Quoted from hawknole:Looks good, what do you use to lubricate your new slide rails?
I use super lube for that.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from hawknole:Looks good, what do you use to lubricate your new slide rails?
I use super lube for that.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from hawknole:Looks good, what do you use to lubricate your new slide rails?
I'm guessing a new non-caloric silicon-based kitchen lubricant that creates a surface 500 times more slippery than any cooking oil.
If you've read all 86 pages of this thread and need a HEP fix before his next post.
http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/albums.php
Just spent 25 minutes reading through a TZ field redo. I still don't understand masking it seems, Chris will have a small area to touch up but a much bigger area is masked off for example on this picture below it seems he's painted over Rods face in red, but he's just improving the bolt. Maybe it's a transparent mask? I'm not sure what's going on.. doh.
Quoted from mjruser:Maybe it's a transparent mask?
The most common brand is called Frisket.
Quoted from Atari_Daze:The most common brand is called Frisket.
Thank you, now my brain doesn't hurt quite as much as it did.
I finished my HG apron up
Turned out nice Classic Arcades has greatly improved the material they are using for the apron decals at least these are improved over what I have seen in the past.
Is the decal cut out for the red color of the apron or did you have to match that red color to the decal?
Making some progress on the mini I want to go over a couple details before I get too far.
These wires ride the edge
image (resized).jpg
They get smashed. 15715F95-7FAB-40AE-A165-77A63523A091 (resized).jpeg63C6E658-F3EB-4CF8-B1AA-D8C11F2B6CD6 (resized).jpeg
I prefer to pass the wires through the mini.
This is done by drilling holes just big enough to pass the wires through.
Quoted from timab2000:Is the decal cut out for the red color of the apron or did you have to match that red color to the decal?
I used the same red on the cabinet as I did the apron so I guess I was just lucky that the CA apron decal red was so close.
The TZ mini has been completely reworked with a brand new harness
First the switch 0D895CA3-36CB-41A5-8396-600658B5B0A3 (resized).jpegD625A636-D964-4CAB-BF63-86BF07D44729 (resized).jpeg
Then the opto. The white housings we’re swapped for black to complete the look. 5E0EC620-06DE-429B-A1C2-EAAEA0040DAB (resized).jpeg
A35F6887-EE90-49D5-B8EE-C14845035718 (resized).jpeg
It got pretty late so I missed taking pictures of the lamp and solenoid individually.
A0FD76B0-FE37-4EA4-92AD-99EA7BFECD13 (resized).jpeg
This wiring is much more simplified and neater than the original but most importantly it is much longer and will be easier to fish through when mounting on the game. 35A9E6E9-9062-443A-943A-63E54CBC30E1 (resized).jpeg
FA553A14-DD16-45D1-B4BF-174482C0ED2F (resized).jpeg
Mini is ready to install
Man, that black mini is cooler than a polar bears toenails
Quoted from High_End_Pins:The TZ mini has been completely reworked with a brand new harness
First the switch [quoted image][quoted image]
Then the opto. The white housings we’re swapped for black to complete the look. [quoted image]
[quoted image]
It got pretty late so I missed taking pictures of the lamp and solenoid individually.
[quoted image]
This wiring is much more simplified and neater than the original but most importantly it is much longer and will be easier to fish through when mounting on the game. [quoted image]
[quoted image]
Mini is ready to install[quoted image]
Curtis and I got our training done for the day.
He is still working hard. We decided to do it in the hot sun today since it was a short HIIT day.
Most parts are in place now including the mini.
Just the ramp and a couple other details are left.
The ramp is new went with tinted for this build. Making a new harness of course.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Globetrotters is all set so it is untaped.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
The neck shows the shade of blue best in this lighting. [quoted image]
The final gloss is very close to full but not quite and the slickness of the surface is even better.
The thing about cabinets that is different than playfields is they really can’t be sanded and polished for a perfected surface. You have to achieve that straight out of the gun or keep trying.[quoted image]
That paint job really pops.. gorgeous stuff!
I’m also a little intrigued on how you find time to snap all the photos along the way. Slow things down at all?
I love the black power playfield but.....
It in conjunction with the black ramps make the remaining stainless on the right inside shooter lane stick out a bit too much?
Quoted from High_End_Pins:800,1200,1500
If you know you have plenty of clear to work with you could go 800,1000,1200,1500.
