(Topic ID: 225528)
Linked Games
Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992-
Airborne
Capcom, 1996
-
Alien (Heighway Pinball)
Heighway Pinball, 2017
-
Black Knight
Williams, 1980
-
Bram Stoker's Dracula
Williams, 1993
-
Centaur
Bally, 1981
-
Centigrade 37
Gottlieb, 1977
-
Champion Pub
Bally, 1998
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Matthews, NC
Ok now the final clear on the Whirlwind cabinet has flashed off a bit.
That means while it is still very fragile it is also skimmed over and dust resistant.
This is the perfect time to carefully untape it so the tape lines will soften and flow back into the non recleared areas.
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Removal at this time is crucial so the clear won’t bridge over the tape. 66D084D4-F81B-4B7E-9F1F-B434328B2FD4 (resized).jpeg
Unmasked example 282016BE-31B5-45A9-8B2B-83C36529EF09 (resized).jpeg
Fully unmasked head and lower.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgThe final gloss level of the clear on the Whirlwind cabinets will be more obvious tomorrow.
With the sun shining on it you can better see how vivid the colors are. image (resized).jpg
That gray is used instead of black.
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I really like the gray. It looks more active and realistic than the straight black would have and I chose the yellow orange for the logo because it kind of reminds me of the sun above the clouds.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from yfz450:If you don't mind me asking, where do you source new backbox lamp shields? I can use a set for my EBD.
Thanks,
J.
I got those from Swinks part of the shapeways store.
They are great.
https://www.shapeways.com/product/TNXKP3CPZ/bally-ss-pinball-2-globe-light-shroud-upgraded
Quoted from NYP:If you don't mind sharing, how do you clean the powder from the cabinet before you clear it again?
Blow it off with compressed air.
Wipe it down with solvents
Blow and a tack it off with a tack rag
Wipe it down once again with a tack rag no air.
Quoted from cosmokramer:So your final clearcoat is not sanded at all, the final finish is just sprayed pefectly and not touched?
That is correct.
Sanding and buffing a cabinet would ruin it by making it too glossy.
One of the many things that take much more effort on a 70’s and 80’s SS Bally is the coin door build.
This is just a sample of the many pieces it takes to assemble the door itself. There is more to it than that but this builds the basic door.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from cosmokramer:Good call...[quoted image]
I knew I had a picture somewhere and found it
12 years and probably 60lbs ago if I were to guess one less brother too 
I think it was just a year or two later that I really started taking my health seriously.
Brother was pretty troubled but had a good skill set as well.OCC_with_Sr (resized).jpg
It was difficult to get him to work when we worked together this pretty much sums it up but he was fun.Picture me saying "we need to strip that cabinet today"and this being the response 073 (2) (resized).JPG
Quoted from DylanFan71:Cool picture to have together. Sorry for your loss. I worked with my brother as well in our family business. He’s been gone almost eleven years. Leaves a very big hole.
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you Mike
Sorry for yours as well.The time spent not only growing up but also working together is unique for us and I think it makes that hole just a little deeper.
Quoted from Bakerman:I follow this thread all the time. So addictive and such fantastic work.
I mend, service and carry out minor renovation work full-time and seem to spend a great deal of time searching suppliers/web for parts, ordering them, unpacking and storing the parts, paying bills, creating invoices, etc. Given the huge amount of work that you get through do you do all of these tasks behind the scenes as well and only show us the juicy bits, or do you have help with the more mundane tasks?
Keep up the great work.
No help here.I do it all. Occasionally my wife will help me when she can but that is rare because taking care of our youngest son and the rest of us in general is a full time job.
In the past when I have had help or a helper it was more work and expense dealing with that than just doing everything myself.
I learned that it isn’t really profitable enough to pay someone for the limited things they could do to help and that they will just out pace me doing the easy stuff and that in turn backs me up with the harder task.
Now moved into the assembly room and checked against the original.
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I obviously am not trying to copy the original but I do want to copy the spirit of it and another thing I really wanted to do was make this reinterpretation of it pop a bit more colorwise.
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Always worth a look side by side.
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They at least look like they are close relatives.
I will definitely try to capture a decal install and the edge finishing when it comes back up around here.
I use a semi wet method that I learned long ago when cars would come in with large wood grain decals.
Dry was impossible and wet took too long before the panels could be reassembled.
Part of the reason I never fully capture it is because it is very involved and hands on making it tough to document as I go.
Quoted from Multiball33:I'm doing a door now for my EK, same door. Having a problem keeping the coin return flap staying in place after screwing the inner panel to the outer door skin? Is the coin return flap held in place only from the outer panel and coin housing drop box where they meet?
Thinking my inner panel might be slightly bent. Looks like the outer door skin should sit flush against the coin drop box.
Figured you would know. Any help or advice would be great!
[quoted image][quoted image]
That is a common problem and why these return flaps are often missing.
I place a small piece of squishy lockbar foam on the skin to keep it both in place but also still functional.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from PinballPimp:That came out SICK Chris... Glad I could help DESIGN the artwork for you! There is only SO MUCH DETAIL you can hold in a stencil paint mask and 4 colors is pushing it. LOVE IT!
PIMP
Definitely I could not be happier with it and you got it just about perfect on the very first revision.
Making a stencil that is truly useable and reinterpretation of screened art is what I think some people might not understand or appreciate about this job.
The factory screened art has tolerances far too small to ever mask and paint from scratch.
Coming up with a nice art package that is paintable is what makes it a challenge and anytime I have asked that of you you have been able to do it.
Quoted from lb1:The two major food groups in HEP's diet are clearly salmon and dark beer. Chris is possibly salmons' public enemy #1 at this point.
High quality breweries understand me.
Alaskan fish despise me.
It is tough spot to be in so I just keep working on these pins to take my mind off it.
Quoted from WolfManCat:I think Curt from Nirvana said it best.
"And its okay to eat fish,
Cause they don't have any feelings..."
Thats how I roll.[quoted image]
That’s a good looking fish right there.
Kurt probably wished they had salmon at grandpa joe’s since he couldn’t chew his meat too good.
I mean whatever meat they served with the mashed potatoes and stuff like that 
Sorry I am marooned on Goose Island right now.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from Calipindave:Chris, why go through the trouble of making a new harness for the EBD door. Was the old one pretty jacked up?
