Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
Airborne
Capcom, 1996
Alien (Heighway Pinball)
Heighway Pinball, 2017
Black Knight
Williams, 1980
Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993
Centaur
Bally, 1981
Centigrade 37
Gottlieb, 1977
Champion Pub
Bally, 1998Look at that beefcake! Steaks look good too
Quoted from High_End_Pins:We just did beat the rain.
[quoted image]
I am really glad to see it though because it will make tonight’s fireworks a bit safer.
Now for dessert
French toast sticks
[quoted image]
Ice cream[quoted image]
The captains fruit
[quoted image]
Whip cream[quoted image]
Chocolate and almonds.[quoted image]
Quoted from DefDumBlindKid:Look at that beefcake! Steaks look good too
Maverick is getting pretty buff 
He gets lot of activity and protein.
Fourth of July toy assortment.
85A92DBA-CF1E-47A1-9C46-43F0DA858B59 (resized).jpegQuoted from lurch:You should start a YouTube channel. "Pins n Steaks" I'd watch. Or maybe a workout video for us fat ass pinball players.
I like that idea. “Stouts n solenoids”tm 
Caught shit on fire 
0EB81716-338E-4E2F-8E6D-482904AF0B44 (resized).jpeg8AF9B8E4-B5CA-4B3E-9943-28898A7DE15B (resized).jpeg35441033-D5F4-4FCA-8395-777EA9E90F6C (resized).jpeg2CBC8F53-BD14-465D-8ECC-117FCADC29FB (resized).jpeg4D502BD3-A61A-44ED-A823-A1FC95D59AA7 (resized).jpegC2195689-6EE4-4D75-A23B-2AD135E21041 (resized).jpeg60D64198-0D71-4A70-9C01-15307C5DE127 (resized).jpegAB790985-281C-496D-AD60-17BAA0B51D40 (resized).jpegB7DD5E40-6139-43B6-9579-DD12EF87FB9B (resized).jpegQuoted from High_End_Pins:We just did beat the rain.
[quoted image]
I am really glad to see it though because it will make tonight’s fireworks a bit safer.
Now for dessert
French toast sticks
[quoted image]
Ice cream[quoted image]
The captains fruit
[quoted image]
Whip cream[quoted image]
Chocolate and almonds.[quoted image]
Awesome feast!
Those new pop-bumpers and borg paint job look phenomenal, dude. In all seriousness, you really are a flipping artist.
Had to sleep in today.
Maverick is still trying to recover
30C796C2-B5A0-4E9B-BB0A-4AEEA6300A72 (resized).jpeg
About all that is left on STTNG is assembling the gun and installing it
Halves are dry D26A93A7-0DFF-4699-B33A-BDD6D3926CC9 (resized).jpeg
Hardware is separated B6E81007-EB47-4F0A-A30C-87DF15BE9877 (resized).jpeg
Nickel plated trigger
0C6B423B-3A30-4842-8166-F2045C607854 (resized).jpeg
Plunger spring is broken
BEAC41DB-0F25-42C0-A01A-B8D8FDFCF888 (resized).jpeg
I go into my generic spring bin and pick two that I think would be correct but with differing tensions.
8CE23622-406E-49E4-AFBE-F3726EECCAA4 (resized).jpegGun is assembled.
6A92DC45-3865-4822-982C-95E18ED139CD (resized).jpeg
Target foam is used to cushion it against the cabinet.
68ECAFD6-73A1-47EA-8543-1EE7AFB3E368 (resized).jpeg
Once installed it sets nice and tight but there is no concern with it imprinting the cabinet art.
25D5740D-4055-4C1E-9E5E-B9C37B3F4833 (resized).jpeg8203F25B-5B70-4AD5-8682-7D8850E66E99 (resized).jpegSTTNG 2
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgSTTNG 3
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgSTTNG 4
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgSTTNG 6
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from skink91:Those new pop-bumpers and borg paint job look phenomenal, dude. In all seriousness, you really are a flipping artist.
Thanks cannot take any credit for the Borg ship I bought that from Pinballlife.
I almost decided to enhance it a bit more in the paint shop when I was doing the Romulan ship but decided it was pretty damn nice as is.
Ready to start staging up my next round of playfields to restore or perfect.
Some will go in projects others will be stand alone projects or be sold once complete.
