-4C79-8824-B1611633279D (resized).jpeg
Now I will catch the Alien up
I worked on that in between sets today because it is totally cluttering up the HEP fitness center. now I am having lunch 
The front is being built back up. Using black bolts in place of bare steel. E370DF05-BF01-4832-87CB-63FACF7C88F4 (resized).jpeg
The one leg shim I will call it was removed to make the repairs. They are pretty much glorified cardboard and staples on so removal is basically destruction. 3931DC3D-7E68-408B-ACED-5EF16D70227A (resized).jpeg
Looking for a better solution I find that one extra thick Mantis cabinet protector on top of the regular stern protector comes out to the same thickness of the cardboard like shims. 93344508-3841-4E85-84E3-9B3B4C9951DD (resized).jpeg
Bolt the combo in place.
It fits perfectly with the Stern under the Mantis. 48E6DA27-F0CA-4EDB-BC39-0944EBF7A677 (resized).jpeg
I needed to make four holes in the Stern bracket to match the Mantis DCE41014-1796-4F77-A278-7E09969DBB43 (resized).jpeg
Then I installed them.
I think this will also tie the corners together a little more CB4927A5-5D96-43CD-AFCB-80F3B0FEF3AA (resized).jpeg
Set up leg(not the correct one) installed to verify.
02B7F234-E920-4EA0-8366-28A520DAFF2A (resized).jpegOver at the warehouse packing TOTAN for departure and waiting on new arrivals.
image (resized).jpgTOTAN is packed up. They should be here in about 30 minutes to pick it up.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgThey are here for TOTAN
Next arrival is TAF.
image (resized).jpgSee you later TOTAN.
Safe travels.
8C25112E-205A-40C4-9524-EFD38EB21489 (resized).jpegIJ now in the way.
image (resized).jpgHad to remove the ramps from Alien.
That was really a nightmare.
They have built so much around them and there is no room to work.
All that in the name of dealing with some rusty flaps !
Ramps are off. 62B704D5-A89F-463E-80AE-1D50E5D491BA (resized).jpeg
Making new flaps. These will be out of standard ramp flap stock. 37EA9E7E-02CC-4DC1-B547-65CAB1905D56 (resized).jpeg
image (resized).jpgNew flap on ramp 1 with the nicer style rivets.
Has an STTNG flap look.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgRamp 2 done. A slightly modified repurposed TZ ramp flap fit well.
image (resized).jpgThe corner is glued and clamped.
I will cut and shape the wood pictured(paint paddles) to fill the bulk of the void since this is MDF being repaired.
Fiberglass would also work but I have better luck joining wood glue and wood to MDF overall.
E7BAE6E5-E41E-4F2C-B806-C4390D26C0E9 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpgQuoted from cavalier88z24:glue on the floor. lol
Are you sure that is glue?
There is NOTHING I won’t suffer through to get this Alien in order.
Glue on the floor!
Getting in the way of a workout
Taking WAY more effort than I was led to believe!
I don’t care I am on board!! 
Quoted from BorgDog:Definitely like the black acorn nuts. Do those just screw on the same posts as the speed nuts that normally are on these? I might steal that idea when I get around to refurbing my Joker Poker.
and, sorry to whomever, but not a fan of those instruction cards.
With a little extra effort the black acorns went right on.
Since they are plastic iteas easy enough.
No problem on the instruction cards I use whatever I have on hand usually because many change both that and the playfield glass as soon as the game arrives. Just looking for something decent to fill in the gaps while it is here.
Quoted from j_m_:chris, what's the purpose of this nail inside of the rubber ring arrangement behind the switch on the joker poker?
[quoted image]
I am not positive but there are several like that throughout the game.
I am going to guess a guard to keep the ball from getting in there
Quoted from j_m_:psd4me 's comment makes the most sense. the only way a ball could get in there would be in the rubber snapped as well (and then you'd have the issue of the ball being able to enter from that upper right area
Agreed.
There are a couple others scattered around the playfield that look to be for ball guidance but they sit just out in the open.