Dave
I like to use new wire because often especially on coin doors the original wires can have internal breaks.
Also it gives the ability to delete things no longer needed like coin lock out slam tilt individually wired coin switches.
Not to say I could not implement all those things but the more unnecessary things eliminated the cleaner the wiring and fewer possible issues or confusion to less knowledgeable.
Finally I can use clear tubing to avoid shorts,shrink tubing and extend the harness for neater routing.
Time to do the final polish on the EBD 2 playfield. image (resized).jpg
Also gives me a chance to highlight the difference in the straight clear and the matte clear.
Both had fully hardened in the cup.
Keep in mind that they both use the same hardner and the matte is actually the straight clear with a ratio of the matting agent added to it.
Straight clear.
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Matte clear.
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Side by side.
Both are reflective but the matte offers a little filtering notice how much harder it is to make out the 3M logo image (resized).jpg
That reflectiveness is what I think can be confusing to people not well versed.
Reflective does not always equal glossy.
The matte is the final finish on the special Whirlwind but it shows much cleaner because it is nowhere near as thick as the hockey pucks left over.
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Now that the paint shop is clearing out a little with the special Whirlwind cabinet out and EBD 2 playfield polished and removed I can finish the final details of the Dr Who playfield
Playfield is sanded.
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Cleaned D978EAEB-A9E0-496C-A50F-423F5DFF738A (resized).jpeg
There are just a few things left on it
Some black work is needed for the insert wear and an area near the flippers that had a post placed at some point.
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I place it on the light box to check the insert borders and do the cut out/masking. 1BD794DB-2303-44E3-A514-E34A6EF9ED19 (resized).jpeg
E4A2658D-9798-464E-9E67-5760692D6D68 (resized).jpeg
Then fully masked and painted.
7BD2CF8A-D0CD-4D7F-A975-856CB48BBFF5 (resized).jpeg85502ACD-D010-43D3-843F-B91F62A59452 (resized).jpegNow unmasked there are just a couple more details. Neither are easy or ideal to fix but can be made unnoticeable with a little effort.
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There is insert wear in the boot pictured
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The Drs coat needs to be a bit lighter. I can’t get it identical to what it once was so I will just try to make it look nice and natural. 4D62FF42-E664-42DA-A5D0-CCBB882144E0 (resized).jpeg
The boot and coat are masked as well as possible there are some almost microscopic details that can’t be cut around and they are then sprayed their appropriate colors or shades. 265BBF6A-B443-4CEA-8A08-C2CA5A8EF68A (resized).jpeg
Then unmasked.
Textures will make them look a bit off until cleared over. 44F54696-87DE-49A2-A285-3114D8FB48E3 (resized).jpeg
5B426DBB-4909-4E83-AB51-ED419A23E7D3 (resized).jpeg
Now ready for the final clear.
Final clear is sprayed.
While this cures I can work on other projects or other aspects of this project.
BB46EB82-89AB-4D9A-BC7B-F7C61A21BEF4 (resized).jpeg1F93587E-F37C-4F50-BA88-CFE7217A934E (resized).jpeg0F290B6B-6EF9-49AB-AAAB-4E795F17C45A (resized).jpeg12BD76A7-02F4-4401-BDE7-C7A4BA56A2F2 (resized).jpeg93DC5A46-3353-4DED-9182-A162386C14F7 (resized).jpeg7E83BA8F-FC7D-450F-8EF8-74DBE4626596 (resized).jpeg4E8B5BD6-46A0-48B0-84AE-33B2ADEABC84 (resized).jpegAAF31D45-1F50-4F00-A34D-E98979D514F6 (resized).jpeg597E1A92-5221-4F54-B69F-A596348BB0A9 (resized).jpegEBD 2 Cabinet is alive
All original displays work.
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Now I can start the playfield build up.
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I will need to do something about the apron.
This one is beat.
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I have a repro for it but the colors are off in comparison to my own cream color and their use of gold instead of yellow so I may have to rework that with my own paint and a pinrescue decal to bridge the gap on this project.The owner wants a close go original look. The repro is a much better and sturdier design than the factory so this should provide the best of both worlds although I do wish getting the apron with the original yellow would have been an option.
B13B965B-E6AF-4F42-B35A-D7CCFB92EDD9 (resized).jpegA0F3D71C-2D28-40D1-BD1F-7530A5C45EF3 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpg
The EBD 2 owner sent and request a playfield protector.
I have never installed one so I thought to check it over.
DDB9D8B6-4617-4B54-8C04-E111868A2CFD (resized).jpeg
What I find is that it really doesn’t line up nor look ideal for game play.
If I align one thing perfectly it throws something else off.
The large gap around the rollover in particular looks like a ball trap so I will skip using it
Just not comfortable with it nor would I want to inherit whatever complications it could bring.
4FD5A83A-FA01-4868-8BC0-BE53635E9205 (resized).jpeg5E7E83F7-0498-4159-832A-F2A648263781 (resized).jpeg7DE89333-2D90-4F53-9DEF-3579CFE25F25 (resized).jpegAE1B6D1D-36C9-4152-BA3A-03073511B717 (resized).jpegD2B5F1D0-CF62-4956-8BBD-6384A6B19197 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Aniraf:I’ve installed three of hem no and I haven’t seen any of them be that off. I’m kind of surprised.
Could be more off on this playfield than a factory version since it is a CPR.
The biggest thing I did not like the looks of was the large gap in front of and behind the insert rollover though. I could have worked with or trimmed some of the other spots for a better fit.
We start this week off with breakfast
Two boiled eggs
1 slice Sprouted grains bread
1 tablespoon of natural peanut butter
1 banana
A37A85A9-9C92-43F8-8B55-CB6CAE5A009C (resized).jpeg
The topside of the EBD 2 donor playfield is stripped. image (resized).jpg
This allows me to flip it over and start stripping the bottom side.
This will go a bit slowly because I will make sub assemblies and harnesses up as I remove the parts.
image (resized).jpg
The first parts to remove will be the largest starting with the seven drop target bank.
The EBD 2 target banks are rebuilt.
All now have nickel plated bottom brackets,color correct wiring,clear tubing,plugs and of course new drop targets.
