Cave Creek, AZ
lol, I was wondering as well. It looks like solder splatter.
(Topic ID: 225528)
Linked Games
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992-
Airborne
Capcom, 1996
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Alien (Heighway Pinball)
Heighway Pinball, 2017
-
Black Knight
Williams, 1980
-
Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993
-
Centaur
Bally, 1981
-
Centigrade 37
Gottlieb, 1977
-
Champion Pub
Bally, 1998
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1 week later
Quoted from High_End_Pins:TOM coils are all done.
Everything on plugs everything has short and lead protection[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Chris,
Is it necessary you run dual (violet / brown) wires to the solenoids? Manufacturer does it due to daisy chain so I would think dual wires from the molex to the solenoid lug is redundant and not necessarily necessary? You are the master here so I am sure you have a good reason. Just curious.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:That’s done in the interest of color coding accurately.
On a game like TOM both wires originally going to the coils are 18 gauge.
Some of these colors I only stock in 20 gauge so in those cases I use two 20 gauge wires to maintain both gauge and now correct color.
It fits and holds much better within the .093 pins as well as compared to a single 20 gauge wire.
Ok, I figured you had a reason. I am starting my High Speed PF swap and was curious why the 2 wires as I intend to drop to 1 single wire from the Molex connector to the feature and let the daisy chain propagate from the other side of the molex connector to the next feature. I have been ordering 18AWG color correct wire for the install of Molex connectors.
I do like your strain and short protection on solenoids and will adopt that in my rewiring.
3 weeks later
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Fathom playfield wiring is complete.
Placed in the cabinet and powered up for testing. The blue insert rollovers look really nice. I found they look best with a lower lighting set up since there actually orange plastic that has been frosted over in blue. The contrast between the white actuators and blue insert fits the scheme perfectly.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looking Fabulous! Gorgeous playfield!
1 week later
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:I don’t know if you covered this before. With your restorations what do you do for all the factory stickers. Like model and serial tags, all the little s/n tags, inspection tags? If you don’t want to make public you can pm me.
I have wondered the same.
1 month later
Quoted from High_End_Pins:In terms of the dimples specifically there is a domino effect especially on the capture holes and slings where once one thing is off all associated parts are then off as well so properly placing one part means then realignment/adjustment to two other parts plus a lot of double checking.
Here is the overview on that for a single capture hole. This has to happen at each one and makes for a much slower and critical parts placement due to the poor accuracy.
I check every against the original with a ruler. [quoted image]
It isn’t to hard to spot the issues.
What is needed is for the ball cup to be perfectly centered in the hole but also it needs the be turned in just the right angle for proper play so it ejects in the correct projection
Centering it and aligning it properly shows how bad off it would be if trusting the dimples.
[quoted image]
This is how far off nearly ever single dimple is for nearly every single part. [quoted image]
That is once cup corrected and placed there are 3 more to do.[quoted image]
Those are not even dimples, they are pre-drilled holes. wow.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Spirit 3 playfield build continues on. I am at the wiring stage. Well into it.
The new sockets were jumpered as needed with a color correct style of insulated wire. [quoted image][quoted image]
Once that was done the main harness was roughed in place[quoted image][quoted image]
I noticed you placed the solder tabs for the GI light sockets 'under' the bracket against the playfield wood. I would think the solder tabs would go between the hex screw and the lamp bracket. I am sure you have a reason for this and would be interested to know why. Thanks
Quoted from j_m_:in a perfect world, yes
however, given that even today, most of the components are installed by hand and there can be what amounts to large variances between any 2 machines coming off of the line
what chris has pointed out is something that should be taken to heart by anyone wanting to perform their own playfield swap which is to take the time tio measure twice, drill once so to speak. you can easily transfer the assemblies, but unless you're willing to take the time and ensure that everything is positioned correctly, your newly assembled game may not play as well as you'd expect it to
It is very time consuming but super important mechanics are positioned correctly. Many things depend on proper alignment from Plastics mounting to correct ball play from eject holes and such.
2 weeks later
Quoted from High_End_Pins:HG 3 cleared in matte clear.
This one rarely needs an extra session because no colors stack and the ones on there cover very easily and thin.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from High_End_Pins:HG 3 cleared in matte clear.