Alien head rear panel is ready to rework.
Glue has dried overnight. 19D74688-D6E3-4EEC-8779-A92FE3053A5B (resized).jpeg
The paddle is cut to shape 1CD7DC68-DB62-4DDB-A419-D5F1714964D0 (resized).jpeg
The void is filled. Keeping it minimal this is strictly cosmetic
BA60925A-6E5B-4533-A705-56B581428C9B (resized).jpeg
Filler is sanded. It is important that the edges are mostly wood because if I just used filler it would probably crack when the t molding is installed.
0C09D18E-7FFD-4556-8891-7752F4BCF25D (resized).jpeg
It is lightly primed with a black primerB0F452B8-5F6F-401A-9082-28BE97ADE249 (resized).jpeg
Then textured
F1238A36-3282-4F9A-840A-1D256FDCC54E (resized).jpeg
Then painted
B1998A20-29D6-4228-A668-972DF2CF30BE (resized).jpeg
Alien has pretty much run its course until I get the backglass so now I will start gearing up for next week.
I have two cabinets I need to prep and prime.
First is for the recently pulled IJ project. image (resized).jpg
The second is for the first of my three up coming Spirit projects.
image (resized).jpgThe new Spirit cabinets are an unknown.
They were built to spec but before I paint and stencil I need to check some basics.
Does the coin door frame fit?image (resized).jpg
Does the lockbar receiver fit?this is complex cut and routing on these for pinball cabinets. image (resized).jpg
What about the backglass?image (resized).jpg
Yes it does. It is Friday 5 o’clock Let’s have a toast!
7AC5C144-4A39-45EF-BB58-30D3671EF42A (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Zdoor:Gulden Draak is good stuff. Packs a punch
Yes indeed.
I am a less is more drinker.
I would rather drink two glasses of high quality beer than 4 regular ones.
Quoted from Thrillhouse:HEP would you mind sharing what type of polish you used on the Joker Poker playfield?
Meguires diamond cut.
Quoted from pinballplusMN:Great thread. Just curious if you have people on staff helping. Also wondering how you avoid burnout after all of these years?. Its pretty common especially with the pinball resurgence that people are getting overwhelmed that do work like you do which is understandable.
Congratualations on such fine work!
Thank you.
I do not have any help.
The main thing that keeps me from burning out is consistency and routine.
The system I have developed over the years keeps me busy but also allows for some daily freedom so it doesn’t feel like work or pressure even though it truly is.
Essentially I just built the work into my daily life and lifestyle so it feels like a natural part of the day not a chore.
This week of 9-24
I will start about where I left off last week.
Prepping and priming the new IJ and Spirit cabinets.
First will be doing the finish work to the heads.
Spirit
image (resized).jpg
That head was built with a thicker back panel so it now feels more substantial than the original. image (resized).jpg
There are some minor gaps and voids to fill prior to priming.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgIJ Head is prepped.
Required a little more work than the Spirit but nothing out of the ordinary. 1CD3EC66-64EE-4BEC-BDBA-17DD261A69F2 (resized).jpeg
33E3B58A-CB1A-474B-A37A-8E22593EE3C2 (resized).jpeg
532546B6-4494-4C19-BE47-C240A61BAFE9 (resized).jpeg
Now ready to prime.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from epthegeek:Going to do a new thread this week? or update the subject? Possibly update the subject to remove the date and just make it a more generic "HEP current projects in action" sort of thing?
I am open to suggestions but I think I am just going to update this thread and redate it weekly so people will know if it is current.
The problem with the generic version tied to projects in general is they can go dark a long time. My goal is just capture what I am doing during the week.
The reason I don’t want to start a new thread each week is because if people post in them it will bring those old ones back up.
Quoted from AUKraut:What orbital sander and vacuum/dust extractor are you using? I'm about ready to invest in a new one......
I have a huge variety of Sanders
I primarily use the Festool CT 36 ties to the ETS 150 for medium level finish work
The RO 150 for stripping.