Parts not plated were cleaned and or polished.
On things like the knock down bracket I don’t go overboard because to really tear it down would destroy the rubber grommets.
FB251BC2-4D31-49CB-87D2-52B76506E1E6 (resized).jpeg4646FAC4-F266-4BFF-BD21-9E88D7A25594 (resized).jpeg7B012063-9FF7-411A-A0EC-0646326D40EA (resized).jpeg32C01E6D-D70C-457F-B183-E81B04C64BB0 (resized).jpeg02292028-13CA-47D7-A50C-BC8914785EB5 (resized).jpeg4BB0BEB4-2DC4-4CE6-BDE0-3038C6C42582 (resized).jpegE4835227-2706-4646-A9FA-8860FC299589 (resized).jpegBEC48FDB-1979-48DA-81AB-96B3D0C2E0C4 (resized).jpeg19CE5879-CE13-4D3D-95A4-9702EF9E5245 (resized).jpegBD4AE175-2309-48D7-A858-B461CFE9B07F (resized).jpeg0CEBFE36-822F-41C6-AD2D-F5DC19E925D2 (resized).jpegThe special Whirlwind base game is rough in terms of the cabinet.
75F4EED1-8EF5-4A22-A386-48E5929C1C03 (resized).jpeg
8E46233C-7392-42CB-9692-FF3D6F263733 (resized).jpeg
There are some bright spots.
The playfield is nice and it is a true Diamond Plate version. image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
The only concern on it will be what lurks under The Cliffys. image (resized).jpg
I will be restoring this playfield though not replacing it.
Quoted from pintechev:Excited to see the WW finish up!
It is probably just getting started really.
I also need to work the Whirlwind prototype in the mix.
I am told this may possibly be Whirlwind #1
It is s strange dynamic where you want to keep one as original as possible and make significant cosmetic changes to the other.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from lurch:Careful. Lawlor might be watching. Dont need that again. Lol.
He will have to take it up with Kong.
IMG_5301 (resized).JPG
He is a bit hung over today though partied too hard with the guys from MB
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IMG_20140323_172926_030 (resized).jpg
Only thing he hates worse than having to deal with prototypes is detailing IJ Idols.I asked him nicely to help out but it was a no.
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Going with standard stainless trim on this game I feel like the paint job on the cabinet is enough on its own and the stainless and this shade of blue always work nicely together.
The replacement rails tend to run off the cabinet just a touch.
I mark them
230BBD2C-6F7C-4285-A484-8749C40E6243 (resized).jpeg
Then grind a radius to clean them up
Individually first. 2C704E81-7D65-49ED-9589-FFEB0D180935 (resized).jpeg
After that I clamp them together and do it with a lighter disc so they are smooth and perfectly matched. 50704D6E-6C78-4A15-AD80-6B22FB3F01F8 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Thrillhouse:Chris would you mind sharing how you were able to get the yellow standup targets on EBD to clean up so nicely?
I wiped them down with adhesive remover/cleaner .
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Then polished them by hand one at a time with buffing compound.
image (resized).jpgLooks like this week will be EBD 2 mornings and ??? afternoons.
That said I would like to tackle the EBD pop bumper mechs this morning.
This era pop bumper is pretty involved.
There isn’t anything special about it it is just that they cram so much on the switch.
One pop bumper has 8 wires
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Of those 8 wires 6 are off the harness and the other 2 just finish carrying the connection to the lamp socket
Also there are the diode and capacitor to work in there and there is very little room to work with.
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Cosmetically these are rusty.
image (resized).jpgI will do my best to note the differences and even then a production version will still have some other differences but I can just compare what is in front of me.
The most eye catching difference at a glance is the proto topper.
The chicken wire housing sits outside of the topper and the fan set forward within it. Mounted on a spacer of sorts.
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Sample game has the traditional topper.
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The translite s are both identical and the more rare cubs hat version.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgMoving down we get to the speaker panel.
The WW #1 has a few differences.
image (resized).jpg
The most obvious is the strange river on changes to the Super cellar door value.
"
The next is the color differences around the display framing
White and yellow
[att=4788697,1480771 caption="
The final is the speaker grills they are the circled W
image (resized).jpg
The sample game has the production colors and grills without the riveted changes of course.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgClosing out the head I see some minor things.
First the construction is different.
The lower plate is not joined as normal on the prototype. image (resized).jpg
This is normal on the sample game.
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Next on the prototype I can see where a lock hole has been plugs on the side of the head. This must have been a repurposed head from a previous game that used the side locking mech.
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Looking at the back of the head a couple more things show up on the prototype topper it has more venting image (resized).jpg
One of the coolest things on the prototype is this letter stapled to the back of the head.
image (resized).jpgOn to the outer cabinet.
Whirlwind #1 is a more vivid shade of blue and has no Williams script within the artwork.
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Sample does.
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Not much more to it on the lower.
Now for the playfield.
Whirlwind 1 prototype
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Not a whole lot but while it is clearly diamond plated it doesn’t say so.
Prototype has some different locations for lettering and post.
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Sample same area.
image (resized).jpgThe final topside difference seen is the lamp panel/plastic set blocks on the prototype are unfinished and it has the expected red board. Broken plastic too image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
By the looks of that they seem to have moved the blocks and panel forward.
I can see on the prototype location where the flasher dome could easily grab and break it.
image (resized).jpg
The sample has a larger gap built in.
image (resized).jpgNow we open the heads.
Prototype and sample have matching lamp panels nothing of note there except the serial tag on the prototype. image (resized).jpg
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Looking a little deeper the prototype has some differences.
Most noticeable is the rougher routing of wiring and makeshift hole. image (resized).jpg
Also I do not see the triac board. Could be under the topper?
The sample is in line with a production version and the triac is clearly visible.
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On the prototype all boards are tagged and match the prototype serial numbers.
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Quoted from ToucanF16:What are the new arrivals?
Spirit and BSD
Working on the EBD 2.
Has been a pretty uneventful week so far just tedious teardowns and wiring.
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I am just a few more steps away from finally freeing the harness from the old playfield.
Most parts have been made into sub assemblies
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If I want to make quick and easy visual references to direct me what goes where in terms of wiring I use paints and paint pens
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For example.