First is a Diamond Plated Whirlwind. image (resized).jpg
The Radical playfield from the Radical project image (resized).jpg
A Mirco BSD for a HEP BSD build. image (resized).jpg
A NOS POTO playfield for a HEP POTO restoration.
image (resized).jpg
A cpr Centaur that I started working on last year. It will be going in the special white and black Centaur
image (resized).jpg
On this one I have replaced the orange roll over inserts with red ones. Mostly for looks but it also got rid of the gummed up zones previously in place.
There was some minor chipping during that process which is most filled with clear now but this is what I will be working on during the process.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgThe Centaur is sanded and prepped. At this stage it needed very little attention. Mostly just flattening the insert roll overs.
After I sand them all I will clean them.
0D1EFD1B-A8B3-4DE9-89D9-0F0835784E6E (resized).jpeg058FF24A-8E3B-4EA9-9B07-7A05BA4A2BC2 (resized).jpeg920928FB-89F8-44DB-824E-A27C08890CC0 (resized).jpegNow for the Mirco BSD.
When it came in it looked good and now that it has cured a while the inserts edges have had the clear settle within them.
I don’t like a perfectly flat playfield.
I do like a perfectly flat cabinet.
I can easily achieve either but you see a lot more complaints about games playing differently or too fast with overly slick and flat playfields so it is something I have gotten away from the last couple years.
It looks impressive stand alone but for the purpose of a replacement part it has proven to be less than ideal.
That being the case I want it flatter and slicker than this though.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgIf you don’t have a good understanding of painting,sanding clearing polishing etc it can be hard to see the logic in reclearing a playfield that is too thick or has a clear issue.
The reason that method works best in these cases is because by knowing you are going to recoat it you can freely cut it down much more aggressively to help true the surface.
If polishing 800 grit is about as aggressive as you can go to start and you will need to graduate up to a minimum of 1500 gt before buffing.
When reclearing with care you can start as aggressive as 320gt and work up to 600 or 800gt.
This ability to use coarser sandpaper allows you to cut the issues down not simply round them off or out.
Much more material is removed so a reasonable recoat will shore it back up and flow out without overdoing it.
This recoating will be with a product I know well and can work with eliminating the unknowns of the previous final finish although it will still be under there just much less of it making it a filler coat of sorts.
A first pass over the BSD with 320
DAB58C2C-28C3-4A2A-88E9-658F849FF325 (resized).jpeg
Just lightly you can already see the target zones within the current finish.
F29E63B0-77A1-4236-A181-73CE9DF3DBB1 (resized).jpeg526E7CE1-A49C-43DE-9E26-C85B2A486F54 (resized).jpegF296A509-61C1-4342-BB4F-331A9A1B9354 (resized).jpegDB820ADA-D1FC-4D73-A457-F70FC510ACB1 (resized).jpeg02780772-A932-4ABD-A0B6-DC84708F8525 (resized).jpegAA2BD93B-0DB9-478C-AC34-13C7937842AD (resized).jpegNow graduating up in grits 500
CD9A1E71-BFFA-4A80-82F3-25DFC4A7A64E (resized).jpeg
The playfield starts truly leveling out.
28FFDEAF-4E84-4794-A075-F9432F9DDFE3 (resized).jpeg06F67601-6B46-4AB1-9BF1-9557CFF98B99 (resized).jpegACEBFB42-3968-4367-9E9E-CCE0A3780F35 (resized).jpeg41FD20BC-207E-4393-AB3B-E93D0D1785AA (resized).jpeg6844D791-1CD1-41E1-8128-939B63CAF4E4 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpg
The reason we see less insert issues on these initially is that they have almost zero top coat protection or build. image (resized).jpg
The inserts do pop and move just like repros but with no surface material to move or crack it is just much less obvious. image (resized).jpg
A playfield like this is so fragile to start with it can only get so much prep prior to the initial clear application.
It would take very little to cut right into that art and recreation of that art is not an easy job so we must tread lightly.
A quick cleaning. image (resized).jpg
Then a careful scuffing with scotchbrite.
image (resized).jpg
Just that process alone exposes some insert touch ups needed.
Can you imagine how this playfield would wear with use if left as is?
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from Pinballer73:Chris, when are you relocating to Australia?
I wish I could looks beautiful there.
Got a clear down on three playfields
The Radical BSD and POTO
Went light on the POTO because playfields of that era and that gold ink can be more fragile.