This one rarely needs an extra session because no colors stack and the ones on there cover very easily and thin.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Chris,
Do you use same clear paint on the Cabinets as you use on playfields?
1 week later
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Start this week off with another cabinet delivery.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Chris,
Where do you order your cabinets from? I ask because I might be in need of a High Speed cabinet. I started sanding my cabinet and there is a lot of water rot. I would rather start with a new cabinet than end up with a crappy job trying to salvage this one. It may not be cost effective to replace but I am willing to at least explore cabinet replacement for my
High Speed refurbish.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I use a variety of builders depending on what I need.
I don’t reveal all my sources or collaborations publicly because it can cause delays for me if they get flooded with orders or drama if they don’t meet expectations but you can always ask me privately. If I can help without causing myself delays or problems I definitely will.
I am not a jerk just practical.
PM sent.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Now matte cleared.
Should be good with that. Since there are no overlapping colors it is a one shot deal.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I noticed you did not mask off the inside of the cabinet or head like i have seen you do in the past. Why no masking on this one? Oh, Yea, We are watching very closely. LOL
1 week later
Quoted from High_End_Pins:High Speed gets set up.
[quoted image]
Some often ask what I am looking for when replacing a cabinet.
Stuff like this.
Many plys delaminated[quoted image]
This moisture issues [quoted image]
This structural [quoted image]
This is a game that has see quite a bit of moisture it shows in the wood and the metal [quoted image][quoted image]
My eyes just lit up seeing this arrival!!!
Looking forward to watching High Speed go through the HEP wringer! I am deep in the middle of my #HS restore. Playfield is 99% complete just got a bunch of parts back from the plating company today and built up the coin door. Ordered a cabinet since mine looked about the same as yours. Delaminated plywood layers, water rot, etc. Lots of rust on my project. Very time consuming.
I did notice the hinge space (for the head/cabinet attaching point) on the new cabinet is different from the original. There are 2 hinge cutouts on the new cabinet and the original, as does mine, has one notched section for the hinge. Is this intentional?
This is your first High Speed correct? How is the playfield? From the limited picture it does not look terrible. Are you going to swap it with a CPR playfield or restore it yourself?
I will be interested to hear from you about how intensive you think the playfield underside is. It is my first restore and to me it seemed very busy compared to other pins I have seen.
Sorry for all the questions. Just super interested in this one.
Here is a picture of my old cabinet wood rot.Cab_rott (resized).jpg
Quoted from High_End_Pins:This is my second but the last one was about 14 years ago.
I will look at the neck on mine closer.
These cabinets are built off the Williams files but sometimes there can be a supplement for a specific game like the head for HS with the dome.
If there is and it gets missed or if there should be and it is missing(happens often with such old factory documentation) then I report back to the builder and we make adjustments.
Occasionally I run into two different versions of the same cabinet.
Getaway is an example where it comes in two forms. One with a pivot only playfield,the other with the slide lock so things like small variations can sometimes be correct even if they are wrong for the build.
Anyone that thinks new cabinet means less work/easier hasn’t done enough of them yet.
The main advantage is new wood that is really the highlight.
You can't fix wood that has rotted or delaminated without a lot of time and effort. And would probably at some point down the line just start delaminating more.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:I need a new cabinet for my High Speed. Who is your cabinet guy?
I asked Chris this exact same question.
This may help
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/127#post-5505776
Quoted from High_End_Pins:No significant updates today.
I was really busy though.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Someone is eye'ing your beer... Oh wait, I think that finger extension might be the attraction.
Looks like you did some High Speed work. Will you be adding the fuse protection for the Lamp and solenoid rectifiers?
3 weeks later
Quoted from SJJ:I have recently found this topic and have been reading it from the beginning. Absolutely amazing work! I have read up to post #1166. Wondering who you purchase your bulk color coded wire from. Haven't finished going through the whole thread yet so if you have mentioned it elsewhere I apologize for asking.
Thanks!
PPS sells 18 and 22 AWG wire by the 10' lengths for $2.25. You can find most of the colors you need. I used to purchase wire from Bay Area Amusements but they merged or were purchased by PPS a few months back.
