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OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
Curtis got his workout done today. I am not going to add these everyday but I want to keep him motivated early on in the process.
Knowing he has an audience really seems to help.
Today was HIIT(high intensity interval training)we have to be a little careful with his cardio so it doesn’t zap any of his potential muscle gains but right now we are just attacking the situation from all angles so we can build a baseline of fitness and consistency.
HIIT means you work for a set time all out and get a brief rest between exercises.
In this case we use a 1 minute on 15 second off formula.
25 rounds which equals roughly 30 minutes
Gym boss timer takes the guess work out of it
[quoted image]
Battle ropes
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Strength band curls[quoted image]
Jumping jacks [quoted image]
Sumo squats with 50lb kettlebell
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Kettlebell swings with 25pounder
[quoted image]
5 rounds and 30 minutes later. [quoted image]
Really proud of him today it was hot and it was tough but he never quit. He has definitely earned his rest recovery day tomorrow which is equally important.
[quoted image]

yeah buddy!! I know I'm a few days behind but keep at it!

Quoted from FatPanda:
yeah buddy!! I know I'm a few days behind but keep at it!

Curtis is sticking with it.
Has not missed a day yet.
Today he had his first 500 calorie HIIT session!!.
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Parts have arrived for my STTNG and LOTR projects.
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This looks interesting.

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OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
This looks interesting.

Very different then the original and there's no plastic/film for the windows?

Quoted from meSz:
Very different then the original and there's no plastic/film for the windows?

Yes got green ones.

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OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
Yes got green ones.[quoted image][quoted image]

actually like that better then the original

NOW I finally understand how you get that crisp clean line at the bevel at the bottom of the cabinet! I'm fascinated by the sanding method you use for trimming decals, never even heard of this method. But I'm curious, you do the sides and then the front, no problem there, but when you sand the front, you don't have a problem with the sides wanting to peel off? I'll assume you do it at a certain angle so it's not an issue.

I seem to recall that you clear some of the cabinets after the decals are done. Have you ever had a bad reaction with the graphics on the decals and the clearcoat?

Quoted from NYP:
NOW I finally understand how you get that crisp clean line at the bevel at the bottom of the cabinet! I'm fascinated by the sanding method you use for trimming decals, never even heard of this method. But I'm curious, you do the sides and then the front, no problem there, but when you sand the front, you don't have a problem with the sides wanting to peel off? I'll assume you do it at a certain angle so it's not an issue.

Yes no issues with the peeling. I always sand everything long ways so the front and back corners are sanded in the up and down position.

Quoted from Robotworkshop:
I seem to recall that you clear some of the cabinets after the decals are done. Have you ever had a bad reaction with the graphics on the decals and the clearcoat?

I will only do that if the finish of the decals is suspect. That would be something like too dull or too shiny. Not confident in the durability.
When done it is a process like painting plastic since that is basically what I am doing.
I test a cut out portion of the decal first to gauge if it is going to be possible or not.

Made some progress on my LOTR project.

I needed to install a shaker motor and power blades
Throwing them in is easy enough but a sloppy mess. 7C05F9CB-2D4D-4A4E-8E01-73D809C0F5B8 (resized).jpeg

There were a few things I saw that could clean it up and make the install cleaner.

First of all I know I am going to install an interactive lamp panel7C60ECEB-1035-4AD3-A67F-98B7CC98A10F (resized).jpeg

That means I can remove the ballast and associated parts for the fluorescent light tube.
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Those out of the way out of them I can use some wiring for other things like the power blade inverter
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Mostly I need part of this wiring It was the 120 tap for the light AC0D8EE2-40E5-492F-ACF8-EFB0C72B854A (resized).jpeg
That was going to the transformer meaning it is switched or powered on with the rest of the gameFB98B34E-1347-47DF-9052-C02085359197 (resized).jpeg
The inverter has an on off switch and as sent(no instructions no plugs fit anything on the game and the ones provided are already coming apart)the kit is a guessing game. So I map it out.

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I combine the power cord for the inverter with the transformer mate of the removed fluorescent light. F3FE8F47-C236-47C9-86F3-8DCDC6639409 (resized).jpeg
This is now the power for the power blades17F9B2E0-D471-43C2-91F5-BA305F6EC667 (resized).jpeg
Run the rest as neatly as possible and secure everything.

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Playfield wiring. Is complete and it is placed in the cabinet.

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The powerblades stick very poorly. There is little adhesive to hold them on so as a result these are already peeling back image (resized).jpg
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I will combat this with carpet tape.

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This should hold them hopefully.
The idea of these is very cool but the set I received was not well put together.
Wrong plugs,no instructions and very little adhesive or tape to hold them on.
This game needs to go to CA and I can just imagine the disappointment someone would have when they unpack it and see the blades peeling off. These didn’t even make it overnight in a climate controlled space.
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OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
Wrong plugs,no instructions and very little adhesive or tape to hold them on.

I installed them in my Met; looks like my adhesive had more surface area than the ones you are installing. If the wiring is still ribbon cables connecting to a power box, I can send you some photos on how they should be wired in.

Quoted from Dallas_Pin:
I installed them in my Met; looks like my adhesive had more surface area than the ones you are installing. If the wiring is still ribbon cables connecting to a power box, I can send you some photos on how they should be wired in.

Thanks. I believe I have it figured out.
I had seen other post with them installed and it looked as if the kit was much better put together than the one I received.
After waiting two weeks for it I didn’t have time or patience to complain.

Time to start prepping the White and black Centaur for the final paint scheme tweaks and clear.