The RS 2 is also nice on large flat surfaces
If you are really looking to do some heavy material removal then then the RAS 115 is great.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from AUKraut:Thanks for the info Chris. Festool makes some great stuff, and for the volume of work that you do it makes 100% sense to invest in that brand. It is pricey though for the hobbyist like myself who *may* restore/refurb a pin every 12/18 months.......
Definitely not worth it for the hobbyist.
Putting a little extra elbow grease and time behind a nice dewalt or equivalent sander is all that I would do if I were doing this on a small scale.
Spirit lower cabinet prep.
The neck sits on the lower leaving a bit of an exposed groove.
384F9148-97A4-4AA5-9397-90052C929BE2 (resized).jpeg
I am going to eliminate just that for a little cleaner look. A259B30D-BA76-4C37-BCE3-20C54E0DC798 (resized).jpeg
That was done on both sides. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
The other various knots and such were filled. The floor was masked. It is ready to prime.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgReady to start the afternoon shift.
Choices?
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All games in that line up need the existing playfields restored.
The IJ cabinet is in process so I will skip that for today.
What makes the most sense right now is getting the Grand Prix torn down
Reason being is that I need to rework both the cabinet and playfield as well as thoroughly documentation The teardown,post locations and things like that so it is the farthest away as it sets compared to the others
image (resized).jpgThe fact that it works overall and likely needs adjustment is good enough at this point. Even if it worked perfectly it wouldn’t once torndown so I can start disassembly.
On EMs with cloth wire and Jones plugs I don’t go crazy dissecting every little piece and part. I remove the large sub assemblies. First the reel panel in the head.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpgMylars removed. image (resized).jpg
The playfield is chemically cleaned which won’t do much on a heavily swirled playfield like this. image (resized).jpg
Then lightly scuffed up.
The thing about a playfield like this is every time you clean or scuff you create more work but you have to do it to get the surface ready to clear.
image (resized).jpgOne thing I want to deal with before even the first clear is anything that needs some work in lettering.
These won’t look perfect initially because there are different levels and shines to the paint but it will clean things up for the first clear.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgThe clear has dried overnight
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There will be numerous issues to work through moving forward with this playfield but they are no different than you would find with any other playfield of the era.
Insert gaps throughout 12B780B1-F36A-44B1-B1FE-6F5BD13D8343 (resized).jpeg8B70C6B4-2FBB-49D5-901E-95F575680AB0 (resized).jpeg
Ground in dirt over the entire surface and grain
AABEBE08-A35D-4945-82F3-907AF3CF96BA (resized).jpeg
Wear spots
1DB4FBB8-7C53-4CD1-9DD3-FD545BB74BB6 (resized).jpegIt would be great if I could just shave this down and start repainting right now but it is best wait a day for the initial clear to cure just a little more so we don’t have to worry about chemical reactions and lifting.
What I want to do anyway right now will work in tandem with the curing clear.
That will be solidifying all the post locations.
On most EMs they are all held in with wood screw types hardware and they get splintered,weakened,and moved around over the years.
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To tighten them up
I glue small dowels in each one.
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9932FFBF-0D1F-4D36-8BEA-5D093B9BF07D (resized).jpeg
B6751303-54F7-4BBD-A4C9-E854A18F56E2 (resized).jpegThe dowels are then clipped closer. A57B11B7-C151-412C-A336-D7DB29C2C9E5 (resized).jpeg
Then tapped flat with a ballpoint hammer to mushroom them down in the holes and make it easier to sand across them in the next phases of restoration.
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After that the excess glue is wiped off and the playfield can sit to the side for a day while everything dries and bonds.
8D6005D4-114D-498C-B831-B673784644BA (resized).jpegA65B974F-9AF1-4085-8CEB-08A865159216 (resized).jpegD13189D7-E817-4756-BE6C-86278DF5A565 (resized).jpegD8978E31-4E56-40FC-9AB0-EE9B9B6681C4 (resized).jpegFF53FB40-9A92-4F71-AAE7-2003300E4F38 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpgReady to paint the base color blue.