Search "AWG" in PPS web page to pull up their wire.
Hey Chris,
I'm gathering up my courage and supplies to paint a cabinet.
I know you have posted about buying paint supplies. I cannot find it in the 132 pages of posts. What base are the paints you use for Primer and colors? Are they Acrylic, Oil, or? base?
I would think using water base for the primer on the bare wood would be a bad thing.
Thanks
Quoted from High_End_Pins:BK lamp wiring is done.
[quoted image]
It was extensive.
Brand new GI wire from head to toe. [quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Removal and replacement of the feature lamps and strips.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I know you have High Speed in the wings. I assume you will also be replacing the feature strips on that pin as well? There are a lot of them! My High Speed strips were corroded and not looking good. I found some replacement strips and used those. However replacing them all together would be a good way to go as well. A bit more work but Like you said easier to service if a socket goes haywire.
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Quoted from High_End_Pins:Main playfield in BK[quoted image]
Playfield is out of the HS[quoted image][quoted image]
You have your work cut out for you on that HS! Lots of Light strips. I know your preference is to replace the light strips. Are you planning on doing that with this HEP restore? Mine were in pretty bad shape but was able to find replacements.
The playfield looks decent. You going to use that one or a repo?
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Yes. I will replace the light strips.
This playfield is not that great. Between the full Mylar ,discolorations and popped inserts it really isn’t worth fooling with unless we were desperate.
Have a new playfield so we aren’t.
That new playfield isn’t perfect either but it is a much better starting platform.
Should start getting the cabinet in order this week.
Cool. I am awaiting my cabinet. Should be here in a couple weeks. Is there a reason you keep the Tilt board? I am going to install the tilt cage/ball and pendulum on the cabinet and relocate the volume control to the coin door where it is much more accessible. I see no reason to reinstall the board. I believe Williams did this because they could pre assemble the components separate then slap it into the cabinet when it came time. I believe they made a much smaller board in Taxi. I think it is a needless item in a restore.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I eliminate them often but it depends on the game.
A game like BK with a bell is a game that is good to include it to isolate the bell.
A game like HS needs it also because the panel acts as a stop for the playfield when in the upright position.
Changes are cool but you really need to study what you add or eliminate.
Wow, yes that is a good point. I forgot all about that being the stop for the playfield. Would have been a big surprise had you not brought that to light. Thank you for sharing that. That is where your years of experience pays off.
I can see where BK with the bell is good with the board.
I am still on the mindset to eliminate the board and simply add a smaller stop for the playfield. The playfield came very close to the head when in the upright position on my pin (probably not uncommon wear over the years). Not a good thing for possible wear, however it would not be hard to position the new board for a better fit. It is really not a great design.
thanks Chris.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Everything is in order on the HS cabinet [quoted image]
The issue with the original hinge is that it is flimsy.
Right after HS they switched to a thicker style that better distributed on the neck.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
You can see how much thicker the hinges are.
[quoted image]
Double check the fit. All set.[quoted image][quoted image]
Those are some serious hinges!
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Cleared it for the first time stencil wise.
Will need some extra efforts because of the way the colors stack.
It takes several coats of yellow to cover over black.
There are ways to cheat that like spraying a little white first but that. An create problems later when sanding so I just work through it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks good with the wrap around Red and yellow. Less stacking also. Very nice
You really poured a ton of work into that HS! My cabinet is all prepped and ready for paint. with the color stacking and stencil edge issues looks like I have my work cut out for me.
I can see where the stacking was a problem on the lower cabinet since the red is laid on top of the Yellow. Would be nice if the yellow could be laid on top of a solid red eliminating the edges as it is on the head stencil sequence. Makes for an extra paint step with yellow first on the cabinet and red first on the head. Need to do a little planning on this paint job.
I really like what you did with the white on the head and continued the stripes around the front of the cabinet.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Final clear is sprayed. It is a 45/55 matte ratio finish that will flatten out and slicken as it dries overnight.
These finishes go on thinner and drier than regular clear because there is a matting paste that is added to the regular clear and that paste turns the gloss down but also thickens the clear making it a have a lower viscosity and that is why they tend to lay down a little more orange peeled but they do flow out as they cure.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That belongs in a museum now with a velvet rope around it. 
