(Topic ID: 225528)

HEP This Week 12-9-19


By High_End_Pins

1 year ago



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  • 358 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Elicash
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“EBD Trim legs will be black regardless ”

  • Stainless/Factory 35 votes
    31%
  • Blacked out 54 votes
    48%
  • Painted Gold matched to cabinet 24 votes
    21%

(113 votes)

This poll has been closed.

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#4001 5 months ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Chris, some questions
1) on the wire guides... I wonder if you could get like a scroll saw blade and maybe run it in the holes to pre-cut some of the grooves? The barbs on those posts look quite big.. I wonder if a 'middle ground' might help in that if you reduced the size of the barbs (without removing them entirely) could help by reducing how much they displace, while still offering their original purpose. Because the groove portion is still going to be a high risk area as you reinstall (or future removals). Will you try to remove some of the clear from the barb 'line' like a star rollover before reinstall?
2) People are having a real problem with the recent POTC playfields from Mirco with the clear being soft and being excessively pushed into mounts by the clamping force of screws/posts. I noticed in your spirit staging, that you got some pretty noticeable mounts even in your staging work.. and from here, it didn't look like just wood movement. Did you notice anything soft or more pushing of the clear on these vs other PFs? In one example, someone could even push their finger nail into the finish on a POTC field.

1)The scroll saw is too risky because it could create more damage but I have ground the barbs down on other builds with ease.
It works well for assembly purpose but with a game like this that is so dependent on wireguides for ball travel the concern would be if they started loosening over time so I prefer to have the full anchor of it in place.
Ultimately you can’t solve or reinvent every single thing so you try to use a thoughtful approach and accept some trade offs. The wireguides are supposed to be a one time install so the hope is once they go in officially they are not coming out.
On the preassembly I only seated them through the first layer so I still have some good wood to anchore into during final assembly.

2)Yes I would say this clear did seem softer than I would expect at this stage but by premounting,then fully shaving it down and then adding my own finish those concerns and issues are solved but the puckering of the finish around post etc and softness is most attributable to overly thick coating IMO.
I don’t know what Mirco uses nor how much so to take the guess work and unknowns out I am removing as much as possible and finishing with something that I do know exactly what it is and how much is applied. This helps me feel confident about when to assemble and how it should hold up as far as I can control it. If there are issues at the ground floor though it will still help but not be a magic bullet.

#4002 5 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

The wireguides are supposed to be a one time install so the hope is once they go in officially they are not coming out.
On the preassembly I only seated them through the first layer so I still have some good wood to anchore into during final assembly.

Thx for your response. The reaming of the clear before final install I guess is the best final defense.

Quoted from High_End_Pins:

I don’t know what Mirco uses nor how much so to take the guess work and unknowns out I am removing as much as possible and finishing with something that I do know exactly what it is and how much is applied. This helps me feel confident about when to assemble and how it should hold up as far as I can control it. If there are issues at the ground floor though it will still help but not be a magic bullet.

Yeah, the open question is if he's recently changed his process/formula. Many immediately point to lack of curing time.. but I'm wondering if he's shifted his product makeup.. as these finishes are staying more mallable many months later. A formula that has too much flex, etc.

You're an amazing data point because of both your experience and the pure volume of samples that pass through. The spirit PFs are interesting because they are after the initial POTC playfields where the first real widespread reports surfaced... even if they aren't as old as the POTC PFs.

You may want to be safe with the torque on these

#4003 5 months ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Thx for your response. The reaming of the clear before final install I guess is the best final defense.

