Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992
Airborne
Capcom, 1996
Alien (Heighway Pinball)
Heighway Pinball, 2017
Black Knight
Williams, 1980
Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993
Centaur
Bally, 1981
Centigrade 37
Gottlieb, 1977
Champion Pub
Bally, 1998Wiring the STTNG playfield is just about complete all assemblies are now on plugs. image (resized).jpg
I will be installing the cannon lasers
image (resized).jpg
Instead of soldering direct to the motor lugs
image (resized).jpg
I solder in a pigtail with short/motor leg protection
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgThe STTNG cabinet is ready for the playfield.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from wesman:Haha! Dog looks good!
Beer....looks better! How was the fudgical? (Gonna have to look for that in my area!)
Fudgecile was great.
Tasted like a tootsie roll but much easier on the teeth 
STTNG playfield is in the cabinet.
image (resized).jpgSTTNG lives.
image (resized).jpg
The clear guides with purple bulbs looks to have worked well.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgThere is one brand new FH lower that has a hole punched through the floor.
It has been replaced with an undamaged one
I would give it away but it is probably easier to saw it up and throw it in the dumpster.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgHave you ever used some of the post light ups around the slings and such? I put them on the purple posts on TF and they really make the purple pop. Speaking of these - https://www.cometpinball.com/4-SMD-6-3V-LIGHTED-POST-LIGHT-p/mtxpost.htm
Chris, what's your preference for dealing with the rubber boot on prop rods? It's usually chewed up and worn away. The different liquid rubber products out there I don't know if they actually would get the same elastic feel and thickness as the factory pieces..
Quoted from flynnibus:Chris, what's your preference for dealing with the rubber boot on prop rods? It's usually chewed up and worn away. The different liquid rubber products out there I don't know if they actually would get the same elastic feel and thickness as the factory pieces..
Spoke to Terry at Pinball Life and he had the yellow boots made for the lockdown receivers but he said he had no plans on making them for the prop rod, says you have to make too many and it wasn't a big seller. I tried dipping a few but the cans don't last once you open them so unless you do a bunch at a time it's not practical.
Quoted from flynnibus:Chris, what's your preference for dealing with the rubber boot on prop rods? It's usually chewed up and worn away. The different liquid rubber products out there I don't know if they actually would get the same elastic feel and thickness as the factory pieces..
For my restores I use yellow plastidip and I get the factory look, feel, and thickness. I highly suggest it.
To address the keeping of plastidip, I pour it in a Mason jar for canning things and then add a plastic bag over the top before I seal. The chemicals separate for lengthy storage but you can mix them up again.
Quoted from Kawydud:Have you ever used some of the post light ups around the slings and such? I put them on the purple posts on TF and they really make the purple pop. Speaking of these - https://www.cometpinball.com/4-SMD-6-3V-LIGHTED-POST-LIGHT-p/mtxpost.htm
I have they are cool on some games. On The STTNG there is already a lot to fish under the slings because of the cannons and lasers but it would definitely be a good fit theme wise.
Quoted from flynnibus:Chris, what's your preference for dealing with the rubber boot on prop rods? It's usually chewed up and worn away. The different liquid rubber products out there I don't know if they actually would get the same elastic feel and thickness as the factory pieces..
I like to clean and reuse the originals and use the plastidip in the worse cases but it is definitely not the same as the factory sleeve.
Wish they would make them.
Long day at the warehouse. Didn’t make as much progress as I had hoped but I did manage to get all the wood cut and one game crated.
It was like 95 or so today.
I made a floor jig to support the plywood as I cut it.
DFD97162-7A98-4D44-AB4D-08458B24181F (resized).jpeg
It was a lot of cutting.
9E61078E-49A4-4D1D-96FE-529512393E0D (resized).jpeg
All the sides,floors and lids.
1DC33CAE-D0CE-426C-8753-80BEFA76C6EE (resized).jpeg
One crated.
9EB085C7-6B7D-4496-902B-7585FE3765BD (resized).jpegSTTNG progress
The cannons are a chore.