I need to match this color and speckled pattern.
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I mix up something close but hopefully a touch more vivid looking because the original is just a little drab. E09D94DC-C1E4-4125-828A-AD3795D37EE2 (resized).jpeg
The cabinet is then based in blue after s light coat of adhesion promoter.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgNow the yellow specks
I use a pressurized cup and play with the fan,needle and air pressure to get a consistent pattern
This is the gun. The hose going to the cup is what accelerates the fuild. image (resized).jpg
Here is the various test panels. None of this is going to look correct on the test pattern because there is a lot of trial and error. image (resized).jpg
This is what I need to match.
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Specks are sprayed.
Pretty good.
image (resized).jpgSpirit cabinet is cleared in full gloss for the first time.
It will be sanded and cleared again later in the process
This first clear is applied thicker and more grainy as a means to build up around the stenciled paint edges
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgWith some left over clear from the Spirit cabinet I will start building up a few low spots on the Grand Prix playfield.
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First I will drop some clear in the dowels I placed earlier to further bond them in.
This clear will wick into the dowels image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpgI love the smell of paint in the morning!
Time to put some work into the Grand Prix playfield.
Yesterday I took some left over clear and continued filling in the insert gaps as well as the dowel locations.
Now I can sand it all flat.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from GAP:Chris
You always do amazing work!!!!!
GAP
Thank you Mike!
Missed this yesterday. Much appreciated.
Playfield is sanded with only minimal break through which means that the inserts have flattened out a good bit from the first clear application and follow up clear touch up.
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The dowel locations are flat as well but not entirely invisible or unable to reference by design because I still need to know where the post go. image (resized).jpg
Now I will start cleaning the holes and prepping for the first round of repaints.
image (resized).jpgPlayfield is now cleaned and ready to start painting.
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I am going to go over the enormous files,programs and equipment needed to make this happen.
The custom paint mixing system. Whatever is in here is what I will mix and tint to match as well as possible. . image (resized).jpg
The high tech masking system image (resized).jpg
Morning fuel.
Coffee and water. I drink a lot of water. image (resized).jpg
Quoted from chad:Chris, what guidecoat?
It is basically light overspray on the primer surface to guide you through properly sanding the primer nice and flat.
Sand until gone.
The yellow is masked and then sprayed.
This is one of the harder task because Yellow generally does not cover well and there are many numbers to cut out.
Without the ability to cut and mask every digit it comes down to compromises between the aged paint and the new and how to best make those work together.
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The yellow is then unmasked. image (resized).jpg
It is at this point that I really need to clear once again.
I anticipate needing to dial in some areas done today a bit further especially in the yellow.
On the next pass I will do that and other colors not yet done like the green,light blue,and of course the white
Quoted from j_m_:looks good chris
2 questions: you're just using frisket and freehand cutting it with a scalpel or x-acto blade to mask the areas? and blocking out areas where there is text on the playfield?
Yes I use a stenciling material like frisked but it can withstand autopaint.
To cut it out I use just a regular razor blade.
I like that best.
Looks like the Alien backglass/plexi is the standard version not the limited version though so I am not sure if that is all that can be had(definitely better than a smashed one) or if there is a mistake but that was package 1 and the effort made is appreciated as well.
Quoted from djh00000:Chris, where were you able to obtain the backglass plexi for the Alien?
Wayne Gillard/Mr Pinball Australia saw to it we got one and a fellow Pinsider sent it on his behalf.
Very helpful guys both of them.
New Alien plexi is installed.
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This is done using longer screws and some new but yellowed and useless post rubbers as a way to isolate and give s little suspension in hopes of not breaking during transit.
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Quoted from radium:Really like the step-by-step posts!
Do you spray white under your yellow coat? I can never get good coverage.
I know Yellow is pretty much the worst color to deal with
If I were painting one large single color surface yellow I would definitely put a light base of white or very light gray down first.
When dealing with a stencil or playfield though I just work through the lack of solid coverage by applying multiple thin coats even though it is maddening.