BE6AB18A-6457-41E5-AE0F-9786BD14781F (resized).jpeg3B1C669A-F69D-4BB1-89D5-81DA5A65C555 (resized).jpeg5A38A40D-884F-482F-94A4-2C251F715775 (resized).jpegC62BF69C-F2C7-40C4-BE26-4AE7B70B6299 (resized).jpegPlayfields cleared yesterday have dried overnight
POTO was lightly cleared only because I need to double check and likely create some holes and dimples.
Also flooding it with clear could have caused it to lift the art.
Now with a intermediate coat down I can handle it more aggressively without worrying about doing any damage.
The light reflections highlight the many insert edges and screened color stacks that need to be smoothed in and filled during the future rework sessions.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgThe Radical was coated a bit heavier and will likely only need one more session to be ready to use.
If I were looking to make it perfectly flat maybe two more but I try to focus on what creates the best total package verses just what looks good in pictures or sitting on the stand. This means not overdoing it although that is very tempting sometimes.
image (resized).jpg
The main needs for this playfield will just be elimination of the ball dimples and divots image (resized).jpg
And sealing up the open insert gaps and wear.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgThe BSD should be all set after it cures a couple weeks and is then sanded and polished.
The inserts have flattened out to a reasonable level with the aggressive sanding and reclearing.
That will further improve once final sanded and polished.
If wanting to go completely flat another session of sanding and clearing instead would do that if preferred.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgPlayfields just cleared are placed on the rack in a safer environment so they can cure for a while
0D999E1F-FD5A-48C4-ACD9-E8C4179F0375 (resized).jpeg6FF26E5F-7303-45A7-9239-6A2E23676D53 (resized).jpegAE7E8763-34FA-4BBD-843C-508BFFEF1137 (resized).jpegEFA6668E-C68F-4EB5-9455-E546650A4898 (resized).jpegHi Chris, what do you concider long enough for the clear to cure? There is a lot of discussion on pinside about clear not being cured on the JJP playfieds.
Quoted from Stokoloog:Hi Chris, what do you concider long enough for the clear to cure? There is a lot of discussion on pinside about clear not being cured on the JJP playfieds.
Depends on what the playfield issues are and what I am trying to accomplish.
If doing older more weathered and worn playfields the clear needs to set longer than doing a new one because those older playfields will be more prone to clear absorption.
I like to let them set at least a week between sanding and reclearing over my own work and two weeks before sanding and final polishing as minimums.
Since I am building the very playfields I am reworking I use timelines that I have found to be the best fit for me and that assembly process.
If there is no hurry then anything longer than that is perfectly fine as well but everyone uses different products and processes based on their timelines and materials so it doesn’t really mean that would apply to anyone else.
Quoted from Elicash:I will be interested to know if the Mirco BSD playfield has accurate holes and dimples or if you will need to rework this step.
Me too. We will see.
I have a non drilled and dimpled NOS I will be throwing into the mix as well so I will definitely check the Mirco when I do the NOS drilling and dimpling.
STTNG is fully dialed in and playing great. Not an easy game to say that about.
One thing I had forgotten about it is just how smooth some of the shots were.
Definitely a game much like Shadow where the theme might hold the game itself back a little in some people’s eyes.
Really happy with this one
I have booked the pick up so it is time to pack it up and make room for something else.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from High_End_Pins:Playfields just cleared are placed on the rack in a safer environment so they can cure for a while[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Wow, that rack of PFs is quite a sight!
Quoted from ToucanF16:Wow, that rack of PFs is quite a sight!
That rack of playfields has got your name all over it
Packing the STTNG.
First a blanket and remove the backglass. CBED73FD-8048-4714-8122-7706AD539B61 (resized).jpeg
Now a screw in the lamp panel catch to insure it won’t come open and wear a spot in the backglass. F959C939-2809-4AF1-A9AE-CF50A4B12FEB (resized).jpeg
Now a piece of craft paper between the head and blanket and wrap the head. 52E2946C-A96E-4C93-BD58-277B4A6A6D96 (resized).jpeg
C254D8BA-45ED-4EF9-812A-57FDFEAFC3C2 (resized).jpeg
Next folded up terry cloth towels placed between the head and blanket/rails A6C65947-1DF2-45B4-87CF-F1EDF122191E (resized).jpeg
03D693DC-F00E-4D6F-84F8-0F07BFE80ABB (resized).jpeg
Now another blanket
5008F712-A37A-4B2F-AB93-67317A5DC39B (resized).jpegNext a little clear tubing cut to slide over the latch. I try to keep reassembly and set up to a minimum for the recipient.
