(Topic ID: 225528)

HEP This Week

By High_End_Pins

5 years ago


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  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by LTG
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Topic poll

“EBD Trim legs will be black regardless ”

  • Stainless/Factory 35 votes
    31%
  • Blacked out 54 votes
    48%
  • Painted Gold matched to cabinet 24 votes
    21%

(113 votes)

This poll has been closed.

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Topic index (key posts)

210 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #142 Alien repair completed Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)

Post #621 COMPLETED: Grand Prix Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)

Post #645 Tip Time with Chris - Compressor used for cabinet painting Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)

Post #651 Tip Time with Chris - Guide coating (part 1) Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)

Post #726 COMPLETED: Indiana Jones:The Pinball Adventure Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)

Post #803 A brief history of HEP Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)

Post #826 COMPLETED: Tommy Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)

Post #1228 COMPLETED: Addams Family Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)

Post #1287 Rebuilding a backbox lampboard Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)

Post #1430 Head and Cabinet stripping and repair process Posted by High_End_Pins (5 years ago)


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#10621 2 years ago

I usually don't like to add my comments to thread. There's enough people adding their own comments that you don't need someone else doing the same thing. I am seeing a similar thing from a different perspective and I think it's good to see things from a different perspective.

To set some background ... I have done playfield and mechanical restoration but nowadays I seem to be caught in the electronics world and have not touched the mechanical aspect of a pinball machine for about two to three years now.

Quoted from High_End_Pins:

The hard part is doing it at a quality level,speed and consistency that can cover overhead and leave something behind to pay the bills.

Reminds me of the old saying: You can have it done fast, properly or cheap ... but you can only have two of them.

My situation is a little different. I don't do what I do to pay the bills. I would like something to help fund the research and development that I already put into things but I started this as a learning and exploratory experience. I never expected to recover my costs for me but with the increased interest it would be nice to get some of it back while helping others. I'm not a charity although sometimes I feel like one.

Quoted from High_End_Pins:

That’s a grind and it’s one for me that’s getting a bit harder to handle with the influx of new blood in the hobby. The attention spans and patience are short.

I have seen this. There are some people that want their stuff now and want it for free (or reduced priced). It's only when you start doing things yourself that you realize how much work (time and money) is involved.

I think that a lot of the new blood don't realize that it was only about five years ago that some parts were next to impossible to find. I remember when I got my first Addams Family that had mansion wear and people were talking about the mansion overlay and sanding the inserts to install the overlay. Or magnet burn and how it reduced the value of a machine. Reproduction playfields were impossible to find. There was only the IPB reproduction that was impossible to find. Then CPR had a limited run of 300 playfields. Impossible to get in the waitlist. Nowadays there are Addams Family playfields everywhere bring digitally printed on demand. This has also added to expectations.

From an electronics standpoint Rottendog was the only player in the game. WPC-95 AV boards were impossible to find at one time. People were gutting Congos and NBA Fastbreaks for their AV boards to keep their Medieval Madness running. Nowadays there are many players in the market. This is good. Each manufacturer offers slightly different things so the buyer should be aware of the differences. I believe, however, that most people that fall into the new blood territory don't care and just want their machine working for the lowest cost available. That's almost certainly not the HEP market.

Quoted from High_End_Pins:

The work isn’t a problem,quality isn’t a problem but production is.

Same problem. I got boards. I can build them. I can't build them in a reasonable time frame to my designated quality level. In short ... I don't scale. Artisan work never scales.

Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Much of that is because games are much rougher and there are so many extras these days that it took something that is already super tedious and slow and made it even more so.

From an electronics standpoint there are still plenty of alkaline damaged boards (akin to rough base game) out there. I stopped repairing those boards because it's just easier to build a new one but from a mechanical aspect it's much harder to just build a new bracket or assembly. Someone more experienced in metal works might disagree but there are few (if any) people who have experience in every aspect that a pinball machine touches to have expertise enough to build their own.

Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Turnarounds for things like board repairs and plating are quadruple what they were and unreliable.

My opinion is that it's even harder to find a quality repair technician that does good work that is reliable. I have fixed far too many boards that were worked on by people that should not have gone anywhere near a board (at least not without supervision). The reliable technicians then become swamped and you end up back at the impatient owner camp.

Quoted from High_End_Pins:

The solution is ultimately to shrink my backlog and charge more for my services but it takes time even when you know that is the needed direction.

Yep. I'm in exactly the same boat. I have a new board building scheme that I have been thinking of for a while that will help me get my time back - for me. I find I am spending more time for everybody other than me. This is not sustainable. Ultimately there needs to be a balance that is sustainable because if you stop providing your services then EVERYONE loses because your quality restoration services will no longer be available. Nobody wants that. I am sure I can definitely say that everyone wants HEP to continue for many years to come!

11 months later
#12016 1 year ago

Apologies for bringing this OT back. As someone who has spent an equal amount of time living in both environments (and still spends time in both environments), I have seen both sides.