Yeah, the open question is if he's recently changed his process/formula. Many immediately point to lack of curing time.. but I'm wondering if he's shifted his product makeup.. as these finishes are staying more mallable many months later. A formula that has too much flex, etc.
You're an amazing data point because of both your experience and the pure volume of samples that pass through. The spirit PFs are interesting because they are after the initial POTC playfields where the first real widespread reports surfaced... even if they aren't as old as the POTC PFs.
You may want to be safe with the torque on these

I have heard just speculation here but heard that finishes that are sprayed through robotics can be or are formulated differently because they are in constant motion run long shifts and can be a disaster to clean out of the plumbing if they harden prematurely.
This is not specific to Mirco but something I have heard even back in my auto body refinishing certification classes decades ago.
Is it applicable to this situation with more and more playfields being catalogued and run? No way to know but interesting food for thought I suppose.
No matter what Mirco is making good playfields in general so if there is something he needs to dial in or figure out/ growing pains let’s hope he does. When it comes to playfield options never have we had better.

#4004 5 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

The final playfield I will use to highlight that too much clear will not ultimately solve insert bordering and only makes things worse.
It is a Centaur repro
[quoted image]It was done by highly regarded playfield clear coater
As far as the clear itself it is fine but there is just way too much of it for my purposes of building a good playing game.
Even with the enormous amount of clear on it the inserts still have sunken edges. The thickness of the clear makes it look worse because it deepens it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The next issue is there is little hope of getting these insert roll overs dialed in and functioning properly without damaging the finish
[quoted image][quoted image]
The last thing is despite such a thick clear and I am sure thorough process the grain is coming right back through.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Now before anyone starts bashing or defending I used to do this exact style of clear coating. I am living in a glass house here but I do not do it anymore because of the things I learned along the way not just clearing playfields but also being tasked with assembling them,getting the games playing properly and customer/community feedback over the years.
The point is most issues like insert bordering or wood graining can only be solved short term so there is no reason to over clear something or wait ridiculous amounts of time because game play and surface durability will suffer and those issue cosmetically will probably return.
The chances of reasonably breaking this finish into a decent player is pretty slim.

not Kruzman?

#4005 5 months ago
Quoted from jj44114:

not Kruzman?

I made a point not to name names because I do not ever want this thread to turn into something negative for anyone. Don’t care who it is. It is not what I am doing this for or into.
The example I used was the lone example of someone else’s work I had on my shelves.
It was supplied by the owner to build a HEP Centaur around so my purposes of going over it were more to highlight how I truly can’t do that since it isn’t my style or preference of work.
Nothing against whoever did it.
Trying to wow customers with fresh out of the box playfields is a different school of thought and type of work than building first quality total package games.
I have done both and would likely approach each a bit differently so I can appreciate the pressures of it.

#4006 5 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

I would say TAF is my favorite because I have done many and they are almost always beat so the transformation is rewarding.
Least favorite are EMs and Gottlieb System 80s.
Not that I don’t like either but beyond the cosmetics which are universal. The tech side can be more frustrating after the build although I am getting more and more experienced with both.

I'd guess my TAF was the most interesting you've done?

For those reading along, a long time ago I bought a complete wired original prototype TAF playfield. Just the playfield. It had been routed to death...top side had bare wood and many inserts that had been hand lettered with dry transfers and then mylared over. It wasn't really something that made sense to restore. But the weldments were all obviously hand made, as well as some assemblies. And obviously a hand done harness and red PCBs.

So I bought a REALLY beat to hell donor machine. Cabinet was total crap, horrible magnet burn, busted ramps and plastics, etc. I took it and the playfield to Chris, along with a huge pile of NOS parts I had. He meticulously cleaned up all the prototype stuff we could possible reuse and then got a new cabinet, new art, etc, and built a complete machine from the pile of stuff. We used a new playfield as the base for all the prototype parts and I kept the original prototype playfield (one day I'll make wall art out of it).

There was no original prototype machine to "restore", so we did the best we could to preserve what we did have that was usable and then make it basically new everywhere else. Plays like it's supposed to, looks gorgeous, and I'll never sell it. I've continued to do tasteful mods because it's my favorite pin of all time.