The wiring is not worth reusing. They actually have the lamp portion powering the coilD7A98EC1-FFE3-4BAF-9D2B-27A461835F93 (resized).jpeg
The metal on these even when nice is not topside quality. 2620AB39-C9B8-4065-AF32-CCEEE32E63AF (resized).jpeg
I have nickel plated spares
21B1DD47-4670-4879-BD71-7537FD892BEC (resized).jpeg1C2DF595-C80B-4CD7-BBE1-CD25DC12F0DF (resized).jpeg1507155C-E3D1-4B87-A347-F26009726141 (resized).jpegNormally I would just make my own harnessed but in my STTNG bin I found a nice premade set. F94118C9-0B7B-41F8-9653-629638B37715 (resized).jpeg
92B8728B-52B7-4F3C-9E85-5342808B0524 (resized).jpeg
Now to install for a smooth operation.
First a wire brush is chocked into the drill and run through the turret housing. 3F80B09E-3E03-4BE2-9A6D-4F4600DB361B (resized).jpeg
Then a red scotch brite is used to smooth the cannon shaft.
70D6547C-23E1-409B-B048-3AB0C71662EF (resized).jpeg
After that some 3 in 1 oil is lightly applied.
060D542C-74AF-4487-AD4E-057B13B392B6 (resized).jpeg
2E9136CB-C3E8-49F3-A2B4-6D1D5C113647 (resized).jpeg
Now it will easily seat and rotate even without the power of the motor.
4586245E-AD13-4B97-A8DF-FE8E98929737 (resized).jpeg3B31E4DD-A6B8-470C-802B-1C2B94816043 (resized).jpegQuoted from High_End_Pins:Long day at the warehouse. Didn’t make as much progress as I had hoped but I did manage to get all the wood cut and one game crated.
It was like 95 or so today.
I made a floor jig to support the plywood as I cut it.
[quoted image]
It was a lot of cutting.
[quoted image]
All the sides,floors and lids.
[quoted image]
One crated.[quoted image]
Try getting a piece of 3/4" thick insulation foam board. You can lay the plywood on top of that and make a cut a little deeper than the plywood. 100% supported and lightweight, you could also snap the foam in 1/2 or 1/4's for easy storage.
Quoted from Langless28:Try getting a piece of 3/4" thick insulation foam board. You can lay the plywood on top of that and make a cut a little deeper than the plywood. 100% supported and lightweight, you could also snap the foam in 1/2 or 1/4's for easy storage.
I do exactly the same, except I have a 2 inch thick foam insulation 4x8 I use for plywood cuts with a circular saw. Works great!
Quoted from AUKraut:I do exactly the same, except I have a 2 inch thick foam insulation 4x8 I use for plywood cuts with a circular saw. Works great!
I also have a 2" foam board for cutting plywood... never thought about snapping it into quarters for easier storage. I like the idea as I'm always moving a ton of stuff to get to it when I need it.
Quoted from kcZ:I also have a 2" foam board for cutting plywood... never thought about snapping it into quarters for easier storage. I like the idea as I'm always moving a ton of stuff to get to it when I need it.
Just duct tape the backside on 3 folds so it folds up and down easier too.
Quoted from Langless28:Try getting a piece of 3/4" thick insulation foam board. You can lay the plywood on top of that and make a cut a little deeper than the plywood. 100% supported and lightweight, you could also snap the foam in 1/2 or 1/4's for easy storage.
Thanks. Sounds perfect I will definitely do that.
STTNG is getting close. I forgot what a monster this game is to go through.
New plastics installed.
CBA70DC2-7D3E-4D93-B7ED-006F94747D13 (resized).jpeg4591CB49-D2BC-4BD4-92A7-FD10CBF81B57 (resized).jpeg31A39D30-8AB5-4670-A3E2-52BB366EB899 (resized).jpeg94832D5D-657D-4B70-A415-885A10188701 (resized).jpegB7541A95-8D79-4D82-9054-78D03794CE6E (resized).jpegF26E8246-F22F-4839-8FDD-1B7E026BAA29 (resized).jpegWrapping up the final trim details for the STTNG so they can dry will I do the remaining ramp
Gun and lock bar are prepped F55C222E-E2C4-4896-BCDA-BFF3480B5A12 (resized).jpeg
Based in the pearled black this includes the attachment bolts and hardware.
