(Topic ID: 225528)

HEP This Week 11-11-19

By High_End_Pins

1 year ago

Topic Stats

  • 5,504 posts
  • 348 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 57 minutes ago by High_End_Pins
  • Topic is favorited by 350 Pinsiders


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Topic poll

“EBD Trim legs will be black regardless ”

  • Stainless/Factory 35 votes
  • Blacked out 54 votes
  • Painted Gold matched to cabinet 24 votes

(113 votes)

This poll has been closed.

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Topic index (key posts)

51 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #142 Alien repair completed Posted by High_End_Pins (1 year ago)

Post #621 Grand Prix completed Posted by High_End_Pins (1 year ago)

Post #651 Tip Time with Chris - Guide coating (part 1) Posted by High_End_Pins (1 year ago)

Post #726 Indiana Jones:The Pinball Adventure completed Posted by High_End_Pins (1 year ago)

Post #803 A brief history of HEP Posted by High_End_Pins (1 year ago)

Post #826 Tommy completed Posted by High_End_Pins (1 year ago)

Post #1228 Addams Family completed Posted by High_End_Pins (12 months ago)

Post #1287 Rebuilding a backbox lampboard Posted by High_End_Pins (12 months ago)

Post #1430 Head and Cabinet stripping and repair process Posted by High_End_Pins (11 months ago)

Post #1485 Special Eight Ball Deluxe completed Posted by High_End_Pins (11 months ago)

Post #1519 Comparing original to CPR Addams Family repro playfield Posted by High_End_Pins (11 months ago)

Post #1823 Addams Family (w/purple topper) completed Posted by High_End_Pins (10 months ago)

Post #2073 Comparison between prototype and production Whirlwind Posted by High_End_Pins (10 months ago)

Post #2120 Eight Ball Deluxe completed Posted by High_End_Pins (9 months ago)

Post #2183 Tip Time with Chris - Sanding and polishing playfield process Posted by High_End_Pins (9 months ago)

Post #2212 Tip Time with Chris - T-Nut installation Posted by High_End_Pins (9 months ago)

Post #2414 Dr. Who completed Posted by High_End_Pins (9 months ago)

Post #2802 Simpsons Pinball Party completed Posted by High_End_Pins (8 months ago)

Post #2888 Special Whirlwind completed Posted by High_End_Pins (8 months ago)

Post #3007 Indiana Jones:The Pinball Adventure (gold trim) completed Posted by High_End_Pins (7 months ago)

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#983 1 year ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

TAF parts are out of the tumbler after running a few days.
[quoted image]
This is what was worth or needed to be saved and these are the results.
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

For that single, long tumbler pass.. what's your preference for media? Walnut + additive? I've been a bit disappointed at times with my tumbler passes.. which I've followed up with the buffer wheel... but would love to skip that extra step as much as possible. I've heard corn media works better for polish, while walnut has more 'cut' or more coarse.

Those pieces look fantastic for just a tumbler pass..

#1066 1 year ago
Quoted from brenna98:

Where did you get the transparent pop bumper bodies? I know www.pinball.center/en has them, but it doesn't look like they ship to the USA.
Edit: Think I found it: http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/game-specific-products-star-trek-the-next-generation-pop-bumper-body-p-42.html?utm_source=pinside&utm_medium=link&utm_campaign=BumpBody&utm_content=p42

Yes, Zitt imports them from pinball center

#1103 1 year ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Home Depot I think.
You can probably order them in bulk somewhere which is my next plan as I started using them more and more on my black cabinet games.
First time using only black screws in them as well this time around.

I noticed the screws and was like.. just another HEP touch

1 week later
#1370 11 months ago

So what's the end state here Chris, you are adding the light boards to a non-LE game to simplify the PF? I thought you were taking an LE and moving it into a stock cabinet vs the LE-beast... and removing the light boards.


#1409 11 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

I sand it off.
There have been times in the past that I used chemical strippers but you still end up sanding the glue off so it is a messy extra step.
I will go over it when I strip the head in a bit.