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As I sand I am looking for hard edges and heavy clear gathering around the stencil art The last color is black and that will ride the highest and be most prone to breaking through during the leveling process.
The halos from on color stacking on top of the other is just part of the stencil process but as a high end painter it is not something I can live with.

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Now sanded I can start to tighten the stenciling up

First hit some white areas of concern E77E000A-9D4B-4A95-96AE-873EB452DB31 (resized).jpeg
Now lay it out to stencil again 53458767-DBCC-493F-BF6A-D2A570F40BA2 (resized).jpeg

First stencil is placed just to get a locator or x in place
This just gets peeled back off unless there were needed repaints.
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Then the next stencil is placed. 6E57CA37-68F8-477D-A79E-A484C25E1950 (resized).jpeg

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Now to catch the concerns snd further dial in the scheme on the lower.
Silver tighten then masked. 76BF20DB-6B2C-4DE6-876B-5C0FCD8BFC24 (resized).jpeg
Now black. 35E9D5E1-D19A-4224-88D2-7C779011C0E4 (resized).jpeg

Next is the shading in the letters.
This is a multi step multi color process that takes a lot of different passes to get in order v
None of this shading will be either the straight black nor the silver used on the cabinet stenciling but a variety of those two colors mixed in different ratios to get the effect with skilled application.

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Lower is now unmasked and looks very close to my vision of it.
Should come together well once cleared.

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Looks amazing! Laying down my first stencil soon; excited, scared and nervous. Your results look amazing; if mine come in at least at 10% of yours, I’ll be happy! As always, thanks for sharing!

Same process on the head.
I put the shading into the. Skull.

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Pretty comfortable with that for another clear application. Could be final or might be revised a little more but too much work done right now not to lock it down and protect it.
As can be seen the fades change in the light.
The eyes are not straight red but a faded black and silvered red for a Ruby like look.

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Wooooooow!! Holy mole!!!!

Cleared again. More to come for this one but getting there.

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Wow! Unbelievable work! Just amazing!

very nice work. especially with the transitions in the silver

Awesome work as always Chris!!! Seeing that fade now makes me wonder how all that white background would look fading from a light silver on top to a dark grey on the bottom, leaving the rest as you have it....hmmmm??

Quoted from AUKraut:
Awesome work as always Chris!!! Seeing that fade now makes me wonder how all that white background would look fading from a light silver on top to a dark grey on the bottom, leaving the rest as you have it....hmmmm??

I have thought about doing a whole cabinet that way.
Fading from bottom to top on the lower and top to bottom on the head.
Will probably do something like that eventually.

LOTR is almost done.
I ended up switching from white to black rubber and orange post.
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Got this to deal with and a few other odds and ends.

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LOTR is pretty much done. Just waiting for the Stern compatible colordmd to arrive tomorrow.
I had a small stock of Williams ones and could have just made a cable but why bother?

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Got all my prototype Whirlwind bits and pieces back from plating so I can probably start staging up to reassemble that. image (resized).jpg
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I am not planning on doing much of anything to the cabinet just a little corrosion and rust clean up.Maybe some minor touch ups but I don’t want to risk the special tags and notes since they have made it this long.

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I am going to sand and buff this stack of playfields. There are seven in total.
IpB CV(solo)
STTNG(HEP project)
TZ Mirco(Hep or sell)
TAF CPR(sell)
HG CPR(Hep project)
TOM Mirco(Hep project)
WW proto (Hep project)

Will start with the WW proto.

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OP
Quoted from High_End_Pins:
Parts have arrived for my STTNG and LOTR projects.

Where did that Borg ship come from? I think it looks great. Certainly better than my home paint job.

Quoted from Pahuffman:
Where did that Borg ship come from? I think it looks great. Certainly better than my home paint job.

Pinball Life but I think it was actually done by Matt at Back Alley

Sanding and polishing at a high level is a process and expensive.

I start with 500gt because I want to shape the clear not simply round it off
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Next 1000 gtC14E5CFA-9A62-4E8B-AB6C-8C6AC8E7A825 (resized).jpeg

Now things get more detailed and expensive.
These two sandpaper’s are about $2 per sheet so it is like sticking two dollar bills to the sander each time and it takes several sheets of these grits to work the fine scratches out.
Real world cost to sand and polish a playfield in materials alone is probably $40 and that is the final step after two or three separate sanding and clearing sessions plus whatever masking film,paper tape,adhesion promoters and base colors were used in the process.
Point being these are not $300 or400 clear coat jobs even at cost.
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Whirlwind prototype is sanded and polished.

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I was careful not to overdo it

As always Chris..... Very nice! So what brand of beer is today's episode brought to us by?? (iow what beer you having tonight)

Quoted from meSz:
As always Chris..... Very nice! So what brand of beer is today's episode brought to us by?? (iow what beer you having tonight)

This Thirsty Dog is having a Wulver

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After burning through quite a few $2 bills sanding was completed on all seven playfields. EFBBAAF1-523E-4F86-8989-10B256ADFC9E (resized).jpeg

TZ polished 209535EA-DD46-4A5A-96DD-C8E54952F984 (resized).jpeg
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STTNG polished
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IPB CV polished

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CPR HG polished

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Mirco TOM polished

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CPR TAF gold polished(has also been dimple drill corrected as well. Will be t nutted and listed for sale if you are interested )

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Bet that TAF sells quickly!

Always amazing work. I need a High Speed playfield,have a spare laying around that shop? lol

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HEP This Week

By High_End_Pins

5 years ago

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