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The game came in with a new set of translucent red star post. image (resized).jpg

Luckily in the cabinet was a large lot of used original opaque red post.
I gathered those and borrowed some from a less important spot under the playfield light strips where I came up with 6 or 8 more A18430F2-963F-4814-8DBA-232C27EADD51 (resized).jpeg

It took a little time but I was able to clean and polish all of them into what should be a complete set for the game.

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Post are being placed.
Not fully seating them at this time.
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image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Cabinet is build rebuilt at the same time.

Furniture glides are recessed in with spacers for a little more room to use s hand truck if needed at some point. 1D3F5D26-DA10-4158-85BD-AB9358B013E5 (resized).jpeg
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Plate is reinstalled on the bottom 9CC433CF-DCA2-4A82-8B2D-B4D25265C563 (resized).jpeg

New power switch stand off was needed.
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The bottom mech panel was gone over checking for shorts and switch gaps.
It was cleaned as well as possible including breaking down the motor wheel.I considered replacing the fuse block but I would have to lose the labeling and the cord as well but it is in great shape so it is probably best left as is Now placed but not bolted in the lower cabinet. image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

Wow. Beautiful unbelievable work. Just amazing. Wow!

Quoted from robotron911:
So, these assemblies are bright and shiny. Are they new replacements or are you polishing the metal assemblies on a wheel?

Read through his threads. They are nickle plated. Has spares made up ahead of time and swaps with parts needing work next.

LTG : )

Quoted from fishmanrob:
Wow. Beautiful unbelievable work. Just amazing. Wow!

I’ve been watching this thread closely. I say the same! Beautiful work Christopher, thanks!

My constant reaction through this thread:
- Before Picture -
"I dunno that looks fine to me "

- After Picture -
"Wow. I had no idea. "

It's Friday once again.

Going to start with finishing up gutting the IJ cabinet and moving it out of the way
When a game gets to this stage where you have the new cabinet in the workspaces and the old plus it is in pieces it takes up a big footprint
First step today is shrinking that footprint. 344B2B7E-D70A-40E3-9951-6633EF8B6108 (resized).jpeg

Lower gutted.
image (resized).jpg

I will need to get measurements off of it for the pivot bolts locations so I can drill those in the new cabinet

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Fun factor on this step is a zero

Cabinets are laid out and then the original is measured image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg

The measurements are slightly tweaked to insure the best possible fit,lifting and lowering of the playfield. image (resized).jpg

A forstener bit is used because of the ability to use the pin point of it directly on the measurements
The initial drill is done only through a small portion of the top layer image (resized).jpg

It is then checked again for accuracy of the spacing of adjustment is needed then it is not too late image (resized).jpg

Once confirmed or adjusted it is drilled through using a drill block and normal bit. image (resized).jpg
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Everything looks good now for the other side.

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Other side done. image (resized).jpg

Then the head for the light board brackets 3DBC529E-426A-4304-AB7E-262BB11010D5 (resized).jpeg
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Now I can braid it.

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Cabinet is neatly braided for the IJ project

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Hmmm...I usually measure and drill the playfield pivot holes, light board holes etc. Before decal installation...what it the advantage to doing it after decaling?
Besides not having to cut the decal away with a hobby knife...

is there any reason why the decals are applied prior to drilling the holes for pivot bolts (thereby removing the potential of tearing the decal?

edit: apparently cosmo and I have the same question

Quoted from cosmokramer:
Hmmm...I usually measure and drill the playfield pivot holes, light board holes etc. Before decal installation...what it the advantage to doing it after decaling?
Besides nit having to cut the decal away with a hobby knife...

I do that sometimes as well just depends on the build.

I find that the wood holds together nicely for the drilling with the decal in place though and less holes equals better adhesion in those areas.
It isn't really an advantage or disadvantage.
Cabinet needs the holes one way or the other.

Also forgot to mention that often I have these cabinets painted and decaled before the old ones are torn down and locations are known.

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
I do that sometimes as well just depends on the build.
I find that the wood holds together nicely for the drilling with the decal in place though and less holes equals better adhesion in those areas.
It isn't really an advantage or disadvantage.
Cabinet needs the holes one way or the other.
Also forgot to mention that often I have these cabinets painted and decaled before the old ones are torn down and locations are known.

I wont bombard you with a bunch if questions but do you find differences in the hole locations even within the same title?
In other words are all IJs drilled exactly the same? Thanks

Quoted from cosmokramer:
I wont bombard you with a bunch if questions but do you find differences in the hole locations even within the same title?
In other words are all IJs drilled exactly the same? Thanks

There are definitely differences from title to title and sometimes within the title.

