Quoted from PhilGreg:Man I'd binge watch the HEP show on Netflix...
Seriously yes!
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Quoted from High_End_Pins:We covered the project of the day,fish shipment and Mr Maverick what is missing?
Beer choice.
Tonight is this.
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What year is this? I have a 2014 bottle sitting around...
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Dark gray unmasked.
Ready to clear the first time.
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Wow.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Cabinets are ready to prime.
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Big thanks to my oldest son Curtis for finding me this excellent paint shop proof beer holder.
Keeps it cold. [quoted image]
Vapor proof
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Unscrew the top
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Unscrew the bottom for the bottle opener.
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Even has a little loop attached to it so it will hang if needed.
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now you need one for your 750ml ones.
Quoted from spinal:Re the IJ splicing, why would someone do that? When I look at it, I’m not sure I understand under what circumstances someone would think that would be a good idea. Is it so they wouldn’t have to take pics of what wire is connected to what? Serious question.
I would take a guess having a little bit of colored wire left on all the "items" allows them to be easily traced back to the wires they were originally on. So someone who did not want to take disassembly notes, reference manuals, perhaps take a bunch of photos could easily remove all items off wire harness and quickly find out where they originally went by matching the colors.
Quoted from PBMike:There is a show about anything and everything, I would definitely tune in to a show about Chris.
Hah yes, I watch a guy on youtube named steve1989 who does vintage MRE reviews (and so do others based on the millions of views), I would definitely watch a HEP youtube channel.
Quoted from PinRob:This is how I spray doors (though I use heavy duty nails instead). When turned over rest only on nails or screws to sawhorses
Make a lag screw handle for easy flipping
If you have a door that needs painting, you’ll flip for this tip. You’ll be able to paint both sides of the door without waiting for the first side to dry. Rest the door on sawhorses and drive a 1/4-in. x 2-1/2-in. lag screw into each corner of one end and another in the middle of the other end for a pivot. Slide the sawhorses to each end of the door so the screws rest on the edges of the sawhorses. Paint one side of the door and then, using the two screws as handles, lift and rotate the door on the pivot screw to expose the unpainted side.
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Awesome. I’ll be using that from now on
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Long day at the warehouse. Didn’t make as much progress as I had hoped but I did manage to get all the wood cut and one game crated.
It was like 95 or so today.
I made a floor jig to support the plywood as I cut it.
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It was a lot of cutting.
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All the sides,floors and lids.
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One crated.[quoted image]
Try getting a piece of 3/4" thick insulation foam board. You can lay the plywood on top of that and make a cut a little deeper than the plywood. 100% supported and lightweight, you could also snap the foam in 1/2 or 1/4's for easy storage.
Quoted from kcZ:I also have a 2" foam board for cutting plywood... never thought about snapping it into quarters for easier storage. I like the idea as I'm always moving a ton of stuff to get to it when I need it.
Just duct tape the backside on 3 folds so it folds up and down easier too.
Do you only stock your wire collection in 18awg? So you don't mind replacing a smaller wire with 18awg as long as they are color correct?
Quoted from Calfdemon:Well, that's my JD sitting next to it and I am more than happy to let it take cuts. I would love to see how this one get done too!
a HEP dredd? that will be cool!
Quoted from High_End_Pins:No. Definitely not. Would rather hear a baby cry at 3am.
Your son just had a baby. Wouldn’t hold your breath on that one hahah
Quoted from High_End_Pins:CP wireguides are installed as well the t nuts.
I did the wireguide install on a solid flat surface there was a good strong backing as the were driven in.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Do you have advise for repairing the holes that barbed wire forms were removed from and tore up the play field? I feel like bondo would crumble when installing the guides back in. Maybe something like wood epoxy?
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Nothing washes the bad taste of a $150 shooter rod out of your mouth like a $15 beer
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Is the knob too heavy to actually use? I bought a real aluminum shifter knob to use on my high speed but was too heavy and would smash into the shooter rod housing too violently for my liking.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:The biggest challenge right now is getting everything off the playfield but doing so in a way that won’t do any harm,won’t leave a lot of work to clean up on the back end and most importantly can guide me in a common sense way during rebuild without having to comb through pictures every other minute.
I will do that through color coding.
After evaluating all colors and combinations within the playfield harness I gather every color needed. [quoted image]
As a single example take the trough switch.
White/Red and Yellow/Gray.
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That switch is removed. Rubber keepers are used to secure the screws to the switch because I am not as well versed in how Game Plan uses their attachment hardware so this will eliminate any confusion. [quoted image][quoted image]
Now the color coding. This is done in a very detailed way so it won’t ever show after rebuild but will also last giving any future service the added advantage. This will take a while on the front end but save effort on the backend.
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this is a great idea.
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