This makes sure the latch can’t dig into the top plate.
5E97B8B9-1403-4BBF-924F-F0DCE32C4915 (resized).jpeg
779D8725-23E1-4DEF-AC8D-8A4551C838E8 (resized).jpeg
Secured with low tack tape EC47645F-64E5-47B1-95A7-8C8B2A011198 (resized).jpeg
Now the head is shrink wrapped tight to the body.
8065882D-E397-4AB1-ADEF-2DFED8B1D531 (resized).jpeg
Then paper is placed and shrink wrapped from the back. The idea is to make sure no shrink wrap touches the cabinet because it could print it if temperatures fluctuate too much. E74DBBE2-B1B0-4FD6-9317-BFC8321A6599 (resized).jpeg
Legs removed. 2C76B637-5FF0-413A-86FD-89789AA42F1C (resized).jpeg
Legs are individually rolled into a blanket then shrink wrapped.
A11C1A53-D33E-40A1-AF2F-D70531AC02ED (resized).jpeg
69F3BBC3-3542-493E-BB61-209AC894DB2E (resized).jpegD5C03CF7-0C64-4A28-A99B-979BEC3FC957 (resized).jpeg67698937-F785-4777-99AE-EFED0CB231E6 (resized).jpegB621C048-8E6F-4AD3-91FD-AB4F32C8B7E7 (resized).jpegQuoted from High_End_Pins:Now for the Mirco BSD.
When it came in it looked good and now that it has cured a while the inserts edges have had the clear settle within them.
I don’t like a perfectly flat playfield.
I do like a perfectly flat cabinet.
I can easily achieve either but you see a lot more complaints about games playing differently or too fast with overly slick and flat playfields so it is something I have gotten away from the last couple years.
It looks impressive stand alone but for the purpose of a replacement part it has proven to be less than ideal.
That being the case I want it flatter and slicker than this though.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Can you explain how a cleared playfield plays too fast ? This is the case with my Funhouse ( early run mirco) it feels like the ball skates on the playfield . I have other cleared playfields without this issue. Hsa and Peter from Germany ( forgot his co name)
Now the game is loaded and taken to the warehouse where it is placed on a custom built pallet.
C752DE38-80B6-4E00-8B60-0DC00D830CF4 (resized).jpeg
Will further pack it later but now what to do with the empty spot.
46B5E0D1-707D-4B86-BB69-2E3675E7D4CC (resized).jpeg
Radical cabinet moves out it is destined for more teardown then the paint shop
FF78AADA-091D-4F6D-A8F0-5248EF9654F1 (resized).jpeg
Prototype Whirlwind moves in the cabinet is ready as are all parts so it can be reassembled.
C342C362-E212-4FDA-AE43-50EB5B6B2C10 (resized).jpegQuoted from mollyspub:Can you explain how a cleared playfield plays too fast ? This is the case with my Funhouse ( early run mirco) it feels like the ball skates on the playfield . I have other cleared playfields without this issue. Hsa and Peter from Germany ( forgot his co name)
I think playfields that are too flat and slick offer too little resistance and the ball just skids all around aimlessly.
Most of us are used to playing worn in games so all shot lines develop a bit of a path or groove. Kind of like how land developed paths for water to run when it rains.
Perfectly flat playfields eliminate that and make the game play more random.
The difference in factory playfields(pre the over clearing trend) is that the coating was thin enough for those grooves to wear in quickly. The overly cleared or hardened playfields and low use home environments are making it much harder for these game to gel back together IMO.
A game can absolutely be rebuilt or restored to play just as well if not better than original but it needs careful attention paid even when you are in the paint booth.
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Me too. We will see.
I have a non drilled and dimpled NOS I will be throwing into the mix as well so I will definitely check the Mirco when I do the NOS drilling and dimpling.
Me too, I have a Mirco BSD playfield also laying waiting for me to get time to begin the teardown and swap.
Time to assemble the prototype Whirlwind playfield.
One thing that is very important to me on a job like this is that the playfield does not out shine the original cabinet.
In order to do that the clear is dialed back and the polishing is as well.
Doing that gives it a more factory texture and appearance but still has all the benefits of the additional clear application.
I want it to look more like a survivor than a well restored or remanufactured game given its prototype status.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgWanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
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Charlotte, TN
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