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(Topic ID: 225528)

HEP This Week 9-21-2020


By High_End_Pins

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7,910 posts
  • 419 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 hours ago by hisokajp
  • Topic is favorited by 425 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“EBD Trim legs will be black regardless ”

  • Stainless/Factory 35 votes
    31%
  • Blacked out 54 votes
    48%
  • Painted Gold matched to cabinet 24 votes
    21%

(113 votes)

This poll has been closed.

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Topic index (key posts)

101 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 7910 posts in this topic. You are on page 94 of 159.
#4651 1 year ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

BSD cabinet is decaled.[quoted image]

I've been waiting for you to get to BSD.

#4652 1 year ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

I've been waiting for you to get to BSD.

Hopefully I get that one on legs tomorrow. For today we settle for the SS

image (resized).jpg
#4653 1 year ago

I am continuing to gut the SS so I will have a little more space for the BSD.
461E969B-AD6F-4C7C-995C-039F7B8FED64 (resized).jpeg

This is a restore as I go type of job so I try not to let too many parts pile up without addressing them.
First off is the apron

Has a little art damage from whatever used to be stuck there. A9ED8434-5FA3-4F4E-921E-46251F7C6E9A (resized).jpeg
AE72B881-B644-4D46-AFBA-2BEDC87D44FD (resized).jpeg

Also has the typical groove worn in the trough entrance. C438F8DE-8318-4EE4-8DD3-2E0BA306D3E6 (resized).jpeg

Apron is thoroughly washed and the groove is feathered in via water sanding.

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C04BE8EE-E2D0-4708-93EC-594725F2CA2C (resized).jpeg

Then it is metal etched and refinished as needed.

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After that dries I will deal with the minor touch ups on the topside.

#4654 1 year ago

Time to get the wiring free.
On a game that is this dirty and beat I just clip the important parts out leaving entire sections of GI still in place because I know I will replace and rewire all that.
DF9089DB-5F9A-478D-B398-30351860EEE3 (resized).jpeg
95AF2056-3EB6-48EE-9F61-E4566FE1D656 (resized).jpeg

All harnesses are off DE1017A8-C212-45B1-81CF-2B18B84F95F3 (resized).jpeg

They are laid out individually and will be gone through one at a time after cleaning.
Some will be rebuilt outside of the game others as placed for the best possible routing and fit.

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#4656 1 year ago

Working through the coils. 92BFCEEE-C281-4104-9B99-EB851EA0BC8D (resized).jpeg
B0ECF1E2-00B0-4EB8-8C0D-BAFB5F0655BA (resized).jpeg

Not much point in trying yo clean then up. By the time I wash them,desolder, blow them dry and try relabeling them with lousy labels that don’t stick I can replace them.

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#4657 1 year ago

Jets

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#4658 1 year ago

Slings

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#4659 1 year ago

Getting there.
1AA93C01-FAA8-459F-B094-BD738BE874C0 (resized).jpeg
Did the backboard. Just using some parts and decals I have had around here for a while.

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#4660 1 year ago

Looking great as always!

Do you have random plated parts as spares and use them, then get the used ones cleaned up and plated?

Chris

#4661 1 year ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Slings[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Do you just have a bucket of old coils sitting somewhere? I'm assuming you keep all you replaced parts?

#4662 1 year ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Another great trick revealed! How does it look back lit since it is blue over orange?

Also what is your preferred refinishing finishing procedure for applying clear over them and doing a new clear on the playfield?

Edit: Sorry my bad, i never kept reading and i see what was done in the later posts.

#4663 1 year ago
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:

Looking great as always!
Do you have random plated parts as spares and use them, then get the used ones cleaned up and plated?
Chris

Yes I have drawers full of common parts already plated and ready to go as well as board sets for certain eras.

#4664 1 year ago
Quoted from joelbob:

Do you just have a bucket of old coils sitting somewhere? I'm assuming you keep all you replaced parts?

Yes. I keep them and sift through them every so often.

#4665 1 year ago

We are Balls Deep in on the SS
Most coils are done.
Lots of rewiring.
Parts in the tumblers.
Ball guides are grained
Playfield is stripped complete for my purposes.
Ramps are next. These are filthy.
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#4666 1 year ago

Wow, the boney beast is filthy!

#4667 1 year ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

We are Balls Deep in on the SS
Ball guides are grained

Is regraining a customer preference? I never understood why making ball guides look like grained/satin stainless was the goal instead of mirror-polishing them. The mirror polished ones resist ball trails better in my experience and look WAY better, reflecting playfield details like chrome.

#4668 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Is regraining a customer preference? I never understood why making ball guides look like grained/satin stainless was the goal instead of mirror-polishing them. The mirror polished ones resist ball trails better in my experience and look WAY better, reflecting playfield details like chrome.