Switches
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Lamp sockets
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Coils
image (resized).jpgEBD 2 underside building.
Using regular bulbs in all the feature lamps because They won’t flicker or strobe.
Still using LEDs in the GI though.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgOur oldest son Curtis turns 21 tomorrow.
He has to work so we celebrate today.
What does he want to eat?
Steak
Tater tots
Cheese sticks
French toast sticks
Churros
Ice cream
Basically he wants to eat like he is still 10 
No problem
Steaks
Marinated over night after coating and vacuum sealing.
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Throw them on the grill
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Take them off
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Looking for medium rare. Looks good.
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Deep fry everything else. Curtis doesn’t care about healthy. He wants flavor !!
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He looks happy 9741657B-B8FE-4588-A29A-3F78B6345528 (resized).jpeg
Now for dessert
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Quoted from pinwiztom:What?!?
No Beer?
He is legal now.
Well almost, but no one here will tattle.
I think he had a bad experience in his late teens with some Bombay or something like that and the wife had to clean up the bathroom all night and that scarred him for life so he is already mostly done with drinking lol! 
1-21-19
It’s Curtis’s 21st Birthday!! 
He is still asleep and Maverick is also pretty tired after yesterday’s festivities and the games.
All were awesome despite the lousy officiating
Maverick knows this is the part of the day he will be anchored down and mostly ignored as I work on my projects so he knows how to make himself comfortable.
We hate to anchor him down but trust me it is for his own good. He gets into more shit than you could ever imagine. Nothing is safe,not a wire,zip tie,cardboard box,playfield. Nothing!
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Not too much left to do to my EBD 2 project.
I need to place the rubbers and plastics.
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I have a new plastic set and have polished and swapped the metal standoffs.
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One problem I see is that the clear plastics do not all match up. Most do but these do not. image (resized).jpg
That means my best bet will be to reuse the ones that do not.
Not my preference but it is most important that the plastics fit asince they are essentially ball guides than having them be perfectly clear.
The ones that do match up are placed.
These are doubled up since the repro s are thin.
image (resized).jpgThe playfield build is complete. image (resized).jpg
I thought to test the new apron out on the playfield before I make any changes to it.
It dawned on me during the build of the playfield that while the cabinet is cream colored this version of the playfield is definitely white.
As a result the repro apron actually looks great on there as is.
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I had a back up plan in place as well but I will save that for another project.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from lb1:Maverick looks like he’s half in some giant frog’s mouth.
I can definitely see that.
For some reason he likes to bury himself in layers of toys
As the day goes he slowly unpacks himself.
He knows it is getting close to party time!
The EBD 2 is finished.
Not sure if it will make it outside for final pictures because it has been pretty cold and mostly rainy here lately.
087D3D66-A7CE-4243-8949-0BEF3F868883 (resized).jpeg309E36F0-93C4-4E39-95A9-BBEE29D8D528 (resized).jpeg62ADE3FD-8427-48AF-941D-22C2220EEB74 (resized).jpeg6346DA0D-CAD5-45F5-9336-790960FB798F (resized).jpegA343334D-C0BB-466C-8D39-94CCA46A86E9 (resized).jpegMaverick has hopped out of the frog,unlatched and is ready to party.
Just imagine this ball being something you cared about or that was important. 
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Since Maverick hopped out of the frog I hopped in it .
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Curtis to infinity and beyond 18 years ago. If you have kids I just can’t tell you how quickly the time passes. Still can’t believe this guy is 21.
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Quoted from pinwiztom:Almost looks like its time for another haircut.
Yes. He goes on Thursday.
EBD 2 is all done.
Plays great.
Will be shipped without a backglass because the owner already has the replacement glass in hand.
Time to fold it up and make room for the next thing
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Really like putting the chocks on the back of these. They sit on the back so much better and steady.
EBD 2 Ready to pack and ship.
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I am officially done with EBDs well at least until another one comes in.
No telling when that might be. I do have a large amount of EBD parts that I can let go now if anyone is looking.
This includes a complete wired playfield
It is rough but complete.
Quoted from j_m_:read this and for some reason I immediately thought of this
You figured Curtis out quickly
We have our garage back !!!
Too cold to do anything outside and I lifted weights yesterday so that means cardio in the garage
We will do 1 minute intervals
Maverick is getting excited.
I think this is how he learned to be so aggressive with his toys. After watching me slam this,bounce that swing this throw that. He just thinks that is what you do.
8B2EF70B-A41B-439D-8E07-EB142EE515FC (resized).jpegQuoted from AUKraut:I call dibs on the Snickerdoodle!
Ok I saved it for you and ate some of the chocolate chocolate chip instead . Was good. image (resized).jpg
Quoted from lb1:Surely Maverick gets a taste of this delicious looking salmon?
Salmon drives our cat insane. She jumps on the table and nearly attacks us to get a piece.
Yes he does.
I eat 9 ounces ,wife has 6 and Maverick has 3.
Can’t get either one of the boys to touch it 
Loaded up all the EBD junk first.
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Taking it to the warehouse.
One challenge we face around here is that in order to go there we have to get Mr Marshall motivated to go with us as he can’t be left home alone even at 18.
Even though it is freezing cold he refuses to wear pants. He will just sit in the truck,rock and play his switch though while we unload it.
You have no idea what it takes to make even the most basic things happen around here some days
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Unloaded.
This is something that can be tough to describe about space but often times one single game can take two or three spots sometimes even more.
EBD is a good example.
In order to build the two nice games I ended up with three different carcasses essentially plus the two nice ones as well so EBD was a two customer paying job that took five spots up.
Now the aftermath.
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This is the case on most games take the Fathom picture as another example.
You have the game itself and then the replacement cabinet. Two spots one job.
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It makes it essential to have a true warehouse and good insurance.
EBD 2 is back at the warehouse.
I will pack that for shipping soon.
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I also need to inventory some new arrivals and unearth some new projects. That will have to be tomorrow though we have asked as much as we can of Marshall for the day.
We can head back home now and see what we can get into there instead.
Night shift clocks in. They are drinkers but they do good work 
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Looks like it is time to assemble that Dr Who finally.
I really need to do this to clear the way and shelves for all the other things that are brewing.