When there is a difference within the title it is usually more because of manufacturing sloppiness but sometimes it is by design

For example Getaway has two possible pivot systems
Early games a single pivot
Later games the slide system

Scared Stiff uses a unique head because it is a WPC 95 but uses the WPC swing out lamp panel so the internal chocking is different than either WPC or WPC-95
I could post so many more things to look out for but cabinets are definitely no where near as universal as they might seem even when you know what you are looking for.

It is a big reason why I prefer to locate and drill all my own holes for things like pivots.

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
Cabinet is build rebuilt at the same time.
Furniture glides are recessed in with spacers for a little more room to use s hand truck if needed at some point. [quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image]

Have not seen this style of glide. Extra spacer , did come with the glide?

Quoted from chad:
Have not seen this style of glide. Extra spacer , did come with the glide?

No that is a standard nylon spacer(probably used for leg bolt protection) coupled with a standard nylon glide.
The spacer sets tight in the drilled pocket so it can’t walk and glide nailed through just to make it a little higher off the ground if stood in its back.

Cabinet bolts are to be painted
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Blasted43B132BF-4B8D-41B0-B02D-B2AE0F3AE0AA (resized).jpeg
Metal etched
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Painted
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While they dry I will get some exercise
Cardio circuits62410B4D-B930-4A9D-ABF8-EE49230B0B36 (resized).jpeg3DD321D3-4467-4FDC-BFB4-3E07F074F630 (resized).jpeg

Mama will fix my lunch
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Looks like Coho again
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On the way out the door the IJ trim looks to have arrived.

image (resized).jpg

Now we can get back to the IJ playfield
The clear is dry and can be sanded for the repairs and repaints. image (resized).jpg

Not too much to deal with here
Little eject discoloration I prefers light frosting over that as apposed to digging and trenching it out image (resized).jpg
Same thought on the mode start hole a little strategic sanding will be better than filler image (resized).jpg

The orange loop will need to be done on both sides. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Due to ghosting I will need to cheat the black borders a little on a couple inserts
Ghosting is a moving target and no matter what I do on top of the playfield the root of it is on the factory surface adhesion. I think of it as a reality more than a flaw knowing that but this is very minor.

image (resized).jpg

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
Mama will fix my lunch
[quoted image]

LOL NICE!! Not many of those Footie shirts still around.

Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:
LOL NICE!! Not many of those Footie shirts still around.

Been with the wife since we were both in our mid teens so I can say with full confidence that only myself J.F. Santiago have inspected her.

IJ playfield is sanded and cleaned. 40A33821-2CF1-4F0B-9934-63F8CD5C6C9C (resized).jpeg
Masked for wood tones
These are done in a minimal way so the masking is just to block the art off not super detailed.I. Don’t want to bury the natural grain in tan paint or fake wood patterns I just want to disguise the discolorations 7B76EE6F-D0DA-45BA-B7C2-F56A61323D33 (resized).jpeg

40319F15-2649-4685-9B78-1EA5FF719B3F (resized).jpegA2987805-75C6-492D-958E-E875CA62947F (resized).jpegE69EA08E-82AF-4AE0-A72D-8615C3F9EF7C (resized).jpeg

The orange loops are masked in greater detail and sprayed 8CD92C38-52C8-421E-9E2D-52DD6D7921BD (resized).jpeg

Now unmasked. 5F4DE004-1BDA-43CA-BB89-CCCC231334A0 (resized).jpeg

Now placed on the light box to check insert borders.

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There are a few concernsB2E8504B-C8D0-424E-BF79-FEEC5FFB7275 (resized).jpeg
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Things like this small chip in willies hair would easily be missed without the light box.

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IJ inserts blacked out as needed.

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IJ apron based in black

image (resized).jpg
IJ POA sanded and prepped to clear once more.
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Tommy playfield sanded and prepped for a final clear application.

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IJ main is all set and ready to clear.

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IJ playfield cleared once again. Also cleared the apron and POA

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Tommy playfield final clear.

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IJ cabinet is up on four legs with rails and interior art installed as requested.