Mirror polishing requires about 20x time/dust or more compared to regrain process. For me, one set (ball guides, ramps, inlane stuff, etc) means 3-4 working days.
And for few guys, mirror polish looks too fancy/tawdry (I like it).

#4669 1 year ago
Quoted from Toucanf16:

Wow, the boney beast is filthy!

I think its mostly painted to match the look of the head.

#4670 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Is regraining a customer preference? I never understood why making ball guides look like grained/satin stainless was the goal instead of mirror-polishing them. The mirror polished ones resist ball trails better in my experience and look WAY better, reflecting playfield details like chrome.

I personally like the regrained look best. I try not to turn each and every single part or task into a focal point because some things give more bang for the buck in terms of time and effort than others.
When it comes to ball guides factory fresh plus is more than adequate and leaves time to focus on more important details and processes.
When placed they look nice and can easily be maintained with a scotch brite when shopped out.
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#4671 1 year ago

Parts are out of the tumbler.

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#4672 1 year ago

Playfield build is underway

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#4673 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

I never understood why making ball guides look like grained/satin stainless was the goal instead of mirror-polishing them. The mirror polished ones resist ball trails better in my experience and look WAY better

Eh? The polished look means any ball trail is immediately seen. At least on grained finishes there is other markings to diffuse the sight of the ball trail.

The grained look is OEM style and isn't as gaudy. Not every surface should reflect spots and glare back at you.

#4674 1 year ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Eh? The polished look means any ball trail is immediately seen. At least on grained finishes there is other markings to diffuse the sight of the ball trail.
The grained look is OEM style and isn't as gaudy. Not every surface should reflect spots and glare back at you.

On all my full restores I have fully polished every metal part as I just preferred the look. I will say that they lasted much longer without showing ball travel marks then the few that I didn't do a full restore so I just regrained some pieces. In my opinion it was because of the high polished nature of the finish just didn't allow any of the fine dust/debris to grab onto the guide and leave the mark vs the rough texture of the regraining finish which it grabs onto fairly quickly. In the end it's just a preference thing but it definitely doesn't take me that much longer to polish than regrain, probably 3-4 times the time invested.

#4675 1 year ago

What I was told is ball trail is sort of like polishing. So if it’s already polished, it won’t really show. But I’m too lazy to polish ball guides, so I’ll never know for sure.

#4676 1 year ago

Chris, where’d you steal that fast food tray from?

#4677 1 year ago

Ready to flip and wire.

image (resized).jpg
#4678 1 year ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Eh? The polished look means any ball trail is immediately seen. At least on grained finishes there is other markings to diffuse the sight of the ball trail.
The grained look is OEM style and isn't as gaudy. Not every surface should reflect spots and glare back at you.

Have you personally done it? I have many times and if they're polished to a mirror finish they RESIST ball trails much better and longer than grained or re-grained stainless. I assume because the surface is uniform and there are no prestresses built in by the grain, but I don't know the science of why, just that it is that way for all the ones I've done. In home play you may never see a ball trail you can't just wipe off again. It's a lot of work, but the results are worth it, IMO.

IMG_3697 (resized).JPG

#4679 1 year ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Playfield build is underway[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I love when the playfield hits this point and you start to see the game come up from the wood.

#4680 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Have you personally done it?

Yes - plenty. At the end of the day, its still the same carbon ball traversing the same contact patch and the material is the same material.

I also don't like the proficiency for the mirror finish to show finger prints.

#4681 1 year ago

What tool did you use to regrain the ball guides , they are better than new?

#4682 1 year ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Yes - plenty. At the end of the day, its still the same carbon ball traversing the same contact patch and the material is the same material.
I also don't like the proficiency for the mirror finish to show finger prints.

It is the same ball, but the surface is uniform, unlike regrained. If you polished it to a mirror and finished down to white rouge, there's no way you're getting the same level of ball trails as regrained stainless. I never have.

And yeah, mirrors show smudges, but how often are your fingers on the ball guides once the machine is done? The ball's not doing that.

31
#4683 1 year ago

Can we not clutter this thread up with debate...about anything...there are a million other threads to do that in.
Please just let Chris showcase his talents.

I dont think a question or two here or there is a problem, but lets try to keep quiet and observe

12
#4684 1 year ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Can we not clutter this thread up with debate...about anything...there are a million other threads to do that in.
Please just let Chris showcase his talents.
I dont think a question or two here or there is a problem, but lets try to keep quiet and observe

Thanks for saying what I was thinking.
Overall in general just for a blanket disclaimer. What you see is what I do. Why can be hard to put into words when you break down every single move or method but I can confidently say it works and there is always a thought process and LOTS of experience behind it.
I spend my time very wisely on each project so if I put a ton of time into a custom paint job and fully reinventing the harness that takes me and the customer much further than mirror polishing a transformer bracket or making a custom score and instruction card.
Those details are nice for a DIYer with nothing but time to lose but it doesn’t build a better game or keep things moving where it counts.