Quoted from ToucanF16:It needs to be played and enjoyed. Of course, that’s the owner’s choice. I have mini CQ pins and none will sit idle.
Well of course but while it is not being played it needs it's proper showcase.
Chris,
Do you sand the clear coat you apply over the base before you stencil and paint the stencil colors? If so what grit do you use and how much sanding?
Also, how do you prep the (sanded) clear before applying the stencils to get it ready for the next paint? Do you use Naptha to clean the surfaces before painting?
Thanks
1 week later
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Head is mounted on the HS and it is starting to look like something.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Just finished my #HS restore. (yes, I borrowed your stripe wrap and white Williams logo ideas) Looking forward to watching you finish up this #HS.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Looks great. See you like the lighted button also.
All good improvements over the original in my eyes.
Thanks
Yes, The lighted button is also a great improvement. I did not do the back interstate symbol, but that looks great. You have a good eye!
2 weeks later
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Appreciate it Dean. Got the lamp board you made me today.
Looks great!
Thank you !!
[quoted image]
So glad it made it safe to you. I was a bit worried when it got delayed a couple days in "No Delivery Status" state.
Glad I was able to get it made up for your HS restore.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:And. The HS is back in black after exploring my options.
Glad I did but I like this look best personally and it is going to be much easier to maintain.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I like the black legs as well.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Also found on the IJ KE game are wiring splices and butt connectors.
All sockets are rusted or corroded as well.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
What a mess, you have your work cut out for you. Fortunately that is not super difficult as long as someone did not get creative with re-wiring things that should not be.
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Quoted from High_End_Pins:First Monday in a while that doesn’t involve TAFs
I am starting to rework the HS cabinet wiring and get it in place.
There’s a lot going on there with the shaker motor and just the sloppy nature of the factory wiring.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nice to see #hs getting some love.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:HS playfield is building up. [quoted image]
I want to get rid of the light blocking in lane guide set up. [quoted image]
A Data East guide will work in its place because it is narrow enough to replace the wire guide portion on the right as well as the steel guide portion on the left.
A Williams guide is too thick I that area.
The DE guide is the one with the screws in it without the small triangle in the lower left corner. That would be ideal if it had that too but I don’t think it will have an impact on the kickback. [quoted image]
Since I am doing that I want to add the light as well. [quoted image][quoted image]
Using the guide as a template and verifying it will cause no conflicts on the mechs or underside I proceed. [quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Are you using frosted LED's in the return lane guides?
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:So, how long does your paint have to dry before you can mask off and do the next layer. It may just be my perception, but seems like you are knocking out multiple color layers in a very short time.
Those automotive base paints set up quite fast. 1-2 hours is more than enough time between colors depending on humidity and what speed reducer you use. More importantly is that you clear over base coats before 24 hours.
Christopher is the expert here on this subject. Really like watching his projects come to life.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I left those out intentionally for now.
Hopefully it will play well without them.
My concern with installing them is that they will stick up too far and impede the ball travel since the ramp isn’t countersunk for them.
My other worry is the ramp is super thin so the chances of cracking the floor of it when using them or trying the make a recess is pretty likely.
The ramp is well secured as is so it probably isn’t worth the risk.
I left those screws out as well with the same concerns. It has played just fine.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:New arrival this week
TAF [quoted image][quoted image]
It is talked about here.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/addams-family-nightmare#post-5714606
I started to do a photo evaluation but it was just too much to document so I did a quick unrehearsed unedited video.
The game is in good hands now. Looks like a real good challenge for you. Will be fun to watch. (maybe not for you LOL)
Quoted from pinheadpierre:Next time don’t hold back so much in your evaluation of a crummy game. JK
Haha, You noticed that also LOL. I was surprised he valued it at $4000. It will take a lot of work to get it to the $6500 pinside value.
3 weeks later
Quoted from High_End_Pins:I will give it a try. I did switch over to super high protein last month for a growth period.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Peanut butter and bananas = YUM... On toast!!!
Maybe a little cinnamon and YES!
3 weeks later
Quoted from High_End_Pins:New week.
I should wrap this Tron up this week.
I removed several homemade mod wiring sections and a couple unnecessary parts at this point.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I am in the process of making new clean connections for what will remain.