The reason for that is that spraying a different color first can create a halo once unmasked it could be sanded into during surface perfecting so it is best to have that pure correct yellow from the ground floor up in those cases.
Rails are off and I am ready to start getting the cabinet caught up with the playfield. image (resized).jpg
Before I strip and repair it I will note the colors where I can in areas not previously exposed
That is going to just be white and blue.
All red has been aged
Not all that important just needs to look nice and be within the correct shades.
image (resized).jpgWhile I am sanding and working on the Grand Prix Cabinet I will also start prepping the IJ cabinet for final paint as well.
image (resized).jpgFirst pass
Will require one more before switching to a normal finish filler. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Sanding the IJ cabinet as I wait for the filler to cure for maximum efficiency.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from chuckwurt:So when you repainted the yellow I guess you just mask around the number area and do no paint around each individual number? That makes sense as I thought you went around each specific digit and painted. That would take FOREVER and almost be impossible to have it look right.
Nice work. [quoted image]
Thank you
Yes that is how it was done on this playfield.
Trying to cut something like those commas out for instance would just gouge the playfield up too much and if the masking material even stayed put from the cut out it would probably blow right off during the spraying.
On some colors the method can look almost perfect on others like yellow or white that is impossible so I am looking for improvement and acceptable in those cases.
On this playfield specifically it will never look truly perfect in the lettering or numbers because there is an age and swirling in the background of them.
These type of restorations are kind of like plastic surgery.
You have a 40 year old patient that wants to look like they are 20 again but there are limitations.
The paddles are shaved down. image (resized).jpg
A tape line is run to protect the floor. image (resized).jpg
The fiberglass filler is intermixed with the standard filler to make it a little easier to work with for this repair because there is limited room to sand within the recess area.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgWorking on the inside now.
Some people ask why I paint the side walls in full instead of just partially down
More often than not there are things that need filler or are ugly.
This cabinet is a good example
Stains
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Voids in the wood. This one is about 2 feet long. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Sanding filling and neatly painting will be an upgrade.
Cabinet is finally ready to prime. image (resized).jpg
There is no need for me to mask the topside of the floor because I need to paint the cash box area and the rest is covered completely by the mech tray image (resized).jpg
Head is in good order. image (resized).jpg
I will metal etch and prime the rear panel for the head and cabinet metal plate because I am going to refinish those as well.
image (resized).jpgWe made it to another Friday.
Today I am ambitious and focused on Grand Prix.
I hope to get the cabinet sanded and painted as well as the playfield.
We will see how close I get to accomplishing that
First step is getting the messy things done first so that is sanding starting with the cabinet and the cabinet parts.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from pinheadpierre:Your sanding always seems to go incredibly fast and turn out perfectly. I realize that is hard won skill coupled with super good tools. From a practical detail perspective, what grits do you typically step through on the initial stripping? After that, what grit(s) do you typically use for perfecting the primer?
Stripping usually 80 grit
Filler work 80/180
Ready to prime 180
Sanding primer 320
Sanding clear to clear again 600
Now I can sand the playfield
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I need to do the white to clean it up and build it up to the level of the previous repaints image (resized).jpg
I will face those same lettering challenges we saw in the yellow and will do my best to interpret and make lines that flow around the things I cannot individually mask. image (resized).jpg
I will also do the green and have that challenge as well as the teal.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from FatPanda:At what point do you decide to replace a cabinet vs repair it? It seems like you put a lot of work in repairing this cabinet. Would it not have been more time/cost effective to replace it instead?
More often than not I replace cabinets but some cabinets like this are one off restorations for me so *if* I feel like I can salvage it I will to keep things moving.
In order to have this cabinet built I would need to hand it off to the builder and wait at least a month or so then when I get it back I would need a to really scrutinize so many details that it just doesn’t make sense on this project.
More common restores I do like Centaurs,Fathoms,IJs,TAFs and many more I have samples parked at the builder so it is just a matter of ordering.
Restorations like the Spirit where I am doing 3 it makes more sense to provide a sample and wait for as well.