#4685 1 year ago

Underside wiring begins
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This is what was left behind on the old one mostly serving as a map for the new stuff.
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I will replace all the solder in lamp sockets starting with the GI.
When they look like this they are more trouble then they are worth. The green shit is hard to remove, they tend to reject solder and it just isn’t worth a $1 a socket to fight it for lesser results than replacing.

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#4686 1 year ago

The sockets,LED’s and screws needed. There are 37 for the GI
All placed.

3499AAB3-8514-499F-9A44-72649E3C9FF5 (resized).jpeg12EBE7DF-C1F6-4B1C-B126-E16E27429164 (resized).jpeg244532D5-6330-4670-BFA8-66327C8E4B10 (resized).jpeg2E82FFD5-49E6-420D-B12D-81235406979D (resized).jpeg8B5D1FF7-548C-471F-B8AD-52559D304227 (resized).jpeg8EAAAE8C-28D9-49BF-A5F8-26014D550ACD (resized).jpegC376AACB-F095-4E8E-BD1C-F2807A3A3972 (resized).jpeg
#4687 1 year ago

Now the feature lamp sockets
I prefer the two styles shown and use the appropriate LEDs to make them the best choice. There is a traditional angle style that is NLA but is problematic anyway so I like what is highlighted.

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#4688 1 year ago

Now I can start placing the switch harness. 3BBDFE91-609C-4E07-B99F-C8502E7C081F (resized).jpeg

The blade switches are polished. 32D9DEAA-CE8B-40A1-B921-87E60E349FFE (resized).jpeg
All toll overs will be replaced and rewired. C4A47779-49A1-4908-A94C-D8F1A3C56F46 (resized).jpeg

When it comes to WPC 95 it is not worth even assuming the switches are good. If you are doing this just replace them.
One thing I also find unreliable on this era especially if the game is beat are the pink quick connects on the center lugs. 9AAC6BC8-178F-4EF1-9D59-5C8164C76034 (resized).jpeg
These will be rewired into sub assemblies

68AEFC6C-56FD-4E68-8607-9B1EED56241E (resized).jpeg796AC013-8278-46C4-967D-17C5D88FE227 (resized).jpegD3CEFBF7-5D64-4056-90B0-90EAC2A9210A (resized).jpeg79D58751-000A-4518-A663-04D16DDB2BEF (resized).jpeg2FE85CEC-23FA-476D-B65C-D464B3FD311F (resized).jpeg
#4689 1 year ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Now I can start placing the switch harness. [quoted image]
The blade switches are polished. [quoted image]
All toll overs will be replaced and rewired. [quoted image]
When it comes to WPC 95 it is not worth even assuming the switches are good. If you are doing this just replace them.
One thing I also find unreliable on this era especially if the game is beat are the pink quick connects on the center lugs. [quoted image]
These will be rewired into sub assemblies[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Have you said what crimper you're using? Your connector wiring always looks so clean.

#4690 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Have you said what crimper you're using? Your connector wiring always looks so clean.

I have a few different ones. The Waldoms are the most convenient when doing the playfield connectors but you really need to tug and double check each pin as you do it.
There are usually a couple here and there that need to be done over even with careful attention and proper technique.

#4691 1 year ago

SS switch harness is done. Getting into the GI now.

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#4692 1 year ago

Working through the lamp harness.

All the GI is being reworked and reconfigured
On this build I am using color correct 18 gauge wire.
It is a little more difficult to thread through the socket leads than the 20 gauge. The choice is based on how thick the factory run was and what type of connectors will be needed to create specific banks of GI.

The threading works like this

Strip a small landing spot.
913EA7EA-4EDF-40F6-A4B3-2F4D35CFD8E0 (resized).jpeg

Then feed the wire through the lead hole E6F93FF2-3958-4A7D-A553-3AD7976083EC (resized).jpeg

Now that the landing spot is to the lead bend 92402B5F-92C5-4352-96AC-0C4A9C91DA4F (resized).jpeg

Soldered
066B504A-DED2-42B1-B400-FEFC67061194 (resized).jpeg
Placed

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#4693 1 year ago

To make sure that the GI cannot be plugged in to any other feature like the solenoids the new junctions are keyed to only fit one another.
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DA985328-E187-4A9A-9F14-AD1DD612F151 (resized).jpeg7B12F740-8F63-4B8E-A105-4084F96C072F (resized).jpeg

The brown and other runs were done the same way. C2301788-A282-4AEC-9F68-434C3DC8010B (resized).jpeg
FF868A01-5E1A-4455-B529-F0C8C95549EF (resized).jpeg
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This is the type of thing that was eliminated and improved upon from the original.
It will make servicing much easier on a few different levels from troubleshooting a short to easily doing bulb changes.

