Ottawa, ON
How come your polished play fields don’t have all the holes filled with polish 
What’s the trick? Am I using too much?
(Topic ID: 225528)
Linked Games
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992-
Airborne
Capcom, 1996
-
Alien (Heighway Pinball)
Heighway Pinball, 2017
-
Black Knight
Williams, 1980
-
Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993
-
Centaur
Bally, 1981
-
Centigrade 37
Gottlieb, 1977
-
Champion Pub
Bally, 1998
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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider dr_nybble.
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7 months later
I'd suggest trying oil board stencil material for painting EM cabinets. Using a rigid stencil is how they were originally done and will give the authentic soft edge look. No technology required you can still hand-cut the stencil!
5 months later
6 months later
1 week later
You're more than welcome for the flash lamp PCBs! Good payback for all the entertainment and knowledge we get from your thread.
It was a cool project to learn the software to lay out a PCB and get them fabricated. Minimum order of 5 -- I'd never use them so you may as well keep them on hand.
I made the lamp holes a little tight but they do fit.
I used www.kicad.org and had them made at https://jlcpcb.com. Watched a few YouTube videos and it was enough to get it drawn up in a few hours.
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Reno, NV
I rewired my BSD from scratch since there were a ton of hacks and dubious stuff. Took me *many* weeks poking away at it. Your work ethic and productivity are inspiring! I never would have tried it without seeing your work in this thread. And yes, all colour-correct wiring (most of it "hand-striped" using a drill and paint pens).
One thing I did find....my 22AWG wire is just chunkier than what Williams used. Not sure if it's just the insulation or what.
1 week later
My blue metal rail on BSD is missing some paint where the ball strikes it on the left hand side. I see you've replaced the metal rails with wood ones, are you going to add some protection there?
On my previous BSD I stripped and repainted the metal rails with hammered paint. Had to mix my own since I couldn't find blue hammertone paint in Canada. Only silver hammered and regular blue. Still, came out looking pretty nice.
1 week later
I saw Brian Kelly restore an apron using dry rub-on transfers. I restored a wood rail shooter gauge using them. Worth investigating! They are essentially adhesive-backed screen printed ink. You can see what Brian made here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-mousin-around-dry-rub-apron-transfers
I did a BSD apron with the Silhouette Cameo cutter + airbrush.
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2 weeks later
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I have been asked about it before and it’s not something I can do right now or would put my efforts and resources into being able to do unless there was a huge demand.
I imagine it would take some type of stamping die. That would need to be changed to suit each title and serial number.
Things like that are very hard to source and figure out on a small scale but I am certain were easy back in the day for a huge factory.
Personally. I take a lot of pride in how straight and well finished my cabinets are and I would see it as a bit of an eyesore but I absolutely understand and appreciate the purist nature and authenticity of it.
I did it on an EM cabinet -- basically repunching the existing numbers that had been sanded shallow. The number punch set I bought was the exact same size & font as on the cabinet from 1970! No incentive to change I guess.
Buying all of the correct striped wire is a very expensive proposition. Here's a way to make your own very respectable striped wire on demand:
- buy a set of oil-based paint pens with the colours you need
- get a 3" long piece of dowel, drill a 1/8" hole across it in one end
- put the dowel into a drill
- clamp one end of your wire to a vice or similar; thread the other end through the dowel
- run the drill with the wire taut until you get it turned about every 1-2" (or however you like it striped)
- run the pen down the wire (a long wire may need a helper)
- untwist the wire, hang to dry
1 year later
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