--Donnie

#4007 5 months ago
Quoted from djb_rh:

I'd guess my TAF was the most interesting you've done?
For those reading along, a long time ago I bought a complete wired original prototype TAF playfield. Just the playfield. It had been routed to death...top side had bare wood and many inserts that had been hand lettered with dry transfers and then mylared over. It wasn't really something that made sense to restore. But the weldments were all obviously hand made, as well as some assemblies. And obviously a hand done harness and red PCBs.
So I bought a REALLY beat to hell donor machine. Cabinet was total crap, horrible magnet burn, busted ramps and plastics, etc. I took it and the playfield to Chris, along with a huge pile of NOS parts I had. He meticulously cleaned up all the prototype stuff we could possible reuse and then got a new cabinet, new art, etc, and built a complete machine from the pile of stuff. We used a new playfield as the base for all the prototype parts and I kept the original prototype playfield (one day I'll make wall art out of it).
There was no original prototype machine to "restore", so we did the best we could to preserve what we did have that was usable and then make it basically new everywhere else. Plays like it's supposed to, looks gorgeous, and I'll never sell it. I've continued to do tasteful mods because it's my favorite pin of all time.
--Donnie

Definitely. I remember that one. We have built and preserved some pretty cool prototypes over the years working together.
It is something that seems a little lost right now in this age of so much new pinball but back in the early days finding those prototype games or just the pieces and turning them into something was so cool. It was like mining for gold or something.

#4008 5 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Definitely. I remember that one. We have built and preserved some pretty cool prototypes over the years working together.
It is something that seems a little lost right now in this age of so much new pinball but back in the early days finding those prototype games or just the pieces and turning them into something was so cool. It was like mining for gold or something.

No doubt. The Banzai Run was a little easier, but same basic thing. Found wired prototype playfield (though that one was MUCH nicer!) put in an existing non-proto game.

But yeah, the TAF was probably the most interesting one. Every time I pop the playfield up for something (usually a mod!), I stare at those hand made weldments in disbelief. So glad not only are they preserved, but can be played. Props to Kerry Stair...he's the one who found that playfield and sat on it forever while I bugged him every year or two. He finally realized he'd never do anything with it and knew I would, so he sold it to me.

FWIW, I sold an HUO TAFG #999 and replaced it with that game. No regrets at all.

--Donnie

#4009 5 months ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Chris, some questions
1) on the wire guides... I wonder if you could get like a scroll saw blade and maybe run it in the holes to pre-cut some of the grooves? The barbs on those posts look quite big.. I wonder if a 'middle ground' might help in that if you reduced the size of the barbs (without removing them entirely) could help by reducing how much they displace, while still offering their original purpose. Because the groove portion is still going to be a high risk area as you reinstall (or future removals). Will you try to remove some of the clear from the barb 'line' like a star rollover before reinstall?

good question. I'm wondering if a small dremel cut-off wheel could be used to break through the clear where the barbs would potentially cause issues with chipping the clear. it looks like you would only need to enlarge everything outside of the actual hole by about 2mm in either direction

#4010 5 months ago

Busy day today.
One thing about doing this is I always need to work a few steps ahead so if I am putting together one thing or taking apart another I also need to be staging up future projects.Getting the paint work complete well in advance of needing it.

That being the case I am ready to do the final prep and clear on my white and black Centaur.
This will include the playfield as well.
First sand the cabinet. FD28112D-4D92-4E46-B91A-DAAD95EABD87 (resized).jpeg

Done that E8E6332C-8085-4603-B9CC-BCF95713C0CB (resized).jpeg
7EC60885-AE59-4A8A-8861-BB605718A487 (resized).jpeg

Now I want to define the bevel on the lower and get it back to natural wood.
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Did that CD9F43EC-0CA3-4FC6-8BB7-9F1EB0036449 (resized).jpeg
Now I clean the cabinet and mark any concerns I may still have.
This has been a pretty tough one Centaur is a nerve wracking stencil as is with all those rivets but switching up the colors and adding all the shading over a white base took that to a whole other level. C057E55D-51F1-4B68-904C-1AB3B262E58A (resized).jpeg
4829C27A-EB50-4DDA-B8D7-FEDC38D3457C (resized).jpeg

#4011 5 months ago

Next is the playfield prep. Sanded
FD002232-3A80-47AD-8728-41C92F2F9C76 (resized).jpeg

There is one minor spot in the green insert. It is not ghosting even though it looks like it.
The way I know that is because even with scoring it previously clear does not wick into it.

