can't wait to see you tackle that broken backglass....I'm assuming it's unobtainium??
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What orbital sander and vacuum/dust extractor are you using? I'm about ready to invest in a new one......
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I have a huge variety of Sanders
I primarily use the Festool CT 36 ties to the ETS 150 for medium level finish work
The RO 150 for stripping.
The RS 2 is also nice on large flat surfaces
If you are really looking to do some heavy material removal then then the RAS 115 is great.
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Thanks for the info Chris. Festool makes some great stuff, and for the volume of work that you do it makes 100% sense to invest in that brand. It is pricey though for the hobbyist like myself who *may* restore/refurb a pin every 12/18 months.......
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Package 1 is an Alien backglass/plexi.
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Well that answers my earlier question..........
Always amazing work as always Chris, makes me and helps me work better and harder on my projects.
I'm also always amazed when you show your parts inventory, the cost of that alone must have been astronomical. However, with the speed and volume of work you do without sacrificing quality it's a must have to have this stuff in stock and ready to go.........
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Until I find a better solution for the sliver ball target I made a place holder up for it and placed it on a plug. That is a round target with a chrome decal.
This will allow me to easily swap the true replacement in and if that doesn’t happen soon enough will be easy for the owner to do once I source one or have the original redone.
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Would Stern’s new Newton Ball Target like on the IMDN Premium work.....maybe with some modifications????
Quoted from High_End_Pins:As much as I hate to say it because of the process involved I agree.
Thinking the gold door and black rails works the best as previously suggested.
Gold rails are going to run too close to the art on the cabinet ,black will just blend in.
A black door is just a little plain looking gold would be nicer within that red art.
Awesome!!! That seriously made my morning knowing you liked my black rails and gold door idea!!! I’m pumped!!!
Chris: the clear tubing you use over the lugs, can you provide a name/source for it?? Been looking around for it but haven't stumbled upon it yet....
Goodness gracious.......does the owner know he's getting the best Eight Ball Deluxe ever made????? Wow, just wow...........
Quoted from High_End_Pins:EBD 2 Cabinet is now ready for build up.
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Looks so...so...so....stock compared to the last one...........
Quoted from AUKraut:Looks so...so...so....stock compared to the last one...........
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Better or worse?
Don’t get me wrong, the quality of your paint job has no equal...however that last one you did, while time consuming, was a thing of beauty!
Looks great....but still needs something. The area above the Whirlwind writing on the cabinet is too big, blue, and empty......
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Siderails
I *knew* you were going to say that.......still.....
I may have asked this before (or someone else has, so my apologies): I have a hard enough time figuring out/remembering which screw/bolt/nut went where when I take out 1 or 2, how do you do it with hundreds of screws/bolts/nuts/washers/posts on a pin that you have no experience on??
Black wafers for sure, but the red or yellow body I'm split on. What are the color lights/plastics in the area, may want to compliment those?
Quoted from High_End_Pins:It actually feeds and drops on the ramp and the goes to the playfield.
I will definitely put some Mylar down on all ball drops when I am done.
First step was getting in there and working now I will tear it all down and start the true process.
I'd actually rivet a piece of stainless on the ramp at the ball drop location, or that ramp may crack from impacts.....
Awesome work as always Chris!!! Seeing that fade now makes me wonder how all that white background would look fading from a light silver on top to a dark grey on the bottom, leaving the rest as you have it....hmmmm??
Quoted from Langless28:Try getting a piece of 3/4" thick insulation foam board. You can lay the plywood on top of that and make a cut a little deeper than the plywood. 100% supported and lightweight, you could also snap the foam in 1/2 or 1/4's for easy storage.
I do exactly the same, except I have a 2 inch thick foam insulation 4x8 I use for plywood cuts with a circular saw. Works great!
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Looks pretty decent in there for a used one.
Understatement of the century.......
Quoted from High_End_Pins:The one that I am on the fence on is the steel ramp it looks pretty cool as is but I could also gloss it up with the trim.