Chris, do you find it's your choice of primer that enables you to get the fine finish without more filler work on the cabinet? I see references to 'high fill' primer, etc but don't see it as often in the non-auto home finishes, etc.

I have a perfect finished surface.. but I really didn't like the amount of work it took to get there. Wondering if the primer type is the deltas

#1412 11 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Not really if helps some but primer can only do so much so the perfecting starts at the ground floor.
You have to strip it with proper technique so you don’t make more work for yourself.

Yeah, I used heat and the decal came clean, but after sanding, the top surface of the ply would open and become porous.. rather than just smoothing like a solid wood would do. Even at 220 or 300+ grit, it would have these pockets in the surface. It worked a lot more like those red toned 1/4" project panel pieces do.. rather than a solid plywood. I skim coated the thing to fill and flatten, but it was a lot more work vs just the 'spot patch' I see most getting away with. The skim, sand, prime, sand... then still not be happy and prime, sand, sand was more than I really cared for

My other lesson learned was.. if you bother flattening the cabinet... do ALL the surfaces. The places you don't, sure stand out afterwards.. even if they were just factory finish (like front edge of the head, etc)

Thx for taking the time for Q&A along the way Chris

#1420 11 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

I wish I knew how to post a gif here

The trick with animated GIFs on pinside is when you upload the photo, change the attach dialog to 'original size (no rescaling)'. Then GIFs stay intact and will show with animation. Or post to youtube and link

#1421 11 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

They will send me another

It doesn’t bother me that mistakes happen I make them too but when the label with a Picture doesn’t match the contents it is just hard to understand.

Ironically I just had a mispick with them too last week. First time in a long time... I do love their fast turnaround.. Maybe some new help in the aisles

1 week later
#1516 11 months ago
Quoted from Jerol:

You're kidding, right?
That thing should be condemned...

Just looks filthy... the usual suspects on the pf actually look pretty decent from the one photo

#1548 11 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

None of these are a knock against CPR it is just my experience putting the part into use and having s game play well not just look nice.

I've found them receptive to updating their templates if they know it's a general issue. No one will doubt your # of cycles to validate your findings

Since they are working towards small batch production for on-demand.. having these fixes rolled back into their templates would greatly help the future.

#1591 11 months ago
Quoted from j_m_:

is it just me, or has anyone else ever wondered why the side channels do not fill up the entire side of the translite glass? blocking the light would be a lot more effective if the channels ran the length of the glass on the top and bottom and just between on the sides, rather than the 1/2" gap that exists on the side channels

You can't get them completely flush without notching the back to not interfere with the adjacent piece. The backside is longer than the front. Thus, there will always be a gap, and they probably make one size to fit many. Remember, backglasses and translites all would vary in sizes. Stern has been uniform, but many before were not.

#1593 11 months ago
Quoted from jj44114:

The decal wrinkles because the bolt holes in the decal were too small. Bolts when driven in twists the decal.

They will also wrinkle/distort if the bolt is pulled in enough to deform the wood. The bolt head, not just the decal in the the bolt space, will work the decal just as much.

#1651 11 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Now the edges are ready to finish.
[quoted image] On a straight black cabinet a oil based paint pen is used.
[quoted image]
The bottom edge is left natural wood for a more authentic look[quoted image][quoted image]

Pure.. cabinet.. PORN

I'd still love to see this done in real time to understand how you manage to sand the decal edge without it wanting to tear/move/buckle

#1684 11 months ago

based... stenciled... and first clear all in the same afternoon....


1 week later
#1807 10 months ago
Quoted from orangegsx:

What do you do with the old cabs? Just depleted my fun fund but in the future If you would sell/ship one I’d like to find a WW cab that doesnt have a hole in the side of it from a forklift.
This thread is awesome btw. Your attention to detail and craftsmanship is inspiring. Not just with pinball related stuff either.

he used to offer them up to people from time to time... but ultimately found the process more hassle than gain and now he trashes them. I still hope some of the better ones still find their way out of the dumpster

1 week later
#1927 10 months ago
Quoted from Mitch:

Surprised you dont use a ratchet crimper much easier to use

the red arrows ARE ratcheting crimpers.. and the good types

crimpers (resized).jpg

The other two pair are probably his goto for round pin crimps. Tool on far right is a self tensioning wire stripper.