The insert is masked.
A candied green is made up to camouflage the minor spot. The idea is to simply mask the white spot not paint the insert green and it is also important and equally challenging to maintain transparency.
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#4012 5 months ago

Now it is unmasked and blended in with some minor sanding.
Might look a little off in this form but once cleared without pointing it out it will look natural.

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#4013 5 months ago

Next in the prep department is the mini that was supplied for the current TZ project.
It is a CPR without the bevels.

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#4014 5 months ago

Bevels are made and it is prepped and cleared

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#4015 5 months ago

Centaur playfield is now ready to clear.
This one has the red replacement inserts and the frosted green insert.

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#4016 5 months ago

Holy shit, that green insert touchup is next level.

worthy.gif

#4017 5 months ago

Centaur playfield cleared
Insert roll overs have meshed in and should not be gummed up.
The frosting of the insert turned out well. Much better than the white spot that was there.

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#4018 5 months ago

Now the final clear on the Centaur cabinet.I made the corrections. Some were tedious. I am going to go for about a 65% to 70% final gloss level.
Going to be a little harder to judge that when sprayed on a white cabinet but I am very familiar with the ratio mixtures
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#4019 5 months ago

Final clear is sprayed on the White and Black Centaur.
Will achieve the desired gloss as it cures.

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#4020 5 months ago

Back to the TZ.
The plastics and parts removed so far will be gone through or swapped then I will remove more and do the same.
This is a restore as I go project since the playfield will be replaced and I am reusing the existing cabinet.
No point in just gutting it making a big mess and dealing with it later.

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#4021 5 months ago

This is what I will call layer one.
It is all the worst parts to deal with on a TZ.
The miniimage (resized).jpg
The clock
image (resized).jpg
The gumball machine.
image (resized).jpg
The main ramp.
image (resized).jpg
The steel ramp.
image (resized).jpg
The plastics set.

image (resized).jpg
#4022 5 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Busy day today.
One thing about doing this is I always need to work a few steps ahead so if I am putting together one thing or taking apart another I also need to be staging up future projects.Getting the paint work complete well in advance of needing it.
That being the case I am ready to do the final prep and clear on my white and black Centaur.
This will include the playfield as well.
First sand the cabinet. [quoted image]
Done that [quoted image]
[quoted image]
Now I want to define the bevel on the lower and get it back to natural wood.
[quoted image]
Did that [quoted image]
Now I clean the cabinet and mark any concerns I may still have.
This has been a pretty tough one Centaur is a nerve wracking stencil as is with all those rivets but switching up the colors and adding all the shading over a white base took that to a whole other level. [quoted image]
[quoted image]

That is a Centaur work of art. I really like that !!!

11
#4023 5 months ago

The best most positive thread on Pinside!
Many of us lurk here just to see your post. Most impressive body of work.
Both professional and personal.
Thank you HEP.

#4024 5 months ago

What are you planning on doing with that extra TZ mini playfield? My friend bought a TX with a crack right down the middle of his.

#4025 5 months ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

What are you planning on doing with that extra TZ mini playfield? My friend bought a TX with a crack right down the middle of his.

If you can't find one I think I have one off of my old TZ I restored. Not repro or NOS by any means but it's pretty clean if I remember correctly (and local).

#4026 5 months ago
Quoted from kuelman:

The best most positive thread on Pinside!
Many of us lurk here just to see your post. Most impressive body of work.
Both professional and personal.
Thank you HEP.

Thanks. I just put whatever I am up to on here when I can. Glad to hear it is enjoyed.