If I hated it altogether I could replace it with a new one from Kerry so not much of a gamble.
I think glossing it up is the best bet.
How about gloss black as you are doing with the top exposed lip sanded back to metal, sorta like a lot of wheels you see on cars on the road today.
I love the black power playfield but.....
It in conjunction with the black ramps make the remaining stainless on the right inside shooter lane stick out a bit too much?
Awesome Safecracker restore!!! Owned one once for a week before I flipped it, kinda wish I kept it.
I will say this for Safecracker: it is a HEAVY ASS pin for as small as it is!!!
Quoted from High_End_Pins:That is probably about right.
When I used to take all my pictures at my warehouse it attracted way more attention and distraction so I started doing them here and after the first few times they got bored with it.
You got the wrong neighbors....if I lived next door to you you'd have to run me off with a stick!!!
Merry Christmas to you and your family Chris!!! Looking forward to many more entertaining restorations to come in this, the best thread on Pinside!!!
Awesome work as always Chris!
Observation for you as I’m sure you’ve tested it: looks like a slow roller in the inlane could get trapped by the gates at the bottom....
THAT is the best looking Addams Family pin I have ever seen Chris!! You continue to top yourself with everyone!!! Holy cow!!!
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I usually have the opposite problem.
My accountants seem to have little understanding of my business and it’s expenses so I tend to overpay.
It’s not their fault it is just hard for them to get.
For about two years I noticed my furniture and office fixtures kept growing in my fixed assets.
I had this line called cabinets and it was like $15k Or so at that time.
I asked WTH!
They said “it’s all those cabinets you keep buying. “
I said “they are PINBALL cabinets not furniture for the office!!!!!!!!“
Another thing I had an issue with was my Automotive Expenses.
The were listed as $30K or so one year.
I don’t have any auto expenses!
Again “I ask WTH!“
They tell me “Ohh that’s all the money spent at the auto supply place”
I say “that is where I get my paint to paint those cabinets!“
Running a business like this as legitimately as humanly possible is extremely tough sometimes.
LOL!!! Sorry Chris....I know its frustrating dealing with that, but I had to laugh at those!!!
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Wiring this F-14 HEP style has proven to be quite time consuming.
Getting there. [quoted image]
The targets and GI are all placed on plugs. Things run so tight that short protection is a must. [quoted image][quoted image]
Rebuilding the coils with the same protections because some run really close to the sides.
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Begs the question: which pin has been worst in terms of wiring it HEP style??
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I can think of many but these are probably the top three.
Medusa(Zipper flipper snd lamps with lots of rollover insert)
Fathom(Much like Medusa but no zipper flipper)
Spirit(any system 80 really but that is the only I have truly wired fully HEP style)
ugh.......that's not making me look forward to putting together my Fathom basket case for my next project!
Quoted from hisokajp:this one wouldn't work?
ebay.com link » New Creature From The Black Lagoon Pinball Machine Playfield Plastics
All sold out in 3....2....1....
Quoted from epeabs:Chris, when you are using fiberglass on your cabinets, it looks like it has fiberglass strand in it, and not just resin. Are you purchasing it with fiberglass strand already in the mix or are you cutting up fiberglass mat to mix in?
Available at Homedepot and other stores:
dark-brown-3m-patching-repair-272-64_1000 (resized).jpgQuoted from High_End_Pins:Final clear is done on the Cyclopes cabinet
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Just realized that the Cyclopes cabinet side art may have been inspiration for the cabinet on AC/DC Luci.......
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Spirit cabinet graduates the paint shop and makes it way into build up. [quoted image]
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Final Centaur run is soon to start.
This will be a two game run.
One will convert a Centaur 2 to a traditional Centaur the other will be another unique version that I will figure out as I go.
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That begs the question: I know you've done several different "unique versions" over the years, and it seems like Centaur and 8BD are in the lead for the most different unique versions. Any idea which pin you've created the most unique versions of?? Obviously I'm talking seriously unique stuff like custom cabinet artwork and not just swapping up bumper caps.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Let’s update the thread.