[quoted image]
Is that a pair of mini box fans (home mod) you removed. I can't quite tell from the photo but looks like box fans or BR's
1 week later
Quoted from jaytrem:Sure they are. My last 3 issues were capacitor, capacitor, control board. Cost about $50 total. Since I did all the repairs myself I figure the money saved = money for new pinball machine. New pinball machine = FUN!
The pic above looks a little more expensive though. Sorry Chris.
startup and running capacitors go out a lot. Easy to replace.
Control board may be a little more.
2 weeks later
2 weeks later
Ah, Liberty Bell. I worked on a liberty bell a few months back. Had quite a few issues. Had a few burned up coils due to gummed up mechanisms. Was able to get her up and running 100%. I was not a fan of the game play. A little boring even for an EM machine. The owner liked it because it went with his game room theme. Will be fun to watch it go through the HEP renovation process.
3 weeks later
WOW. This is really a sad story and hard to believe there are people out there that are this dishonest. 13K is A LOT to pay even for a mint game unless it has been HEP'd.
I have been on the hunt for a TAF for a little bit. Don't want one like that though.
1 month later
3 months later
2 months later
Quoted from Concretehardt:Chris I was curious, of all the games you have restored (condition being equal) is there one title that is particularly more challenging than other games, maybe something like TZ due to all the mechs?
Someone asked Chris this same question in the last year, I tried to find the post but no luck yet. There are a lot of posts in this thread.
1 week later
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Spent a couple hours troubleshooting which might be a record for me with a EM.
I started with a game that would do nothing(coin door slam tilt just barely and I mean barely not fully closed)
Transitioned to one that wouldn’t score 500 points.(wire off the score reel in the back box)
Then a game thats score motor would not stop spinning (another wire off a switch very hidden)
Went from that to one that wouldn’t stop scoring 500 (a leg of a roll over switch was just barely touching another under a huge relay bank)
I am definitely getting more comfortable and getting a better understanding of them.
Will do all I can to clean flatten and polish the original plastics and then it should be all done.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Love troubleshooting EM games. It's just wires and connections. As long as you have a schematic it is not super difficult to trace. Nice Job! Looks Great!
Quoted from High_End_Pins:The rest of my latest wire order finally arrived. [quoted image]
My wire restock/expansion is now complete. This should give me everything for Williams,WPC,-95 ,Bally SS ,DE and Stern.
Not even trying to get into that Gottlieb wiring
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from High_End_Pins:The rest of my latest wire order finally arrived. [quoted image]
My wire restock/expansion is now complete. This should give me everything for Williams,WPC,-95 ,Bally SS ,DE and Stern.
Not even trying to get into that Gottlieb wiring
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
DAMN I wish I lived close to you so when I re-wire a pinball part I could just come over and sneak some. MAJOR envy! I will not re-wire something with the wrong color. My wire collection lives in a drawer and order wire as I need, very painful!
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Wire has gotten really expensive.
I just totaled up my entire wire collection in today’s cost having just bought 40 rolls at the highest prices yet and it’s over $7500 for the 120 rolls I have at roughly $65 average per roll with stripe charges etc.
There is so much money invested in infrastructure here that goes unnoticed and unappreciated just trying to really cover the most minor details.
I have only FULLY restored 1 pinball game and the required parts stock is insane! Be glad I do not live close by or you'd have to put a restraining order on me. LOL
3 weeks later
Learned a lot from your threads on painting. Helped me get through my High Speed restore. Was fun to do but I would rather do the mechanical side of pinball any day of the week.
Painting takes a lot of knowledge, experience and expertise to make it look good. Thanks for sharing.
3 weeks later
Chris has answered many of my questions. I am just 5 years into this hobby. His painting skills are something that takes years to perfect. Just love watching him work through the paint process.
Posting as he has been doing is good for his business but he is known well enough that he would not have to post to get any new business. He is probably a bit burnt out. Even doing something you love takes its toll.
1 month later
2 months later
Quoted from Bud:Not to hijack HEPs thread, but I bought that one from the director and restored it myself, big project that took a couple years to gather parts and restore.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That is some tidy wiring with the cat-gut!
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