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#4694 1 year ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

To make sure that the GI cannot be plugged in to any other feature like the solenoids the new junctions are keyed to only fit one another.

That's a great improvement.

#4695 1 year ago

Chris, thanks for posting the detail on the lamp sockets. Based on what I can see in the photos of your Centaur and Scared Stiff restorations, is the following correct? I'm trying to identify the correct type to order in bulk for my future rebuilds of some of the games in my collection. Thanks again for all the information you post.

Bally SS lamp holders

077-5005-00 2-Lead Socket with Long Mounting Bracket
https://www.pinballlife.com/miniature-bayonet-base-2-lead-socket-with-long-mounting-bracket.html
077-5002-00 2-Lead Socket with Short Mounting Bracket
https://www.pinballlife.com/miniature-bayonet-base-2-lead-socket-with-short-mounting-bracket.html

WPC lamp holders
077-5009-00 3-Lead Socket with Long Mounting Bracket (Feature/Insert Lamps)
https://www.pinballlife.com/miniature-bayonet-base-3-lead-socket-with-long-mounting-bracket.html
077-5006-00 3-Lead Socket with Laydown Mounting Bracket (Feature/Insert Lamps)
https://www.pinballlife.com/miniature-bayonet-base-3-lead-socket-with-laydown-mounting-bracket.html
077-5002-00 2-Lead Socket with Short Mounting Bracket (GI Lamps)
https://www.pinballlife.com/miniature-bayonet-base-2-lead-socket-with-short-mounting-bracket.html

#4696 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballer73:

Chris, thanks for posting the detail on the lamp sockets. Based on what I can see in the photos of your Centaur and Scared Stiff restorations, is the following correct? I'm trying to identify the correct type to order in bulk for my future rebuilds of some of the games in my collection. Thanks again for all the information you post.
Bally SS lamp holders
077-5005-00 2-Lead Socket with Long Mounting Bracket
https://www.pinballlife.com/miniature-bayonet-base-2-lead-socket-with-long-mounting-bracket.html
077-5002-00 2-Lead Socket with Short Mounting Bracket
https://www.pinballlife.com/miniature-bayonet-base-2-lead-socket-with-short-mounting-bracket.html
WPC lamp holders
077-5009-00 3-Lead Socket with Long Mounting Bracket (Feature/Insert Lamps)
https://www.pinballlife.com/miniature-bayonet-base-3-lead-socket-with-long-mounting-bracket.html
077-5006-00 3-Lead Socket with Laydown Mounting Bracket (Feature/Insert Lamps)
https://www.pinballlife.com/miniature-bayonet-base-3-lead-socket-with-laydown-mounting-bracket.html
077-5002-00 2-Lead Socket with Short Mounting Bracket (GI Lamps)
https://www.pinballlife.com/miniature-bayonet-base-2-lead-socket-with-short-mounting-bracket.html

Yes these look correct.

#4697 1 year ago

It’s Labor Day.

Brined split chicken breast for BBQing
E789967F-8375-47E5-9450-3189C4543347 (resized).jpeg
Don’t add the sauce until they are just about done.
5A4EE282-5CB7-43C3-89B4-DEF0C97028B9 (resized).jpeg
Then a couple fat ribeyes.
4F14A0DA-F5FB-448E-AE0E-2F96FA4560FB (resized).jpeg
2EFE03C7-1B69-4965-9AAD-7EAF2D8539F4 (resized).jpeg

Now steam some wild caught gulf shrimp.

C1E54BF0-154A-4D2F-974A-9744294AEFA8 (resized).jpeg087AAA61-F9DF-45D2-BA53-5114B5973DC7 (resized).jpeg81B32FE4-4D36-45E1-BA68-9534DDD9D592 (resized).jpeg0A865FA2-3D57-4BE0-ADA1-7591CB686E34 (resized).jpeg
10
#4698 1 year ago

Let’s eat.

91EB6F63-D12A-4278-AE3E-95552D5806B3 (resized).jpeg
#4699 1 year ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Let’s eat.[quoted image]

Do you eat the shrimp shell on?

#4700 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Do you eat the shrimp shell on?

No peel and eat as you go. Stay more tender if left in the shell until ready to eat when eating solo.

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