Working on a match for the teallike color.
It is a process. image (resized).jpg
Started here. image (resized).jpg
Settled here after some tinting image (resized).jpg
It isn’t just about the color it is about the drabness of the aging that has to get factored in so the colors will pop but not clash too hard with the background of the letters and numbers.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from Mitch:How come you dont paint over the numbers then use waterslide decals to put them back on after?
Two reasons for me that are most influential are
I can’t turn every thing I touch into a total ordeal or else I wouldn’t get anything out the door. These games have owners that would like to get them back.
That would be a lot of decals to bury in clear coat which would look nice but cause potential problems with everything from gameplay to longer term cracking.
Now the white.
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I am going to take two different approaches to that.
I am goin to make an aged newspaper like shade for the areas with lettering because putting bright white around those would look really obvious.
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Newspaper shade sprayed in the lettered areas only.
527397B8-C815-44C3-9AA8-4E620CBE59B9 (resized).jpeg9E0C5657-A931-42B6-8CA0-07D777DB5AB6 (resized).jpegBright white in the art and GI type areas.
This step will visually add an extra color to the playfield but I think it will look cleaner overall and is a solution to a problem.
6E04F3BD-5CF3-4CBE-ADB1-521C1820778E (resized).jpeg78B9D32D-63FE-42AA-9FD4-4FAAD39AF56A (resized).jpegD78366E2-01FB-42B0-AA7D-8ED7CA6FFE78 (resized).jpegQuoted from chuckwurt:Ahhh. No saucer kickout wear!! Lovely.
It did have a little from the eject but the saucer itself is nice and within shape.
D3050E41-4FEC-452E-8C49-D2913F351BCF (resized).pngLast two things before I clear it again will be the wood and detail black work.
The shooter Lane sanded nicely and looks great so I don’t want to compromise that.
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The ground in dirt and discoloration in the Flipper area is a concern.
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Also there is a trail around the upper loop area. image (resized).jpg
What I will do with those issues is not quite known to me right this second but I am going to mask it entirely and take a conservative approach.
Wood tones masked and very lightly frosted.
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This is an incredibly transparent strategic application.
If you look closely you can see it does not truly cover the discolored areas only disguises and blends them in
That is how it can be done without ruining the natural grain or just painting it solid.
8337FE56-99F9-41FC-A17A-93C5E373C07B (resized).jpegCC0E0452-6E9C-4684-AC3D-6B855FB4C012 (resized).jpegECB58182-7780-4F82-BC85-33C4EBB95BAC (resized).jpegQuoted from WolfManCat:Between your diet, workout regiment and quality pinball restorations, you sir are a pinball rock star.
Now what are we drinking this evening?
Well thanks!
Today’s Choicesimage (resized).jpg
I will start here
image (resized).jpgGrand Prix wood tones unmasked.
A little black work to do and I can clear it.
1BE2F04D-224F-4C87-928D-51758C69BB32 (resized).jpeg1D8AF49C-6E6A-412C-8401-E23D053F12D7 (resized).jpeg2A050806-E0C2-4D2E-BA19-4AE0175E7097 (resized).jpeg2FEADD4C-5832-4C34-85EB-E5E1D1BE8645 (resized).jpeg5C27F1A3-E246-4D4B-A349-9C94F09CD166 (resized).jpeg7A286201-720E-4FC3-9CD1-A5B56BC0A6DF (resized).jpeg962125AC-66F0-43B9-A94C-C579BC69DBA9 (resized).jpegEED07E62-A5C7-405E-8D6B-0BD7E10DCB15 (resized).jpegCabinet and parts cleared.
On white cabinets I usually clear the white first then sand and stencil because it takes very little handling to mark plain white base coat.
