Decatur, IL
(Topic ID: 225528)
Linked Games
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992-
Airborne
Capcom, 1996
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Alien (Heighway Pinball)
Heighway Pinball, 2017
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Black Knight
Williams, 1980
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Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993
-
Centaur
Bally, 1981
-
Centigrade 37
Gottlieb, 1977
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Champion Pub
Bally, 1998
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The HG made it out of the paint shop along with the TOTAN
Starting to get a nice stockpile of cabinets ready to go.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgI got the Radical head back and the mixes.
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Not real impressed with any of them but I understand the limitations and I will just have to do a very thorough and methodical masking to make it all work out. There has been an abnormally large amount of time and money spent chasing a good match and it just isn’t possible which is why the decals supplied were no good to start with. This will still be the best solution because the overall originality of the cabinet and colors will remain much more than if it would have been stripped and decaled.
The one thing that I will definitely have to rescheme is the yellow stripes.
If it were just this section I could probably fake it good enough but the need to do 6 separate ones with varying degrees of missing art is too much to deal with or do consistently so I will do something that looks nice that I can do consistently all the way around.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgI removed the ramps from the BSD and will start working through those.
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BSD ramps are a pain because of the decals.
They are never well placed
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Nor well adhered.
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Add to that how huge the main ramp is and how many decals there are and this becomes a hours long job by itself.
image (resized).jpgChris- That Weller soldering station you use- what model is it? Is it both a de-soldering and soldering at the same time, or is one feature off while the other is on? Thanks! And don't close the thread down!
Quoted from Wmsfan-GAP:what model is it?
Looks like this :
Weller WR2000 Rework Stations Versatile 300 watt, 2-channel stations let you solder and desolder with separate handpieces simultaneously.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Looks like this :
Weller WR2000 Rework Stations Versatile 300 watt, 2-channel stations let you solder and desolder with separate handpieces simultaneously.
LTG : )
Thank you sir~
Quoted from Wmsfan-GAP:Chris- That Weller soldering station you use- what model is it? Is it both a de-soldering and soldering at the same time, or is one feature off while the other is on? Thanks! And don't close the thread down!
I use this. Inexpensive, works wonderfully and has a dc power supply to test motors or test led lights and boards.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018LFTWTK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ayUGDb286ZG4M
Quoted from TG:Chris, can you share how you safely remove decals from ramps? Thanks!
Todd
He detailed it here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/92#post-5171977
Quoted from TG:I saw that, but it doesn't explain the removal process of the decal from the ramp.
Closely guarded trade secret!
Quoted from TG:I saw that, but it doesn't explain the removal process of the decal from the ramp.
Freeze spray 
Quoted from Wmsfan-GAP:Chris- That Weller soldering station you use- what model is it? Is it both a de-soldering and soldering at the same time, or is one feature off while the other is on? Thanks! And don't close the thread down!
I love my weller WD 2M. with the magnetic switches in the stands, it warms from 0 to 660°F in under 3 seconds
Quoted from Wmsfan-GAP:Chris- That Weller soldering station you use- what model is it? Is it both a de-soldering and soldering at the same time, or is one feature off while the other is on? Thanks! And don't close the thread down!
I use a WR 3ME
It has both air and vacuum ports. You can run three things at a time but normally I am just running the soldering and desoldering irons.
The third port occasionally gets used for a soldering pot
image (resized).jpgQuoted from TG:Chris, can you share how you safely remove decals from ramps? Thanks!
Todd
Nothing fancy I just very slowly and carefully peel them off.
If I use a certain amount of pressure and angle most of the glue will remain on the decal and leave less behind to clean off the ramps.
69D3DB73-0812-4152-B70D-CFCBF2AF24EF (resized).jpegBEE87FF3-7BFF-4EA4-A12C-99B4F19FF51C (resized).jpegDC5ABAE1-4798-4197-8BCD-323EC5C5E5FC (resized).jpeg455EBF43-158D-4DBB-A93E-3AEEF26B220C (resized).jpegE243E86B-35C0-48F3-A979-18C9D15CE294 (resized).jpegThe decals for the main ramp are ready
033048A1-541B-4F15-BCB3-3D99AB962632 (resized).jpeg
The ramp has been flame polished after all the plastic polishing and washing. Still a hint of a trail here or there but nothing worth pursuing far enough to melt or bubble the ramp. 4AD64579-5971-4200-A618-8C127BF77006 (resized).jpeg
The brackets are cleaned and polished.
B637800F-334F-454D-A515-BDDD94CC23B1 (resized).jpeg
This one has been mangled for some reason. I straightened it out best I could but when someone gouges the metal this bad it needs some camouflage.
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The shape and location of it make shrink tube a good choice.
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Much better.
3D055F0C-BC2D-41FC-84BA-A00D140D344A (resized).jpegA new flap is needed. Pinbits doesn’t seem to stock anything anymore so I have had to give up on that resource for the most part these days.