First I painted some new Reese Rails for my charcoal and custom Centaur plus a set for The KE Shadow [quoted image]
Continued prepping my Mystic Cabinet. This one is coming along slowly right now. [quoted image]
Chris: could you document and detail your revised playfield cabinet mechanism for us on either the Centaur or Mystic?? I have a Fathom that I'm about to start on and would love to improve the playfield raising mechanism.......thanks!
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Depends on the game. Usually I refer to the pictures I have at some point on every build because often things come in assembled wrong or missing something.
I still use old school methods in that regard.
This is my BSD folder. [quoted image]
I have built a pretty good library over the years.
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So much easier than the computer or phone.
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Don't know about anyone else, but I would pay good money for some PDFs covering all those folders......what a treasure!!!
Quoted from mollyspub:Doesn't this scuff and peel up the edge of the decals where you don't want them to?
Your cabinet edge has got to be nice and straight, and you follow up the edging with appropriate color paint pen (which you have to do if you cut the vinyl decal as well)....
28,500 screws in one order???? Pfft....I like my running to HD twice a day for a couple of screws so much better, gets me out of the house and into the fresh air!!!
Just kidding, I buy some bulk as well (if 50 or 100 counts as bulk), but I still can't seem to avoid that trip to the neighborhood hardware store. I can see how for your business model bulk purchases are a must if you want to continue to move thru pins in a timely fashion.
...and just when I think that HEP had reached the pinnacle he exceeds it again!!! Chris that is a MASTERPIECE!!!
Quoted from High_End_Pins:All in a days work. [quoted image]
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Now that's more like it!! Käsekuchen!!! That's one nice looking piece of German cheesecake!
Wunderbar!!!
Quoted from Concretehardt:That TOTAN is jaw-dropping! Sometime if you ever have the time I’d love to see a few pics and a very brief step-by-step on how you palletize/prep a game for shipping.
Pics of that TOTAN and HEP's method for palletizing are in this thread....check the Topic Index
Quoted from mollyspub:What would happen if you used wood filler instead of fiberglass?
Wood filler has no structural strength. While it does ok on a flat surface filling scratches and some divots, any corner or edge with wood filler would come apart with the slightest of impact. Fiberglass is much stronger.
Chris: you’ve mentioned several times about deleting these videos on YouTube after a certain time. Please don’t! They, just like this thread and previous threads, are a treasure trove of information that is hobbyists use to help with our projects.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Darkened it up a bit and did both sides. Was able to make templates to get it consistent side to side.
Still need to figure out the head.
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Really like the look of the cracking.....the only suggestion I would make is to make the "Swords of Fury" lettering to match the translite. The way it was the same color blue it kinda gets lost, in a red/orange fade it would REALLY pop!!
Quoted from Budwin:I have to ask why you would put such an insane amount of work into a stencil paint job as opposed to using decals with clear coat?
(maybe you have answered that a million times already, but this one seems like the decals almost match the paint job)
Is this copyright issue?[quoted image]
My answer: there ain’t a decal in the world that holds a candle to Chris’ custom paintwork!!
Pink LEDs: actually for an amber/orange insert a pink LED really does make the amber/orange pop, much more so than white or amber LED. I had the same reaction when I first got a pin with a few pink LEDs, but it actually works well and doesn't look pink.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Out of everything I saw there the one that bothered me most was the zip tied coil bracket on the battlefield kicker.
It’s a part that you can buy!
That was a head shaker!
When I see something like that it's usually done by an op who doesn't have the part in the stock and wants the pin working again on location to make money, or a non hobbyist pinball owner who doesn't realize that there are pinball parts retailers and use whatever they can find at the hardware store. I've seen numerous pins brought in with #64 flat rubber bands from Office Depot or sometimes even stapled the break in the ring!
I like the new cabinet stand as well, except for the top part that the cabinet rests against. Looks like it could mar the cabinet bottom quite easily. Maybe some type of TPU cap over those??
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