BCADED9E-1653-49C3-B104-A11E51C2DFA5 (resized).jpegDA035D9A-1D3D-4F71-93F7-0083F299F153 (resized).jpegNext is the ship on the Delta ramp.
It is a pretty lifeless color B6DF1F4C-01B8-4788-B093-8399945BD337 (resized).jpeg
I mix a good match for it then pearl and metalize it so it remains in the same color family but is more enhanced and appropriate for something in space.
09BF4013-D19C-46FC-B3BA-F52F0A62FB6C (resized).jpeg
After plastic etching that phase is frosted on there
0CD988E6-4FA8-4B21-BE48-E950B8105BE8 (resized).jpeg
Then to make it look a little darker on the front face as if it is a little more weathered it is flecked with a darker gray
FA894BAB-8B27-4E03-BEFE-55CADCE02B89 (resized).jpeg
After that it is lightly frosted over once more
6D8F0EBD-468D-4D69-9631-6C41B31E1C43 (resized).jpeg
Now it is done and can be installed.
9CA1AD30-8DAE-4EA0-AB9C-2266D18BD7AA (resized).jpeg7F80044A-2EB9-4026-B949-6F4E23A7BB5F (resized).jpegQuoted from High_End_Pins:Prepped the new borg ship
Finish it already . . . resistance is futile.
Another great restore Chris!
Quoted from High_End_Pins:Quick trip across the border.
Does this mean they are illeagal in certain states? Just curious as i thought it was just Canada in north america that couldnt buy them.
Quoted from Stretch7:Another great restore Chris!
Does this mean they are illeagal in certain states? Just curious as i thought it was just Canada in north america that couldnt buy them.
Local laws vary quite a bit.
Sometimes county to county minutes apart.
Quoted from Stretch7:Another great restore Chris!
Does this mean they are illeagal in certain states? Just curious as i thought it was just Canada in north america that couldnt buy them.
It varies a lot. They are pretty lenient on the 4th around here but in order to buy anything more than a sparkler or something you have to go to SC. We are just 15 minutes from the state line.
Even at that though we just go with fountains and things that look cool but stay grounded.
Gets way too hot and dry around here to safely do much else.
We cooked the fillets first because we need the whole griddle for the tomahawk ribeye
7EFEA8C4-4CC4-44C2-9249-88B71B6F5032 (resized).jpegCurtis has his Action Bronson 700004C7F91F-EBB3-49D1-8B13-2E0FCF37C3CE (resized).jpeg
I go with the lighter drinking Red Oak
583A0CF6-2E09-4DBB-8B19-BC68359AEB4E (resized).jpeg
Check the tomahawk 6A66FFB2-0A6B-4F07-9E5E-2B7BD5EB9586 (resized).jpeg
Got it to just about 120 and pulled it off
Don’t want to over cook a big piece of meat like this because as it rest it cooks itself a little more.
EC2A4A26-CF00-4AA0-8F37-F86BF449158E (resized).jpeg
Turned out great 4C89B229-AEC3-4466-BB6B-5A4A7F1E579C (resized).jpeg
Maverick could not be happier. 6FFAA373-99E7-4808-A4CE-A489400EA548 (resized).jpeg
We just did beat the rain.
image (resized).jpg
I am really glad to see it though because it will make tonight’s fireworks a bit safer.
Now for dessert
French toast sticks
0DB9110E-0858-419D-A008-C5AB8B8DA113 (resized).jpeg
Ice cream9D53582F-5DFC-4291-BE99-9E1AF4F743FF (resized).jpeg
The captains fruit
B0253385-375F-4B63-8653-E09DE76B6A41 (resized).jpeg
Whip cream2FABD536-59B8-46C0-92F4-E3DF7CABD207 (resized).jpeg
Chocolate and almonds.
82B4F66F-6B75-4C3F-997E-0F0F00BA4137 (resized).jpegWanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
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Matthews, NC
Leduc, AB