I have some spares of other flaps though and can often repurpose those.
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Sometimes it requires a slight modification to the ramp or flap.
D55B0370-23C0-4F2A-9ECB-5D615EAED048 (resized).jpeg
Not bad.
419F8A49-5706-49B1-AA0D-D4FE8721FA15 (resized).jpegA new harness was made for the optos.
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Main ramp is all set less the village on the corner currently getting a facelift by the Modfather.
C59AA01E-CF73-4533-B9D9-DA654D062286 (resized).jpeg077FFF9B-0258-4F76-B655-9225BF6D03DA (resized).jpegWhy not just have new flaps made? Material for those should be readily available, and then all you need is someone with a CNC waterjet or big laser. You can hand-cut them, but obviously that's much more annoying. That material sucks to work with by hand.
--Donnie
This which looks pretty natural and flows with the original art
54A5BF6C-21AD-4BDE-97F1-1993B0539279 (resized).jpeg4C6D3F59-05EE-487C-9B58-E05473B6AC39 (resized).jpegD70A6B6E-7044-403B-9585-F241E3635B61 (resized).jpegCC37FB28-41B9-401B-B2CC-DB7408C8030C (resized).jpeg7A8DA535-8011-4F05-8883-95629B12522D (resized).jpeg31B0BB12-110F-4AFA-8FD3-FCD74124EE89 (resized).jpeg
Blue is done on the head.
Really tricky because it is beyond a color match there is a transparency about it but I am botching it with the airbrush as I go in order to mask the flaws and hopefully blend within that transparency.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from High_End_Pins:Head is ready to clear[quoted image][quoted image]
This Radical is going to be Radical! Skate. Or. Die. , indeed
Radical cabinet is cleared again. Not quite there yet but much closer.
32533DEE-47B6-4D7B-9E21-FD9936B8C961 (resized).jpeg82C9B6AA-422C-457C-87DB-478649CDE277 (resized).jpeg6709FBBD-8BC8-4FD7-9B8F-01D2B35BBBC0 (resized).jpegCE4CA105-ED31-427E-9FCF-8AD9340F5BEA (resized).jpeg0014A3FC-3782-489A-857A-2D4C2E5BE78D (resized).jpeg34B00544-2CA4-4632-B2AF-AC4A1A6EA1E2 (resized).jpeg8BC9CD59-DA68-4276-815C-94C57604D4F5 (resized).jpegF576D7F9-E339-4B0E-93D8-88F832BEA58D (resized).jpeg829C1547-28FC-44AB-B4FD-FE92B56DB8AB (resized).jpeg2AC9209D-F715-4233-8278-D767054B6DB7 (resized).jpegCFF9162F-0124-44F5-9ECA-91C1438DFBE4 (resized).jpegQuoted from High_End_Pins:Nothing fancy I just very slowly and carefully peel them off.
If I use a certain amount of pressure and angle most of the glue will remain on the decal and leave less behind to clean off the ramps.
Awesome, thanks for that info, Chris!
Quoted from djb_rh:Why not just have new flaps made? Material for those should be readily available, and then all you need is someone with a CNC waterjet or big laser. You can hand-cut them, but obviously that's much more annoying. That material sucks to work with by hand.
--Donnie
I'm really surprised that someone that is a pinball fan and owns/works in a small shop with a CNC waterjet hasn't already taken this on. it's an easy part to produce and there is money to be made.
Quoted from j_m_:I'm really surprised that someone that is a pinball fan and owns/works in a small shop with a CNC waterjet hasn't already taken this on. it's an easy part to produce and there is money to be made.
Problem is there are a TON of different flaps....it's not one or a small number of parts. Yes, it's still pretty easy to do, but you have to re-draw each one in CAD and then track and maintain each of them in inventory.
I'd go have them made and do it if it were less than 10 different parts (and someone sent me "bad" ones to go by), but being that it's a lot more you end up selling not many. I think you also need to do "blue" them again after you cut...the material is pre-treated that I've seen, but once you cut it you need to do the edges again or they'll rust.
--Donnie
what's really weird about that yellow/orange leopard-like pattern is that I don't see any repetition. normally, something like that is a few inches to a foot in length and then it repeats (or is rotated and repeats). if that were the case, it would have been a lot easier to create a template and then mask off the cabinet with it prior to shoot a section
Quoted from djb_rh:Problem is there are a TON of different flaps....it's not one or a small number of parts. Yes, it's still pretty easy to do, but you have to re-draw each one in CAD and then track and maintain each of them in inventory.
I'd go have them made and do it if it were less than 10 different parts (and someone sent me "bad" ones to go by), but being that it's a lot more you end up selling not many. I think you also need to do "blue" them again after you cut...the material is pre-treated that I've seen, but once you cut it you need to do the edges again or they'll rust.