In between having so much clutter from the EBDs and this Dr Who in pieces for a good bit while I worked through the playfield it ties things up a bit.
All part of my work the room work the shop clean strategy.
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It is refreshing to have a little room to move again out here. image (resized).jpg
Almost have enough shelf space to start gutting the TSPP.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from LTG:He is a happy camper. Good for him.
LTG : )
Yes he is. We feel like his life is challenging enough so we will do ANYTHING it takes or we possibly can to make him happy.
Quoted from thepinballworks:I want to send you my CC so bad. Love all those pictures. Great work.
Thanks.
I just try to put things up here that are hopefully informative,entertaining and maybe even relatable.
Some of it is repetitive,some silly and some just fills the gaps between projects but it is all the reality of HEP so its stays true to that.
Nothing like seeing the Dr first thing in the morning. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Pre workout/lunch the goal is to get the cabinet together and up on four legs.
First step towards that goal is ground braiding.
This being a reused original cabinet it will be a bit easier.
image (resized).jpgGround braid path was mapped out with a silver marker.
I don’t copy the factory because I prefer something neater but I do make sure I accomplish the same task. 9E72C3D8-85E4-4B0A-A1C7-BC2981099063 (resized).jpeg
Fast forward it is braided and built.
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image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgI really need to free up some space at the warehouse.
I am going to take some pictures and if you see something you like or want text me at 704-351-2014.
I will start with playfields.
Most Have lamp sockets still attached.
I use them for diagrams when doing swaps do they have helpful notes or tracings I have multiples of some which is why I don’t need them all.
Medusa
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Joker Poker.
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Centaur.
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TAF1image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
TAF 2
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgTommy
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Huge lot of lockbars.
All mostly System 11,WPC,Bally solid state(or other early Bally)and widebodies. Conservative guess is that there are 30 and they are all decent or better because I throw the junk away yet it still accumulates. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Bally boards and displays.
Plenty more of these.
image (resized).jpgMore translites
Used Scared stiff(2)
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Used(cleaned very nice been saving it)FH
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Transformers signed.
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Cactus Canyon new probably NOS
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Mega Golf Ball Frenzy.
Multiples.
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One signed by the OCC cast.
image (resized).jpgThat’s it for now.
I don’t have a set price on anything this is just clutter to me and I hate clutter so text me with what you are specifically interested in and I will throw a number on it.
Quoted from cosmokramer:I cant wait to see the Bad Cats....Im putting together parts for one, Its my next project after TOM....
I am pretty excited about this one too.
I think I will be able to rework the original cabinet and art.
The orange gets a little faded towards the top of the backbox on both sides but really good for one of these.
No holes in the front either.
Playfield looks great for what it is. I am concerned about Mylar removal and clear interaction with the inserts though since it is System 11. Most like will attempt it though.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgI have some new cabinets brewing from a new source that just asked me to pay a very fair price and be a guinea pig. Can’t say no to that.
Pictures look very promising.
472CB281-BF80-4FA3-88D1-4AE96F02A40F (resized).jpeg66781FBD-C318-4852-98E2-F4B29083C0BD (resized).jpeg0ABB60A1-AFDB-4AAE-8479-1A94389B86C4 (resized).jpegA7C47301-CC1D-4640-A231-D748F065005D (resized).jpegQuoted from neemypeemy:Hi HEP, can you share where you got the Dr Who blades? Love them!
Yes Ma’am. I got those here
https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/dr-who
So far I traded a topper for beer
Sold a translite ,displays and lockbar for $250 total shipped.
I am quickly remembering why I just throw this stuff away 
I feel terrible just tossing it but at the same time it just isn’t even worth packing and shipping the stuff for these offers seriously.
If you are not prepared to spend $100 an item or buy in bulk do not text.
A whole king salmon cost $500 delivered I am not rich nor looking to get rich but please be realistic.
Quoted from meSz:LOL so true!!!
For the record.When it comes to feeling like Isaac Hayes this is my preference and expectation
The frustrations of yesterday made it essential that I get my workout in first thing this morning
I really appreciate the motivation. Had a great one.
If you are interested in ways to get stronger and you are new at it let me suggest a pyramid program
What this means is you start the workout with light weights and continue to add weight with each set until you can’t complete more than five reps then you start taking weight off with each set until you can complete fifteen reps.
Here is an example.
I do most of my lifting as part of a circuit I am no dedicated body builder I am just a guy that enjoys practical fitness.
I do not need to bench 300lbs and I do not need to run a marathon.
What I do need to do is be able to lift my own body weight,maintain muscle as I age and lose it naturally and being able to run up to five miles is reasonable.
Starting with something light
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20
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Then 40
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Then 50
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Then in reverse
Same thing with the barbell
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Finish with the rower 500 meters
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Results
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I get a lot of inquiries about this stuff so I hope it helps someone just as much as the pinball info.
In my adult life I have been as heavy as 255 and and a light as 168lbs so I understand the struggles of being both overweight and really too skinny.
Quoted from pzy:There's something comforting about an artisan like Chris having similarly messy handwriting as myself, the complete opposite of an artisan
I have the hands of a surgeon with a razor blade and those of a first grader with a pen. It is a very strange situation.
People often think of fine grits of sandpaper when prepping for polishing and they do have their place in the process but in order to truly flatten imperfections a more aggressive grit is needed so you don’t simply round them off but cut them flat.
I start with 500 grit. image (resized).jpg
This cuts it nice and flat.
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Now I can start working the 500 grit abrasions out
This is where the finer grits come in
I jump right to 1000
800 would also be a step before if desired but it can lead to oversanding as well so I am comfortable going to 1000image (resized).jpg
Next is 1200 but there is one small detail
I will turn the playfield 180 degrees so I am sanding it in the opposite direction.
While the sander itself is random my motions are not so this is a way to compensate for that and make sure I am hitting those previous grits from opposing directions.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgReady to polish.
This is a heavy wood table top covered with a shipping blanket.
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The playfield is screwed down to that table in the t nut recesses. This will hold it down. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Compound and starting with a wool pad.
I don’t like foam because I think it builds more concentrated heat than the loose pile of wool.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from heni1977:Did tons of pyramids in the military. Some of the best work out regimens. Also we did one day burn outs a week. Where you work lowest start weight in pyramids and do as many reps as possible with 2 minute intervals, 3 reps.