I don’t like to go finer than 1500 because it is a good final grit for playfields and creates a surface that looks appropriate once properly polished.
Sorry for an uninformed and noob question, but I have a chip in a playfield (wood, art, and clear lifted together near a narrow post) and was told to glue it down and polish it. But I don’t know what should be used or done for the polishing. Any advice? It’s really interesting and educational following along in your work. Thanks for posting it all.
Quoted from EaglePin:Sorry for an uninformed and noob question, but I have a chip in a playfield (wood, art, and clear lifted together near a narrow post) and was told to glue it down and polish it. But I don’t know what should be used or done for the polishing. Any advice?
In case HEP is too busy, you could also try posting in this thread and give it a review, lengthy but informative!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration
Quoted from Atari_Daze:In case HEP is too busy, you could also try posting in this thread and give it a review, lengthy but informative!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration
Done. Thanks!
Busy Friday.
I started the final phase of my TOM project
Will go pretty quick I just need to harvest the parts off the base game.
Started building up the playfield. Cabinet is already as far as it goes without wiring.
Got the 5x5 lifts out of the way then
Cooked myself one helluva a Friday lunch.
E2E1DE08-3CD5-44AF-8FBD-5942F56B3C66 (resized).jpeg
Trademark fly guard on my grilling beer. 1A156F5C-C09E-4283-AEE9-A02DF4D880B2 (resized).jpeg
Asparagus and brown rice with quinoa nice and rare fillet.
6FDF86F4-ADFC-4CCD-BD2F-4F8A61272E3D (resized).jpegBF9988D6-402A-40DD-866C-941DC50DD34C (resized).jpeg
Put the skids on the HG 560F9D58-5124-4B08-B0EC-6A581A6D63AB (resized).jpeg283C22EF-B348-41EB-BF32-C9939CB0021D (resized).jpeg
Moved it into the assembly room.
Throw the playfield in there to get a sense of the color matches
Quoted from EaglePin:Sorry for an uninformed and noob question, but I have a chip in a playfield (wood, art, and clear lifted together near a narrow post) and was told to glue it down and polish it. But I don’t know what should be used or done for the polishing. Any advice? It’s really interesting and educational following along in your work. Thanks for posting it all.
I like Meguires Diamond Cut #85. It is a good universal compound that can cut and polish all in one. That means less abrasion because you only have one step.
Quoted from AUKraut:I love the black power playfield but.....
It in conjunction with the black ramps make the remaining stainless on the right inside shooter lane stick out a bit too much?
This is a good question and observation so I will put the thought process or procedure out here.
I only wanted to black out the “second story” of the game so I didn’t want to do the ball guides but I did want to do anything that elevates from the floor of the playfield up.
It is always a gamble with these alternative schemes so I never bet more than I can cover so if I have a spare of a part I will chance it and work off imagination but if I don’t I am much more conservative.
Anything that got blacked out was something I could spare if I didn’t like it or revert to original as it fell together if needed. When you get into really specific parts it becomes a point of no return.
Hi Chris, please excuse me from distracting you from creating more pin porn but I have a newb question. I have a shooter rod made of Easy Flow 60 2 part resin that I painted with acrylic paints and I'd like to know what you suggest I should seal the paint with. Also which adhesive you would you to affix the head to the rod?20190725_140401 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Crispin:I have a shooter rod made of Easy Flow 60 2 part resin that I painted with acrylic paints.
That mummified head looks cool, but why photograph it against a background of what could be the worst chess set ever, or red and white hair curlers you placed neatly on a chess board for some reason?
Quoted from Crispin:Hi Chris, please excuse me from distracting you from creating more pin porn but I have a newb question. I have a shooter rod made of Easy Flow 60 2 part resin that I painted with acrylic paints and I'd like to know what you suggest I should seal the paint with. Also which adhesive you would you to affix the head to the rod?[quoted image]
Coating over the acrylic isn’t something I am well versed in because I use auto paints and clears
Auto clear is probably fine for it though and really would hold up well to the oils from hands and regular use. I would try it out on something I didn’t care about first to gauge compatibility.
Fusor makes the products that bond all types of substrates to one another.
https://www.lord.com/products-and-solutions/adhesives/fusor-127ez-plastic-bonding-adhesive-%28slow%29
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