--Donnie
agreed, but they could be done in stainless so that you could eliminate the "bluing" process (and worrying about rust) altogether. I'm also guessing that by today's standards there are a lot less variations, so it's the older 80s and 90s games where you have a great number of different flap sizes and shapes. given the size, you could produce a 100 of any given design and they wouldn't take up a great deal of space. how much costs you have tied up in raw materials and the resulting stock is another matter altogether
unless you were planning on making this [your] niche market and sell them (sort of like how pinbits.com used to be), I would think that you could probably get CAD drawings and "do" a run of a given shape and become a supplier to a place like marco's specialties or pinball life
Quoted from j_m_:agreed, but they could be done in stainless so that you could eliminate the "bluing" process (and worrying about rust) altogether. I'm also guessing that by today's standards there are a lot less variations, so it's the older 80s and 90s games where you have a great number of different flap sizes and shapes. given the size, you could produce a 100 of any given design and they wouldn't take up a great deal of space. how much costs you have tied up in raw materials and the resulting stock is another matter altogether
unless you were planning on making this [your] niche market and sell them (sort of like how pinbits.com used to be), I would think that you could probably get CAD drawings and "do" a run of a given shape and become a supplier to a place like marco's specialties or pinball life
Stainless would look better to *me*, but then you have to contend with the purists who want it original, too. Again, another thing that hurts sales, even a little, in an already tiny niche...
I feel you. I have a friend with a waterjet and could get this done, but it's not worth it to me. If *I* had a waterjet, I'd definitely do it. But adding that extra layer makes it a no (I already have a CNC router as well as a laser cutter, but the laser lacks the power and the router lacks the finesse...but I do have the CAD skills).
--Donnie
I don't want to talk for Chris but I think I've become familiar with his methodology from reading his threads. Chris doesn't have unlimited space for equipment so I assume he picks and chooses what equipment to invest in wisely. Plus he stated a few times that his skill set is not in computer graphics, cad, programing a cnc machine etc. I have a feeling he can make those ramp flaps pretty quickly and accurately out of stainless and doesn't use the blue steel anyway.
Quoted from NYP:I don't want to talk for Chris but I think I've become familiar with his methodology from reading his threads. Chris doesn't have unlimited space for equipment so I assume he picks and chooses what equipment to invest in wisely. Plus he stated a few times that his skill set is not in computer graphics, cad, programing a cnc machine etc. I have a feeling he can make those ramp flaps pretty quickly and accurately out of stainless and doesn't use the blue steel anyway.
That pretty much sums it up.
The main thing that is important to understand is when you do this for a living you cannot make a mountain out of every mole hill. You can out of many but not all.
If you do you will never get anything done and you will go broke.
My BSD ramp flap solution was free and took 5 minutes.It is the only flap I will need.
If I were trying to have a stencil made for the Radical yellow stripe. I would still be doing that and even if successful I still couldn’t match the paint so why bother?
What I have done is make well thought out choices to keep my projects looking nice as well as moving and the time saved by not chasing the impossible are best spent improving what is possible.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:The time saved by not chasing the impossible is best spent improving what is possible.
I read that once in a Chinese fortune cookie.
Quoted from pinwiztom:i do not follow this thread for the pinball tips, but for Maverick updates and brew and bbq food and workout tips.
Got you covered.
Beer shipment arrived. Prepping for my birthday Sunday.
3A499C68-0739-4CE1-9979-F8FEA88FF9B3 (resized).jpeg07328E3A-0D4F-4385-8BDB-FA3F1C73370D (resized).jpeg2CD60458-AB3F-4008-BD61-E68EE3DCC1CD (resized).jpegQuoted from High_End_Pins:Prepping for my birthday Sunday.
Your birthday? Three cheers for Chris: HEP, HEP, hooray!
Maverick tore up his second mater so we are onto his third.
They are getting tough to find. It is a Mattel 2007 14 inch plush version. No other will match up.
Found one on eBay.
It arrived.
E256C3FE-4B60-49C4-A594-B4297E86C4C6 (resized).jpeg
He can’t wait. It has been almost a week without his playmate.
66C87B7E-F461-44B0-B81A-E8921D39752A (resized).jpegQuoted from littlecammi:Your birthday? Three cheers for Chris: HEP, HEP, hooray!
Thank you. Sunday will be my 47th in the world and second in this thread.I will be extremely grateful for both.
Happy birthday and many more. I wish I had your youth Actually I wish I had started in this hobby sooner!
Thank you for sharing your labors with us all! Gotta love those perfect pins!
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Maverick tore up his second mater so we are onto his third.
They are getting tough to find. It is a Mattel 2007 14 inch plush version. No other will match up.
Found one on eBay.
It arrived.
[quoted image]
He can’t wait. It has been almost a week without his playmate.[quoted image]
Found some maters here:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WSJFGC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_NkOHDbE412WFT
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