Quoted from punkin:

I turn some things off at the wall.

Power strips in the US often have a master on/off switch. This can take the place of the wall outlet switch. It's not as ideal as a switch in the wall as part of the outlet (fully insulated and protected in the actual wall box) but it is something that can be used to interrupt power.

Quoted from punkin:

I'll pay $2 to have them individually switched for ever.

Typical Australian outlets are dual (two) and have a built-in switch for each outlet (often HPM brand in my experience) as your image indicates. The closest thing available in the US is a combination switch and outlet (See https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-Decora-15-Amp-Tamper-Resistant-Combo-Switch-and-Outlet-White-R62-T5625-0WS/202027001 for an example). The combination switch can control a light and provide an outlet or it can be wired such that the switch controls the outlet. I did this for an outlet that I replaced. It's simply a matter of wiring the switch in series with the outlet. However, you only get one outlet instead of two.

Quoted from punkin:

... other cultures don't see these things every day.

https://www.quora.com/Why-do-Australian-outlets-have-switches

The biggest things I can think of are:

  1. You will probably feel 115VAC if you touch it (I don't have any personal experience). 240VAC will probably kill you. Having a physical switch to interrupt the hot neutralizes (pun intended) this risk (assuming you are actually trained to turn the switch off when not in use).
  2. When you insert a plug into 115VAC you can sometimes hear the arcing when the hot (active) and neutral pins connect. When you insert a plug into 240VAC you will hear the arcing. Do this enough time and you will even see scorch marks from the arcing.

Apologies, Chris for the OT post.

1 month later
#12249 1 year ago
Quoted from runofkings:

in late-90s Bally/Williams games, do you know what the justification was for using wire striped with a horizontal-colored "ring" vs a more vertical "spiral" stripe? Was there a particular rationale that Bally/Williams used consistently that would explain the different striped patterns used on wire?

Quoted from Tophervette:

I have come to the conclusion that they did the "whatever was on hand in the right color combination".

^^^^^ THIS.

Sometimes, the Williams factory even used a different base color in their wiring. The stripe or trace color is always the correct color. I have seen System 11 machines (Black Knight 2000 if I recall correctly) where (I think) a blue base color was substituted with white. It could have been the blue has faded but I don't think this was the case. It confused the heck out of me when tracing the wires but looking at the origin of the wires (board connector), I realized what the Williams factory did.

The same thing can be seen in the circuit boards. These were outsourced and the board manufacturing factory used whatever brand IC they had on hand.

Quoted from Tophervette:

But was told that as long as the base color and the stripe or band was correct, then it was correct. Strange how two supposedly similar harnesses were built different.

This is correct. The only thing that matters is the base color and the stripe/trace color matches.

Note that in later WPC-95 machines (Medieval Madness and later), the Williams factory switched from using GRY-YEL in the switch matrix to GRN-WHT. I assume this was to remove confusion with GRN-YEL used as ground (Earth in Europe parlance).

#12268 1 year ago
Quoted from runofkings:

Now, that may be giving Williams way too much credit, but it is one potential way to justify the rationale for Williams ordering 2 completely different stripe patterns for the same color combo.

You are giving the factory too much credit.

  1. These wire harnesses are separate entities. There is a lamp harness, switch harness and power harness. In later machines, there is an opto harness. They are cable tied together but are separate entities. Sometimes, the separate harnesses are cable tied together. It is likely these harnesses were built by separate assembly lines rather than one assembly line building each harness. Reason: 20,000 TAF machines in one year (365 days) = average 54 machines per day. You would need multiple assembly lines to achieve this.
  2. If what you propose is true, it would be hard for these line assembly workers to consistently maintain the required standard. How would each assembly line know what the other assembly line is using so they can be consistent and not use the "stripe" or "spiral"?
  3. How would quality assurance know what is correct and again be consistent about it?

The above seems like a logistical nightmare.

Quoted from runofkings:

so I wonder if there may have been a reason for ordering more than one pattern, at least at the outset.

They likely ordered a certain quantity. Maybe, they hit the limit of what one supplier could manufacture and had to order from multiple suppliers. Each supplier has their own equipment and does their own thing. The most important thing was to have the wire available because no wire = no machine. No machine = no deliveries.

Quoted from High_End_Pins:

I actually think it is totally random.

100% agree. The trace color method also differs between the gauge of the wire. 22AWG RED-BLK is not the same as 18AWG RED-BLK. Note that sometimes, the wire colors overlap but can be differentiated by the gauge.

  • 22AWG RED-BLK is the lamp matrix row 2.
  • 18AWG RED-BLK is the solenoid voltage for one group of (usually) 8 solenoids (usually 9-16).

Not all RED-BLK wires are the same in their usage in the machine.

2 weeks later
#12376 1 year ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

I will swap all these out less the non original dmd controller for clean serviced boards I would not trust a single one.