2 weeks later
#2201 9 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Sanding complete time to polish.
[quoted image]
11 sheets of paper used at a cost of roughly $2 per so $22 to sand it which might be a surprise to some people [quoted image]

all dry too? I guess that's why you have the hole versions.. but this fine stuff seems to clog so easily when dry..

#2278 9 months ago

What happened to the hep molex all the coils design here for dr who?

Good to hear the feedback on the coil wraps. I wanted to use them but just couldn’t justify the cost... your feedback makes that decision easier

1 month later
#2732 8 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Just a little bit of wood grain to deal with
[quoted image][quoted image]

So what's your preference on that kind of situation? Keep sanding, or fill with another shot of primer, or filler?

You moved past it quick..

#2745 8 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

TSPP cabinet is just about ready to rebuild.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

heyy.. we wanted to hear how you finished those edges on such a busy pattern like that!

2 weeks later
#2900 8 months ago

Chris, with you redoing the cabinets in those heavy restores... have you considered swapping the games to slide rails vs the pivot point for the playfields? Would seem like a great upgrade for those designs.

1 month later
#3219 6 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

That is great.
I wish I had some wooden sawhorses.

The concept still works.. they aren't nailed to the saw horses. The nails act as extension posts that rest on the sawhorse top side edge.

#3240 6 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

TZ's reset really easy even if all the boards are rebuilt and connectors are perfect.

not really

#3243 6 months ago
Quoted from TxJay:

LOL, you have been on PinSide for 6 years and you aren't aware of how Chris does things? Where have you been?

Sorry.. this series of photos is not normal HEP level.

2 weeks later
#3322 5 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

The solution to this will be to thoroughly sand and then lightly reclear.
By doing that I will also get the advantage of sealing up my drill holes and newly made t nut recess. .

Will those lines disappear without touch up colors ?

1 week later
#3486 5 months ago
Quoted from Toucanf16:

Can’t wait to see what’s in store for Centaur. Anything special planned?

Endless weeding... that's what

#3526 5 months ago

Dangit... now I wish I kept some scrap from the delays around to use as test subjects for sanding!!

Chris, why require the wife assist to hold the decals vs simply securing the decal with clamps or tape? The method I follow from sign folks is basically the same, but secure a 'hinge' point with clamps or tape (vs holding at far edge). Securing at the hinge point also reduces the run over which the decal must stay straight or resist moving.

I also found how I trimmed the backing paper made a big difference! If not cut cleanly.. little bits could work their way back onto the decal (from the backing itself) when the backing paper of the secured side is allowed to retreat back to the decal. Cutting the backing paper made the most debris for me.. which all had to be careuflly cleaned before applying the loose side.

#3532 5 months ago

What's your preference for dealing with the gap of the coin door? Do you put in some reliefs into the decal before placing? Or do you place it all intact as one piece and just trim after? Some people use backing in the hole to prevent sagging..

3 weeks later
#3810 4 months ago

Chris, what's your preference for dealing with the rubber boot on prop rods? It's usually chewed up and worn away. The different liquid rubber products out there I don't know if they actually would get the same elastic feel and thickness as the factory pieces..

1 week later
#4000 4 months ago

Chris, some questions

1) on the wire guides... I wonder if you could get like a scroll saw blade and maybe run it in the holes to pre-cut some of the grooves? The barbs on those posts look quite big.. I wonder if a 'middle ground' might help in that if you reduced the size of the barbs (without removing them entirely) could help by reducing how much they displace, while still offering their original purpose. Because the groove portion is still going to be a high risk area as you reinstall (or future removals). Will you try to remove some of the clear from the barb 'line' like a star rollover before reinstall?