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Grand Prix
Cabinet protectors
6ABC8102-2FC1-4E08-99B7-A7B780B61C1E (resized).jpeg

Reinforced new style leg plates
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New rails installed using mini screws
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Clear outer blue inner buttons help maintain the original visual footprint of the old button set up. 3F0267F2-741C-404A-ADA3-3D678CA24397 (resized).jpeg

Up on legs
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Grand Prix Head is built and placed on the lower.

image (resized).jpg

Next for the Grand Prix will be dealing with the coin door.
You can’t get these and someone put a latch on it. 6367B4E3-4719-46E8-9F5E-F9C381BF151E (resized).jpeg

Once removed there are the holes D102E215-EA67-4EBD-9288-6E8B0712123D (resized).jpeg

Will open the evening beer and contemplate a solution.

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The frame needs to be placed first.
image (resized).jpg

Many drinks spilled on this one the last 42 years.

image (resized).jpg

Curious to see the door solution...

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
Grand Prix Head is built and placed on the lower.

I don't remember any game looking that good in 1976. Of course things were a bit fuzzy back then.

Quoted from ToucanF16:
Curious to see the door solution...

EM parts wanted thread? Like a car body it can probably be welded and ground down, I presume.

Quoted from ToucanF16:
Curious to see the door solution...

The door solution is to tap and run a stainless screw through the holes D7B664B8-E9B1-45F9-88AB-E77F1D388D7A (resized).jpeg

Then grind flat. One is almost perfect the other is close
image (resized).jpg

From there I will wet sand and regrain the door.
It should show well and only be seen if you really hunt for it.

The reason I wouldn’t weld it is that it is stainless steel and it could do more harm this method was a bit more ideal and gets it to a 95% level easy enough.

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
The door solution is to tap and run a stainless screw through the holes [quoted image]
Then grind flat. One is almost perfect the other is close
[quoted image]
From there I will wet sand and regrain the door.
It should show well and only be seen if you really hunt for it.
The reason I wouldn’t weld it is that it is stainless steel and it could do more harm this method was a bit more ideal and gets it to a 95% level easy enough.

So many tricks of the trade!

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
Will open the evening beer and contemplate a solution.

...

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
The door solution is to tap and run a stainless screw through the holes

Impressive. Where can I buy that magical beer?

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
The door solution is to tap and run a stainless screw through the holes [quoted image]
Then grind flat. One is almost perfect the other is close
[quoted image]
From there I will wet sand and regrain the door.
It should show well and only be seen if you really hunt for it.
The reason I wouldn’t weld it is that it is stainless steel and it could do more harm this method was a bit more ideal and gets it to a 95% level easy enough.

Wow, an awesome fix.

Grand Prix coin door skin is regrained as well as possible.

Repair is good.

image (resized).jpg

Grand Prix coin door rebuilt with new lamp sockets.
Old sockets were gummed up.
D74FD9A5-A192-45FB-AC15-FCC951768031 (resized).jpeg

New sockets
A6AF6932-6AE6-469C-9DA0-DEAF5DCC34A0 (resized).jpeg

New wire and bulbs but retains the cardboard sleeves 65E99CCE-9AAE-49DF-9A65-D203DF2B65E1 (resized).jpeg

Inside cleaned as well as possible one part at a time. 2D8627E3-B778-4B16-86D8-3E0F510DE4D2 (resized).jpeg

Ready to install. 0E9FEE98-6B41-4666-AE5B-B105BC9CA99D (resized).jpeg

Head is built and placed on IJ
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Black nickel gun from Chris at HRA
image (resized).jpg

Coin door torndown and refinished in the proper semi flat and gloss speckled pattern 6E17DFF5-2E54-4DE9-A4CA-EA0CEA63F6E1 (resized).jpeg
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Grand Prix coin door now installed. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

Nickel plated prop and glass receiver also.

image (resized).jpg

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
The door solution is to tap and run a stainless screw through the holes

Excellent solution Chris.

The finer the threads, the more holding power they have (important in thin material) and the less "thread gap" when ground flush.

So if you home viewers are doing a plug and grind on a hole that takes, let's say a #10 stainless bolt, you would choose the #10-32 rather than the coarser thread #10-24 bolt.

First number is the size of the bolt (#10)

Second number is the amount of threads per inch (32 TPI)

OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
New rails installed using mini screws

I like this approach. can you provide details on the type of screws are you using?

Quoted from j_m_:
I like this approach. can you provide details on the type of screws are you using?

Yes I switched to this method a year or so ago after a customer wanted me to change from stainless rails to chrome after the build.
I realized the nails just are not user friendly but wanted a similar footprint.
These are #4 wood screws that are 1/2 inch long. They are also used on most jet bumper cap installations

image (resized).jpg

What is regraining of the metal mean? How is it accomplished? Thanks.

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HEP This Week

By High_End_Pins

5 years ago

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