My wife really misses my military bod as she calls it!!
Sounds awesome. Thank you for your service.
A quick follow up on the items I threw up spontaneously yesterday and also the comments I made.
A few texted me to apologize for their offers.
No need to worry about that at all. I am not offended.
I have been doing this a long time I know the drill and I set myself up for that not having clear prices on the stuff.
I will let basically anything pictured go for a very fair price but when people offer $25 for a lockbar shipped to CA it just isn’t realistic
Four of them shipped to CA for $125 is
This is what I am getting at.
Hope that clears it up and again
No offense meant nor taken.
Beautiful day outside today.
Looks and feels more like spring than winter.
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Going to take a few spins around the block.
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I put the music of my youth on and I swear I feel just like I did when I was 14 just don’t have a desitination in mind like I did back then.
Back then it was a girls house or 7 eleven
These days it is a silly challenge on my
watch. The realities of being an adult 
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Quoted from timab2000:You can come to my house and lift some of this....there plenty for everyone. It will give you a workout, my dog almost blew away today[quoted image]
Looks nice in pictures.
Next thing I plan on lifting is this 2017 Barleywine and Maverick when he gets home from the groomers. image (resized).jpg
Until then it is back to the Dr.
Quoted from AUKraut:I may have asked this before (or someone else has, so my apologies): I have a hard enough time figuring out/remembering which screw/bolt/nut went where when I take out 1 or 2, how do you do it with hundreds of screws/bolts/nuts/washers/posts on a pin that you have no experience on??
I will go over that as it builds. It does come up often
Here is a basic overview.
T nuts first.
There are usually two sizes used.
The first is a 6/32 or # 6
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The second is a 8/32 or #8
Comparative picture
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Looking at the playfield since this one is used makes it a bit easier.
I can see the prong marks.
The ones with the smaller center hole are the # 6
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The larger center hole are #8 image (resized).jpg
Installed looks like this with that information.
image (resized).jpgRails are installed.
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Now we can start to place the ballguides and post.
How do I know where they go?
It will be a combination of using pictures taken at teardown and common sense.
You can’t rely solely on one or the other it really takes a combination.
Looking at my shop computer here are the pictures I took.
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I click on them and it will highlight sections. I can then match things up. image (resized).jpg
Common sense shows the holes and shapes line up when placed.
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This is how I will know where the ball guides and post go.
Standard parts are usually secured with these #6 1/2 hex head wood screws.
Let’s figure out the best jet bumper combo for Dr who
1
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2
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3
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4
0D6B26AA-7402-4A31-8E2D-015D203AF45B (resized).jpeg
5
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6
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Speak now or forever hold your peace
Quoted from pzy:5 or 6 for sure, that black looks real nice
From a maintenance and cleaning standpoint it is really tough to beat black wafers.
Quoted from pzy:Got any wafers that match the orange on the playfield? That might look nice, sort of matching concentric circles
Yes. I thought about that too and it looks nice in general but I think the yellow red combo won because it has the most pop to it.
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I think the winning combo is going to work well with the plastics.
image (resized).jpgI am going to work through the Dr Whi coils next.
Normally I would have already done this but they are so few and simple on this game I can handle it as it builds.
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I have nickel plated parts for most
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The lone exception is this specific flipper bracket.
I could cut one but the plating would flake. image (resized).jpg
I will just reuse and hand polish that one.
Beer shipment has arrived.
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These are the ones I am most interested in this time around.
The stout aged in Cognac barrels was limited to 1 per person so that is usually a good sign
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This one is a question mark for me D2F73BCF-EF95-4571-9D8F-9CE41523B569 (resized).jpeg
Buying beer this way is kind of like gambling. I don’t always know what I will like or what I will not.
Sometimes it is the description that sells me Donuts,stout,skillet !What is not to like?00C9874B-DDE9-4DD3-B82D-471C1755AE04 (resized).jpeg
Admittedly I have poured my share of duds out even when it was costly.
This was also limited to one ,expensive and horrible. After the first sip I knew I hated it so then I would get others to try it like my wife,oldest son,his girlfriend and other friends. It was fun because I knew if I hated it they were REALLY going to hate it.
Had a nice sealing cork to prolong the misery but after trying to get my monies worth in fun I had to just accept defeat and pour it out. image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpgDr Who underside is building up.
Flippers are rebuilt and placed.
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Normally I put factory correct wrappers on them even when new but I have grown increasingly frustrated with the PPS wrappers sold.
They just do not seem to be sticking long term without extra steps and tapes so it is no longer worth the expense and extra steps to support a product that isn’t working for me.
The switch harness is roughed in place and will be the first harness placed back on the playfield.
Quoted from WolfManCat:Donut Stout? Sounds like the perfect drink to have when you bust open the TSPP!
Definitely. Those pinboss flipper covers look pretty cool for that project too.
Quoted from flynnibus:What happened to the hep molex all the coils design here for dr who?
Good to hear the feedback on the coil wraps. I wanted to use them but just couldn’t justify the cost... your feedback makes that decision easier
Still doing that just as I a build instead of as I teardown.
On a game like this where I am reusing the original cabinet and playfield there is more urgency to get it apart so I can start reworking the cabinet and playfield since that can take a while.
This game is for a non pinhead/non collector jus a Dr Who fan more than anything so I know better than to waste too many resources on things that won’t be appreciated.
I don’t know what it is about certain channels that really set Maverick off but for some reason Faction and First wave in particular set him into a barking frenzy.
Not sure about the trigger for Faction but on First wave it is absolutely when they play something heavy on synths or Rock Lobster. Don’t blame him there.
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A818F8FA-B03C-4AD8-8BCF-A6253830364D.gifAlmost done wiring the Dr Who underside.
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Plugs and color correct wiring are being placed.
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Sometimes on the flippers I won’t have a perfect color match for the coils.
In those cases I get as close as I can.
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Then use paint to make it correct.
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image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from Robotoes:Hey Chris, I am about to print some replacement paper wrappers for some coils I put through the ultrasonic. What do you print these on? I haven't done this before.
I can’t help on this but others here can.