#4027 5 months ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

What are you planning on doing with that extra TZ mini playfield? My friend bought a TX with a crack right down the middle of his.

I have a few of them. Shoot me your friends address and I will send him a decent one.

#4028 5 months ago

I worked through layer one of the TZ less the ramp ,mini and clock as I am waiting for parts and gave a good bit that will tie into them to the powder coater.
On a TZ plastic set this is the worst one to do the rest are not bad.
Lots of sockets riveting and wiring.

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#4029 5 months ago

That assembly was rebuilt and I made my own harness that includes an extra GI power tap for future use.
On the other plastics as well as this one all hardware was polished.

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#4030 5 months ago

Plastics are done for the TZ

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#4031 5 months ago

Next for TZ were all the coils. A1C764E8-5C40-4BD3-BE27-6A8807718737 (resized).jpeg
F79671D9-D7CE-490D-95F7-654FB8722489 (resized).jpeg

Each were rebuilt many got nickel plated brackets.
Some more prone to shorting or with notoriously short leads were reconfigured with color correct wiring and protective tubing.
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#4032 5 months ago

The slot coil kickout was beat so a new bracket was used and the knocker was reworked with an extended color correct harness.

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#4033 5 months ago

The magnets need the cores removed and turned.
This can be a little tough since the threads tend to be locked up and the cores themselves soft it is easy to gouge them up during removal.
I clamp them in a vise.

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#4034 5 months ago

Magnets poles are resurfaced. C7B22C87-AA8F-4844-8B04-FD921A9B7BF6 (resized).jpeg5B163998-E534-4C84-8B69-8477BB14F2AF (resized).jpeg
That finished up all the coil assemblies.

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#4035 5 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

The magnets need the cores removed and turned.
This can be a little tough since the threads tend to be locked up and the cores themselves soft it is easy to gouge them up during removal.
I clamp them in a vise.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Hey Chris,

I've got a vise that has been sitting on my garage floor waiting for me to design a wall mount but I like that swivel mount too. Can you point me to a link that i can check it out or maybe a model number that I can look up? Does it support a lot of torque on it? Could it also be used for a grinder/polisher?

I was think about designing something with a pivot rod in the center that could be turned over and locked in place with a vise on one side and a grinder/polisher on the flip side but I've just never gotten around to it.

#4036 5 months ago

Donnie came and picked up the WW prototype. Always good to catch up with that guy. He is the original HEP bulk customer 52FE9498-074E-4721-A6EA-FCCACEA9F9AB (resized).jpeg

About 2 minutes before he showed up STI called and said they were on the way to the warehouse.
Three new arrivals. I am just about at full capacity there.
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I have those four NL destined crates just about done but until then my warehouse is best left out of sight out of mind.

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#4037 5 months ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

Hey Chris,
I've got a vise that has been sitting on my garage floor waiting for me to design a wall mount but I like that swivel mount too. Can you point me to a link that i can check it out or maybe a model number that I can look up? Does it support a lot of torque on it? Could it also be used for a grinder/polisher?
I was think about designing something with a pivot rod in the center that could be turned over and locked in place with a vise on one side and a grinder/polisher on the flip side but I've just never gotten around to it.

Yes it is pretty solid.
The lone issue is that you really have to crank the set bolt of the swivel down if you are pushing on it forcefully sideways.
I think that can easily be solved by drilling a hole through there so it really locks in.