3604BD5D-1AD4-4512-9A29-9B5EE5679CDD (resized).jpeg5205E74E-27B5-48A0-A6FD-E1A4D54E3C9A (resized).jpeg5C69BF77-57B7-4B1A-AAA2-868A176E41F8 (resized).jpegAE2A7928-A7E5-44A0-9A82-F532FA3AE932 (resized).jpegBB06E645-DA49-4CEE-AF66-93769425C9E4 (resized).jpegEB0A21C6-239F-4161-8644-A77B97683FD1 (resized).jpegPlayfield cleared. 30BACC69-8652-4889-816B-1D0B1CB52338 (resized).jpeg
034BF7A2-3DA3-451D-B827-B60E6275DBC1 (resized).jpeg
B027A308-8C1E-48B0-93F2-385036A395E3 (resized).jpeg
04A5D037-8329-41CB-819F-E23FEA77A2BC (resized).jpegA17845C0-8DD8-4F23-827C-A13482839A68 (resized).jpeg3EACE03D-4541-4E3A-BFB6-2BCF4DE81671 (resized).jpeg
727E07FB-0E2D-48AF-9CA2-5E1FA0987C6A (resized).jpegC3231164-9A49-489F-A1AC-212DB28B0F61 (resized).jpegCDD84719-255C-4664-8EA0-6FDFCBBBD437 (resized).jpegCEE9B352-08C0-4AFA-8800-FE832823104F (resized).jpegCFB8AE8F-DD6C-4D94-9352-FC8CA9315C3E (resized).jpegEE002B86-42DD-4747-A514-E0E2ECBB6423 (resized).jpeg
479B5FDF-7279-4C9A-92BE-AACC00862BBD (resized).jpegPlayfield and cabinet are dry now so I can get a better sense of how it is all coming together.
The brighter white accents will definitely help tie it in with the apron and cabinet.
By doing this quick mock up I can dial in the colors I will use for The stenciling.
My goal is to make it all match up as well as possible.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgThe blue on the apron is a bit brighter than the blue on the playfield. image (resized).jpg
The blue on the arch is a bit darker than the blue on the playfield. image (resized).jpg
The arch needs to be painted so that will be done with the stencil color
The apron will need some rework as well
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I will use the same paints when reworking those items to further pull the whole package together.
One final thing to figure out is the playfield rails.
They are the generic bare wood variety used at the time
I am not apposed to leaving them that way but there are two concerns now.
The first is that they clash more with the cleaned and frosted wood tones of the playfield because we are bringing the aged wood look back that had to be eliminated because of ground in dirt
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The second is they have ground in dirt also.
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Cosmetically I think either white blue would look best. I think of playfield rails as almost like a cabinet part since their profile is easily seen when looking at the cabinet overall.
With the arch in place I think I can rule out blue possibly because that might just be too much blue.
I think white might be the way to go here. I am not worried about authenticity if improvements can be made unless the owner is dead set on it.
image (resized).jpgI received the replacement side rails
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These are said to fit 1961-1987 and I think that is true statement because they do technically fit but they utilize the newer flipper button
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Not a huge deal I need the rails no question about it but it means I need to make a modification to the cabinet.
The original rail was stamped and curled in tightly around what would be considered just a center section of a newer style button. I don’t have the old rail on hand but you can see that this would leave an exposed and sharp edge around the original style. 445F6D01-15BD-4B3B-9611-5093165A3A72 (resized).jpeg
The hole as is in the cabinet will accommodate the newer button with modifications
06E4005E-245E-4F86-8EBB-C4564A774205 (resized).jpeg666E1D2B-8C35-469D-BDE8-136810FF410A (resized).jpegModifications are made with a forsterner bit and hole file
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The rail is now useable and button sits and protrudes properly on both sides.
The one trade off is we have the outer ring on the button not just the center but I can accept that trade in place of bent up siderails
5F8A5A4B-B4CF-4179-81AA-1666DAD3B743 (resized).jpegA0FA3787-0251-472B-BAAC-586EC89D5C8E (resized).jpegWith a little cure time needed for the Grand Prix cabinet and Mirco pushing the Spirit playfields back I move on to the IJ cabinet
Cabinet is sanded and ready to paint.