I don’t print my own.
Truth be told I have this label maker my wife bought me I can’t even figure out how to get to print the right sizes.
Not my strong suit.
image (resized).jpgOk I am starting to organize some of what is left over from the sale.
This lot of translite s is $350 shipped in the 48 states.
It includes an NOS Tommy,2 nice SS,nice Whirlwind,3,new choppers and an AFM(could be nos or repro can’t tell)
8 translite s shipped for $350 comes out to less than $45 a translite but some may be seen as more valuable than others so it is a nice average.
A16D6628-79EF-4D37-A355-59688F77897F (resized).jpegGot everything packed and labeled. image (resized).jpg
Almost done wiring the DW cabinet so I can put the playfield in there.
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Playfield is ready
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from Atari_Daze:Damn, read my mind, I was just about to ask!
This guy is good!
The chopper translites are not as popular so I am enhancing them with personal messages and an autograph 
image (resized).jpgQuoted from NYP:I'm curious how you get the playfields in & out without scratching the sides? Kids? Hoist? Brute strength? I've been using these game blade protectors to protect the sides, works pretty good but curious how you do it.....
[quoted image]
Low tech like my rotisserie.
Brute strength.
I had been holding this one back from the sale but I reluctantly submit this rare translite.
It is #1 of the HEP signature series. Only my finest penmanship was utilized and it does have some red eyes to further highlight its early developmental status.
In excellent condition and has some noteable differences from the production version.
I will let the pictures speak For themselves and will entertain reasonable offers of $1200 or less
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from pzy:Can you clearcoat it?
That would only taint its lineage.
Do not sleep on this translite.
This is a one of one art piece and there can only be one number one!
If anything bad happens to me it is sure to be an instant collectors item.
Although I am considering willing it to Maverick to bolster his college fund.
Quoted from Atari_Daze:Are all these cabs from the same vendor or are you trying different vendors?
These are from a new source.
I use three different vendors currently.
I used to have one good local source but he retired and since then it has been tough to find one consistent reliable source at the right price points and lead times.
All tend to have some advantages and disadvantages.
For sale EBD project/remains.
Wired tradition playfield resting inside LE lower(trashed)
Traditional used cabinet and head with lamp panel.
What you see is what you get
$1000 cash and carry need the space.
7972A139-CBC8-47F2-A3DB-95D2325F33C7 (resized).jpegA0583FE9-202C-454E-B48C-B7562D40DE34 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgBack to the Dr Who.
Getting closer.
Goes a bit slower when I haven’t done one before but they are built about the same so no big deal.
I chose not to replace the mini playfield on this one because with the exception of the front edge it looked pretty good and I have seen quite a few concerns with the repro mini.
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During teardown I discovered and expected the Time Expander cover to be broken. It was at each tab image (resized).jpg
What I did not expect was that I did not already have a replacement on hand.
Thankful Mark Freeplay40 makes them and will send me one.
Looks like something I can place later so I continue on.
After teardown I replaced all the emitter optos to be safe. Don’t want to revisit this part later 400C9E3C-8DCA-462A-B84E-D0C4BD12F154 (resized).jpeg
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The Mylar was removed ,glue then cleaned and polished,regrained the metal went over the wiring etc.
Rebuilt using all Cliffy products to protect and hide the front edge which is more than adequate for this build and owner. C2642C87-B11E-4046-9B57-877D96478BE8 (resized).jpeg
Now placed and tested.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgJust went to the store with my wife. It is a painful task. She is as OCD about keeping her basket organized as I am with my pinball stuff
It gets to the point where when she is ready to check out I leave.
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Pack the rucking bag and head home on foot.
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The only dangers are a narrow bridge and traffic until I get to the sidewalks in half a mile or so.
A9076042-DEA7-4009-B1E6-BD9DDCD086F8 (resized).jpegDF6535BC-173B-4327-9BC0-4D1C7E6DD9E0 (resized).jpegShe finally passes me right as l make it to the church
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That is like almost 50 minutes laterAC12CFE3-4275-4168-8E2F-C6BEBF4707AB (resized).jpeg
Puts me home just in time to unload this shit.
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I still contend it was win overall for me.
Quoted from yancy:I'm sure those Cinnamon Toast Crunch Churros aren't for you.
Had me curious.
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Taste like cardboard with cinnamon sugar on it. I hope they used new cardboard not recycled to make it at least.
Quoted from yancy:Thanks for saving me the trouble! I saw the commercial during one of my kid's TV shows and got curious.
Waiting on my healthy lunch to be fixed.
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Let’s try these. I have a feeling they will be better.
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YES!!!
I love grocery day.
image (resized).jpgThe Dr Who is starting to finish up so it will be a good time to start working the Whirlwinds further into the process.
As documented earlier the prototype WW has a Bad cats apron(575 game)
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WW is a 574 game as noted on the instruction card.
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I do not think this is a prototype thing because the Bad cats would have been after WW not before.
While I have no way of knowing for sure I would just guess that it was swapped at some point.
The sample WW has the correct apron. Without the lane change script.
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By doing these at the same time I will have a unique opportunity to make it all work out nicely for both games.
Both aprons are removed and wireforms taken off.
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The correct WW(574) apron and nicest shooter cover are set to the side.
These will be cleaned,polished and used for the Prototype.
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The Bad Cats apron will be used for the sample /special game and painted for that.
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I really only need to eliminate the lane change for the correct look so it will be upgraded by being painted and cleared and will give the prototype a more important upgrade to match its needs.
Also need to get the special WW coin door ready.
Not quite sure what I will do with it but I don’t think it will be straight black.
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During the teardown of it this fell out making it already more profitable and rewarding than anticipated.
Just need it to happen 1599 more times to balance out today’s trip to the grocery store. 
image (resized).jpgDecided to go a special route with the special WW apron and door.
Have no idea if it will be a boom or a bust.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgWorking on my door.
Thinking about doing the factory speckles but I the stencil colors with the blue base.
May look a little strange stand alone but might look about right when placed.
So far just white and yellow specs are done. The orange will set it off or ruin it but I don’t mind giving it a try.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from jwo825:I think it is going to take my brain a while to process the coindoor blending in with the cabinet. But I am almost certain that even if I do not like the aesthetics it, there will be no question that the technique is solid.