I looked pretty hard for a vise stand not a lot out there and the way this one takes up so little space and swivels has been great. They list it at $425 but I think I paid about $285 shipped after searching that manufacturer and part number.
You can mount a grinder or polisher on there easily enough. The platform is large enough but comes as a blank so you trace out the equipment bolt holes and then drill(not easy it is thick steel) and bolt.
https://herkules.us/product/vgf

#4038 5 months ago

After all that a fresh shipment of three notisseries(HEP TM) arrived. BB3FE397-5B7C-4BBB-AD0B-0F04FD66A20D (resized).jpeg
Unpacked. Where in the world can I fit these things?3D5C00FA-F37E-4870-8E5C-7AD36E6025AF (resized).jpeg
Right here

97BB860A-2247-4075-8F54-29C31BBB97C4 (resized).jpeg
#4039 5 months ago

Perfect timing on the arrival of those
It is time to pull the TZ playfield for the final teardown. E004455B-44E3-4746-9EC4-5844D0AD1245 (resized).jpeg
721BF860-5658-43E2-9CC4-966CF64A6FEF (resized).jpegC99ACCE6-5061-4807-8764-D63D2F93A3C2 (resized).jpeg

#4040 5 months ago

Finally got around to planting some bushes in front of the new mini building. Still need shutters. 07879A3A-AF93-4285-8325-C5A30AB105FF (resized).jpeg
Fired up the grill
9A1A4346-C4E9-49F3-80E2-51F371D5258E (resized).jpeg
I usually bake my salmon but mama forgot to thaw any last night so they cook best from frozen on the grill.
5744CC31-95BA-4822-95E9-34611A2EE0AC (resized).jpeg

Break out the essentials C1E7EF37-2005-4FE8-9A4D-BC29712366CF (resized).jpeg

Doctor it up DAA396E6-79A5-4284-A888-4C68BAC023F8 (resized).jpeg8F1CB8A9-EDAF-4A5F-A602-04B2B5605369 (resized).jpeg
Wait

image (resized).jpg
#4041 4 months ago

I don't know how you find time to do all this amazing work, cook these amazing meals, drink this amazing beer, AND post it all to Pinside. I'm exhausted just reading the thread

Chris

#4042 4 months ago

Curtis is still going strong.
He hasn’t lost a huge amount of weight *yet* but the fact that he never misses nor slacks off on a workout is a really good sign that he is building the foundation he needs to ultimately meet his goals and his diet is much improved even without us focusing on that yet.
Today he had a strong HIIT workout.
1 minute rounds
Battle ropes with a squat
88B2CF65-5428-4E71-848B-B0FAB5A2B862 (resized).jpeg

Dumbbell squat press BB92400E-5B50-4DD4-A830-9632135C8075 (resized).jpeg
B873D9CE-2466-4C4C-A09F-6CE25436B111 (resized).jpeg

Front and side raises for a breather7681B014-5636-4DD4-8607-CA89A613180F (resized).jpeg
3EDF5CF6-4EB2-484E-B04A-E099D105006E (resized).jpeg
Bounce the heavy ball(30lbs) side to side 932E2C1F-AFF5-4BD1-B667-DCB49ABAB3AF (resized).jpegE908C943-C8C6-4135-95E0-C5E4DD6002B4 (resized).jpeg7A4CD7C9-371B-4C71-906C-A237D7ECA846 (resized).jpeg
Run to the light post and backC05C55F5-2DEE-4A6E-999A-DAEBABD433E9 (resized).jpeg
13873580-20CB-4ED4-88A7-65FC38C5DA93 (resized).jpeg
22EBD515-88FF-4D2C-9208-3108BC6749B5 (resized).jpeg
4EC0F8AF-4F5F-4C63-AFDB-6B1A21622D8B (resized).jpeg
Side to side single arm kettle bell swings B8B2BB0C-CE88-476F-B7C4-5222EE8407E0 (resized).jpeg