2) People are having a real problem with the recent POTC playfields from Mirco with the clear being soft and being excessively pushed into mounts by the clamping force of screws/posts. I noticed in your spirit staging, that you got some pretty noticeable mounts even in your staging work.. and from here, it didn't look like just wood movement. Did you notice anything soft or more pushing of the clear on these vs other PFs? In one example, someone could even push their finger nail into the finish on a POTC field.

#4002 4 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

The wireguides are supposed to be a one time install so the hope is once they go in officially they are not coming out.
On the preassembly I only seated them through the first layer so I still have some good wood to anchore into during final assembly.

Thx for your response. The reaming of the clear before final install I guess is the best final defense.

Quoted from High_End_Pins:

I don’t know what Mirco uses nor how much so to take the guess work and unknowns out I am removing as much as possible and finishing with something that I do know exactly what it is and how much is applied. This helps me feel confident about when to assemble and how it should hold up as far as I can control it. If there are issues at the ground floor though it will still help but not be a magic bullet.

Yeah, the open question is if he's recently changed his process/formula. Many immediately point to lack of curing time.. but I'm wondering if he's shifted his product makeup.. as these finishes are staying more mallable many months later. A formula that has too much flex, etc.

You're an amazing data point because of both your experience and the pure volume of samples that pass through. The spirit PFs are interesting because they are after the initial POTC playfields where the first real widespread reports surfaced... even if they aren't as old as the POTC PFs.

You may want to be safe with the torque on these

1 week later
#4110 3 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

To deal with that I reference the old one and make a move able template then relocate it to the new one and drill after some triple checking.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

So with old finishes.. you just make sure you use nice fresh bits? No scraping away the clear, etc before drilling?

(I need to tackle my TZ 3rd magnet soon...)

2 weeks later
#4365 3 months ago
Quoted from yancy:

As crazy as that "hose the whole game" method looks, it's genius. My least favorite part of tearing down & shopping an old game like that is my hands turning black every five minutes from the grimy old parts. Hate having filthy hands so I'm constantly washing them during the job. Then when I'm done my fingertips are black for days.

Nitrite gloves.... not hoses

1 week later
#4414 3 months ago

smudges in the branding? say it ain't so!

1 week later
#4587 81 days ago

wow.. I would have feared acetone would have eaten or hazed the ramp. I always keep it away from all plastics as knowing which it reacts with or not can be tricky.

Were you able to source those ramp flaps? Those look too tidy for hand triming... at least my hand trimming

#4673 78 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

I never understood why making ball guides look like grained/satin stainless was the goal instead of mirror-polishing them. The mirror polished ones resist ball trails better in my experience and look WAY better

Eh? The polished look means any ball trail is immediately seen. At least on grained finishes there is other markings to diffuse the sight of the ball trail.

The grained look is OEM style and isn't as gaudy. Not every surface should reflect spots and glare back at you.

#4680 78 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Have you personally done it?

Yes - plenty. At the end of the day, its still the same carbon ball traversing the same contact patch and the material is the same material.

I also don't like the proficiency for the mirror finish to show finger prints.

2 weeks later
#4845 60 days ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Not sure how much longer I will continue because it has gotten so long and potentially boring but here we go with another week.

its the main reason I visit the site daily! Not boring at all!

#4846 60 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

If we're still here and engaged to the point we're discussing how much we'd pay for live cam access to your work shop to watch in real time, you are anything but boring to the pinheads in this thread.

forget big brother live feeds... we have HEPlf.com to get going

#4847 60 days ago

man.. that BSD is the poster child for "stop calling installing some new parts a 'restoration'". I feel sorry for the folks that paid people to do this kind of work.

Obviously not everyone is doing HEP level work.. but be honest in what you are doing. That's not even a 'refurbishment' let alone 'restoration'.

Thank god HEP can fix up these disasters quicker than the rest of us and get them back into circulation

1 week later
#4958 54 days ago

I like the choice to redo the spots to bigger ones... looks good.

1 month later
#5332 19 days ago
Quoted from pzy:

What in the world is this mess? Haha[quoted image]

someone's repair to the plastic subway that is probably all smashed out at the end...

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