We will find out together.
I went a different direction there and went with the two blue shades
Cabinet main as the base and the lighter for the specks.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgFirst pass on the apron.
Will need some tightening up due to a little fuzziness on the edge and a peel back but the blueprint is there. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Jeff Miller and I worked on a stencil for it. A little tricky because of the scale of it but I can definitely take it from here.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Door will be tough to call until I set it in the cabinet and eyeball it
image (resized).jpgQuoted from kcZ:What is your process for "tightening up"?
Sanding,masking repainting with tighter borders.
The first pass of a stencil job here is primarily just to get the art down.
The next pass is used to dial in colors,borders and level.
Quoted from Bohdi:I do. You dumped it didn't you??
Yes.
Bally SS boards. Numerous drivers,lamp drivers and displays.
At least 5 clean solenoid driver and 3 or 4 lamp drivers.
$300 shipped(heavy)Sale pending
Quoted from Langless28:Any T2 playfields over there?
Not this time around but you never know about the next.
Quoted from Calipindave:Chris as a fellow beer aficionado all I can say is WTF?
Dave
I like it for boiling lobsters but not to drink.
I do think the Stipe Miocic commercials are cool so I picked that over Budweiser. Hope he gets a chance to get his belt back.
Got the new Time expander cover from Freeplay40 yesterday.
Built it up with a new decal and placed it.
Looks great. Thanks Mark.
image (resized).jpg
Jet bumpers are lit futuristic like.
image (resized).jpg
Colordmd code loaded.
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Dalek head and cover placed. Non moving on this example.
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Almost done with it.
image (resized).jpgQuoted from jawjaw:Side art looks awesome on Dr Who. Lightning flippers? Thought Dr Who came with normal flippers.
Lightning flippers(lowers only)on the DR Who are as correct as drinking Gulden Draak out of a Gulden Draak Glass
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image (resized).jpg
Technically they should be yellow though.
Just have the ramps and a couple details left.
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Quoted from robotron911:I like it. It's understated. I don't think it needs to scream, "Look - a coin door!" I think the coin door is the least attractive part of the cab.
I feel the same way about coin doors.
Black cabinets with black coin doors make schemes much easier.
When I get into different color cabinets like this it gets a bit more interesting.
One of the best things about painting the cabinets is that I then can paint the doors with some of the colors used for exact matches.
My ideal door for this would be plain stainless steel just like the trim but it is not possible.
Chrome would be too much and with the expense of chrome I am really starting to get away from it when possible.
Black is not really matching anything on the cabinet nor trim and a little too basic for this one.
That leaves either the blue as pictured which may look even better once built with either orange or clear plastic slots
Or
The gray color I used on the tornados which would be close to black like factory but would actually match up to something on the cabinet which is important.
There is the thought process.
You guys let me know what you think and why and we will see what makes the most sense.
Quoted from Green_Demon:How about something like this?
[quoted image]
I think that looks interesting.
Definitely like the idea of taking the blue door anddoing some well thought out accents to pull it into the rest of the color scheme.
Main thing I want to avoid is turning the door itself into an art piece just want to make it flow together with the cabinet almost the way the black doors do on black cabinets.
Quoted from amxfc3s:Just sitting here waiting to see what the HEP Superbowl food/drink spread is going to be
You are just in time.
For the wife myself and Curtis
Connecticut style lobster rolls and fries.
A5BB329B-A0B4-4748-A374-4B6BF36E0746 (resized).jpeg
For Marshall
Hot dog and popcorn chicken.
E6B2FD56-C3DE-45A7-B0C2-3C79FBA3248D (resized).jpegQuoted from kcZ:Connecticut style... That's there warm with butter version? That's the best, IMO. Hard to get it that way on our travels to Maine a few years ago.
Yes. That is it.
Very simple but great.
I don’t eat mayo
To drink
2017 Goose Island BC Barleywine. To start with.
Drinking it out of small glasses so I don’t fall asleep before halftime.
image (resized).jpgJim Nantz jinxes the Pats kicker with stats!!
Time for dessert.
Deep fried french toast sticks tossed in powdered sugar.
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5D3D5B6A-229F-44C4-9033-FBD51AB2A90F (resized).jpeg
Topped with rum raisin ice cream and salted caramel sauce. E536B4A5-A0CC-4B6D-872D-530804CF4548 (resized).jpeg
9E2FB61E-6EB4-4FEE-8F67-2C19CCD255F6 (resized).jpeg
Then almonds
17DC63DA-593D-485B-A926-6CDD73143433 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from jasonp:Adam Levine looks like a Mike Ness wannabe...
I definitely would have rather watched Another State of Mind again than the first half and the halftime show.
Hopefully the second is better. At least it is close.
Quoted from timab2000:I'm sure you have been asked this before, but about how long on average does it take you start to finish on a game?
WPC game reworking a repro playfield with new cabinet around 125 hours
Same reworking the original playfield and or cabinet probably 150
Bally solid state with stenciled cabinets,drops,all new sockets rebuilding connectors reworking repro playfield easily 200 or more.
Those are the most time consuming and most undervalued restorations there are.
Quoted from zerbam:hey HEP'S last post was 22 hrs ago.......is he on vacation today?
Been working on my special WW apron.
Not cleared yet and being matched more to the playfield than the cabinet since it will rest there.
Definitely better than black.
image (resized).jpgCabinet bolts painted tomatch the locations are placed.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
The pivot bolts were based and cleared in the white then the gaps were just roughed back in with the gray.
Might take another pass or two to clean it up but at a glance looks nice.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgTearing down the special Whirlwind playfield. image (resized).jpg
I am becoming a bit undecided as to whether I should restore the original playfield or go with a new one.
As is very common these look much better assembled.
As you get under the parts you find unexpected things like nails hammered in that should not be there.
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Wear under Cliffys (ok I did expect that)
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Raised inserts.
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Kickout wear.
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Blown out ramp screw holes.
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If needed or desired I can absolutely restore this playfield but the reality is that new when possible is usually a better long term solution.
I have asked the owner his preference and will go whatever route that is.
Unloaded the old WW cabinet.
Also available complete with hinges head attached.
Trying to make room around here.
I hate clutter!!!
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