F9189E7F-3547-4DC1-8F17-994C2712FBF3 (resized).jpeg
Slam ball
348B94AB-4073-4F0D-98EB-DF0F4908CCC4 (resized).jpeg
1608492E-1309-4828-8CF8-22D7D412DB38 (resized).jpeg
6A4985F2-359E-4BD1-80A7-1C7B31E3B1AC (resized).jpeg
Fast feet on the ball
A7F518BA-A1D3-4CDE-91B3-F4A605F3782B (resized).jpeg
D8D59D95-3B5B-4E16-B7B4-DE92C28DC316 (resized).jpeg
DF883557-F131-4313-8241-6A7FACBDD255 (resized).jpeg
First day of doing burpees. This was something that wasn’t even a thought of possibility when he started.
EFD3E030-5ABD-4984-873D-51A9ED69A6B7 (resized).jpeg
EA610F32-436B-4580-8B4C-6B4B8C39527A (resized).jpeg
797C255A-4049-425A-94C6-21563BF73BA6 (resized).jpeg
7285AC02-90D9-43B4-9AD7-2A31FB4815DD (resized).jpeg
That was an intense 36 minutes

09597271-FB82-43CA-AA56-09829D145CCB (resized).jpegC9700B65-D0F5-466E-B109-309B4202CE34 (resized).jpeg
#4043 4 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

He hasn’t lost a huge amount of weight *yet*

...but I bet he's replacing some fat with muscle. Curtis is an inspiration. Keep it up!

#4044 4 months ago

Keep up the great work Curtis! Looks like me at the grill with a beer!

#4045 4 months ago
Quoted from yancy:

...but I bet he's replacing some fat with muscle. Curtis is an inspiration. Keep it up!

Definitely. He is so much stronger and capable than when we started. I think he is really on the road to making some beneficial lifelong changes.

#4046 4 months ago

Grocery day
It takes a small fortune to feed this house.
A00A9302-79F6-4E65-9981-DBFC5835DEB8 (resized).jpeg
1198424F-CA8A-4D0E-9A4C-ABE4DC7A854B (resized).jpeg
I am always curious about Marshall’s junk food
D4B8AF29-F9AF-409B-B326-570B8D1EFBD4 (resized).jpeg
Hmmm?CABF63B5-A0D2-4D38-A45C-F84ADD71E6B1 (resized).jpeg
Not bad actually.
EE0E78F6-4E9F-447B-86E3-4215E2627F62 (resized).jpeg
This puts me back on the grill though because we like to cook and eat steaks the day they are bought and with the trip home they are already primed for the grill temperature wise

98646FE2-0E0B-4CA5-8959-4C63B0F91427 (resized).jpeg64E9C14F-FC0C-44D9-AF33-DA1665563A91 (resized).jpegE88FC92B-87CC-4D9F-AE93-EC1E0B246B4E (resized).jpeg
#4047 4 months ago

Back at it. 387A6543-1EEF-486C-8D4C-0C0575A5982A (resized).jpeg
Don’t look just cook 079FD926-EE66-48E2-9FDD-C204902AA9C7 (resized).jpeg
Ready A6A6863A-0809-4C41-83F4-1E1718358A59 (resized).jpeg
Lunch is served

7C2E3ABA-F6ED-4E19-AE29-4113CF4D323E (resized).jpeg60A86316-B028-4BB2-8F4F-773953C617B9 (resized).jpeg
#4048 4 months ago

Maverick got his protein now he is practicing both his grappling
B6D64D66-09E8-486A-839A-1243190B07DC.gif
Then his wrestling
C94D1065-63E6-48BB-8B93-1CCF78EC75C4.gif
After five rounds on a full stomach he is tired.
image.jpg

He lays in the strangest positions sometimes those back legs couldn’t be comfortable could they?

648CA39F-A29D-4A07-A8E4-794E92BFFB5B.jpeg
#4049 4 months ago

Back to my TZ project.
There is a change of plans on the cabinet. After I highlighted some issues I can’t fully correct on the original lower for the owner he elected to at the very least redo the entire cabinet.
This change comes a bit too late in the process to build a new cabinet so I will strip repair and reuse this one.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#4050 4 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Finally got around to planting some bushes in front of the new mini building. Still need shutters. [quoted image]

You can thaw salmon in a ziplock in cold water. Only takes about 30 minutes. We do it all the time. Denser meats (steak, ground beef, chicken, hot dogs) take longer, but can still be thawed within an hour.

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