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Cabinet based in black 7452878C-BAA7-40FC-BFCA-B9CD8096432F (resized).jpeg03B5DB28-68E3-457E-881A-F532518013A8 (resized).jpeg
Then cleared
189B97BA-7A51-4982-ABE6-D183F7AF0AAA (resized).jpegE05D6592-1BE3-4B1E-81D0-1748040717BE (resized).jpegQuoted from Mitch:Wow really excited to see the phantom. Those playfeilds are normally terrible.
Yes and the cabinets.
I have an NOS playfield for it.
I did one years ago without one and it was painful. Swore I would never do another but I feel a little better having the playfield covered.
Quoted from TG:Chris, a couple questions about the masking process:
When using the Frisket-like material, do you use just enough pressure with the blade to cut through the masking and not into the underlying surface? If you do cut into the surface a bit, does it get covered up/filled in by the new paint being laid down?
Also, is there any concern of pulling up paint when you pull off the masking?
Thanks in advance. Really enjoying this thread a lot!
Todd
I generally aim to apply just enough pressure to cut the masking material.
The cuts can be tough. There are probably thousands of them over the course of this playfield repaint so not every one is as perfect as I would like so if it does get into the layer below it is understandable and covered by the paint and future clear.
This is why it is so important to clear first of using this method.
I don’t have any concerns about pulling up the paint I am putting down because I use auto paints and adhesion promoters but it would be a concern with other types of paint.
IJ cabinet is prepped and being decaled.
0E4B91B2-6279-48BD-A7A5-86CA78AF9DA8 (resized).jpegC8CEE34F-8226-4BD1-BA53-076386D1F587 (resized).jpegApron and rails painted white.
The white for the rails is the white used on the cabinet and it is just sprayed in a way that will dust them not bury them as a compromise between the original and the blending of them into the color scheme. image (resized).jpg
The apron and shooter cover are a brighter white that is the same shade used on the playfield repaints
This will tie things together.
image (resized).jpgWoke up to a flat tire on the oldest sons truck k. 41A443F9-F562-4B8F-BE42-31F3D1378FA4 (resized).jpeg
Changed that.
Then put the side decals on IJ.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgClear has dried on the Grand Prix Cabinet.
Gloss level looks great and there are no errors or concerns so I am going to leave it at that on the cabinet.
I could sand and clear another time or two and completely eliminate any sight or feeling of the stencil edges but it is going to be overkill on this game and not worth the potential problems I could cause myself doing that for a slight improvement in feel mostly.
As far as looks go it is all set.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgBefore I move the Grand Prix cabinet and parts out of the paint shop I mock it up to make sure it is going to work as I imagine it.
By using the same blues whites and reds it gives a really consistent look.
Everything looks good so I can move it into a safer environment.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgAfternoon workout complete
HIIT today.
Short but effective when time is low.
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Afternoon lunch and rest are out of the way and I get back to projects.
IJ edges are sanded.
The alignment is as good as it gets
The goal on these is to line up the blue and red lines not covered by the legs.
Ideally you would like to line up every single bit of art but that is not possible on these.
The alignment is great here
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But not here
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The factory is similar though
image (resized).jpgQuoted from yancy:Tommy, awesome! Never got around to restoring or even thoroughly shopping mine before I sold it, so I'm looking forward to this.
Tommy is now in the Pinball dojo.
image (resized).jpgAfter checking the Grand Prix cabinet in the sunlight I decided that it was still just a little too glossy for my liking. Also I just can’t ever talk myself into accepting those hard stencil lines no matter how hard I try.
I sand it down and prep to clear in a slightly lower gloss this also dulls the stencil edges so I can sleep good tonight.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgRecleared with a slightly duller ratio.
The biggest advantages will be the elimination of stencil edges and a little more appropriate gloss level for the era.
I do limited amounts of EMs so I am always tweaking things when it is something I am less versed in.
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Next up today will be prepping The Tommy playfield.
I have an NOS but it is not fully drilled or dimpled.
There are also Mylar sections to remove.
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Matthews, NC
Oldebroek