The fuses in that one close up image look to be incorrect. This is something that people often forget to check. Sometimes, operators (or even home use owners) will put an incorrectly rated fuse in to keep the machine running.

Since it looks like there is a low voltage display (ColorDMD), you should remove the 3/8A fuses on the DMC board to disable the high voltage section. I'm sure you already know this but it's something useful to know for the general reader of this thread.

#12378 1 year ago
Quoted from sfspanky:

Never thought of that. Is there any potential for harm with the high voltage section still running?

No harm. You can also leave the transformer secondary J605 disconnected. This will also disable the high voltage section.

Removing the 3/8A fuse in System 11 is more important since the transformer secondary for the high voltage also includes the digital logic transformer secondary and you cannot disconnect that one without rendering the machine dead.

The high voltage section of the DMC (and in the System 11 Power Supply board) is the single biggest generator of heat in the backbox. That 4.7k Ohm 5W resistor can measure hotter than 100C (212F) under normal operation.

#12380 1 year ago
Quoted from sfspanky:

Pull the 3/8 fuse, leave the secondary for the DLT.

Sorry. I wasn't clear enough.

  • For WPC, the display high voltage is a separate connector at J605. This can be disconnected to disable the high voltage circuit.
  • For System 11, the display high voltage is a separate winding but in the same connector as the digital logic. You cannot (easily) separate them. Therefore, it is easiest to just remove the fuse to disable the high voltage circuit.

S11_power_transformer_secondary.jpgS11_power_transformer_secondary.jpg

The fuse is highlighted in red (in the schematic). The yellow/gold box shows that both the high voltage and digital transformer secondary windings use the same connector (3J3).

2 months later
#12759 9 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Can someone tell me what this is ?

I believe they are called terminal strips. Specifically, this is a solder terminal strip as sometimes they are screw terminal blocks.

Quoted from High_End_Pins:

I don’t have any reference material and it’s not something I normally see or stock.

Took me a bit of staring at your image and the manual but I found it.

gorgar.jpggorgar.jpg

The small resistor is the 1 Ohm 0.5W resistor. The big resistor is the 330 Ohm 2W resistor.

#12763 9 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

The big one used to be.

Yes. The resistor has been "cooked" (versus "fried"). It's woefully underrated to handle the current. The solenoid voltage is typically 35VDC (unregulated). When run through a 330 Ohm resistor that dissipates 3.7W. A 2W resistor will cook fairly quickly.

Williams changed the specification in System 11 (but kept the circuit the same). Obviously, they learned from their mistake.

s11_flashlamp_circuit.jpgs11_flashlamp_circuit.jpg

Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Thanks guys that’s exactly what I needed to know.

If you plan to use LED flashers then remove the 330 Ohm 7W resistor completely but leave the 1 Ohm resistor. How frequently the software energizes the flashers will dictate how much heat is dissipated and therefore what power rating. If you use a 5W, you'll probably be fine as System 11 uses 5W resistors on the interconnect board for this purpose. 1 Ohm will produce a fairly bright flash. Higher values will reduce the brightness. Use a value anywhere from 1 Ohm to 5.6 Ohm. This resistor is required because you are using 12V (#89 bulbs) on a solenoid (35VDC) circuit. If you want to align things to what would be used for a System 11 machine then use a 5.6 Ohm 5W resistor.

1 month later
#13074 7 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

If something doesn’t work it’s the first place I am looking lol!

Should work fine. The ribbon cable contains the data bus and a bunch of latch enable clock signals. They are outputs from the CPU board (read-only). If those boards were trying to write (modify) the signal then it would probably wreak havoc on the system. The only input to the CPU board is the zero-cross signal.

1 month later
2 months later
#13860 3 months ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

The colorDMD folks are telling me not to as it needs to share power with the display board.

Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Not sure where the colordmd guys are coming from on that it shouldn’t matter as long as the power supply is on the switched side but I am sure they have to worry about a lot of variables.

There is only one reason I can think of for this recommendation. The DMC (dot matrix controller) sends digital logic signals out over the ribbon cable to the DMD (dot matrix display). Digital logic is either logic low (0V) or logic high (5V). The reference voltage level is ground. If you separate the voltage supply for the DMC (controller) from the DMD (display) they MUST have the same ground reference since there are shared signals between the two boards. If the supplemental supply does not share the same ground reference then you will end up with different logic levels for the signals and possibly damage to the boards. If someone can do then someone will do it.

Quoted from GCS2000:

On STTNG I think it’s prime candidate for doing what you did as that game is so taxed power wise already it doesn’t need anything else hitting it.

This is absolutely correct. The game has 16x opto pairs in the playfield, 7x opto pairs in the ball trough and 4x opto pairs in the flipper cabinet switches. Each transmitter is driven hard at around 0.040A (40mA). That's 27 x 0.040A = 1.08A. That's 1/3 of the allowed current draw from the +12VU circuit right there, just for the transmitters. That doesn't account for everything else used in the circuit (the receiver side circuitry as well as the motors for the cannons).

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